Help me identify this PSU

[Mil_1]

I've got this "Mac Tech WT-PS-6001" a 600 watt PSU.
It seems to be doing fine, I have ran a 3DMark test and nothing unusual happened. System specs below.
Phone's busted, will try to post photos of it later.
What can go wrong? Can I keep using it? Because I got it for half the price of a branded PSU.

4 GB 1333 DDR3
HDD TOSHIBA DT01ACA100 1TB
GTX 650 Ti
CPU i5 3340.
DVD RW.

 

[kanewolf]

With power supplies, "you get what you paid for" is usually VERY true. A $20 power supply does not have quality components. It is likely to fail and perhaps with dangerous results. Look at this article -- http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/how-we-test-psu,4042.html on how Tom's tests power supplies. There are LOTS of criteria that go into a quality power supply. A cheap one just can't fulfill them.

 

[Ubrales]

http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/id-2547993/psu-tier-list.html

This list will help identify the good ones from the bad ones, and ones in between.

Try to pick one from Tier 1 or Tier 2. The PSU is a very important component of the system, and sometimes failure of the PSU may damage other computer components.

 

[Mil_1]

With power supplies, "you get what you paid for" is usually VERY true. A $20 power supply does not have quality components. It is likely to fail and perhaps with dangerous results. Look at this article -- http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/how-we-test-psu,4042.html on how Tom's tests power supplies. There are LOTS of criteria that go into a quality power supply. A cheap one just can't fulfill them.

Here are the voltages from HWMonitor
2.98 Volts (+3.3V)
4.98 Volts (+5V)
8.93 Volts (+12V)
-3.98 Volts (-12V)
-6.10 Volts(-5V)
2.84 Volts (+5V VCCH)
Is it dangerous?

 

[Ubrales]

With power supplies, "you get what you paid for" is usually VERY true. A $20 power supply does not have quality components. It is likely to fail and perhaps with dangerous results. Look at this article -- http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/how-we-test-psu,4042.html on how Tom's tests power supplies. There are LOTS of criteria that go into a quality power supply. A cheap one just can't fulfill them.

Here are the voltages from HWMonitor
2.98 Volts (+3.3V)
4.98 Volts (+5V)
8.93 Volts (+12V)
-3.98 Volts (-12V)
-6.10 Volts(-5V)
2.84 Volts (+5V VCCH)
Is it dangerous?

Yes! The 12V specs are out of control. Same with the 5V specs. Stop using this PSU and replace as soon as you can.

 

[Mil_1]

With power supplies, "you get what you paid for" is usually VERY true. A $20 power supply does not have quality components. It is likely to fail and perhaps with dangerous results. Look at this article -- http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/how-we-test-psu,4042.html on how Tom's tests power supplies. There are LOTS of criteria that go into a quality power supply. A cheap one just can't fulfill them.

Here are the voltages from HWMonitor
2.98 Volts (+3.3V)
4.98 Volts (+5V)
8.93 Volts (+12V)
-3.98 Volts (-12V)
-6.10 Volts(-5V)
2.84 Volts (+5V VCCH)
Is it dangerous?

Yes! The 12V specs are out of control. Same with the 5V specs. Stop using this PSU and replace as soon as you can.

Well shiiit, gotta hope on my camel and get a new one, is it okay if I use it for a day?

 

[Ubrales]

Stop using this PSU immediately, and get a replacement. Do not continue to use it even for a day (or less).

Pick one from Tier 1 or Tier 2 - http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/id-2547993/psu-tier-list.html

Look for sales and promos at Newegg, Amazon, and other sources. I have seen XFX 550 watts PSUs regularly on sale at good prices. This is a good PSU.

 

[Mil_1]

Stop using this PSU immediately, and get a replacement. Do not continue to use it even for a day (or less).

Pick one from Tier 1 or Tier 2 - http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/id-2547993/psu-tier-list.html

Look for sales and promos at Newegg, Amazon, and other sources. I have seen XFX 550 watts PSUs regularly on sale at good prices. This is a good PSU.

Can't shop here or there and the closest shops are 120+ km away. Yes, I live in the middle of nowhere.
But do you think we can do something so Tomshardware adds this model to the list of bad PSUs? I've seen hundreds of these models and Google shows absolutely no results regarding the company or the model.

 

[madmatt30]

You can't trust voltages in hwmonitor - have no doubt that PSU is a 'bag o crap' but those voltage readings are wrong.
Your PC wouldn't be stable at all if they were right.

 

[Mil_1]

You can't trust voltages in hwmonitor - have no doubt that PSU is a 'bag o crap' but those voltage readings are wrong.
Your PC wouldn't be stable at all if they were right.

