Help: Brand new monitor... broken!

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Hi all,

I've got a question I have yet to find an answer to. I recently
purchased from an operator a brand new 19" monitor for a cocktail
project I was building. I know the monitor was working, cause the
picture was fine for a short while while I was hooking everything up.
As I was hooking up one last connector for the coin door controls (with
the game on) all of a sudden I heard a really loud hissing noise, and
noticed that there was a really bright light right at the neck.. at
which point I had no idea what was happening, but was scared enough to
unplug the game and stand way back.

Once the hissing stopped, I opened up the game to see what if anything
I could find. I noticed the ring that is epoxied to the glass at the
neck was slightly askew, and upon turning the game on, there was no
picture, and just the crazy light at the neck.

So I called the operator that I bought the monitor from, and asked him
what was up. He said it probably cracked cause I hit it or something..
Well I know I didn't hit it, cause it was sitting there all by itself
when it happened. Anyway, I guess the vacuum is lost and the monitor
is now history. He says he cant warranty it, or send me a replacement,
and that sometimes these just go.
I dont believe that a manufacturer wont take a defective monitor back,
but I dont have a lot of recourse. Its a guy I've done business with
in the past, and he's usually cool, but he refuses to send me a new
one.

My question is can this be repaired? Can I just buy a new tube? If
so, where do I go to get one? I cant believe I have a 200$ paperweight
here, so before I just chuck it.. I'm not sure what brand it is.. it's
an Asian manufacturer, but not a name I recognize. Certainly not a
Wells Garner or Electrohome.

Any suggestions are appreciated.
Thanks
Vinny
 
G

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It might not be as simple as just replacing the tube. If you left it
on for too long you might have damaged the monitor chassis. Find a new
tube for it (plenty of info on this group), but it still might not work
after that.

Vinny Pin wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> I've got a question I have yet to find an answer to. I recently
> purchased from an operator a brand new 19" monitor for a cocktail
> project I was building. I know the monitor was working, cause the
> picture was fine for a short while while I was hooking everything up.
> As I was hooking up one last connector for the coin door controls
(with
> the game on) all of a sudden I heard a really loud hissing noise, and
> noticed that there was a really bright light right at the neck.. at
> which point I had no idea what was happening, but was scared enough
to
> unplug the game and stand way back.
>
> Once the hissing stopped, I opened up the game to see what if
anything
> I could find. I noticed the ring that is epoxied to the glass at the
> neck was slightly askew, and upon turning the game on, there was no
> picture, and just the crazy light at the neck.
>
> So I called the operator that I bought the monitor from, and asked
him
> what was up. He said it probably cracked cause I hit it or
something..
> Well I know I didn't hit it, cause it was sitting there all by itself
> when it happened. Anyway, I guess the vacuum is lost and the monitor
> is now history. He says he cant warranty it, or send me a
replacement,
> and that sometimes these just go.
> I dont believe that a manufacturer wont take a defective monitor
back,
> but I dont have a lot of recourse. Its a guy I've done business with
> in the past, and he's usually cool, but he refuses to send me a new
> one.
>
> My question is can this be repaired? Can I just buy a new tube? If
> so, where do I go to get one? I cant believe I have a 200$
paperweight
> here, so before I just chuck it.. I'm not sure what brand it is..
it's
> an Asian manufacturer, but not a name I recognize. Certainly not a
> Wells Garner or Electrohome.
>
> Any suggestions are appreciated.
> Thanks
> Vinny
 
G

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Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

It's obvious that your tube has cracked and it's not the fault of the
person who sold it to you. Temperature extremes/variations can cause
the tube to crack. Since you say this is in a cocktail cabinet it's
very possible that something is mounted (or moves close enough when
closing up the cabinet) too close to the monitor and it's pushing on or
straining the end of the tube. Could you have accidently bumped or
jarred the monitor?
 
