Question Having a small list of wrong things......

chuffedas

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A quick question to start with:
Could a faulty USB to sata adapter kill an SSD?

I am trying to set my Pi up with libreelec and since that started, I have had some issues.
I can't get sound through hdmi on my pi.

The ssd is intermittent connection now through the adapter (i have only realised that as it has got worse)
I have stopped using it.
I am now wondering if the adapter had done something to the pi.

While messing with the pi, I went to juggle around some ssd.
Took one from my laptop and all was going well, then things started going wierd.
I thought it was me, as I don't do these things a lot and can get them wrong, but formatting was all wierd I spent hours checking stuff, but then my pc (linux mint) wouldn't recognise the ssd (in the adapter) but the laptop would (manjaro) anyway, eventually it stopped working and i realised it wasn't me, but the drive has failed completely now it seems.

Anyway, since then, I have tried to charge my torch from my pc and my torch won't charge or work now.

Then my SPDIF out card stopped working when I was trying to stop a buzzing sound.
(I did idiotically forget to power down my pc when I unplugged it)

I don't know if these are all a coincidence as I am fiddling with them anyway, or if something has gone wrong. Can a faulty usb to sata short something out?

Cheers.
 

Krotow

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Technically faulty adapter can give you jackpot, killing both drive, host and power supply at once :)

In reality it may be that adapter simply doesn't provide enough power for SSD. Try another USB to SATA adapter or connect drive directly to SATA interface in computer.

I have one USB to IDE/SATA adapter which works fine with drives (HDD, SSD, ODD) that have their separate power connector. But SDD with SATA power only with this adapter is a gamble - some drives are working, some not. Particularly I solved my SATA (un)powered SSD issue with cheap Gembird 2.5" USB to SATA enclosure (EE2-U3S-2-R). I keep it around in disassembled state exactly for such mystery cases. USB SATA adapter from this enclosure does support all 900 mA (standard for USB 3.0 power output), enough for some mystery drives which require around 700 mA instead of USB 2.0 500 mA.
 

chuffedas

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Technically faulty adapter can give you jackpot, killing both drive, host and power supply at once :)
Crikey, really?
So if it can do that, I guess it is shorting and so could cause pretty much any problems couldn't it?

It didn't cross my mind. I just bought an adapter without thinking about it.
It was this one:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/USB-3-0-To-SATA-22-Pin-2-5-Inch-Hard-Disk-Drive-SSD-Adapter-Connector-Cable-UK/203234477752?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Looks like that was an expensive four pounds.

a) I wonder if it has caused some internal damage to my pc.
How would I work that out?

b) I haven't got another drive for my laptop.
I hope it hasn't damaged that as well.

c) I am hoping it hasn't caused damage to my brand new Pi.
It might explain why I can't get sound from the hdmi.

d) The ssd. I tried attaching the drive direct to the pc.
It sort of recognised it and really really didn't like it. I can't remembeer the error.
I tried putting it back in the laptop and loading manjaro onto it. But it couldn't do anything to it. I thought maybe the pins on the drive needed a more solid mount like in the laptop.
I then tried using dban on it in the laptop. But it wouldn't do it.

e) I took my torch apart and it seems to work again.
Though the little light that comes on and says it is charging isn't working.
I haven't tried plugging it into pc usb again.

f) I am not great with electrickery. But, the spdif board seems to have continuity to the case from the pins. Which I don't think is right.
Unless it earths through it (or something)
In fact there is continuity from the 5v pin to the screw hole, that attaches to the case. That can't be right.
 

Krotow

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Shorting is possible. However I would keep that as final possibility.

At first connect that drive to real SATA interface, not USB - to ensure that drive itself is working. If you don't have desktop computer around, go and visit some relative or friend who have a desktop PC. And take mentioned adapter with you. In desktop computer connect your drive to SATA interface. If drive doesn't appear then alas - it is faulty. But most likely it will respond and appear up as expected. If drive respond and is possible to format it to file system that is recognized by Pi (probably FAT32), do it here. Maybe put few small files inside for test. Now take drive out from computer and connect to your adapter. If drive does not appear through adapter in any of USB port in computer where it worked via SATA connection then adapter is faulty. If it works, then you can go back and try with your laptop. Now back in your place. If drive does not work with laptop in any USB port then your laptop USB ports are too weak (does not provide enough current for connected SDD). Otherwise if SDD is recognized and appear in Linux UI together with copied files then you are good. Now you can try drive through USB adapter with Pi. Keep in mind that one of two ports may not work - or Pi power supply is too weak and you simply must use a bit more powerful power supply.

