GTX 1050ti I5 8400
- Thread starter Haiz02
- Start date
Solution
Dark Lord of Tech
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Dark Lord of Tech
Retired Moderator
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photonboy
Titan
- Jun 20, 2006
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Yep.
The GTX1050Ti is still a pretty nice card. I had a GTX680 up until Q4 of 2016 and it ran every game quite nicely. Even games like Crysis 3 provided I tweaked the settings for the game carefully.
*The "trick" is to know how to tweak game settings and use VSYNC etc. You need to start with whether to use:
a) VSYNC ON
b) VSYNC OFF
c) Adaptive VSYNC
VSYNC eliminates screen tearing, but adds some latency (lag), and if you drop below 60FPS (60Hz monitor) you get added STUTTERING too. VSYNC is ideal for games that you know you can maintain 60FPS.
VSYNC OFF is useful too, especially for fast SHOOTERS if the screen tear is minimal. How much tear you see depends on the game, settings, and especially the FRAME RATE... for example on an OLDER Call of Duty game I was getting about 200FPS with VSYNC OFF and could not see any obvious screen tearing, but the lag/sluggishness was minimal compared to VSYNC ON.
*Adaptive VSYNC:
This is a great solution too. I use it even with my GTX1080 for a few games like Assassin's Creed Unity. It simply runs VSYNC ON, but if you can't maintain 60FPS (60Hz monitor) it turns VSYNC OFF to avoid the added STUTTERING due to the monitor/GPU synch mismatch.
In AC Brotherhood on my GTX680 I could drop a few settings and mostly maintain 60FPS, but every time I dropped below 60FPS it causes MAJOR STUTTER. I couldn't drop the settings low enough without severe visual compromise, and using VSYNC OFF had far too much screen tear. Aaargh right?
Well, I forced on Adaptive VSYNC and that "fixed" the issue. Every time the FPS dropped I got a little screen tear instead of stutter. Problem solved.
Here's how:
a) start game then exit (so it's top of program list)
b) NVidia Control Panel-> manage 3d settings-> program settings-> add game-> (adaptive VSYNC)-> SAVE-> (test to confirm)
Other:
Adaptive VSYNC also fixes the issue with Max Payne 3. That game drops to 30FPS with VSYNC ON if you can't output 60FPS. With some careful tweaking on my GTX680, and using Adaptive VSYNC I stayed at 60FPS over 90% of the time and occasionally dropped into the 50FPS range with a little screen tear but not sudden LAG at 30FPS.
The GTX1050Ti is still a pretty nice card. I had a GTX680 up until Q4 of 2016 and it ran every game quite nicely. Even games like Crysis 3 provided I tweaked the settings for the game carefully.
*The "trick" is to know how to tweak game settings and use VSYNC etc. You need to start with whether to use:
a) VSYNC ON
b) VSYNC OFF
c) Adaptive VSYNC
VSYNC eliminates screen tearing, but adds some latency (lag), and if you drop below 60FPS (60Hz monitor) you get added STUTTERING too. VSYNC is ideal for games that you know you can maintain 60FPS.
VSYNC OFF is useful too, especially for fast SHOOTERS if the screen tear is minimal. How much tear you see depends on the game, settings, and especially the FRAME RATE... for example on an OLDER Call of Duty game I was getting about 200FPS with VSYNC OFF and could not see any obvious screen tearing, but the lag/sluggishness was minimal compared to VSYNC ON.
*Adaptive VSYNC:
This is a great solution too. I use it even with my GTX1080 for a few games like Assassin's Creed Unity. It simply runs VSYNC ON, but if you can't maintain 60FPS (60Hz monitor) it turns VSYNC OFF to avoid the added STUTTERING due to the monitor/GPU synch mismatch.
In AC Brotherhood on my GTX680 I could drop a few settings and mostly maintain 60FPS, but every time I dropped below 60FPS it causes MAJOR STUTTER. I couldn't drop the settings low enough without severe visual compromise, and using VSYNC OFF had far too much screen tear. Aaargh right?
Well, I forced on Adaptive VSYNC and that "fixed" the issue. Every time the FPS dropped I got a little screen tear instead of stutter. Problem solved.
Here's how:
a) start game then exit (so it's top of program list)
b) NVidia Control Panel-> manage 3d settings-> program settings-> add game-> (adaptive VSYNC)-> SAVE-> (test to confirm)
Other:
Adaptive VSYNC also fixes the issue with Max Payne 3. That game drops to 30FPS with VSYNC ON if you can't output 60FPS. With some careful tweaking on my GTX680, and using Adaptive VSYNC I stayed at 60FPS over 90% of the time and occasionally dropped into the 50FPS range with a little screen tear but not sudden LAG at 30FPS.
photonboy
Titan
- Jun 20, 2006
- 21,566
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- 85,015
i3-8100, i5-8400 etc.
I think the i5-8400 is a good idea, but I'll give my reasons. It's a SIX CORE (no hyperthreading) CPU and the i3-8100 is a FOUR CORE (no hyperthreading) CPU.
i generally recommend at least a 4C/8T CPU (means four cores PLUS hyperthreading). So the i3-8100 is 4C/8T, and the i5-8400 is 6C/6T.
The i5-8400 is more FUTURE PROOF for games that get more demanding and helps if you are multi-tasking (i.e. gaming and doing something else at the same time).
When I got my i7-3770K (4C/8T) CPU people told me it was overkill. It arguably was, but the i5-3570 that almost everybody recommended wouldn't pair nearly as well with my GTX1080 now.