G

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Jason, how long is "too long" the monitor was on for at most 15
seconds when it first happened, and when I turned it back on, I didn't
have it on for more than about 10 or 15 more seconds to see if anything
else had changed.. I hope this wouldn't have ruined the chassis too...
Let me know if you think it's worth trying to find a new tube for it.

Thanks
Vinny
 
G

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Unfortunately, that hissing noise did not stop after unplugging the
monitor. Guess I'm looking for a new tube at this point.
Thanks all
Vinny
 

guinness

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I bought a working monitor once and I cracked the neck while loading it into
my truck. That hissing noise is the sound of death. :D

Don't chuck it. The tube itself (the glass piece), while cracked or
whatever it is, is the only broken part. The chassis (boards) and metal
brackets should stay in place and you should just find a tube replacement
and swap out the bad with the new. You should be able to find a used
replacement tube for cheap, although I can't suggest what is compatible with
yours. You need to find out the exact model and post it.

tim (NH)

"Vinny Pin" <gaboozo99@aol.com> wrote in message
news:1113835724.340893.84790@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
> Hi all,
>
> I've got a question I have yet to find an answer to. I recently
> purchased from an operator a brand new 19" monitor for a cocktail
> project I was building. I know the monitor was working, cause the
> picture was fine for a short while while I was hooking everything up.
> As I was hooking up one last connector for the coin door controls (with
> the game on) all of a sudden I heard a really loud hissing noise, and
> noticed that there was a really bright light right at the neck.. at
> which point I had no idea what was happening, but was scared enough to
> unplug the game and stand way back.
>
> Once the hissing stopped, I opened up the game to see what if anything
> I could find. I noticed the ring that is epoxied to the glass at the
> neck was slightly askew, and upon turning the game on, there was no
> picture, and just the crazy light at the neck.
>
> So I called the operator that I bought the monitor from, and asked him
> what was up. He said it probably cracked cause I hit it or something..
> Well I know I didn't hit it, cause it was sitting there all by itself
> when it happened. Anyway, I guess the vacuum is lost and the monitor
> is now history. He says he cant warranty it, or send me a replacement,
> and that sometimes these just go.
> I dont believe that a manufacturer wont take a defective monitor back,
> but I dont have a lot of recourse. Its a guy I've done business with
> in the past, and he's usually cool, but he refuses to send me a new
> one.
>
> My question is can this be repaired? Can I just buy a new tube? If
> so, where do I go to get one? I cant believe I have a 200$ paperweight
> here, so before I just chuck it.. I'm not sure what brand it is.. it's
> an Asian manufacturer, but not a name I recognize. Certainly not a
> Wells Garner or Electrohome.
>
> Any suggestions are appreciated.
> Thanks
> Vinny
>
 
G

Guest

Guest
Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

Do you have a pic of the monitor? It isn't a "BesTech" is it? I'm
sorta in a similar situation, I got a game for cheap from a guy because
it had a 1-yr-old Bestech 19" std. res monitor in it, and for reasons
yet unknown a coil on the chassis decided to burn up. The guy I got it
from tried, in vain, to get a replacement coil or chassis for it. I
have a diagram and schematic for the chassis, but there's no part
number or inductance rating for the coil. Actually since a coil is
such a simple component, I was thinking I might try to rewind it..
Haven't got bored enough to get around to that though.

Apparently these Asian manufacturers have NO concept of customer
service.. I've heard of this problem with many types of industrial
equipment, and I guess it applies to monitors as well! They'll sell
you the finished product, but when its broke its broke, and they're of
no help to someone trying to service it.

Anyway if we're lucky and we have the same new-yet-broken monitors, ONE
of us should be able to end up with a working monitor out of the two
dead ones!
 
G

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bummer.... oh well...