Recalled in memory last trip to UK - 4 pounds was like 4-pack of drinkable beer in Tesco. I adore your shopkeepers - very polite bunch in comparison with some indifferent di@khead remains from Soviet era here.
 

chuffedas

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No, the drive is not recognized in either my pc or laptop.
I put the drive directly attached to sata in pc.
No go.
When I put into the laptop, I mean i installed it completely into the laptop.
No go.

I have never been to your part of the world, but I can assure you there are quite a range of shopkeepers here.

On the plus side, the laptop with the other drive seems fine.
(I had forgotten the one I was attaching to the pi. I am not going to use that again for a bit)

So, just broken now, pi, torch, spdif board, adapter and drive.
Plus me :( lost a few days to this of my time off.

Is there a kind of diagnostic I can run?
To see if something is now shorted in my pc?
My first guess would be the usb.
Although would they be connected to the spdif?
 

Krotow

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So dead SATA drive. At least you can use it as paperweight. Now I'm starting to believe that second SATA drive should work just fine. At least in USB port that provide enough power for drive and with same adapter you have.

If SPDIF card is PCIe adapter and have shorter pin in second connector pin group, then it may be even alive. PCIe does support adapter hotplugging by design (mostly).

USB testing is easy. Get USB flash drive - even better if it earlier worked in all ports on tested computer. Backup all files that matter. Then put it in non-working port and see what happens. You can check non-working USB port also with USB mouse and other easy recognizable low power peripheral. If they are working, problem is elsewhere.

For PCIe fault detection and POST code reading there are PCIe testers - like this one and this one.

Using torch in electronics soldering? Yikes :eek: Only soldering iron and hot air gun for SMD elements, both with temperature control. Plus proper solder and flux. Zooming lens and microscope for tiny things in help.

Losing a day... tell me. Just lost a week when coworkers updated configuration loading and broke all my unit tests. I believe that UK may have nasty shopkeepers too. I met mostly nice ones in my way. Especially liked waiters in Stratford-upon-Avon's 1940s cafe.
 

chuffedas

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:) When were you here?

Thanks for this.
Yeah, three days in so far trying to work out how to work out what to work out.
Of my holidays too.

I will work through your post after breakfast.
I just wanted to add. During this time, adding to my confusion, my usb dac (which is currently an open board on the side) would stop working if i moved it. I thought maybe the connection was loose. But now it works fine. I wonder if it is electrical now as maybe if something was wrong electrickery wise....... something something something.

At the same time, when I was trying to work out formatting that just wasn't working, i was trying with my usb stick as well. That wasn't reading properly at times either. Pretty sure when the adapter was not attached. That also seems fine now.

At the end which made me realise the adapter was not right, the pi was telling me it was/wasn/t attached continuously until it froze the pi.

So I tried to attach the adapter with ssd to pc. The connection was also intermittent.
At the beginning, it seemed to work fine with an old 32gb ssd. It seems to have gradually got worse i think. As originally I could format a drive with it.

Just thinking about the power supply through it thing.
 

Krotow

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I'll bet on lack of power for SSD here. Either your Pi power supply must give more amps than current one - most likely. Or Pi USB port doesn't support enough current for your SSDs. Particularly if you have Pi power supply with 1.5-2 amp output, get one with 3A output instead. Then try again.

Particularly for Pi there is a power support issue tied to powering through MicroUSB connector for smaller Pi boards. I believe these can't reliably work with more power demanding devices because MicroUSB can't reliably support current over 1A. Especially with shoddy cables. Quick charging protocols in smartphones use larger voltages for reason.

I had a trip to UK at end of June 2019.
 

chuffedas

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Oh, crap.
I installed gsmartcontrol.
To run a final test on the dead ssd.

Plugged ssd into sata inside pc.

It took a while to boot, bbut did boot, then it tripped the electrics in my house.
Briefly stopped the electric everywhere but strangely didn't trip the breaker switch.
 

Krotow

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Weird. I would buy if computer PSU would go into protection mode due to short in 5V rail. But that shouldn't trip circuit breaker in home. Probably you have too much electric/electronic stuff plugged behind same circuit breaker. I'm aware about circuit breakers in UK wall contacts and wall plug connectors.

