Help !! 2.4, 3.0 or 3.2

Toggle sidebar Toggle sidebar
D

dinoshan

Distinguished
Dec 19, 2001
104
0
18,680
Hello guys.
I want to upgrade from celeron 2.4 oc'd 3ghz to P4 processor. I need your help in this.
Can a P4 2.4 oc'd to 3ghz using stock cooler?
If it can be done should I get 2.4 or 3.0?
What speeds can 3.0 be oc'd to using stock cooler?
Considering the temperature would it be wise just to go for 3.2?
I'm usign Asus P4S800 mobo.Will oc' hurt my northbridge?I heard it gets hot too.
I'm using Icute psu at 420w.Would there be enough power for above 3.0?


Thank you for your advice.
 
Are you getting another Celeron? I ask because I have no idea what that board supports.

To save us both time, assume I know EVERYTHING :tongue: <P ID="edit"><FONT SIZE=-1><EM>Edited by mozzartusm on 02/03/05 08:54 AM.</EM></FONT></P>
 
Ok I guess my post was too short though....
I'm upgrading to Northwood P4 processor cos my mobo does not support Prescott 'E' prefix.
I'm using northwood celeron now and my board is Sandalwood Paste colour (kinda between yellow and orange).
I'm also looking to sell my celeron, so can you recommend me a portal where i can do that?
Thanks<P ID="edit"><FONT SIZE=-1><EM>Edited by dinoshan on 02/03/05 09:03 AM.</EM></FONT></P>
 
One more thing...
The reason I want to know which processor is because P4
2.4C is US 157
3.0C is US 212
3.2C is US 237

Hypothetically speaking if I can clock 2.4C to 3ghz and 3.0C to 3.5 and 3.2C to 3.6, would it not be better ratio to stick with 2.4 cos it gives more bang for bucks?
Or is 3.0 and 3.2 highly overclockable too?

Sorry but I'm confused in all directions. Please help!!
thanks
 
There are no guarantees when overclocking. You may get a great overclocker, or one that barely runs above stock settings. I use a 2.8c, and it runs fine at 3640 (260 fsb). But it took me 5 northwoods to find a good overclocker. I recommend a retail boxed cpu. I used my warranty once, so it came in handy. I also recommend a zalman "fan mate 1" rpm adjuster for the cpu fan. I run mine at 2500 idle, but it rises as needed. Stick with a "c" northwood, and the Intel heatsink will work fine.
 
Too bad the Scotty's are nothing like the NWCs. Maybe Intel will finally use SoI one day. Until then, NWC will be much more OC-friendly than Scotty.

I'm still hedging over OCing my 2.6c. I'm mostly undecided because I'm also considering moving to a fanless HS like a Scythe NCU-2000 to reduce the noise. OCing and silence generally don't mix. :\

<pre>I just want to say <font color=red>I wuv you</font color=red>.
And I mean it fwom the <font color=red>bottom of my hawt</font color=red>.</pre><p>
 
Your making a wise decision sticking with the C series. Like the last guy said, it comes down to whether you get unlucky and end up wtih one that doesnt OC well. That would probably not concern me to much. Keep in mind that the closer you get to the limits of the cpu's abilbity to oc more attention has to be given to the systems stability. I have a 3.0E that runs smooth at 3.5 I was able to hit 3.9 with it, but it wasnt stable. I suspect that if I had left it there long I would have damaged the chip. Are the 3 C series CPU's your only choices? Where do you live? Depending on your location, I may have some additional links that you can check out for CPU's and prices. You may havre already mentioned this but im to lazy to go back and look. What brand and speed RAM do you have?

As for the Northbridge, dont worry to much about it for now. If it gets to hot there are some cheap ways to cool it. One option is to get a $8.00 cyclone exhasut fan and just take the bracket off. Then you can suspend it with nylone cable ties so that it blows directly onto the Northbrigde. What case are you using and how many fans are you running?

To save us both time, assume I know EVERYTHING :tongue:
 
What case are you using with your system? Do you have a 120mm exhaust fan on the rear of the case? The reason that I ask is that if you do theres a simple little trick you can try that may make your heatsink idea work.

To save us both time, assume I know EVERYTHING :tongue:
 
I guess the "vanilla" was not clear. If you have the original P4S800, it did not have dual channel memory. This means a 10% hit on performance. Under those cercomstances, you may want to look at getting a new board as well.
A P4c @ 3.2ghz (without dual channel) would not be as fast as an xp-m @ 2.2. Either way, it wouldn't really be worth the price of a more expensive chip.
In your position, if changing the board was not an option, I would not spend more than the cost of a 2.6c, and keep my fingers crossed. Mind you, even at stock, the 2.4c would be a major upgrade.
 
