Have to Unplug and Plug in my HDMI to HDMI Cable to Get Picture to TV

[Fritzy PC]

Hey there,

Every time I start up my computer, there is no signal to the TV. I have to wait until I hear the log on sound (Windows 7) until I can unplug and plug back in the HDMI cable to either of the HDMI ports (I have two NVIDIA GTX570's in SLI).

As the title states, unplugging and re-plugging the HDMI cable is the only way to get the computer to understand that there is a display plugged in, thus sending a signal.

To add to this frustration, when I look at displays under Windows resolution, it lists my display as (Panasonic-TV), which it is. This listing is also found on my NVIDIA control panel.

Here are my tests that have not worked so far:

-Turning the tv on before/after startup

-Changing every video setting possible on the tv while the computer is on and connected

-Using as many EDID fetch programs as possible/ downloading the official EDID specifically for my tv. (I may have missed something though)

-Turning the cable around (TV side now in PC side and vice versa)

-Using a new cable

-Starting up with all permutations of cable in TV ports and PC ports

-Drinking lots of coffee


That sums up most of what I have tried (I may have forgotten some). I have had my PC (I built it) since fall of 2012 and have always had this problem.

Here are my specs:

Windows 7 Ultimate 64-bit SP-1

Intel i7-2700k @3.5GHz

Memory 8192MB

DX 11

NVIDA GTX570's in SLI

Panasonic Vierra 32''

Full dxdiag in link:http://

 

[Pallimud]

I've read where someone had this issue and it turned out they just had a cheap hdmi cable, BUT since you already tried new ones, let's move on.

Have you updated your nvidia drivers to the latest? I assume you did, so let's move on.

Have you tried running only one video card and seeing if it works? Try one then the other to see if SLI or one of the cards might be causing some issues.

Last suggestion is to play with resolutions. Change the resolution for the tv to the lowest possible, like 640x480, 32-bit, and the Refresh Rate to 60Hz. Now reboot and see if it is detected. If it is, incrementally increase the resolution and repeat. It may be that the resolution you are using right now is causing the problem and you need to find the safe output.

 

[Fritzy PC]

Thank you for getting back to me so quickly. It took me a while but I did something like you suggested. First, I removed both cards and plugged the HDMI into my motherboard. No input. Tried just one card in, no input. Tried the other card in (by itself like the other), no input. Switched the order they were in, no input. Took them both out. Tried just the motherboard again. It worked....

At this point, I looked up on ASUS, as I have many times before, what might be the problem. I found a link on the side in a related category that mentioned resetting my CMOS. After looking into it, many people said that doing so had solved a lot of their problems.

After resetting it, I put both cards back in, but left them out of SLI. Plugged the HDMI into the card in the first PCI slot, turned on the computer, and it kept signal right to the desktop, and stayed on....

Over the last few days, when i startup, sometimes the input will stay, and sometimes it will cut out seconds after the desktop appears. When it cuts out, not even re-plugging the HDMI cable works, in any port. I have to force restart to get it back.

Now I'm even more confused than before. 🙁
But at least is sort of works now.

 

[Pallimud]

That's too bad but at least you're halfway working. It could just be software compatibility issues, but did you try the resolution suggestion?

 

[Fritzy PC]

I still have not tried the resolution settings, but the problem seems have evened out to a pattern. I turn on pc, it boots up, I can see the log on screen loading, it goes to desktop, seconds later, signal cuts out. Force restart, signal always stays. My idea is that i have to wait till the tv boots up then boot the pc. I know I should have tried that before, but I didn't want to forget replying.

 

[Pallimud]

Interesting, well I'm happy you found a workaround!

 

[Fritzy PC]

Thanks for you help!

 

[datdarndot]

After pulling out a lot of hair (as well as plugs), I finally resolved this problem counter-intuitively. My Acer H5360 DLP projector has worked for years with the software-configurable input selection set to "HDMI-locked". I don't recall exactly when I started suffering the terribly annoying need to unplug/plug the HDMI connector whenever the slightest blip would cause it to lose sync and report "No input signal". But regardless, it seemed sensible that "HDMI-locked" would be least susceptible to losing the signal due to transients. Wrong - or at least, not the best choice.

A brief explanation — by default, my PJ will automatically cycle through all of its possible inputs whenever it starts up or is missing an input signal.These include D-sub, component, and HDMI, and it takes ten seconds or so to first detect and then lock-onto whichever input is active. Since I use only HDMI, I long-ago configured the PJ to skip the auto-detection and stay locked onto the HDMI port. Unfortunately, this apparently prevents the PJ from exchanging handshakes at any point beyond its initial signal detection at startup. With my setup involving two monitors as well as an AV receiver, it seems there are routinely at least a couple of glitches when Power DVD switches the nVidia card's output to theater mode (or whatever), and with any such glitch a new handshake is invoked — and denied by the PJ because it is "locked" to HDMI. I finally discovered that by re-enabling the auto-detect, I no longer need to get down on my hands-and-knees behind the center recliners to unplug/replug the HDMI cable during the Windows boot cycle, or whenever Windows switches display configuration as PowerDVD launches. I may need to wait 10 seconds as the PJ re-establishes the HDMI connection — but it does so dependably and automatically.