In short - what happened with that non-working SATA drive?
 

chuffedas

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So dead SATA drive. At least you can use it as paperweight. Now I'm starting to believe that second SATA drive should work just fine. At least in USB port that provide enough power for drive and with same adapter you have.
btw, do you ever sleep?

Thank you loads for your help as well.

OK, some confusion. I tried a newer ssd already with the adapter in the pi and it was showing intermittent connection.
Then I tried the same newer ssd into my main pc with the adapter.
That also showed intermittent connection.


If SPDIF card is PCIe adapter and have shorter pin in second connector pin group, then it may be even alive. PCIe does support adapter hotplugging by design (mostly).
OK, thanks.
OK, at least that means it was damaged by the pc rather than me hotplugging it, thanks.

Ummm, actually, no, it plugs straight to motherboard. SPDIF Out.
Does that work thee same way as PCIe?
Unpowered though I have realised. The card itself has three pins. spdif, gnd and 5v.
But my mobo doesn't have the 5v pin there, so it was unpowered.
Which makes me more confused how that might be faulty.
I need to think more about that.



USB testing is easy. Get USB flash drive - even better if it earlier worked in all ports on tested computer. Backup all files that matter. Then put it in non-working port and see what happens. You can check non-working USB port also with USB mouse and other easy recognizable low power peripheral. If they are working, problem is elsewhere.
Ah, yes, of course. Good thinking.

The thing is, the ports were mostly working before, but kind of messing things up.
Like, say, for example, the usb dac.
Pretty sure me touching it did something with electrickery.
It is now fine. It def wasn't a loose connection.
I reckon i could lick it now.

OK, old mouse.

OK, well, I started off fine.
Light on mouse came on fine for the first four or five ports.
Then on another one, it came on bright, then dropped a level, then went off then came back on and stayed on at the same low level.
Now it does that for all the usb ports.
Everytime i plug it in, same sort of flicker thing then stays at lower level.
It is a cheap mouse. It always just came on before.

It still works when plugged in.



For PCIe fault detection and POST code reading there are PCIe testers - like this one and this one.
Ah, right, thanks.


Using torch in electronics soldering? Yikes :eek: Only soldering iron and hot air gun for SMD elements, both with temperature control. Plus proper solder and flux. Zooming lens and microscope for tiny things in help.
I think we have our wires crossed a bit here :)
It is a USB rechargeable torch.
I went to charge it up from my pc and it stopped working.
It is another thing that has worked perfectly for years until last few days.
Now it is intermittent. So faulty.
 

chuffedas

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Weird. I would buy if computer PSU would go into protection mode due to short in 5V rail. But that shouldn't trip circuit breaker in home. Probably you have too much electric/electronic stuff plugged behind same circuit breaker. I'm aware about circuit breakers in UK wall contacts and wall plug connectors.

In short - what happened with that non-working SATA drive?
I know right?
Yes, it very briefly stopped the whole house for just a split second.
Everything switched off.

But it didn't trip the house breaker which normally would go for something like that.

Interestingly you say about too much stuff plugged in.
I currently don't have a trip switch/breaker between it and the wall.

Also, I have just removed two items... no, three from that double socket as I didn't like so many things there. I never had any problems before.
I removed them before I started playing with this adapter.

Again, unless it was another in a fairly long list of coincidences eh?
 

chuffedas

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Well, the same thing happened, a flash power out without tripping any switches.
BUT Without me putting in the dead ssd.
It is a windy day.
So, that made me wonder if we are having any short power outs due to weather or something.
So, i plugged in the dead ssd again and it tripped the whole house again at exactly the same time.

I have put a breaker on my pc now, (after the first power out when I plugged in the ssd)but I am thinking that stops surge TO the pc not FROM the pc, right?

Oh, boy, this is fun.
 

Krotow

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OK, some confusion. I tried a newer ssd already with the adapter in the pi and it was showing intermittent connection.
Then I tried the same newer ssd into my main pc with the adapter.
That also showed intermittent connection.
USB... power... current... sort this out at first. In place of that SSD I would die from starvation long time ago.

