Help me decide between two builds

[MihoBP]

Hi, I am going to get a new budget gaming PC soon and i was wondering which one of the builds bellow will you recommend me? (I won't overclock)

1st Build :


Intel Core i5-6500 3.3GHz

GIGABYTE Z170-HD3, Socket 1151

MSI GeForce GTX 1070 8GB

Kingston HyperX Fury Black 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2133

Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM

ADATA Premier SP550 120GB 2.5"

EVGA 500W

(Can you suggest me a case for the two builds? I don't need it to be pretty/good looking, just to have good airflow)


2nd Build:


Intel Core i5-6600 3.3GHz

GIGABYTE Z170-HD3, Socket 1151

GeForce GTX 1060 6GB

Kingston HyperX Fury Black 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4- (with higher speed)

Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM

SAMSUNG 850 EVO 2.5" 250GB

EVGA 500W


Thanks for your attention.

 

[CTurbo]

1st build is a lot stronger for gaming, but which monitor you are going to use makes a lot of difference on whether to choose the 1060 or 1070.

The psu is weak in both builds. The Z170 motherboard is unnecessary in both builds.

 

[MihoBP]

1st build is a lot stronger for gaming, but which monitor you are going to use makes a lot of difference on whether to choose the 1060 or 1070.

The psu is weak in both builds. The Z170 motherboard is unnecessary in both builds.

Can you suggest a better motherboard or psu?

 

[CTurbo]

What country?

 

[MihoBP]

What country?

Bulgaria

 

[Chugalug_]

Budget?
And would you be open to shipping from Germany?

 

[MihoBP]

Budget?
And would you be open to shipping from Germany?

around 1000$ and yes

 

[Chugalug_]

Budget in Euros pls.

 

[photonboy]

I had a GTX680 which is about the same as a GTX1050Ti and was able to play a large number of games at 2560x1440 so I wouldn't worry about that too much.

Simply choose the appropriate resolution for the game you have. That's something you'd have to tweak. A game like SKYRIM for example doesn't benefit much beyond 1080p IMO. Sure, the HUD gets slightly sharper but I don't notice when playing, and the rest of it looks the same to me unless I have really good texture and intentionally look for differences.

LOTS of games look far better at 2560x1440 though so if possible I'd try to get such a monitor. I'd rather have a GTX1060 + 1440p monitor than have a GTX1070 + 1080p monitor.

Other:
I suggest 16GB if possible, but that's mostly future proofing. Otherwise, either get a single stick of 8GB or 2x4GB (if 2x4GB make sure you have four memory slots so you can add an IDENTICAL kit later).

If single stick I'd get at least one of the 2666MHz rated sticks. Testing shows for gaming it shouldn't bottleneck the CPU much, but if concerned for other software go 2x4GB 2666MHz to double the bandwidth.

 

[photonboy]

PCPARTPICKER can also help "build" a PC easily. It checks for most compatibility issues and you can filter stuff.

You'd also have to check what's actually available to you and adjust for pricing.
https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/

*I'm going to make a UK build but likely the pricing will be off. Just for fun and as a starting point. I'll post below. (It will not include the cost of Windows, and the budget is a guesstimate).

 

[Chugalug_]

As did I photonboy, and paired with an i7 2700k I had to switch Doom to medium/low settings to get 60fps at 1080p.
At 1440p there's no question that graphically intensive games won't run well, it's not powerful enough to handle that.

 

[photonboy]

https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/rr4hm8

That's just an EXAMPLE. Depending on exact budget where you live, and personal preference there's several things you could change.

*Also no CPU cooler. Stock is fine, just too noisy for my taste under load. I was going to list the Cryorig H7 but there's no price so I didn't bother. It would be about 35pnd likely. (and setup a proper fan control setup with motherboard software).

I don't like to cheap out on the power supply or motherboard too much. I've built and repaired too many PC's to do that.

 

[MihoBP]

https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/rr4hm8

That's just an EXAMPLE. Depending on exact budget where you live, and personal preference there's several things you could change.

*Also no CPU cooler. Stock is fine, just too noisy for my taste under load. I was going to list the Cryorig H7 but there's no price so I didn't bother. It would be about 35pnd likely. (and setup a proper fan control setup with motherboard software).

I don't like to cheap out on the power supply or motherboard too much. I've built and repaired too many PC's to do that.

Thank you ^^ You're awesome!
Do you think 650W power will be more usefull than a 500W one?

 

[photonboy]

As did I photonboy, and paired with an i7 2700k I had to switch Doom to medium/low settings to get 60fps at 1080p.
At 1440p there's no question that graphically intensive games won't run well, it's not powerful enough to handle that.

