- Mar 2, 2018
- 2
- 0
- 10
Hello everyone , Just one point before you read , Thanks for time you put to read & answer. answer as much of any of them as you can.
So, I'm building my first "Desktop" pc I've been waiting for like a long time for obvious reason of "ETH effect", anyway .. I'm possibly going for overclocking(no delid any soon till I get a kit) and also gaming
I'm just stuck with some basic issues:
cooling is cool and oc too !
My case has 2 fans at top (2x120) , 2 fans front (2x120) , and one another one at back (as you guessed already,120mm) . (No Optical Disk Drive~~> front=360mm)[Who needs ODD nowadays
]
make sure if I've got it right . I've been looking around at everywhere from Youtubers & Linus & Tomshardware, ... finally summarized that best of cooling --happens if I put radiator front as intake, and three others(2xtop,1xback) as exhaust fan ?
-airflow math: whole reviews I checked had 240intake with 240+140 exhaust(Ex>In) so 360intake (which has to be hot air because of rad in its way) VS 240+120exhaust in comparing with those real-world reviews seem a bit complicated,won't just whole that air gets inside gets stuck?and get the case hotter??! In=Ex doesn't seem right for best, if right, solution?
-do i need to change my stock fans? any suggestion with fans?can i change fan blades on my watercooler? mods and upgrades ?
-I've chosen a local liquidcooling AIO (called GREEN GLC-360EVO) same price with CM Master AirMaker 8 (there was a deal for Noctua NH-D15_performance not to be mentioned_too,which made it cheaper than both,but I might not be careful with case carrying and break my motherboard with the fan or being honest,I think they seriously need to reconsider on no-gamer-cool or whateves coolers ... nh-d15 reminds me of industrial fans)
specifications of liquid cooler has been inserted in bottom.
-based on stats and materials given by Green itself, how it compares to other 360coolers?such as Deepcool captain , Kraken x72 . H150iPro , ...
-What's the importance in comparing them theoretically? Rad material?rad size? tubes?pump?fans cfm amount?
-what about TIM? they're so various, I guess their thermal conductivity is their main factor, which made me thinking of really high "W/m.k."s such as Coollaboratory Liquid metal Ultra (metalpad was interesting too) or Grizzly conductonaut... I looked for 'em ,found 'em nowhere at all! shopping to delivery takes more than 45 days and It's no option for today.
- I saw a bunch of videos on Youtube , people complaining about CL liquid metal ultra that Its thermal changes were no as "dramatic" as it has to be,some said It works as it has to only when delidded ! (is it alright?metal+delidded?)
- just had another issue with "metal" being "paste" , how can I split the cpu and heatsink when metal's dried after a few months?? metal sounds really permanent ! does it?
-let's trust on Green's marketing,they've claimed "Green GT4-Premium" stays above deepcool-Z9 & thermalright-chillfactor3 in oc real test rankings,is it sufficient enough to do its job till I get Ultra+non-ALrad ? I'll be just easily cleaning it off with isopropyl alc. and replace, right?
-TIM applying tutorials mostly aimed for 3 methods I guess: 1-narrow line in middle of processor like an I , 2- pea sized in middle of processor , 3- pea in center then rubbing it with a piece of paper center-to-corner til It has the processor covered totally. 4. 3groups of 3 dots
which one you recommend?
+some said less is best they didn't even reach 50% of their processors covered (after setting and picking up the waterblock)(flattest mode) and some recommended covering as most as possible ,its least thickness and no spoil out of the "square" to prevent cooling misleading,again, which one?why? If It has to fill the micro-holes or whatever, then It has to be enough to cover it all !