"Vinny Pin" <gaboozo99@aol.com> wrote in message
news:1113845239.290593.143760@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...
> Unfortunately, that hissing noise did not stop after unplugging the
> monitor. Guess I'm looking for a new tube at this point.
> Thanks all
> Vinny
>
 

Troy

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Sep 26, 2003
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if it's a new monitor, there should be some kind of warranty for at least 30
days
The repair shop can easy see if it was a defect or your fault.
I don't think it's your fault and they should cover it.
that's why a buy directly from the happs/ the manufacturer.
they would cover that no problem. verse some op that doesn't want to replace
it, because he would lose one.

bottom line,
if your chassis isn't smoked, install a new tube.
but it's probably almost as cheap to get a new monitor.
Sell off your chassis to make some $ back.

next time buy from happ, I get mine for $150 from them., $200 retail.
and it's a good monitor and guaranteed. and did I mention they service it
very reasonable $ afterward. although a have never had to have them fix one
afterward. they work/run for many years. by that time a have sold the game
off.
no problems.


Troy,



Vinny Pin <gaboozo99@aol.com> wrote in message
news:1113835724.340893.84790@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
> Hi all,
>
> I've got a question I have yet to find an answer to. I recently
> purchased from an operator a brand new 19" monitor for a cocktail
> project I was building. I know the monitor was working, cause the
> picture was fine for a short while while I was hooking everything up.
> As I was hooking up one last connector for the coin door controls (with
> the game on) all of a sudden I heard a really loud hissing noise, and
> noticed that there was a really bright light right at the neck.. at
> which point I had no idea what was happening, but was scared enough to
> unplug the game and stand way back.
>
> Once the hissing stopped, I opened up the game to see what if anything
> I could find. I noticed the ring that is epoxied to the glass at the
> neck was slightly askew, and upon turning the game on, there was no
> picture, and just the crazy light at the neck.
>
> So I called the operator that I bought the monitor from, and asked him
> what was up. He said it probably cracked cause I hit it or something..
> Well I know I didn't hit it, cause it was sitting there all by itself
> when it happened. Anyway, I guess the vacuum is lost and the monitor
> is now history. He says he cant warranty it, or send me a replacement,
> and that sometimes these just go.
> I dont believe that a manufacturer wont take a defective monitor back,
> but I dont have a lot of recourse. Its a guy I've done business with
> in the past, and he's usually cool, but he refuses to send me a new
> one.
>
> My question is can this be repaired? Can I just buy a new tube? If
> so, where do I go to get one? I cant believe I have a 200$ paperweight
> here, so before I just chuck it.. I'm not sure what brand it is.. it's
> an Asian manufacturer, but not a name I recognize. Certainly not a
> Wells Garner or Electrohome.
>
> Any suggestions are appreciated.
> Thanks
> Vinny
>
 
G

Guest

Guest
Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

I'll have to get a picture or a model number and manufacturer.. I still
have the box.. I just took it out and repacked it in the original box
it came in. If the chassis is usable to someone, then I'd be glad to
sell it off. As for replacing the tube, after looking at the site
Steve posted, I think Ill pass on trying this. I'm not sure I'm up for
that task just yet. However, if no one wants the chassis, and someone
has a tube, I might be willing to take that and sell it as a project...


Thanks for the advice on using Happ... I'll be ordering from them in
the future. My operator buddy is someone Ill just stay away from from
now on. Again, thanks all for the helpful advice, and suggestions.

I'll be back with info on what monitor it is.
Vinny
 
G

Guest

Guest
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Im not blaming the operator, he's a friend, and been fairly decent to
me in past transactions. I only question the fact that I got a monitor
that I feel is defective, called him within a few days of getting it,
and he said he couldn't return it for a replacement. I cant believe
that if he had used this one, and it blew on him, that he wouldn't
demand a replacement from his supplier....Only reason I bought it from
him in the first place is because I was there to pick up a pinball
game, and mentioned that I was building a Jamma game, and was going to
ask him if he'd recommend a place to get a monitor.. He said he'd give
me one at cost plus a few bucks since he had about 5 of them on a
shelf. If I had gotten it from a retail outlet, I'd have given them
hell if they wouldn't replace it, but in this instance, I didn't push
it.