Ummm, actually, no, it plugs straight to motherboard. SPDIF Out.
Does that work thee same way as PCIe?
Unpowered though I have realised. The card itself has three pins. spdif, gnd and 5v.
But my mobo doesn't have the 5v pin there, so it was unpowered.
Which makes me more confused how that might be faulty.
I need to think more about that.
.....
Like, say, for example, the usb dac.
Sorry, what kind of SPDIF connection you have? Optical or coaxial? And where SPDIF is connected in PC side? To motherboard, separate PCIe to SPDIF adapter or USB DAC adapter with SPDIF output? Both must work if recognized by system. Eq. should work in latest Linux distros as well.

I use SPDIF in Linux from 2000-ies and had no problems so far if sound chip is recognized by system.

Buzzing sound in analog audio circuitry does happen due to ground continuity loss. Bad contact in Line Out, headphone socket or headphone volume regulator for example. Also teared ground in analog audio/headphone cable.

I think we have our wires crossed a bit here :)
It is a USB rechargeable torch.
I went to charge it up from my pc and it stopped working.
It is another thing that has worked perfectly for years until last few days.
Now it is intermittent. So faulty.
LOL With torch I imagined small utility torch. Some nuts are using these to desolder BGA chips. And then dare to weep in this forum about destroyed motherboards.

Particularly I have portable T100 soldering iron with full tip set. It is warming up very fast ans does keep temperature well. Very handsome to take with me and may be powered from 4S LiPo battery on field too. There is also a desktop version of same soldering iron compatible with HAKKO FX951 tips (this tip set matches). As hot air soldering station I use Quick 857DW+. There is better Quick 861DW around, but that is on expensive side and usually owned only by repair services because of that.

btw, do you ever sleep?
It happens. Anyway I live 2 hours ahead of you. At that post time torched people in Postal 4 Alpha to avoid falling into depression after a week lost in nothing (the line about tests above).

Well... have fun with your weather. Riga have sunny, but windy -11C now.
 

chuffedas

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USB... power... current... sort this out at first. In place of that SSD I would die from starvation long time ago.
Umm, pardon?

Sorry, what kind of SPDIF connection you have? Optical or coaxial? And where SPDIF is connected in PC side? To motherboard, separate PCIe to SPDIF adapter or USB DAC adapter with SPDIF output? Both must work if recognized by system. Eq. should work in latest Linux distros as well.

I use SPDIF in Linux from 2000-ies and had no problems so far if sound chip is recognized by system.

Buzzing sound in analog audio circuitry does happen due to ground continuity loss. Bad contact in Line Out, headphone socket or headphone volume regulator for example. Also teared ground in analog audio/headphone cable.
It is one of these:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/253952186520?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&itemid=253952186520&targetid=1139674278907&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=1007179&poi=&campaignid=12125464319&mkgroupid=118098890058&rlsatarget=pla-1139674278907&abcId=9300481&merchantid=10082954&gclid=Cj0KCQiAyJOBBhDCARIsAJG2h5etqvKnrymco4iXHXgCySJomfsxdbdRkeZgI82hi7VC1FVJ0W3KX8waAuQQEALw_wcB
Plugs into spdif out straight on mobo.It has three pins, 5v, grnd and spdif, but my mobo has no 5v pin there.
It can do Optical and Coaxial. But as no power atm, only coaxial.
I have had it for 6 months to a year.
I pulled it as it started causing buzzing on a different input in my separate amplifier.
Tried pulling everything, pulling the coax stopped it.

That was when I started using a different way for sound.
My usb dac (khadas tone board) to amplifier.
Since I removed the spdif board, the usb dac seems fine.

Except now I have unplugged it as the pc might be tripping the house.
Of the three trips, two were with the ssd, the middle one, not.
The ssd is def tripping the house.
It took exactly the same time both times.
Or a MASSIVE coincidence.




LOL With torch I imagined small utility torch. Some nuts are using these to desolder BGA chips. And then dare to weep in this forum about destroyed motherboards.
Ah... lol. Wow.
Boy we were having different conversations weren't we?
No, I was just trying to charge this up from usb port.:
https://www.toolstation.com/ring-led-rechargeable-zoom-torch/p69072
and it is now broken.

Particularly I have portable T100 soldering iron with full tip set. It is warming up very fast ans does keep temperature well. Very handsome to take with me and may be powered from 4S LiPo battery on field too. There is also a desktop version of same soldering iron compatible with HAKKO FX951 tips (this tip set matches). As hot air soldering station I use Quick 857DW+. There is better Quick 861DW around, but that is on expensive side and usually owned only by repair services because of that.
I am pretty new to soldering.
That looks pretty neat.

