Question help p6t v2 deluxe not in the win 10 compatibility

anaturelover

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hi
I have still win 7 and want win 10. but asus says it is not compatible.
at the same time some people seems to maybe have make it work
can you help me
her is my rig

megahelm prolimatech cooler for socket 1336

I have 12 gig ram 12.0GB Triple-Channel DDR3 @ 534MHz (8-7-7-20)

896-P3-1255-AR - eVGA GTX 260 CORE 216 55NM 576MHZ 896MB 1.998GHZ GDDR3 PCI-E 2XDVI-I HDTV OUT

P6T DELUXE V2 - ASUS P6T DELUXE V2 S.1366 INT X58/ICH10R ATX 3PCIE X16,6D.DDR3-1600MHZ FSP WIFI-AP GBLAN

BX80601920 - INTEL CORE I7-920 2.66GHZ 8MB CACHE LGA-1366 4.8GT QPI Intel Core i7 920 @ 2.67GHz 50 °C Bloomfield 45nm Technology

HD103UJ - SAMSUNG SPINPOINT F1 HD103UJ 1TB SATA 3G 7200 RPM 32MB CACHE

Second hdd western digital 500 gb sata 32mb cache 7200rpm WD5002AAEX-00Z3A0
 

Darkbreeze

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Neither ASUS nor Intel have a Windows 10 chipset driver available for the X58 chipset OR that motherboard model. That leaves the only option as being whether Microsoft has a generic all purpose chipset driver for it, which they might, but there are no guarantees. You'd simply have to try it. And that doesn't necessarily mean you are going to find Windows 10 compatible drivers for the rest of the hardware such as the onboard audio, network adapters or secondary storage controllers, but again, Windows MIGHT have drivers for those as well. The only way to KNOW for sure, is to try.

I've upgraded older systems than yours to Windows 10 so it's certainly possible. Best bet is to make a backup using Macrium Reflect or Acronis true image, or another image backup utility, of your current OS installation, so that you can revert to it if necessary, and then try the upgrade to see if it works out or whether you have problems. If you have problems, simply restore your backup.

Be sure to do a bit of research on that FIRST, so that you know what you are doing BEFORE you start doing it. Don't get halfway through it and then realize you don't know WTF you are doing. LOL. That is the wrong time to come to that realization because by then it's a little too late unless you are willing and able to simply do a clean install of Windows 7 if that happens.
 

anaturelover

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Darkbreeze

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That doesn't tell me anything. It's just saying that he's a Windows 10 user and then it give his system specs. Nothing more. As for the answer that was selected as the best answer in that topic, it really makes no sense and it should never have to be that complicated to where you need to run command line instructions just to get Windows 10 to install. If you do, then it's going to be nothing but pure trouble. The bottom line is, if you cannot easily install or upgrade to Windows 10, which you can figure out by TRYING to do so, then any hardware that you add later on which is going to be ONLY Windows 10 compatible from this point forward anyhow, is probably not going to work with your old hardware anyhow.

I'd recommend that IF you are inclined, try the upgrade. If it works, then attach the Windows 10 digital entitlement to a Microsoft account that is in your name, and then do a clean install. You can simply ride on the upgrade but most people have problems after only doing an upgrade and not doing a clean install. In fact, if you have an extra drive you can try simply doing a clean install from the start and not even have to mess with your current Windows installation on your current drive. Just unplug it, plug a different drive in, install Windows 10 to that drive and take it for a test drive.


 

anaturelover

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hum you are inclined, try the upgrade. If it works, then attach the Windows 10 digital entitlement to a Microsoft account that is in your name, and then do a clean install.
what do you mean by that ? eng is my second language so could you rephrase?

this white beard man seems to have found a trick im not sure what do you think
 

Darkbreeze

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Do you have a secondary drive that you can either use to backup your current Windows 7 installation TO, or use to install Windows 10 ONTO, in order to try it out and see if it will work or not?

Because if you don't, all of this is pointless anyhow. You really don't want to just go start upgrading the only copy of Windows you have with no backup and no place to back up TO, because if something goes wrong, then you are sh!% out of luck.
 

anaturelover

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on hdd 1 i have win 7
on hdd 1 have a linux grub not working os i want to get rid of

if i install win10 on hdd2 does that risk of erasing the win7 in hdd1?

just to be sure , i have also an external hdd and maybe i could do a win7 image and store it there. my goal , lets say im unlucky and hdd1 and 2 mess up i want to be able tu boot my working win7 from external and or maybe place the image back on the hdd1

lets say im runinng win 7 on hdd1 and i do plug the external hdd (that would eventually hold the image) will the external try to boot or enter in conflict or it will just show the image as being another file present on itself?
 