As for causing the fault, I'm not sure what I could have done to it..
As it is Im scared to death of getting zapped by these, so I pay real
close attention to the flyback, and the lead at the anode.. The game
was closed, and powered on and working when it decided to outgas. I
turned it off immediately, and only turned it back on to check and see
if the problem was still there.

So serious question here, as I'm still new to video, how is this my
fault? If I did something wrong, or there's something I should be
doing or not doing in order to prevent this from happening in the
future, please tell me.. I dont feel like spending the money on more
monitors if I dont have to.

Thanks
VP
 
G

Guest

Guest
Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

> Thanks for the advice on using Happ... I'll be ordering from them in
> the future. My operator buddy is someone Ill just stay away from from
> now on. Again, thanks all for the helpful advice, and suggestions.
>
> I'll be back with info on what monitor it is.
> Vinny
>


I hope you don't blame the operator, this is the difference between buying
an xbox from bestbuy (retail) and buying industrial parts. This is a
situation where even if you didn't cause the fault (highly unlikely), its
still pretty obvious that they can't stand behind it due to fraud. What I
am trying to say is that even if you didn't break it, if your operator
friend had replaced it, he would have gone broke years ago by helping people
that would most likely be cheating him.

Thats just part of this hobby, I was a hardcore collector for about 5 years
and then I took about a year off playing xbox games. It was wierd to go
into a store and just buy something new off the shelf!!

Later,
Mickster
 
G

Guest

Guest
Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

The only thing I can say is watch the tube of the neck. You might have
stressed it somehow when you put it in the cocktail or ?? It probably then
let loose once it was powered up. If I had sold a new monitor and had the
buyer say it outgassed after he installed it, I probably would not give him
a refund or take the monitor back either since he could have hit the tube or
stressed it. Now, if you opened up the box and the neck was cracked already,
that is a different story. Don't know if Happ would warranty something like
this either if it had been installed already. Now, you could always put it
back in the box and say you noticed it was broke already once you opened the
box and they probably would not have a problem with replacing the monitor.

Brian

"Vinny Pin" <gaboozo99@aol.com> wrote in message
news:1113926911.935950.300460@l41g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...
> Im not blaming the operator, he's a friend, and been fairly decent to
> me in past transactions. I only question the fact that I got a monitor
> that I feel is defective, called him within a few days of getting it,
> and he said he couldn't return it for a replacement. I cant believe
> that if he had used this one, and it blew on him, that he wouldn't
> demand a replacement from his supplier....Only reason I bought it from
> him in the first place is because I was there to pick up a pinball
> game, and mentioned that I was building a Jamma game, and was going to
> ask him if he'd recommend a place to get a monitor.. He said he'd give
> me one at cost plus a few bucks since he had about 5 of them on a
> shelf. If I had gotten it from a retail outlet, I'd have given them
> hell if they wouldn't replace it, but in this instance, I didn't push
> it.
>
> As for causing the fault, I'm not sure what I could have done to it..
> As it is Im scared to death of getting zapped by these, so I pay real
> close attention to the flyback, and the lead at the anode.. The game
> was closed, and powered on and working when it decided to outgas. I
> turned it off immediately, and only turned it back on to check and see
> if the problem was still there.
>
> So serious question here, as I'm still new to video, how is this my
> fault? If I did something wrong, or there's something I should be
> doing or not doing in order to prevent this from happening in the
> future, please tell me.. I dont feel like spending the money on more
> monitors if I dont have to.
>
> Thanks
> VP
>
 
G

Guest

Guest
Archived from groups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting (More info?)