You're right, the BIOS system health says:
Cpu vcore 0.948
drav voltage 1.512
+5v 5.187
+12v 12.171
Cpu VIT 1.068
But the cpu fan is between 1000-1200 rpm only
That's all there is.
Also, been on for 4 hours straight, played a couple of stressing games Watch Dogs, Mad Max and kept repeating stress tests 3DMark CPU-Z and Windows Experience Index, Not a single error or black screen, nothing. Is it legit?

 

[madmatt30]

That's within like .1% margin wise which is OK.

What you've likely got is a generic PSU actually manufactured by chieftec ,inwin or casecom with a 12v rail of under 30a

Meaning really its a 350-400w absolute max in real world terms.

Firms like Mac tech buy in bulk & rebrand as a 600w because the the 3v & 5v rails are likely over specced massively bulking the peak total power rating up to that 600w they use on the label

3/5v are hardly used in modern systems - big rails on those hark back to the early 2000's when they were needed.

22a+ on the 12v rail is enough for your components, there should be a label on the OSU with a voltage table listing.

Is it a good PSU - no.
Is it capable of running your system - yes.

You take your own risk with these generic rebrands mate - some people run systems for years with no problems , others could have a fail or fire within a couple of months - proper crapshoot in that respect

 

[logainofhades]

Even a Tier 3, or tier 4 unit would be vastly superior, to that PSU shaped object. Nothing below a Tier2, would be preferred, but your system specs are low enough, that if you absolutely had to, a Tier 3 would suffice. Evga 500b would be my pick in the Tier 3 listing.

 

[Mil_1]

That's within like .1% margin wise which is OK.

What you've likely got is a generic PSU actually manufactured by chieftec ,inwin or casecom with a 12v rail of under 30a

Meaning really its a 350-400w absolute max in real world terms.

Firms like Mac tech buy in bulk & rebrand as a 600w because the the 3v & 5v rails are likely over specced massively bulking the peak total power rating up to that 600w they use on the label

3/5v are hardly used in modern systems - big rails on those hark back to the early 2000's when they were needed.

22a+ on the 12v rail is enough for your components, there should be a label on the OSU with a voltage table listing.

Is it a good PSU - no.
Is it capable of running your system - yes.

You take your own risk with these generic rebrands mate - some people run systems for years with no problems , others could have a fail or fire within a couple of months - proper crapshoot in that respect

On the sticker it says 10 amps on the 12v

 

[madmatt30]

There will be a 12v1 & a 12v2 .
With 10a your system wouldn't be running.

Post a photo of the label & I could probably ascertain the actual real model from it.

 

[Mil_1]

There will be a 12v1 & a 12v2 .
With 10a your system wouldn't be running.

Post a photo of the label & I could probably ascertain the actual real model from it.

Sorry for taking too long to answer, was looking for a phone. Can't take photos, phone's busted, can't get hold of one, too late at night.
It reads
+5v 25A
+12v 10A
-12v 0.5A
+3v 14A
+5vsb 1.5A
Tomorrow, I'm riding my camel to get a new one, it's expensive and branded but mind figuring this out please?

 

[logainofhades]

That PSU isn't suitable to run any kind of graphics card.

 

[Ubrales]

The amperage of the 12V rail is only 10 Amps - too low for any add-on graphics card. Overall, this PSU is very inadequate for anything.

Get this one - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817207013&nm_mc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-PC&cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-PC-_-pla-_-Power+Supplies-_-N82E16817207013&gclid=CjwKEAjws7OwBRCn2Ome5tPP8gESJAAfopWseMOltO9yNblvDDpNxD6UXaIYlviKRulzluZ094BNyRoCCkjw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

[ko888]

If you calculate the maximum power based on the label specs you will only get 304.7 Watts. The 600W comes from the PSU's maximum AC input power from the wall outlet.

There's just no way that it is a 600W PSU.

 

[Mil_1]

If you calculate the maximum power based on the label specs you will only get 304.7 Watts. The 600W comes from the PSU's maximum AC input power from the wall outlet.

There's just no way that it is a 600W PSU.

Yes that's the one, and yes I'm from that shitland and thanks, I've got a new one

 

[madmatt30]

If you calculate the maximum power based on the label specs you will only get 304.7 Watts. The 600W comes from the PSU's maximum AC input power from the wall outlet.

There's just no way that it is a 600W PSU.

thats a good find mate - looked everywhere for it myself.

Been in the pc game a long long time,that is possibly the worst specced psu I have ever seen - absolute complete & utter trash - I wouldnt power a mobile phone with it.