Darkbreeze

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No, if you have a Windows installation on HDD 1, and you have a second HDD, then HDD 1 should NOT be connected to the system ANYHOW when you install on HDD 2 so how could it possibly do anything to HDD 1?

Are you saying you DO have a HDD1 and HDD 2 and that you COULD use HDD 2 for a test run of Windows 10 to see if it's going to work ok or not? Because that would REALLY be the way to go so you don't risk making any changes to HDD 1 until you are sure it's going to work.

As I said, be sure to COMPLETELY disconnect HDD 1 from the motherboard AND connect HDD 2 to the motherboard where HDD 1 WAS connected, usually that is the SATA 0 header. If there IS a SATA 0 header on the motherboard, then that is where the primary OS drive should be connected normally. If there is not, then SATA 1 should usually be used.
 

anaturelover

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hum are you saying that if i have win 7 on hdd1 and want win10 on hdd2 i would have to physically unplug the sata cords?

if that is so since i ll download mediatool on a usbkey and install on hdd2, do i have to unplug hdd1 before using usb filled with media creation tool?
 

Darkbreeze

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Yes, the ONLY drives that should be connected while you do the installation should be the hard drive you are trying to install Windows ON and the USB drive you are installing Windows FROM. That's it. No other drives, NONE, AT ALL, should be connected while you are installing Windows.

If you read my guide it will take you through it, step by EVERY SINGLE step.

 
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anaturelover

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hi o my good so much time and work to give to my pc while i give so little to myself hahaha. I guess i ll take my time to take care of myself too.
tx for the link and having prepered what seems to be a detailed guide.

i was wondering, i already checked at my mobo drawing from manual and i could not understant wich where the one to 6 sata plug slut. is this a probleme. at tem moment i guess they are plugged wherever.

I juste finished macrium image 159 gig to 80 gig or so. Do i need to validate or test if this image is valid correctly done ?
 

anaturelover

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hi yea it s a strange post
i was saying that my hdd are plugged anywere and that i cannot see a zero usb port https://www.cjoint.com/c/JBtdertuyFH
does it really make a difference to be in slut 0 or 1 instead of 23456?

I did an image of my win 160 gig7 partition with cranium and the image resulting on the external disk is like 85 gig do i need to validate that image ? then i ll use the usb i bought to install the creation tool
 

Darkbreeze

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It might. Some boards have primary and secondary storage controllers, and the secondary storage controllers are generally moderately slower than the primary ones. Not all boards are this way, even less so these days, but on a board as old as yours it's pretty much a certainty so you want to make sure you have the drives connected to the lowest numbered SATA headers. If those are 0 and 1, or 1 and 2, then those are the ones you want to use first. It IS rather important especially on an older motherboard. Heck, some of those older boards even had only 2 to maybe 4 SATA headers that were SATA 3.0 and the rest were all much slower SATA 2.0 headers. Same thing for even older boards with only 1.0 and 2.0 headers.
 

anaturelover

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on this site the drawing indicates 1 and 2 one on top of each other .when i opened my pc concretely one port si closer to my body than the other witch is kind of hidden back, closer to the mother board, how to know which one is one an wich is no two?
 

Darkbreeze

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So, SATA 1-6 are all Intel SATA 3.0 headers (Red), so any of those ones are fine to use. The marvel headers, which are for the PATA and eSATA connections, are located elsewhere on the board and are not relevant to this discussion. Use any of those six headers freely.
 

anaturelover

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So, SATA 1-6 are all Intel SATA 3.0 headers (Red), so any of those ones are fine to use. The marvel headers, which are for the PATA and eSATA connections, are located elsewhere on the board and are not relevant to this discussion. Use any of those six headers freely.
i beleive they are usb2 not usb3
 

anaturelover

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just bought brand new easy store 32 gb wD usbkey. do i have to format? in what format?
tx
---
i do have the win7 key number for my ultimate win7, will i be asked this key when win10 installation?
 
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86zx

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I had a p6t with a i7 920 works totally fine with windows 10 don’t worry about it. I’ve had close to 10 x58 systems all with windows 10 no issues
 

Darkbreeze

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And I'm sure you'll be happy to run right over to his house and fix the situation when he needs to recovery his Windows 7 installation because he took that advice as gospel and upgraded or did a clean install with no backup of the existing Windows 7 image right? All it takes is ONE piece of hardware that some manufacturer felt they had no need to supply a Windows 10 driver for but that the OP NEEDS to have working with this system, for the whole works to be a big waste of time or worse if no driver or work around can be found to allow that hardware to work with the new OS and believe me, we've seen PLENTY of those kinds of situations.

There is often a lot more involved than just the chipset, storage controller, audio and network adapter drivers. I'm not saying it won't work, because obviously I've already recommended making the effort, but to simply say "it will work no problem, you don't have to worry about anything", is highly irresponsible.

