Graphics card not detected in bios, but working in other 3 units (from my friends)

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Jan 8, 2019
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Hello,

So I have this problem for almost half a month now and I have not sorted it out yet

So, one day I bought a 2nd hand gpu, and tested it on his unit before leaving and it worked, so I got home and figured out i lacked a 1 X6 pcie connector when it needed 2 and an error will pop out that I need to plug in cables, So I tried in a molex 6 pin connector and maybe I plugged it wrong because i plugged in 2 molexes and something popped on my computer and it did not work for a while,, so next day I bought a new psu a 600W one I tested my gpu again, now it wont show any error, so this led to me thinking gpu was dead so what I did was bring my new psu and gpu to my friend and tested it on his unit and it works on his unit. The next day, I tried to refund it but he said he is sure that it is working and I tried it on his unit again and it is working. So I went to a computer store the next day, i brought my gpu and psu again to test it on other motherboards, and it worked and not worked so it worked with a 3rd gen processor " I3-3240" but when he tried it on a 2nd gen with 2 processor and same model the bios is not detecting GPU...

I have tried almost everything that I can't see from the internet, what my last resort would be to be buying a new cpu and motherboard, please help me I dont want to spend mah dollars to something that I am not sure of

I also want to mention that my gt730 is working fine with my mobo while the gtx 970 is not

Gtx 970 (2nd Hand that I bought)
i5-2500 (current processor)
600W MASTER COOLER


 
There is no such thing as Molex 6 pin connectors. There are PEG/PCI 6 pin, 6+2 pin and 8 pin connectors. Molex connectors are four pin and should not be used with graphics cards, not even with adapters.

I think it's likely you are either doing something wrong, trying to plug in the wrong connectors or you have a power supply that is inadequate or on it's last legs which would explain why it works fine with the much less power hungry GT 730 that requires no connector but not with your 970.

Either that, or you are not getting this much larger card seated correctly.
 
Jan 8, 2019
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mmmmmmmmmmm -_- what I actually meant is Dual Molex to 6 PIN, it could never be my power supply as it is brand new and is working with other friends's unit . if u were reading

so what i observed is that the cpu unit from the store that my gpu and psu worked with requires lesser power than my I5 2500, and I will still ask 2 other people what their processors are, so I can check for patterns why my gpu worked for them,

yes i'll try other psu but im sure my psu is in healthy condition
 
Dual molex to 6 or 8 pin adapter is a fire waiting to happen. Do not use adapters to power graphics cards. Only the uninformed or the misinformed would be inclined to do that. It's a bad idea and it's dangerous. More importantly though, any power supply that does not natively have a six pin, six plus two pin or eight pin PCI supplemental power connector, is not capable enough or of high enough quality to be used with any graphics card that requires one.

If the power supply was capable enough, and intended for, use with graphics cards that require those connectors, it would have it already. Using an adapter in this situation is like trying to tow a boat with a compact car or using gasoline to start a barbecue. Sure, it will work, to some degree, but it's still a really bad idea and there are a good many reasons for that.

Whether or not your power supply is "healthy" is not the question. The fact that it doesn't natively have the necessary connections says that it should not be used in this configuration. Period.

And honestly, most Cooler master power supplies are pure junk. That too is simply a fact.

These are the units that you want to look at if you decide to replace your current model. Even if the power supply isn't your primary problem, it would be a VERY good idea to replace it with one that can natively support your graphics card and is of at least reasonably decent quality.

Let's start with the biggest misconception out there, which is that if a unit has high watts it will be ok or is good. No. Just, no.

There are plenty of 750-1000w units out there that I wouldn't trust to power a light bulb and might in fact be more dangerous due to their supposedly high capacity due to poor or non-existent protections inside the unit.

If the platform isn't good to begin with, how many watts or amps it says it can support is irrelevant.

Higher 80plus certification doesn't mean anything, UNLESS it's on an already known to be high quality PSU platform. For example, a Seasonic Prime platinum unit is going to be a better product than a Seasonic Prime Gold unit, because we already know the Prime platform is very good, and platinum efficiency along with it shows there are some improvements internally to account for the higher efficiency.

In a case like that, it might be worth it. It's likely the unit will create less heat, it will probably have better performance in regard to ripple, noise and voltage regulation. It might shave a few pennies, or dollars, off the electric bill over the course of a year.

Other than that, it is not going to perform any better than the same platform with Gold efficiency. On the other hand, just because a unit has Titanium 80plus ratings doesn't mean the unit is any good at all. For example, there are Raidmax units with Titanium efficiency and I wouldn't trust one of those to power a light bulb. There are a lot of units like this out there.

If the platform isn't good to begin with, whether or not it has an 80plus certification or not is irrelevant.

