Help me please

In general a great build, but...

1) 1000W PSU is way overkill for those parts. I err on the side of going high myself and see no need for going above 750W.

Gaming is probably roughly 400W. The reason for 750W to me is to keep the PSU fan speed low since they often ramp up around 50% load though there's some models that turn off the fan at 50% or even lower.

THIS should be a great PSU that has a great fan curve for minimal noise (use the "Fanless Mode" which then disables the fan below 30% load so in light usage it should be fanless and in gaming the fan will turn on):

Even when that fan turns on its pretty silent and doesn't start to even ramp up until roughly 60% load so probably it won't ramp up beyond the minimum speed by my estimates (400W/750W = 0.53) so again 750W is the maximum you need that can also really reduce fan noise a lot.

2) CPU cooler:
I'm not a fan of liquid cooling. You'll get a small boost to the CPU overclock by getting a better cooler but the default is pretty good. Normally I like air coolers like the Noctua... the best one I'd recommend for that build would be the Be Quiet Dark Rock 4.

I think this cooler looks good in a black/white build, should be fairly quiet but also avoid the potential pump noise or fan speed issues many liquid coolers can have.

Use the motherboard fan speed software to optimize the fan curve to be as quiet as possible while keeping within temp.

3) Why not go with an M.2 2280 version of that SSD to eliminate the cables?
Nov 9, 2018

Nov 9, 2018
Thank u so much for answering the PSU I got it on a deal it was used sorry I didn't say that but I went with that cooler just for the looks I do not want to over clock but I will look into the quiet dark rock heard good things from it

I'm just not a fan of AIO's since there are still plenty of pump or fan control issues. It will also eventually die but it could take five years or more.

A good air cooler though should never die aside from the fan which on a good cooler should last possibly ten years depending on usage. And then it's simple to replace.

It's my understanding that the cooler I recommended is good enough for a light overclock of that CPU which is to say roughly its maximum anyway of maybe 4.0 or 4.1GHz with 4.2GHz needing both a good CPU (silicon lottery as they vary) and a really good cooler which frankly I don't think is worth it for the small difference in frequency vs power draw. I believe that there's a sharp POWER INCREASE for Ryzen where you might say jump up over 25% power draw going from say 4.0 to 4.1GHz.

Anyway, when you build your PC here's the very quick points:
1) Google how to tweak the CPU and Memory settings (memory probably just the "XMP" profile) though I'd stick with CPU defaults to start.

2) run MEMTEST86 to test the DDR4 prior to installing Windows

3) update the BIOS to latest

Probably best to do BIOS update, then set memory to "XMP", then Memtest86, then install Windows and run a week or more then play around with CPU overclock, then restest with Memtest86.
*Here's what I wanted to show you:

"until we hit 4.0 GHz at 1.162V, which then required a jump of 0.08V to climb to 4.1GHz. We switched to a larger cooler at this point, as we were hitting 70 degrees and up on Tdie, which was causing instability and crashes in our Blender test. This means the data isn’t perfectly comparable, and so is represented by a dotted line. You can see that the curve gets incredibly steep at 4.2GHz, where we had to increase from 1.24 to 1.38V to hold stability with the larger cooler. Note that we could achieve this with lower voltage if tuning BCLK instead, but that’s one of our controls."

Remember it's a 2.5% increase to go from 4.0GHz to 4.1GHz so if you struggle to jump from one to the other or FAN noise is high under load at an acceptable temperature then just stay with the lower frequency.

My understanding is that likely you can get 4.1GHz on that half decent air cooler but 4.2GHz is probably unlikely or if you hit it would cause the fan noise to be too high without a more expensive cooler which again seems a waste just to get a couple more percent.
Last point... don't forget to use a tool like Acronis True Image to setup an automated BACKUP solution of the C-drive SSD to your HDD.

I use it and with High compression, Incremental and auto delete my roughly 100GB of C-drive data doesn't exceed 150GB of HDD space (for example about 50GB for the initial and several variable incrementals of between 5GB and 20GB adds up to less than 150GB).

If the SSD fails or gets corrupted just swap the SSD if need be, then boot to the Acronis Restore USB stick you can make, choose the last backup point and restore it to the SSD. It's pretty easy.

Restoring everything (Clean Windows install etc) though can be a very huge hassle.