[SOLVED] HELP! How can I make my laptop fan run faster?

[madthrashers]

Hello there. I have an Asus K75V equipped with a gt 635M 2gb, i5 2.5 GHz and 8 gb Ram. My problem occurs when I play video games like CS:GO, LOL, DOTA, when my laptop is basically freezing due to overheating then followed by blue screen. The main problem is the fan wich is not spinning fast enough at 85C+ temperatures. And I know it can spin faster, because sometimes its spininning blazing fast and the games run very smoothly, but this happens very rarely. The solutions I tried(and didnt work):
-changing thermal paste
-cleaning the fan
-buying a cooling pad (changed 3 of them by now)
-removing the back panel for better airflow (i am really desperate)
-updating all the drivers ( last version of windows&bios )
-using software like SpeedFan, Open Hardware Monitor, HW Monitor (it doesnt affect the fan speed) -System cooling policy - active -took it to a service ( after 2 weeks - they had no idea what is the root of problem) The only thing that lowers the temperature is the fan when it decides to run faster. Im trying to solve this problem for months, but Im starting to give up :( Do you have any idea how can I make this fan run faster? I am willing to pay if there is a solution. Any solution is welcome, no matter how "exotic" it is (and no, i dont have money to buy a new PC ).

 

[delaro]

I'm guessing here but you have tried setting the power profile to max performance when plugged in and poked around with AI Suite III?

It's also possible the fan is starting to go bad.

 

[madthrashers]

I tried multiple times to install that program-AI Suite III- but never succeeded due to various errors of incompatibility. Yes, the profile is set to max performance.
I hope the fan its still ok, because its a nightmare to open this laptop.

 

[Crosslhs82x2]

have you looked into this.
You may have to use a different asus model but sometimes it works.
https://www.softpedia.com/get/Tweak/Registry-Tweak/NoteBook-FanControl.shtml

 

[madthrashers]

have you looked into this.
You may have to use a different asus model but sometimes it works.
https://www.softpedia.com/get/Tweak/Registry-Tweak/NoteBook-FanControl.shtml

I have tried all the asus configs. None of them change the fan speed

 

[Crosslhs82x2]

the user manual said if you have to many applications open it can run hot and to close out anything not needed.
Would this possible help with the cooling stand also?
https://www.newegg.com/p/0VE-01KD-0...m_re=laptop_cooler-_-0VE-01KD-00029-_-Product
Otherwise I don't know what else to try except if it is still under warrenty get ahold of asus.

 

[delaro]

the user manual said if you have to many applications open it can run hot and to close out anything not needed.
Would this possible help with the cooling stand also?
https://www.newegg.com/p/0VE-01KD-00029?Description=laptop cooler&cm_re=laptop_cooler--0VE-01KD-00029--Product
Otherwise I don't know what else to try except if it is still under warrenty get ahold of asus.

The problem is how the intake design is...it's just poor like all the V series, that would help only if that backplate is removed and the entire unit is raised enough you are avoiding negative pressure.

Sometimes you have to MacGyver things to work, this was for a neighbors kid and an old Acer that had the same issue even after I replaced the fans and thermal paste. I ended up forcing way more air into the chassis than it could exhaust which means air found a way out every possible opening and crack... the side effect was a nice breeze across your left hand.

 

[Karadjgne]

90% of thermal issues in a laptop aren't cpu related. They are battery related. That's the purpose of the cooler pads, to cool off the battery, not the cpu/gpu.

When you pull power from a battery it heats up, the higher the draw, the higher the battery heat. A laptop when plugged in is in a constant state of charging the battery, it's not powering the laptop, the battery is. Which is why windows/bios allows the full 25w or so and full turbo boost instead of the standard 15w and partial boost.

To get better performance, you need to figure out a way to heatsink the battery so when the fan is spinning, it's breeze through the frame is more effective. Windows/bios will kill performance in order to preserve battery function, because overheated batteries have a tendency to split, leak, blow up.

The downside to lowering cpu heat output is that it tricks windows into thinking the battery isn't that hot, when in reality your added draw/performance boost on cpu/gpu is creating even higher draw amounts, resulting in higher battery temps. Chilling the battery is more important than cpu.

 

[Crosslhs82x2]

Damm good info to Know!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Thanks Karadjgne!!!!!!!!