Ok guys, I checked the monitor again tonight. It's a Kortek standard
res CGA 19" monitor... the box it came in also says "Imperial" on it..
model number is KT0019. Im sure that's just a shorthand version of
Kortek 19" monitor. I should have mentioned that in my previous post
that while I was very careful to stay away from the Flyback and anode,
what I was really trying to say is that I am aware of all the high
voltage points including the neck board. The monitor was installed
directly from the box by holding the chassis, and placing it onto the
cocktail top.. meaning the neck and board were facing upwards.. Once
bolted to the top.. the entire top and side panel were attached to the
rest of the cabinet with a piano hinge.. and subsequently kept closed
once hooked up. The coin door is a standard Midway 2 slot coin door
with the mechs flat against the door, so no projections into the
cabinet, and nothing anywhere near the neck from any direction.. no
wires, nothing on the coin door, not the power supply nothing.. I can
understand that you might think that I may have inadvertantly caused
some stress on the neck or board, and that's a valid point. However I
am more than confident that I was extremely careful in trying to AVOID
this area if only because of the fear of shorting any of the high
voltage circuitry, or getting shocked.

As for the op's not wanting to replace it, or send it back for a
replacement himself.. it would make sense that if he had them for more
than 30 days, he wouldn't be able to get a replacement, but I think
that if I had sold one of these to a buddy, and he told me it went out
on him... I'd probably take it back anyway, just out of principle.

So as it stands, I've got a bum monitor.. Anyone want the chassis?
Anyone want the whole thing to try and repair it?. I'ts got all of
about 10 minutes of power on it. I've already replaced it with
another, so unless someone wants it.. I'll probably just store it until
I find a use for the chassis, or decide to try and replace the tube..
Tell me what it's worth, and I'll go from there.

Again, thanks for all the replies, advice, info, etc. you guys are
great.
Vinny
 

Troy

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it's not your fault vinny,
and your right, at op should cover it. no matter how he has had it sitting
around.
if his is an op, he can just send it back. long after the 30 days.
the 30 days only applies after you open the box.
meaning 30 days after the purchase date that you bought it.
they don't go bad sitting on the self.
so that means it's a defective one and needs to be returned.
bottom line,


Troy,


Vinny Pin <gaboozo99@aol.com> wrote in message
news:1113965710.559218.303490@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
> Ok guys, I checked the monitor again tonight. It's a Kortek standard
> res CGA 19" monitor... the box it came in also says "Imperial" on it..
> model number is KT0019. Im sure that's just a shorthand version of
> Kortek 19" monitor. I should have mentioned that in my previous post
> that while I was very careful to stay away from the Flyback and anode,
> what I was really trying to say is that I am aware of all the high
> voltage points including the neck board. The monitor was installed
> directly from the box by holding the chassis, and placing it onto the
> cocktail top.. meaning the neck and board were facing upwards.. Once
> bolted to the top.. the entire top and side panel were attached to the
> rest of the cabinet with a piano hinge.. and subsequently kept closed
> once hooked up. The coin door is a standard Midway 2 slot coin door
> with the mechs flat against the door, so no projections into the
> cabinet, and nothing anywhere near the neck from any direction.. no
> wires, nothing on the coin door, not the power supply nothing.. I can
> understand that you might think that I may have inadvertantly caused
> some stress on the neck or board, and that's a valid point. However I
> am more than confident that I was extremely careful in trying to AVOID
> this area if only because of the fear of shorting any of the high
> voltage circuitry, or getting shocked.
>
> As for the op's not wanting to replace it, or send it back for a
> replacement himself.. it would make sense that if he had them for more
> than 30 days, he wouldn't be able to get a replacement, but I think
> that if I had sold one of these to a buddy, and he told me it went out
> on him... I'd probably take it back anyway, just out of principle.
>
> So as it stands, I've got a bum monitor.. Anyone want the chassis?
> Anyone want the whole thing to try and repair it?. I'ts got all of
> about 10 minutes of power on it. I've already replaced it with
> another, so unless someone wants it.. I'll probably just store it until
> I find a use for the chassis, or decide to try and replace the tube..
> Tell me what it's worth, and I'll go from there.
>
> Again, thanks for all the replies, advice, info, etc. you guys are
> great.
> Vinny
>