I picked up an old used Pace ST70 which I am very pleased with.
Plus a cheap hot air thingy to play with.


OK, now we know I am not blowtorching my mobo.... i have forgotten what to do next.
 

Krotow

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USB... power... current... sort this out at first. In place of that SSD I would die from starvation long time ago.
Umm, pardon?
It was a metaphor. Did mean power output in USB port here. Not enough watts eq. too low current or voltage sag in USB port - not enough to power connected external USB drive/SSD in result. You should sort out the exact cause. Are it is because port can't give enough power or Pi power supply is too weak. Most likely second, but check to be sure. Don't hesitate to use multimeter if needed. Should be at least 4.9V for USB Vcc pin.

It is one of these:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/253952186520?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&itemid=253952186520&targetid=1139674278907&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=1007179&poi=&campaignid=12125464319&mkgroupid=118098890058&rlsatarget=pla-1139674278907&abcId=9300481&merchantid=10082954&gclid=Cj0KCQiAyJOBBhDCARIsAJG2h5etqvKnrymco4iXHXgCySJomfsxdbdRkeZgI82hi7VC1FVJ0W3KX8waAuQQEALw_wcB
Plugs into spdif out straight on mobo.It has three pins, 5v, grnd and spdif, but my mobo has no 5v pin there.
It can do Optical and Coaxial. But as no power atm, only coaxial.
I have had it for 6 months to a year.
I pulled it as it started causing buzzing on a different input in my separate amplifier.
Tried pulling everything, pulling the coax stopped it.

That was when I started using a different way for sound.
My usb dac (khadas tone board) to amplifier.
Since I removed the spdif board, the usb dac seems fine.
Usual simpleton SPDIF output board, nothing strange here. Which motherboard you have? Buzzing from coaxial cable happen because of improper grounding. You didn't powered SPDIF output board so I believe you used only SPDIF pin without common ground. Don't do that. If motherboard lack +5V for SPDIF, use common ground and +5V from any HDD/ODD Molex connector in your system.

Except now I have unplugged it as the pc might be tripping the house.
Of the three trips, two were with the ssd, the middle one, not.
The ssd is def tripping the house.
It took exactly the same time both times.
Or a MASSIVE coincidence.
Make that drive to be paperweight or bobblehead or something different not connected to electricity. Unless you want to make sparking stunts in Colin Furze style.

Boy we were having different conversations weren't we?
No, I was just trying to charge this up from usb port.:
https://www.toolstation.com/ring-led-rechargeable-zoom-torch/p69072
and it is now broken.
From your previous posts didn't imagined that. Nothing serious, except don't connect it to computer. Charge it from phone charger ;)

I picked up an old used Pace ST70 which I am very pleased with.
Probably Pace ST70 also have temperature sensor inside a tip with inductive heater. For beginner seems easy walk. Though they seems are trying to keep with same fixed temperature (like +320C or 600F). Not good if you want to solder various PCBs - like ones with power connectors and huge solder blobs and tiny SMD elements in same time. Very hard to adjust between them. Because of that I'm happy with my T100.
 

chuffedas

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I do appreciate you keep coming back.


It was a metaphor. Did mean power output in USB port here. Not enough watts eq. too low current or voltage sag in USB port - not enough to power connected external USB drive/SSD in result. You should sort out the exact cause. Are it is because port can't give enough power or Pi power supply is too weak. Most likely second, but check to be sure. Don't hesitate to use multimeter if needed. Should be at least 4.9V for USB Vcc pin.
Right.
Thanks.
I can't get my DMM probes in, I will have to pull apart a cable and test via the wires.
An old usb 2.0 cable will measure the same in a usb 3 port, right as they power usb 2 items.
I'll do it on my pc as well, as that has now got me concerned.

Most of the USB stuff i am talking about is with my PC, yes?

Usual simpleton SPDIF output board, nothing strange here. Which motherboard you have? Buzzing from coaxial cable happen because of improper grounding. You didn't powered SPDIF output board so I believe you used only SPDIF pin without common ground. Don't do that. If motherboard lack +5V for SPDIF, use common ground and +5V from any HDD/ODD Molex connector in your system.
My mobo:
https://www.gigabyte.com/Motherboard/GA-B85-HD3-rev-21#ov

No, I think it was common ground (check my words, I am new to electronics as well as soldering). The two that plug in are spdif data and grnd pins.


