GTX 1050Ti SC on 280w

[Zach_82]

Will an EVGA GTX 1050Ti SC (single fan) work in a Lenovo K410 with a 280w power supply with 100-127V / 200-240V. Thanks.

 

[hang-the-9]

It has a good chance of working, it should only draw about 75 watts or less, but OEM motherboards don't always play nice with all add-on video cards.
You have a few scenarios here, it will work fine, it won't work, it will work for a bit then stop working, it will work for a bit then burn out the PSU and maybe the video card. Last two are not very likely but can still happen.

Because that card draws all it's power from the PCIe slot, a more powerful power supply may not help you much in your case.

 

[King_V]

I saw a video where a 1050Ti was put into a Dell Inspiron 3650. The official rating on the power supply in that machine is 240W. Given your extra 40 watts of headroom, I thus assume if the power supply is a quality supply, and the motherboard was manufactured to specs, that it should work well - asssuming you're not running an overclocked i7 or somesuch.

 

[dontlistentome]

If that computer has an i5 3xxx in it that's 77W for the CPU, add 75W for the 1050 Ti. Round it off to 150W needed on the 12V rail. So if that 280W PSU has 13 or 14A on the 12V I'd say no, that's cutting it too close. Up around 18A on the 12V and I think you'd be alright. Don't count on that PSU putting out as much as it says it does, that's why you need some headroom.

 

[Zach_82]

If that computer has an i5 3xxx in it that's 77W for the CPU, add 75W for the 1050 Ti. Round it off to 150W needed on the 12V rail. So if that 280W PSU has 13 or 14A on the 12V I'd say no, that's cutting it too close. Up around 18A on the 12V and I think you'd be alright. Don't count on that PSU putting out as much as it says it does, that's why you need some headroom.

I think what I'm gonna do is just upgrade the PSU. They're not that expensive and then I'll be sure. Thanks for your help.

 

[hang-the-9]

If that computer has an i5 3xxx in it that's 77W for the CPU, add 75W for the 1050 Ti. Round it off to 150W needed on the 12V rail. So if that 280W PSU has 13 or 14A on the 12V I'd say no, that's cutting it too close. Up around 18A on the 12V and I think you'd be alright. Don't count on that PSU putting out as much as it says it does, that's why you need some headroom.

I think what I'm gonna do is just upgrade the PSU. They're not that expensive and then I'll be sure. Thanks for your help.

Don't get a cheap power supply, a decent quality one will start about $40 for a good model for 450-550 watts for a gaming system, add another $10-15 for the modular version.

This is a good buy right now if you don't mind non-modular https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E16817151094

This if modular https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151093

 

[Zach_82]

If that computer has an i5 3xxx in it that's 77W for the CPU, add 75W for the 1050 Ti. Round it off to 150W needed on the 12V rail. So if that 280W PSU has 13 or 14A on the 12V I'd say no, that's cutting it too close. Up around 18A on the 12V and I think you'd be alright. Don't count on that PSU putting out as much as it says it does, that's why you need some headroom.

I think what I'm gonna do is just upgrade the PSU. They're not that expensive and then I'll be sure. Thanks for your help.

Don't get a cheap power supply, a decent quality one will start about $40 for a good model for 450-550 watts for a gaming system, add another $10-15 for the modular version.

This is a good buy right now if you don't mind non-modular https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E16817151094

This if modular https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151093

Got another question: does the amps matter on the rails? My current +12v is 18A but I was looking at one with a single 24 pin that was 40A, that won't overload the mobo right it just draws what it needs?

 

[King_V]

12v @ 18A gives you 216 watts available at the 12v rail. If you've got a lower end CPU, you should have a good amount of headroom.

A more powerful Power Supply can't hurt things, it just gives you more headroom.

Out of curiosity, what CPU are you using? How many RAM sticks, optical drives, hard drives, fans, etc. All this will allow for totaling up the maximum theoretical power draw.

I'm given to understand that Dell is using pretty decent power supplies these days, but I have no idea how good/mediocre the quality is with Lenovo, HP, etc.


EDIT: I tend to be stubborn, and like to know exactly how much headroom I have. On the other hand, I also had to deal with proprietary/odd-shaped power supplies in compact cases that I couldn't upgrade, so some of that has been a motivating factor for me in the past.

 

[dontlistentome]

Got another question: does the amps matter on the rails? My current +12v is 18A but I was looking at one with a single 24 pin that was 40A, that won't overload the mobo right it just draws what it needs?

The rated amps matter in the sense that it tells you the kind of power you can expect to be available on that output. So a 12V 40A rating means you could draw that level of wattage from the 12v. It doesn't mean you will, but that you could. Today's components, mainly the CPU and GPU since they're the most power hungry, draw heavily from the 12V rail.

Lower quality power supplies will not provide the rated power on a constant use basis. Maybe in the lab for one temporary peak they supplied that power and the manufacturer then uses that to market them at that level. The quality power supplies are the ones who are honest about what they can output. That's why it can be better to have a quality 400W than a cheap 600W, all other things being equal.

 

[Zach_82]

12v @ 18A gives you 216 watts available at the 12v rail. If you've got a lower end CPU, you should have a good amount of headroom.

A more powerful Power Supply can't hurt things, it just gives you more headroom.

Out of curiosity, what CPU are you using? How many RAM sticks, optical drives, hard drives, fans, etc. All this will allow for totaling up the maximum theoretical power draw.

I'm given to understand that Dell is using pretty decent power supplies these days, but I have no idea how good/mediocre the quality is with Lenovo, HP, etc.