I guess you're referring to the GTX680, but there are a lot of games that run great with a GTX1060 at 2560x1440.

Anyway, like I said above it totally depends on what game you have. In some cases if the HUD had a lot of small text I might crank down other visuals to get that sharp.

GUILD WARS 2 actually ran at 2560x1440 with almost max settings whilst maintaining 60FPS on my GTX680 + i7-3770K.

Assassin's Creed 4 ran like ass, and still sucks with a GTX1080 unless I crank down PhysX and a few other settings.

*Most people crank to High/Ultra despite what they have and maybe drop a few settings if they drop below 30FPS. That's really NOT the best way to do it. You need to set your goal (such as 60FPS VSYNC, VSYNC OFF, Adaptive VSYNC) and then carefully tweak towards that.

DOOM ran really great on my GTX680 BTW though I don't remember what settings I ended up with. I can max with my GTX1080 but it's not THAT much better visually IMO now.

**Anyway, frankly with some tweaks there's not much a GTX1060 + i5-6500 can't run at max or near-max of the visual fidelity the game offers. Many settings that kill the FPS don't add enough visually to justify the cost.

(tessellation, anti-aliasing beyond a certain point in some games, higher shadow settings etc)

 

[gungamer]

In your place i'd go with the first build. You won't need to upgrade the gtx 1070 alytime soon and it performs better than the gtx 1060. You can upgrade the cpu in the future.

 

[photonboy]

https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/rr4hm8

That's just an EXAMPLE. Depending on exact budget where you live, and personal preference there's several things you could change.

*Also no CPU cooler. Stock is fine, just too noisy for my taste under load. I was going to list the Cryorig H7 but there's no price so I didn't bother. It would be about 35pnd likely. (and setup a proper fan control setup with motherboard software).

I don't like to cheap out on the power supply or motherboard too much. I've built and repaired too many PC's to do that.

Thank you ^^ You're awesome!
Do you think 650W power will be more usefull than a 500W one?

650W is overkill in terms of raw power, though it should be quieter than a similar model since fans often start to ramp up about 50% load in a power supply.

UPDATE: just checked power and it's lower than I thought with an i5-6500 since it's a newer, non-overclockable CPU

You'd only use max roughly 200W though with a GTX1060, and closer to 250W total with the GTX1070 so it's really not a big deal. Even if you add a couple HDD's and fans that won't change much

*I actually thought that model has the ECO MODE though which can disable the fan. It does not. THIS ONE does:
https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/product/9q4NnQ/evga-power-supply-220g20650y1

I have the 750W version and my fan does not come on. Frankly, I'm fine if the fan is quiet but most reviews said the EVGA G2 model has "whisper quiet" fans and that turned out to be f'ing BS as I'm noise sensitive.

On the other hand, the "Be Quiet" I bought my dad is whisper quiet so I'm not sure what to trust unless it gives the dB value.

(Be Quiet is also German so perhaps you can find one locally.)

**If you're really looking to save money then THIS one should be okay. There may be better, though there certainly is worse:
https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/product/zNK7YJ/evga-power-supply-100b10500kr

Other:
Also, make sure it has at least one "6+2" power connector. That supports either a single 6-pin or 8-pin power connection on graphics cards.

 

[photonboy]

http://www.hardwarecanucks.com/forum/hardware-canucks-reviews/71760-intel-skylake-i5-6500-i5-6400-i3-6100-review-12.html

Worst-case power with an i5-6500 is only 84W for the system!!

So again gaming with a GTX1060 is probably closer to 200W total for the entire system. Wow, that's really hard to believe now that I think about it.

(not much that's about 400W though that is high quality and saves you enough money to recommend though)

*Here's another choice. It's semi-modular as well so less cable clutter than the 500W I listed. Don't confuse this with the older 450W (non-M) as it was a worse product. Also, to confuse more the newer "2015" model replaces the previous model.
https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/product/FQ648d/corsair-power-supply-cp9020101na

Perfectly fine for you, and has 2x (2+6-pin) so actually supports up to 2x8-pin. I think it's been redesigned to consider that newer CPU's use a lot less power now as it's rare to see that much GPU power allocated.

I guess my point is that theoretically you can support another GTX1060 even though it's only a 450W PSU. Seems odd but it might not go above 350W whilst gaming so it's possible.
http://www.corsair.com/en/cx-series-cx450m-450-watt-80-plus-bronze-certified-modular-atx-psu-na

 

[Chugalug_]

Still need your budget in Euros to make a list OP.