Make that drive to be paperweight or bobblehead or something different not connected to electricity. Unless you want to make sparking stunts in Colin Furze style.
lol.
Yup, scared the <Mod Edit> out of me.
Although, now we had an actual power cut for 5 minutes.
Just to confuse things.
But it happened exactly the same time twice.
I am very tempted to try again :)


From your previous posts didn't imagined that. Nothing serious, except don't connect it to computer. Charge it from phone charger ;)
:)
Yeah, it doesn't seem to be charging from a phone charger either now.
Not since I plugged it into the pc this time.

Probably Pace ST70 also have temperature sensor inside a tip with inductive heater. For beginner seems easy walk. Though they seems are trying to keep with same fixed temperature (like +320C or 600F). Not good if you want to solder various PCBs - like ones with power connectors and huge solder blobs and tiny SMD elements in same time. Very hard to adjust between them. Because of that I'm happy with my T100.
You are right.
It has different plugs for each temperature.
https://cpc.farnell.com/pace/1207-0446-06-p1/power-module-st70-7-7-violet/dp/SD01336
It was a good price and I like it because it is simple and consistent.
Holds temperature well.
Also, a big range of tips.
I imagine i will want more later.

It is simple. Like me.

----------------------------
Right, question.
When my usb stuff has played up from my pc.
Might it be a short?
What is it?


To make an unpowered spdif board break (I think the capacitor has gone)
To break a usb torch.
To make touching a usb DAC board stop working.
Break an ssd through usb.

Could something permanent have happened? Can I test for it?

Especially the touching my usb dac. What was that?

Might they be power going down the data stream?
 
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Krotow

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SPDIF power and ground problem seems easy to resolve. Your motherboard (see the manual) have two SPDIF connectors (page 16):

SPDIF_IN with all 3 pins (1 - power, 2 - input, 3 - ground)
SPDIF_O with 2 pins (1 - output, 2 - ground)

Keep SPDIF board output connector on motherboard connected as is and connect dangling power wire to SPDIF input power pin (SPDIF_IN, pin 1).

And check if SPDIF connector at other end have ground continuity from computer. May happen that you have teared ground at opposite side.

USB DAC seems have bad contact somewhere. In headphone socket or USB connector.

Pace ST70 temperature jacks seems are resistors or small non-serviceable potentiometers used to enable some preset settings. Look like came from 3rd grade science class constructor. I don't like this approach. If I want to have +270C, I want to turn temperature to this number. And dangling not used jacks are prone to become lost - because of lousy hands or because cat liked them and threw them somewhere around. Though it is my personal preference.
 

chuffedas

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Pace ST70 temperature jacks seems are resistors or small non-serviceable potentiometers used to enable some preset settings. Look like came from 3rd grade science class constructor. I don't like this approach. If I want to have +270C, I want to turn temperature to this number. And dangling not used jacks are prone to become lost - because of lousy hands or because cat liked them and threw them somewhere around. Though it is my personal preference.
Lol :)
Yeah, I can see that.
I think they were like you say, school, or industry type thing.
No kids (any more) or cats here to eat the modules.
This was a great price compared to a decent adjustable one.
I like that it is strong and I can kick it.

When I grow up, i might get a different one.

USB DAC seems have bad contact somewhere. In headphone socket or USB connector.
well, it is fine now that i am not using that adapter it seems.
I move it now and it workes fine.
I wiggle it and jiggle it, no problem. Same usb lead as well.
Which is why i think it is evidence of something from pc before?



SPDIF power and ground problem seems easy to resolve. Your motherboard (see the manual) have two SPDIF connectors (page 16):

SPDIF_IN with all 3 pins (1 - power, 2 - input, 3 - ground)
SPDIF_O with 2 pins (1 - output, 2 - ground)
Correct.
IMGP4455



Keep SPDIF board output connector on motherboard connected as is and connect dangling power wire to SPDIF input power pin (SPDIF_IN, pin 1).

And check if SPDIF connector at other end have ground continuity from computer. May happen that you have teared ground at opposite side.
I am confused again. Sorry.

OK, I will have to work out some wires for this.
(the cable has a block connector both ends)

I get to attach the 5v cable to pin one on SPDIF in.