Whatever you do, don't EVER buy a power supply based on whether it has RGB or lighting, or looks like it might be a quality unit. Some of the biggest hunks of junk out there look just as good as a Seasonic Prime Ultra Titanium, but I assure you, they are not. So far as I've seen there are really no excellent units out there that have RGB built in. Maybe one or two models, but rest assured you'll be be paying for the lighting, not for the quality of the power supply.

I don't know what country you reside in, and I know that sometimes it's hard to come by good units in some regions, but when possible, when it comes time to get that PSU, I'd stick to the following if you can.

Seasonic. Seasonic isn't just a brand, they are a PSU manufacturer, unlike many of the PSU brands you see they make their own power supply platforms AND a great many of the very good PSU models out there from other brands like Antec, Corsair and older XFX are made by Seasonic.

Just about anything made by Seasonic is good quality for the most part. There are really no bad Seasonic units and only a very few that are even somewhat mediocre. They do make a few less-good quality OEM style units, but mostly those are not going to be units you come across at most vendors, and they are still not bad. Also, the S12II and M12II 520 and 620w units are older, group regulated models. At one time they were among the best units you could buy. Now, they are outdated and not as good as almost any other Seasonic models. They are however still better than a LOT of newer designs by other manufacturers.

The Seasonic 520w and 620w S12II/M12II units CAN be used on newer Intel platforms, if you turn off C6/C7 in the bios, but I'd really recommend a newer platform whenever possible. Prices are usually pretty good on those though, so sometimes it's worth accepting the lack of DC-DC on the internal platform. Higher capacity versions of the High current gamer are not based on that platform, so they are fine. Those being the 750w and higher versions.

Most common currently, in order of preference, would be the Seasonic Focus series, then Focus plus, then Prime, then Prime ultra. It's worth mentioning that there are generally Gold, Platinum and Titanium versions within each, or most, of those series, but that does not necessarily mean that a Focus plus Platinum is necessarily better than a Prime Gold. It only means that it scored better in the 80plus efficiency testing, not that the platform is better.

Again, don't let yourself get tangled up in the idea that a higher 80plus rating specifically means that it is a better unit than another one with a lower rating, unless you know that it is a good platform from the start. All these Focus and Prime units are pretty good so you can somewhat focus on the 80plus rating when deciding which of them to choose.

Super Flower Super Flower is another PSU manufacturer. They also make most of the good units sold by EVGA like the G2, G3, P2 and T2 models.

Super Flower doesn't have a very broad availability for the units with their own brand name on them, and are not available in a lot of countries but for those where there is availability you want to look at the Leadex and Leadex II models. The Golden green platform is fairly decent too but is getting rather long in the tooth as a platform AND I've seen some reviews indicating a few shortcomings on units based on this platform.

Even so, it's a great deal better than a lot of other platforms out there so you could certainly do worse than a Golden green model. Units based on the Leadex and Leadex II platforms are much better though.

Corsair. The CX and CXm units are ok as a budget option, but I do not recommend pairing them with gaming cards. The newer 2017 models of CX and CXm are better than the older ones, but still not what we'd call terrific, so if it specifically says 2017 model, or it has a capacity other than an even 100, like 550w, 650w, 750w, etc., then it's likely at least better than those older ones. Aside from that, any of the TX, RMx, RMi, HX, HXi, AX or AXi units are good. Those are listed from best to worst, with the best being the AX and AXi units.

Antec. The True power classic units are made by Seasonic, and are very good, but are not modular. The High current gamer 520w and 620w, or any other PSU you see on the market that is 520w or 620w, are also made by Seasonic, based on the S12II and M12II platform for modern versions, and are pretty good units but again they are an older platform that is group regulated so if you go with a Haswell or newer Intel configuration you will want to avoid those because they do not support the C6/C7 Intel low power states.

The Antec High current gamer 750w and 850w units are very good and are not the older design, which came in 520w and 620w capacities and were good for back then but again, are an aging Seasonic platform that is not the best choice most of the time these days. Occasionally, these older units MIGHT be the best unit available and you could do worse than one of them, but a newer DC-DC platform is desirable when possible if it doesn't mean sacrificing quality elsewhere in the platform. There are however older and newer HCG models, so exact model number will likely be a factor if choosing one of these however both the older models and the newer models are good.

Antec Edge units are ok too, but reviews indicate that they have noisy fan profiles. I'd only choose this model if it is on sale or the aesthetics match up with your color scheme or design. Still a good power supply but maybe a little aggressive on the fan profile. This may have been cured on newer Edge models so reading professional tear down reviews is still the best idea.

Antec Earthwatts Gold units are very good also.

BeQuiet. BeQuiet does have a few decent models, BUT, you must be VERY selective about which of their models you put your trust in. From model to model their are huge differences in both quality and performance, even with the same series. If you cannot find a review for a BeQuiet unit on HardOCP, JonnyGuru or Tom's hardware that SPECIFICALLY says it is a very good unit, and does not have any significant issues in the "cons" category, I would avoid it. In fact, I'd probably avoid it anyhow unless there is a very great sale on one that has good reviews, because their units are generally more expensive than MUCH better units from Antec, Seasonic, EVGA and Corsair.