EDIT: I tend to be stubborn, and like to know exactly how much headroom I have. On the other hand, I also had to deal with proprietary/odd-shaped power supplies in compact cases that I couldn't upgrade, so some of that has been a motivating factor for me in the past.

I have an i7-3770, 2-4GB stick of RAM, one optical drive, one 2TB 7200 RPM HD, one dual usb pci hub, and the only fans are on the PSU which is an 80mm that shoots out the back with the PSU at the top (making PSU choices slim and expensive) and of course the heatsink fan.

 

[junkeymonkey]

what you need to look at is if that lenvo bios will support any cards newer that a 600 series NVidia that's a issue with a lot of prebuilts

https://forums.lenovo.com/t5/Lenovo-E-H-K-M-Q-Y-and-ErazerX/Multiple-systems-Graphic-card-AMD-RX-480-not-booting-H420-K410/m-p/3462720/highlight/true#M13049

https://forums.lenovo.com/t5/Lenovo-E-H-K-M-Q-Y-and-ErazerX/EVGA-Geforce-GTX-960-Graphics-Card-won-t-boot-on-my-Lenovo/m-p/2071164/highlight/true#M9257

https://forums.lenovo.com/t5/forums/searchpage/tab/message?filter=location&q=Lenovo+K410&location=forum-board%3Ald02_en&sort_by=-topicPostDate

with that card I feel your looking at a disappointment and a black screen at best

good luck


some models of store bought computers [dell.hp,acer,ect..] may come with a ''locked or fixed'' / legacy or uefi bios and may not allow you to change certain hardware as a video card.. this is done to protect them from undue warranty claims and refunds .this is not done to hurt you but to protect them. you really need to see if that upgrade has been proven to work in your model first before you invest money in it .. there are a lot of these threads here at toms to look at some models will allow upgrades and some dont.. and a lot of guys here say ya ya ya when is really no no no...it would be sad you spent $200 on a card that won't post after you installed it as most find out. then get told its your psu and you spend more and end up right back where you are now, but its up to you good luck..


you got to know the boards in these computers are not like the ones we use to do custom builds witch are open to upgrading with in the boards compatibly . the bios is custom made for there design and just for the parts they authorize to be used on there computers there only guaranteed to work as is out of the box as you bought it ,..


also these boards do not have to meet atx standards and there pci-e slot power may not do the required 75w needed for most higher end cards and can be limited to say 45 or 60w that is all thats needed with the low end factory oem cards that it may of shipped with

in the end any upgrade you do is all your own risk . the prebuilt manufactures only guarantees there computers work as sold to you as is out of the box from there factory with what they put on it , not a drop more

there in business to sell you whole ready to go computers , and dont worry about you upgrading them or giving you support to do so . thats not how they make there money they prefer you run to wal-mart and buy there ''better'' latest models

 

[Zach_82]

what you need to look at is if that lenvo bios will support any cards newer that a 600 series NVidia that's a issue with a lot of prebuilts

https://forums.lenovo.com/t5/Lenovo-E-H-K-M-Q-Y-and-ErazerX/Multiple-systems-Graphic-card-AMD-RX-480-not-booting-H420-K410/m-p/3462720/highlight/true#M13049

https://forums.lenovo.com/t5/Lenovo-E-H-K-M-Q-Y-and-ErazerX/EVGA-Geforce-GTX-960-Graphics-Card-won-t-boot-on-my-Lenovo/m-p/2071164/highlight/true#M9257

https://forums.lenovo.com/t5/forums/searchpage/tab/message?filter=location&q=Lenovo+K410&location=forum-board%3Ald02_en&sort_by=-topicPostDate

with that card I feel your looking at a disappointment and a black screen at best

good luck


some models of store bought computers [dell.hp,acer,ect..] may come with a ''locked or fixed'' / legacy or uefi bios and may not allow you to change certain hardware as a video card.. this is done to protect them from undue warranty claims and refunds .this is not done to hurt you but to protect them. you really need to see if that upgrade has been proven to work in your model first before you invest money in it .. there are a lot of these threads here at toms to look at some models will allow upgrades and some dont.. and a lot of guys here say ya ya ya when is really no no no...it would be sad you spent $200 on a card that won't post after you installed it as most find out. then get told its your psu and you spend more and end up right back where you are now, but its up to you good luck..


you got to know the boards in these computers are not like the ones we use to do custom builds witch are open to upgrading with in the boards compatibly . the bios is custom made for there design and just for the parts they authorize to be used on there computers there only guaranteed to work as is out of the box as you bought it ,..


also these boards do not have to meet atx standards and there pci-e slot power may not do the required 75w needed for most higher end cards and can be limited to say 45 or 60w that is all thats needed with the low end factory oem cards that it may of shipped with

in the end any upgrade you do is all your own risk . the prebuilt manufactures only guarantees there computers work as sold to you as is out of the box from there factory with what they put on it , not a drop more

there in business to sell you whole ready to go computers , and dont worry about you upgrading them or giving you support to do so . thats not how they make there money they prefer you run to wal-mart and buy there ''better'' latest models

Well, call me a wus but what I did was just order a GT640 from lenovo to replace my GT620. I couldn't find an 80mm rear exit-fan PSU that I had any faith in and you had a good point with the BIOS. Also, I was out of time. Another thing I knew was that I could not afford to damage anything. Thanks for your help and advice.

 

[King_V]

I see you've made a decision with safety in mind - can't say as I blame you.

With the items you listed, total draw without a video card I think was under 180W, so it seems like you would've been safe as far as power is concerned, but the BIOS issue junkeymonkey brought up is definitely a potential factor.... and often, the only way to know for sure is to search exhaustively online to see if others have had success with putting the same video card you want in the same model PC you have. Sometimes, that's difficult info to find conclusively.