Mobo: Z370 MSI GODLike gaming
CPU:Intel-i7 8700K
GPU:MSI 1080Ti Trio
SSD:Intel 5
RAMDR4 Crucial 4GB(temp)~up~>32GB G.skill Trident Z RGB
Case: Local
PSU:Antec HPC-850
in box Thermal Paste conductivity:5
CPU cooler: https://pasteboard.co/HlniEya.png
Thanks for your time
So, I'm building my first "Desktop" pc I've been waiting for like a long time for obvious reason of "ETH effect", anyway .. I'm possibly going for overclocking(no delid any soon till I get a kit) and also gaming
I'm just stuck with some basic issues:
cooling is cool and oc too !
My case has 2 fans at top (2x120) , 2 fans front (2x120) , and one another one at back (as you guessed already,120mm) . (No Optical Disk Drive~~> front=360mm)[Who needs ODD nowadays
]make sure if I've got it right . I've been looking around at everywhere from Youtubers & Linus & Tomshardware, ... finally summarized that best of cooling --happens if I put radiator front as intake, and three others(2xtop,1xback) as exhaust fan ?
-airflow math: whole reviews I checked had 240intake with 240+140 exhaust(Ex>In) so 360intake (which has to be hot air because of rad in its way) VS 240+120exhaust in comparing with those real-world reviews seem a bit complicated,won't just whole that air gets inside gets stuck?and get the case hotter??! In=Ex doesn't seem right for best, if right, solution?
-do i need to change my stock fans? any suggestion with fans?can i change fan blades on my watercooler? mods and upgrades ?
-I've chosen a local liquidcooling AIO (called GREEN GLC-360EVO) same price with CM Master AirMaker 8 (there was a deal for Noctua NH-D15_performance not to be mentioned_too,which made it cheaper than both,but I might not be careful with case carrying and break my motherboard with the fan or being honest,I think they seriously need to reconsider on no-gamer-cool or whateves coolers ... nh-d15 reminds me of industrial fans)
specifications of liquid cooler has been inserted in bottom.
-based on stats and materials given by Green itself, how it compares to other 360coolers?such as Deepcool captain , Kraken x72 . H150iPro , ...
-What's the importance in comparing them theoretically? Rad material?rad size? tubes?pump?fans cfm amount?
-what about TIM? they're so various, I guess their thermal conductivity is their main factor, which made me thinking of really high "W/m.k."s such as Coollaboratory Liquid metal Ultra (metalpad was interesting too) or Grizzly conductonaut... I looked for 'em ,found 'em nowhere at all! shopping to delivery takes more than 45 days and It's no option for today.
- I saw a bunch of videos on Youtube , people complaining about CL liquid metal ultra that Its thermal changes were no as "dramatic" as it has to be,some said It works as it has to only when delidded ! (is it alright?metal+delidded?)
- just had another issue with "metal" being "paste" , how can I split the cpu and heatsink when metal's dried after a few months?? metal sounds really permanent ! does it?
-let's trust on Green's marketing,they've claimed "Green GT4-Premium" stays above deepcool-Z9 & thermalright-chillfactor3 in oc real test rankings,is it sufficient enough to do its job till I get Ultra+non-ALrad ? I'll be just easily cleaning it off with isopropyl alc. and replace, right?
-TIM applying tutorials mostly aimed for 3 methods I guess: 1-narrow line in middle of processor like an I , 2- pea sized in middle of processor , 3- pea in center then rubbing it with a piece of paper center-to-corner til It has the processor covered totally. 4. 3groups of 3 dots
which one you recommend?
+some said less is best they didn't even reach 50% of their processors covered (after setting and picking up the waterblock)(flattest mode) and some recommended covering as most as possible ,its least thickness and no spoil out of the "square" to prevent cooling misleading,again, which one?why? If It has to fill the micro-holes or whatever, then It has to be enough to cover it all !
Mobo: Z370 MSI GODLike gaming
CPU:Intel-i7 8700K
GPU:MSI 1080Ti Trio
SSD:Intel 5
RAM
DR4 Crucial 4GB(temp)~up~>32GB G.skill Trident Z RGBCase: Local
PSU:Antec HPC-850
in box Thermal Paste conductivity:5
CPU cooler: https://pasteboard.co/HlniEya.png
Thanks for your time
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