One other thing I'd like to mention. This problem occurred even though my Acer PJ is connected directly to the DVI port of the nVidia card (using an HDMI/DVI adaptor) for video only. The other monitor (in another room) is connected via the Denon receiver (in the same room as the PJ) to the nVidia's HDMI port. The reason for this is to satisfy nVidia's 3D Vision requirement that an "approved" 3D-capable PJ is connected. If the Acer PJ is connected via the Denon receiver, nVidia "sees" only a Denon – not an approved Acer H5360. By using redundant, parallel outputs, I can view the 3D content on the PJ via its video-only DVI/HDMI connection, while listening to the DTS-HD audio via the Denon from the other nVidia HDMI port. Amazingly, it works and everything is in sync — so long as it gets to indulge in a couple extra HDMI "handshakes" periodically.

 

[Bugslayer]

After pulling out a lot of hair (as well as plugs), I finally resolved this problem counter-intuitively. My Acer H5360 DLP projector has worked for years with the software-configurable input selection set to "HDMI-locked". I don't recall exactly when I started suffering the terribly annoying need to unplug/plug the HDMI connector whenever the slightest blip would cause it to lose sync and report "No input signal". But regardless, it seemed sensible that "HDMI-locked" would be least susceptible to losing the signal due to transients. Wrong - or at least, not the best choice.

A brief explanation — by default, my PJ will automatically cycle through all of its possible inputs whenever it starts up or is missing an input signal.These include D-sub, component, and HDMI, and it takes ten seconds or so to first detect and then lock-onto whichever input is active. Since I use only HDMI, I long-ago configured the PJ to skip the auto-detection and stay locked onto the HDMI port. Unfortunately, this apparently prevents the PJ from exchanging handshakes at any point beyond its initial signal detection at startup. With my setup involving two monitors as well as an AV receiver, it seems there are routinely at least a couple of glitches when Power DVD switches the nVidia card's output to theater mode (or whatever), and with any such glitch a new handshake is invoked — and denied by the PJ because it is "locked" to HDMI. I finally discovered that by re-enabling the auto-detect, I no longer need to get down on my hands-and-knees behind the center recliners to unplug/replug the HDMI cable during the Windows boot cycle, or whenever Windows switches display configuration as PowerDVD launches. I may need to wait 10 seconds as the PJ re-establishes the HDMI connection — but it does so dependably and automatically.

One other thing I'd like to mention. This problem occurred even though my Acer PJ is connected directly to the DVI port of the nVidia card (using an HDMI/DVI adaptor) for video only. The other monitor (in another room) is connected via the Denon receiver (in the same room as the PJ) to the nVidia's HDMI port. The reason for this is to satisfy nVidia's 3D Vision requirement that an "approved" 3D-capable PJ is connected. If the Acer PJ is connected via the Denon receiver, nVidia "sees" only a Denon – not an approved Acer H5360. By using redundant, parallel outputs, I can view the 3D content on the PJ via its video-only DVI/HDMI connection, while listening to the DTS-HD audio via the Denon from the other nVidia HDMI port. Amazingly, it works and everything is in sync — so long as it gets to indulge in a couple extra HDMI "handshakes" periodically.

 

[Bugslayer]

I'm having a similar issue. What does "PJ" refer to?
I'm connecting my Acer desktop to an old Olevia screen with and HDMI to DVI cable. No aftermarket card, just the Intel HD. The driver is the generic Microsoft PnP.

For a while this would work, except when I booted the computer using the "restart" option at shut-down, or when a Windows Update commanded a restart during the shutdown or initial boot. In those cases I would get "No Signal" and have to re-boot the computer with the HDMI unplugged (turning off the monitor did NOT suffice) and then plug it back in once it was running.

Recently something changed and now I ALWAYS have to have the HDMI unplugged during start up, or I get "No Signal."

 

[uglyduckling81]

I get this problem with my Projector (PJ) Sony. Almost every time I have to stand on the couch unplug and replug the HDMI cable on the roof mounted PJ.

It wasn't always like this. I thought perhaps the HDMI cable had degraded over time as it's about 25' long. Bought 2 Redmere active HDMI cables to replace the existing cables. Same problem.

 

[Brian314]

So I believed I had resolved this issue on my Asus with NVIDIA GTX960M and onboard Intel video by changing the Intel Scaling setting from "Maintain Display Scaling" to "Scale Full Screen" and matching resolutions between laptop and monitor. But it only fixed it for reboot or power down/start up. It seems the issue remains when I come back to a sleeping laptop. But I do not think it is simply when in sleep because it does not occur when only asleep for a short time. On my system, sleeping starts after 10 minutes but hibernation starts after 180 minutes and I have to be gone for a long time to get the issue to occur, so I am now thinking hibernation is the culprit.

WORKAROUND: I did find that I can hit the "Windows Key + P" key combination then hitting enter to disable dual monitor. This resets everything to resolve the blank screen/flickering hourglass.