So I spent a little more at the time but didn't feel the need to upgrade later (which would have needed MOTHERBOARD, CPU, DDR4 memory, and reinstall Windows).
Just my two cents, but pair the i5-8400 with a good motherboard and you might get TEN YEARS out of it. I've got FIVE YEARS out of my i7-3770K setup now, and aside from adding SSD and upgrading the Graphics Card I plan to keep it five more years if possible.
My next big upgrade will be a GSYNC monitor when prices drop (currently have a 2560x1440, 60Hz, IPS for specs).
I think the i5-8400 is a good idea, but I'll give my reasons. It's a SIX CORE (no hyperthreading) CPU and the i3-8100 is a FOUR CORE (no hyperthreading) CPU.
i generally recommend at least a 4C/8T CPU (means four cores PLUS hyperthreading). So the i3-8100 is 4C/8T, and the i5-8400 is 6C/6T.
The i5-8400 is more FUTURE PROOF for games that get more demanding and helps if you are multi-tasking (i.e. gaming and doing something else at the same time).
When I got my i7-3770K (4C/8T) CPU people told me it was overkill. It arguably was, but the i5-3570 that almost everybody recommended wouldn't pair nearly as well with my GTX1080 now.
So I spent a little more at the time but didn't feel the need to upgrade later (which would have needed MOTHERBOARD, CPU, DDR4 memory, and reinstall Windows).
Just my two cents, but pair the i5-8400 with a good motherboard and you might get TEN YEARS out of it. I've got FIVE YEARS out of my i7-3770K setup now, and aside from adding SSD and upgrading the Graphics Card I plan to keep it five more years if possible.
My next big upgrade will be a GSYNC monitor when prices drop (currently have a 2560x1440, 60Hz, IPS for specs).
photonboy
Titan
- Jun 20, 2006
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Hyperthreading (if you care).
CPU's used to have a single core. Then we got DUAL CORE CPU's which you can think of as two CPU's next to each other with a switching mechanism to toggle between two separate threads of code (so a program would need to be WRITTEN in a way that it's code was split up into separate threads to benefit).
HYPERTHREADING uses the same physical core. There's a "switch" on each core which toggles between two threads of code. So when the CPU is sitting idle normally waiting for more data from system memory that's wasted CPU cycles. So instead we toggle over to the other thread of code.
You can roughly think of hyperthreading as adding an extra core which performs about 30% that of each real core. So four cores at 100%, plus four more "cores" at 30%.
Hyperthreading still sometimes causes issues where the game might run a little better with hyperthreading off. It's pretty minor now but it still happens. The i5-8400 does not have hyperthreading, just six physical cores.
Anyway, long story short the i5-8400 should work quite well for gaming for years to come.
(Not sure if you can use MCE or similar to clock the i5-8400 at its Max Turbo frequency under full load or not... will post a link)
CPU's used to have a single core. Then we got DUAL CORE CPU's which you can think of as two CPU's next to each other with a switching mechanism to toggle between two separate threads of code (so a program would need to be WRITTEN in a way that it's code was split up into separate threads to benefit).
HYPERTHREADING uses the same physical core. There's a "switch" on each core which toggles between two threads of code. So when the CPU is sitting idle normally waiting for more data from system memory that's wasted CPU cycles. So instead we toggle over to the other thread of code.
You can roughly think of hyperthreading as adding an extra core which performs about 30% that of each real core. So four cores at 100%, plus four more "cores" at 30%.
Hyperthreading still sometimes causes issues where the game might run a little better with hyperthreading off. It's pretty minor now but it still happens. The i5-8400 does not have hyperthreading, just six physical cores.
Anyway, long story short the i5-8400 should work quite well for gaming for years to come.
(Not sure if you can use MCE or similar to clock the i5-8400 at its Max Turbo frequency under full load or not... will post a link)
photonboy
Titan
- Jun 20, 2006
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qWj0ozJCZuo
Long story short is there seems to be no reason to use MCE (Multicore Enhancement). The CPU should stay at 3.8GHz on all six cores loaded which is fine.
I'd just concentrate on getting a 3000MHz or 3200MHz DDR4 memory kit (2x8GB) such as Corsair LPX or whatever, then use "XMP" in the BIOS.
Install the motherboard FAN SOFTWARE, tweak the fan profile so you stay below 80degC under heavy load and you should be good. So...
1) First, update the BIOS
2) set "XMP"
3) run MEMTEST86 for a full pass www.memtest86.com
4) attach SSD/HDD's
5) Install Windows 10 64-bit, drivers etc.
FYI, if you aren't aware, you should have your Windows E-mail + Password that you plan to use (i.e. MSN account) ready so you can type it in during Install.
Long story short is there seems to be no reason to use MCE (Multicore Enhancement). The CPU should stay at 3.8GHz on all six cores loaded which is fine.
I'd just concentrate on getting a 3000MHz or 3200MHz DDR4 memory kit (2x8GB) such as Corsair LPX or whatever, then use "XMP" in the BIOS.
Install the motherboard FAN SOFTWARE, tweak the fan profile so you stay below 80degC under heavy load and you should be good. So...
1) First, update the BIOS
2) set "XMP"
3) run MEMTEST86 for a full pass www.memtest86.com
4) attach SSD/HDD's
5) Install Windows 10 64-bit, drivers etc.
FYI, if you aren't aware, you should have your Windows E-mail + Password that you plan to use (i.e. MSN account) ready so you can type it in during Install.
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