I made my cooler stand from 2 noctua fans, a fan spliter, a variable motor speed control, a 50-60 hz ac/ dc adapter, a sheet of poloyene sheet 2 -2 inch bolts, 2-2.5 inch bolt nut washers and rubber nipples for the end of the bolts for what ever surface protaction. The fans ,splitter, motor control and ac/dc adapter was laying around collecting dust but in good use now.

 

[Karadjgne]

Yeah, it's twisted. You plug in and start gaming. Everything is going good for about an hour, that's when performance suddenly drops off and you have no idea why. It's because the battery is overheating, which lowers it's lifespan, so it drains faster and once it hits a certain % of battery left, shuts down the boost to allow the battery to recharge. It's right about that time of performance loss that ppl look at the temp and freak out, thinking it's temps causing throttling. It is, but not to the extent they think, it's not cpu temps, it's battery life.

The cooler you can keep the battery, the longer the charge lasts, the more efficient it charges while being used. Longer boosts last.

 

[delaro]

90% of thermal issues in a laptop aren't cpu related. They are battery related. That's the purpose of the cooler pads, to cool off the battery, not the cpu/gpu.

When you pull power from a battery it heats up, the higher the draw, the higher the battery heat. A laptop when plugged in is in a constant state of charging the battery, it's not powering the laptop, the battery is. Which is why windows/bios allows the full 25w or so and full turbo boost instead of the standard 15w and partial boost.

1. Check your distance bud.. there is no way even a crap battery being charged 100% of the time is going to affect the CPU/GPU in terms of heat, this isn't an Apple laptop where the battery is right under the system board, these are removable and modular located nearly 2 inches away under the screen.

2. These use an energy-efficient smart charging system that does not continuously hit the battery when plugged in, it only keeps it at 100% and even when charging the casing is only warm, not hot. The system also monitors the battery temps and backs off when they hit a certain range which is part of the reason older batteries on these never charge right. These also back off charging when the system is demanding more power from the wall should the adapter not have the capacity to provide both max charging capacity performance.

To get better performance, you need to figure out a way to heatsink the battery so when the fan is spinning, it's breeze through the frame is more effective. Windows/bios will kill performance in order to preserve battery function, because overheated batteries have a tendency to split, leak, blow up.

"Removable" Charge then pull it out if it's a concern but honestly the heat transfer even when it's 0% and a max charge is very little. The casing itself will never hit over 30°C on these. To take this a point further you can hold those batteries in your hands while it charges outside the casing and you won't get a burn, they just don't produce enough heat to be a factor

The downside to lowering cpu heat output is that it tricks windows into thinking the battery isn't that hot, when in reality your added draw/performance boost on cpu/gpu is creating even higher draw amounts, resulting in higher battery temps. Chilling the battery is more important than cpu.

Everything you said might have applied to an older gaming system that lacks these new energy-efficient charging systems but for this one, it's a complete non-factor.

 

[Karadjgne]

Well you will probably know better than me the specifics of this Asus, all I can say is you can't pull the battery out of my daughter's laptop, it shuts down if you do. The battery also gets uncomfortably warm when she games hard and it's a 2 yr old msi. So I can only go by what I know. I'll have to do more research on these newer systems cuz if what you say is true, that's awesome. About damn time too lol.

And about the heat, it's a 2way street. The battery heats up, the inside of the casing area heats up, heat from the heatsink area heats up the casing etc. Pull the cover off or pull the battery out when it's charging and you eliminate a lot of indirect heat source. It only takes 60°C to start damaging a li-Ion battery leading to thermal runaway, the issue Sony and Dell had, not Apple.

 

[madthrashers]

the user manual said if you have to many applications open it can run hot and to close out anything not needed.
Would this possible help with the cooling stand also?
https://www.newegg.com/p/0VE-01KD-00029?Description=laptop cooler&cm_re=laptop_cooler--0VE-01KD-00029--Product
Otherwise I don't know what else to try except if it is still under warrenty get ahold of asus.

Yes, the only thing that I didnt try its a vacuum cooler. Heard it permanently damages your fan, is it true? Anyway, I`m going to get one asap

 

[Crosslhs82x2]

Have now idea.
But that shows to be variable speed.
Start low rpm so it's not working against the cpu fan.