Super Flower. They are like Seasonic and they make power supplies for a variety of other companies, like EVGA. Super Flower units are usually pretty good. I'd stick to the Leadex, Leadex II and Golden Green models.

EVGA. They have BOTH good and not very good models.

Not very good are the W1, N1, B1, B3 (All models except the 650w model), BQ, BR, BT and G1 NEX models.

Good models are the B2, B3 650w, G2, G2L, G3, GQ, P2 and T2 models.

FSP. They used to be very mediocre, and are a PSU manufacturer like Seasonic and Super Flower, although not as well trusted based on historical performance. Currently the FSP Hydro G and Hydro X units are pretty good.

I would avoid Thermaltake and Cooler Master. They do have a few good units, but most of the models they sell are either poor or mediocre, and the ones they have that ARE good are usually way overpriced.

This is just ONE example of why I say that. Very new and modern CM unit. One of the worst scores ever seen on JG for a well known brand name product. Doesn't look to be much better than a Raidmax unit. Sad.


And most of the models I have linked to the reviews of at the following link are at least good, with most of them being fantastic.


Certainly there ARE some good units out there that you won't see above among those I've listed, but they are few and far between, much as a hidden nugget of gold you find in a crevice among otherwise ordinary rocks and don't EVER assume a unit is good just because of the brand.

If you cannot find an IN DEPTH, REPUTABLE review on Tom's hardware, JonnyGuru, HardOCP, Hardware secrets (Old reviews by Gabe Torres), Kitguru (Only Aris reviews), TechPowerUP, SilentPC crew or a similar site that does much more than simply a review of the unboxing and basic tests that don't include reliable results for ripple, noise, voltage regulation and a complete teardown of the unit including identification of the internal platform, then the unit is a big fat question mark.

I recommend not trusting such units as companies generally always send out review samples of any unit they feel is going to get a good review, and don't send them out if they know they are going to get hammered by the reviewer. No review usually equals poor quality. Usually.

Other models that should never be trusted OR USED AT ALL, under any circumstances, include A-Top, Apevia, Apex (Supercase/Allied), Artic, Ace, Aerocool (There might be one model worth using, but I'd still avoid them.), Aspire (Turbocase), Atadc, Atrix, Broadway com corp, Chieftech, Circle, CIT, Coolmax, Deer, Diablotek, Dynapower, Dynex, Eagletech, Enlight, Evo labs, EZ cool, Feedtek, Foxconn, G7, HEC/Compucase Orion, HEDY, iBall, iStar computer co., Jeantec, JPac, Just PC, Kolink, LC Power, Linkworld electronics, Logisys, Macron, MSI, NmediaPC, Norwood Micro (CompUSA), Okia, Powercool, Powmax, Pulsepower, Q-tec, Raidmax, RaveRocketfish, Segotep, SFC, Sharkoon, Shuttle, Skyhawk, Spire, Startech, Storm, Sumvision, Tesla, Trust, Ultra, Wintech, Winpower, Xilence (Until I see a reputable review of a model showing different), xTreme (Cyberpower), Youngbear and Zebronics.
 

coops1

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I think the OP is saying that his new PSU does not need the molex to 6pin adapter - that was used with his old PSU.

The PSU and GPU worked when tested with a 3rd gen CPU in a computer store, but not a second gen one... I must admit I've never heard of this before but can't think the problem lies with the PSU.

It would be useful to know the exact PSU and motherboard models though.
 
If his GT 730 works fine on the same motherboard, then it can only be the graphics card or power supply unless it's due to the GT 730 being a legacy card and the GTX 970 being a much newer, mostly UEFI card. They are supposed to work with both legacy and UEFI boards though. It's possible that you may need to update the bios in order to support the GTX 970. As coops has indicated, knowing the model numbers of the hardware involved would be especially helpful.
 
We know lots of fixes for various problems. But if you are not willing to do the work, such as providing the models numbers that were asked for etc., it's going to be pretty hard to offer any that might be useful. Nobody is going to have a "magic bullet" that fixes your problem. It's going to take work, eliminating problems and trying various solutions and testing, to solve the issue.

If you are unwilling to do that, I don't know how we can help you.
 
Jan 8, 2019
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HELLO GUYS PROBLEM SOLVED,

SO MY PSU HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH IT , THE PROBLEM IS WITH COMPATIBILITY

I DO NOT RECALL EXACTLY WHAT HAPPENED BUT WHAT I DID WAS UPGRADE MY I5-2500 TO I5-3570K THEN BOOM IT WORKED
 
Changing CPUs did not solve your problem, it was something else. Changing to a newer CPU would not correct any existing issue that was not present with one graphics card but was with another. Something else you did cured the problem, not changing the CPU.
 
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