I don't understand what to actually do at the other end.
What am I touching with my dmm to "have ground continuity from computer. "
Sorry.
 

chuffedas

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Hmmmm, I have justtested my coax on my amplifier with another output.
It doesn't seem to work.
I am wondering if my pc (dead ssd or adapter) has popped it.
It worked before all of this.
 

Krotow

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Just noticed that my last answer wasn't posted yet :) Sorry.

Well, in eBay picture SPDIF board have signal cable with 3 wires and several optional connector headers. You probably still have them. Anyway they are easy obtainable in same store where you get your Pi.


One end of cable goes into SPDIF board. Second - to motherboard SPDIF_O connector with brown/yellow (signal) wire to SPDIF_O pin 1 and black (ground) to SPDIF_O pin 2. Red wire here is power (+5V) - connect it to motherboard SPDIF_IN connector pin 1. I propose to jack it out from that 4-pin connector header and move into separate 1-pin header. And more remaining wires into other 2-wire header make them consistent :) Then board will be properly connected and powered with a possibility to use optical fiber cable for SPDIF connection (no possible buzzing anymore). If you now see red light in SPDIF optical socket, it is a sign that you can do that.

About other end... If you connect only signal wire between 2 devices without connecting their "grounds", you will get a noise instead of useful signal. That noise is buzzing you are experiencing now.
 

chuffedas

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Thanks.
I appreciate the clarification.

So, no sound, no little light.

Can I just quadruple check.
I tested for the live pin by putting black probe to mobo mount screw, right?
Found the pin giving 4.95v
No light, no sound when put power to it.

I don't have a lot of components on my board.
If I have done tests right, the diode is only flowing the right way and the big cap is showing right uf and 0.6 ohm and vloss 9.1% (don/t know about those ones)

I am not sure why i didn't test the little ones.

I have just checked something else though.
You know where the pin 'isn't' on SPDIF Out?
I tested that pin and it was 3.3v.
Ooooops
 

chuffedas

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Another interesting one.
You know my torch?
Well if i plug it into a usb port to charge.

My mouse stops working.
Light underneath is still on, but it won't move.
 

Krotow

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I already wrote which SPDIF connector pin in your MOBO is which. Even gave a link to MOBO manual where all connector pins have detailed numbers and description. Are it is too hard to understand?

3.3V in SPDIF out is valid. They use 3.3V logic and unused lines are pulled to 3.3V power rail through resistors while not used.

MOBO case screws through case are connected to mains grounding which is not the same as common ground (GND) in MOBO circuit. Do not use them because 1) they are not connected to MOBO circuit common ground and shouldn't be and 2) if PSU or mains connection have grounding issues, it is quite possible to get 60...127V instead of common ground and fry something. Plus shocked fingers if you are lucky. For ones who are sitting inside tank I'll repeat: Do not use PC case or MOBO screws as GND substitute. NEVER! MOBO have plenty other valid GND pins - use them.

Your USB flashlight charging controller most likely is dead and have 5V pin shorted to ground (you can check that with multimeter). It is why USB in computer malfunction when you want to charge that flashlight in computer. You can try to repair that flashlight if you wish. Though I would not plug it into any computer anymore.

FYI: Your compatriot BigClive have nice explanations about flashlight controller design. Check his YouTube channel - very interesting stuff indeed.
 

chuffedas

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Sorry I am asking stupid questions.
I am new to this. I am just double checking I am not doing anything wrong as what you suggested didn't work. So something is wrong. Maybe it is what I have done.
I was checking there was power.

The reason I was asking about touching to the mobo screw is that someone else told me to use the screw on the the mobo. I was a bit surprised that is what you did.
So I am glad I am asking as you have set me right on that.
It is hard when you don't know stuff who to believe.

I thank you for your clarification.


Yes, it seems like the torch is dead. I will put that aside as another thing to fix.
Thanks for the link.
So, i wonder if it was the ssd or adapter that fried it.
I suspect the ssd.
Although I suspect the controller damaged the ssd to start with.
I wish I could remember what i had plugged in when i went to charge my torch.
I imagine the ssd with the adapter.

So. I still don't understand what has happened.
If the torch controller is shorted, my immediate reaction is that the same thing happened to the spdif.
But there was no power to it.
So could power have gone up the spdif data cables?

I need to check all of the components on that. Other than just the bigger ones.
 

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