And that's assuming, which we will for now anyhow, that what you say about having that board or about having a number of x58 systems, is even factual. Let's face it, you wouldn't be the first troll to walk across that bridge trying to get somebody to go over the side.
 

86zx

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And I'm sure you'll be happy to run right over to his house and fix the situation when he needs to recovery his Windows 7 installation because he took that advice as gospel and upgraded or did a clean install with no backup of the existing Windows 7 image right? All it takes is ONE piece of hardware that some manufacturer felt they had no need to supply a Windows 10 driver for but that the OP NEEDS to have working with this system, for the whole works to be a big waste of time or worse if no driver or work around can be found to allow that hardware to work with the new OS and believe me, we've seen PLENTY of those kinds of situations.

There is often a lot more involved than just the chipset, storage controller, audio and network adapter drivers. I'm not saying it won't work, because obviously I've already recommended making the effort, but to simply say "it will work no problem, you don't have to worry about anything", is highly irresponsible.

And that's assuming, which we will for now anyhow, that what you say about having that board or about having a number of x58 systems, is even factual. Let's face it, you wouldn't be the first troll to walk across that bridge trying to get somebody to go over the side.
Wow thanks lol I have no need for being a petty troll what would I get out of that? Litteraly nothing. I’m stating my experiences I’ve even used windows 10 on pentium 4 systems and have had no issues other than the fact that a pentium 4 is not powerful enough to run basicly anything. Yes it would be a better idea to use a spare drive for it but it’s highly likely it will work. I don’t remember if my p6t was a deluxe but it is working totally fine with windows 10 and it has a Xeon x5660 in it at 4.2ghz. I personally don’t follow what manufacturers say I go to local thrift shops and get parts really cheap and build systems of all kinds and test them out that’s what I do for fun I’m just stating my experiences. My dell t7500 doesn’t technically support windows 10. It works fine other than it won’t sleep but that never bothered me. I’m fairly certain that was because of the sas controller though
 
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Darkbreeze

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And dual boot is a thing that can be done for testing . Simply instal windows 10 on a new partition on the hard drive
It's not that simple here either. You can't just "install windows on a new partition" and away you go. If you could, things like Rufus wouldn't exist. You have to have a way to tell the Windows boot manager and the BIOS/UEFI which windows you want to boot to. There are even more assumptions and factual errors in these two posts than in the last two, which makes me more, not less, inclined to believe that you are simply throwing crap at the wall to see what sticks and have little practical knowledge in this area at all.

But whatever, thanks for sharing your experiences, if in fact that's what they are. It is not a matter of whether Windows 10 can run a given CPU or not. It is a matter of whether the motherboard and other hardware manufacturers of those old hardwares, or Microshaft, have decided to provide drivers for that old hardware. If you can't use the board because there are no chipset, storage controller, network adapter or audio drivers available, or you have other hardware that has never seen Windows 10 drivers released for it, then it doesn't matter what CPU we are talking about. Two separate systems, both using the same CPU, might not both be able to be used with Windows 10 based solely on driver support.
 

86zx

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It's not that simple here either. You can't just "install windows on a new partition" and away you go. If you could, things like Rufus wouldn't exist. You have to have a way to tell the Windows boot manager and the BIOS/UEFI which windows you want to boot to. There are even more assumptions and factual errors in these two posts than in the last two, which makes me more, not less, inclined to believe that you are simply throwing crap at the wall to see what sticks and have little practical knowledge in this area at all.

But whatever, thanks for sharing your experiences, if in fact that's what they are. It is not a matter of whether Windows 10 can run a given CPU or not. It is a matter of whether the motherboard and other hardware manufacturers of those old hardwares, or Microshaft, have decided to provide drivers for that old hardware. If you can't use the board because there are no chipset, storage controller, network adapter or audio drivers available, or you have other hardware that has never seen Windows 10 drivers released for it, then it doesn't matter what CPU we are talking about. Two separate systems, both using the same CPU, might not both be able to be used with Windows 10 based solely on driver support.
Have you not dual booted on partitions before? And windows 10 has compatibility modes for things I have some graphics cards that don’t strictly support windows 10 and they work. Not everything is by the book you may not be willing to try things but I am and that’s what I share here. In the end it’s always up to the person weather they wanna take a leap of faith.
 

86zx

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Doing further reasearch It looks like none of the p6t motherboards have driver support beyond windows 8 and seeing as the one I had works just fine to me says that windows 10 is using it in a compatibility type mode and it doesn’t seem to reduce performance as I used to use it for gaming all the time. Sure it’s not gonna be able to contend with any halfway decent modern cpu but it’s plenty for gaming at 60 fps is most games
 

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