Great info guys...
Just to fill in the missing info
My Icute case has 2 fans on the psu and two at the back of the case and 1 on top that's inlet.
I checked Asus website and even emailed them, my board revision is 2.00 so does not support prescott 'E' prefix.I don't want to get a prescott without HT.Moreover everyone seems to say it's too hot.I'm from Singapore by the way and there's a shopping complex here that deals with only computer stuff. It's easy to get components but what i'm afraid of is that there seems to a shortage of northwood processors. Except for a couple of shops all seem to have only Prescotts. That's why i'm rushing to get one before all runs out.
I have a Kingston PC3200 CL3 512mb ram clocked at 416mhz at the moment at 2.7volt.
About the northbridge, I don't have a temp sensor,can I assume it to be hot if it can be touched for not more than 5 secs?
All the fans are 80mm.
Sorry about the vanilla thing though. My board is not dual channel.The reason i'm changing to HT is i'm really sick with waiting while one program finishes before the next begins.I always have downloads going on in the background 24/7. And (I'll watch a movie or browse)then and i also do file transfers from my drives .Most of the times the system crawls that I have to give priority to the process.


So going HT is definitely something that i really need.
One more thing though.If i get a dual cpu board and use two HT processors ,would that give me 4 processor capability.Just curious anyway.

Thanks people.
 
Get the 3.0C. If you're lucky you might even get one with the MO stepping. If you're going to buy a Northwood this is THE chip to own! PERIOD!

Abit IS7 - 3.0C @ 3.6ghz - Mushkin PC4000 (2 X 512) - Sapphire 9800Pro - TT 420 watt Pure Power
Samsung 120gb ATA-100 - Maxtor 40gb ATA - 100
Sony DRU-510A - Yellowtail Merlot
 
Yes it is printed on the retail box. Look for D1 or MO in the part number. Check <A HREF="http://ftp://download.intel.com/design/Pentium4/specupdt/24919957.pdf" target="_new">this.</A>

Abit IS7 - 3.0C @ 3.6ghz - Mushkin PC4000 (2 X 512) - Sapphire 9800Pro - TT 420 watt Pure Power
Samsung 120gb ATA-100 - Maxtor 40gb ATA - 100
Sony DRU-510A - Yellowtail Merlot
 
Your problem might also have something to do with having multiple programs needing access to one drive. An extra (fast) drive (one for Windows&swapping, one for programs/downloads or any other combination which is likely to use 2 drives at the same moment) could cause a good speed burst.
Another 512 stick could also do more for you than HT.

<P ID="edit"><FONT SIZE=-1><EM>Edited by tweebel on 02/04/05 10:27 AM.</EM></FONT></P>
 
Regarding my disks, I have a primary 10gig and secondary 80gig(into 3 drives). My swaps are at primary- system set and secondary 1024mb. But I got 47processes loaded at startup, though i can't see any cpu usage does that mean it's stillbeing used?
I tried disabling some but my internet connection seems affected.So I left them alone for now.
I'm going to get another 512 though.It's on my purchase list.

Thanks for the help guys...

<P ID="edit"><FONT SIZE=-1><EM>Edited by dinoshan on 02/04/05 09:01 AM.</EM></FONT></P>
 
What case are you using with your system? Do you have a 120mm exhaust fan on the rear of the case? The reason that I ask is that if you do theres a simple little trick you can try that may make your heatsink idea work.
Click to expand...
I've got an Antec Sonata (I love this case) with the stock rear 120mm and an Antec 120mm SmartCool for intake. Needless to say, it's nice and quiet.

Right now the loudest fan in my system is the stock Intel HSF, hence my desire to move to a Scythe NCU-2000 HSF. I've also contemplated the Thermaltake Fanless 103, but with my motherboard it'd face the PSU instead of the rear exhaust. And then there's the brand-spanking new Thermaltake SonicTower. I'm waiting for a review or two before I consider that one though.

I'm sure that a fanless heatsink will work in my case. The Sonata has good airflow and I may mod my case slightly to make that even better. I'm just not sure if I can get anything above stock speed that would be worth the effort while using a fanless HS. Plus if I push an OC I run the risk of heating up my GPU and then its fan will spin up faster and make noise. Plus my northbridge is fanless, so I have to be careful of that as well. So all in all I'd have to OC very carefully.

<pre>Antec Sonata 2x120mm
P4C 2.6GHz
Asus P4P800 Dlx
2x512MB Corsair XMS C2
Leadtek A6600GT TDH
RAID1 2xHitachi 40GB
BENQ 16X DVD+/-RW
Altec Lansing 251
NEC FE990 19"CRT</pre><p>
 
thanks for the link criag..
but it says that there is not much of MO stepping though and D1 is the one that is planned for volume production.
But it still is not clear as to where the stepping is shown on the box or processor itself.
One other thing, do the new processors box and tray as well not come with stock cooler?
Not sure but that's what it looks like in the link.
Please advice ....thanks
 
So if I understand, you have a 120 on the front for the intake and a 120 on the rear as the exhaust. IF this is correct, then see what reversing the two fans will do to the temps. This drops my temps by another 4-5 degrees. It will depend somewhat on where the fans are mounted but this is what I think that makes this work better.

By the tiem that the fresh cool air gets from the front of the case to the rear of the case it has already began to heat up. If you pull fresh cool air in from the rear of the case it hits the MOBO while the air is the coolest and then exhast out of the front. I do this on both of my sytems. The one that is water cooled I actually use both fans to pull in fresh air and just alllow the PSU to do the exaushting. I have a Themamaltake SHARK case and it has the Honeycomb side panel which also allows air to excape.

My P4 3.0E system runs on air only and OC'd to 3.5 it never gets above 55-56C even under load. The Northbridge stays cool enough also and that is saying alot with my particular board. It doesnt take but about 5 mins to reverse the fans so its no big deal if you dont see a difference.

To save us both time, assume I know EVERYTHING :tongue:
 
Ok I'll try reversing the fans, but I need to get something straight. My fans are 80mm, and my inlet is at the top not the front. My 2 rear fans are near the psu which has a rear fan and one near the cpu drawing air. So if I reverse my fans at the rear wouldn't the psu fans like just suck up whatever the rear fans are blowing in?
Kinda confusing. Could you advice me on that pls before I do anything?
Thanks
 
I was talking to slvr_phoenix in my last reply. Look on the fisrt line at the names that are RE(name). That will indicate who someone is replying to. Its no big deal, I was just pointing it out. I dont know if those 80mm fans will work well with the reversing. Ive got 120mm fans so I doubt that you would see an improvement

To save us both time, assume I know EVERYTHING :tongue:
 
ok thanks for the info...guess i never looked at the re: reply...
But tell me will it work if i use all my 3 case fans as inlet and and the 2psu fans as outlet.
And one more thing, when I check in bios the temp is like 49 cel for the processor but when in xp asus utility shows 39cel. There is a difference of 10 degrees.Which one should I trust. I had hit a high of 50+ cel in the asus utility. But if the bios is true then the actual one would be like 60+. Will I fry my processor at true 70 cel.? I think I read the max is like 68 cel. Is it true?
thanks
 
With the fan idea, you will just have to try and see. I think that if you did use at least one for intake and found a piece of rubber, plastic, or vinyl hose that is close to the same size as one of your fan brakets then you could somehow attach the hose to the fan bractket and run it just a few inches in front of the part/parts that need it the most.

Im a little confused about your different temp readings. My ASUS board is exactly the same in windows or BIOS. Have you got the latest BIOS update from the ASUS website? There may be other updates as well that would calibrate your sensors. You could also try dwonloading MBM5 and seeing what it has to say.



To save us both time, assume I know EVERYTHING :tongue:
 
So if I understand, you have a 120 on the front for the intake and a 120 on the rear as the exhaust.
Click to expand...
Yep. That be right.

IF this is correct, then see what reversing the two fans will do to the temps. This drops my temps by another 4-5 degrees. It will depend somewhat on where the fans are mounted but this is what I think that makes this work better.
Click to expand...
Wouldn't you have to reverse the fan in the power supply as well? Not that I couldn't, but that'd kill its warranty.

Still, it is an intriguing concept. I can see the advantage. I'm just not sure that the Antec Sonata case would take to it very well. In Sonata the 'front' fan is actually mounted in the middle of the case behind the hard drive cage, which would limit my exhaust. On top of the intake isn't so great in the standard configuration. It relies a little more than my liking on the side vents. So one would think then that reversing the fans would leave the intake strong but the exhaust very weak. Wouldn't that leave a lot of hot air in the case then?

I think I'd rather prefer to mod the case according to a plan I've had for a while now. I can put some intake holes into the front door, slice up the free floppy bay cover into a filter, and mount the 'front' fan's bottom two holes to the top two of the fan mount to shift the front fan to be right between the floppy bay and the CPU.

If I do that it should greatly improve my intake and give the CPU an almost direct cool-air feed from that. It might even be a good enough mod that I could then add sound damping material to the inside of the case and cover up the side vents. There's even a pre-cut kit made for the Sonata.

Of course I'll probably go to the fanless heatsink before I put in damping material. In fact, if I can get away with covering the side panel intakes I'll probably refresh my electrical engineering skills with a little LED project to fill LEDs into the side panel gaps. (Which, as the vents are holed to spell out Antec, it should look pretty neat.) Maybe I'll even try to make the LED controller programmable through a USB connection. Then I'll put the damping material over that. So really, the damping material comes last in my priorities.

But if I can manage all of that then it would be interesting to see what kind of OC I could manage on such a quiet PC. I wouldn't expect much of an OC, but then again, it is a NWC. I probably should have gone with the 2.4 instead of the 2.6 though since heat will probably give me a ceiling before the proc does. Oh well. Maybe I'll get lucky. And maybe I'll afford to do this and have it all done by ... oh ... 2007. :\

<pre>Antec Sonata 2x120mm
P4C 2.6
Asus P4P800Dlx
2x512MB CorsairXMS3200C2
Leadtek A6600GT TDH
RAID1 2xHitachi 40GB
BENQ 16X DVD+/-RW
Altec Lansing 251
NEC FE990 19"CRT</pre><p>
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

TRENDING THREADS

Latest posts

Moderators online

Share this page

COMPANY
RESOURCES
FOLLOW
Top Bottom