Question Help upgrading GPU for Ultrawide Curved Monitor ?

[DouggieBuggyBoo]

I recently upgraded my monitor, knowing that I would also need to upgrade my graphics card. Now I'm trying to determine both which GPU to get, but also if I need to upgrade anything else (ie, power supply, fans, etc). I briefly tested the monitor with my current GPU and it was (I think) overheating and shutting down my whole PC, so I'm conscious of getting too hot.

Monitor:

Dell Curved Gaming, 34 Inch Curved Monitor with 144Hz Refresh Rate, WQHD (3440 x 1440) Display, Black - S3422DWG​

APPROXIMATE PURCHASE DATE: Flexible BUDGET RANGE: Flexible, but hoping for <$700 After Rebates

USAGE FROM MOST TO LEAST IMPORTANT: Gaming. Baldur's Gate 3 and Cyberpunk 2099 are the most taxing games I'm playing in the near future. I also use it for remote work, but not graphically demanding work.

CURRENT GPU AND POWER SUPPLY: AMD Radeon RX 5600 XT - 6GB (VR-Ready). 600 Watt - High Power - 80 PLUS Gold Certified - FREE Upgrade to 600 Watt - Thermaltake Smart Series - 80 PLUS Gold (That seems a bit like gibberish, but that's the description from the specs when I bought the PC).

OTHER RELEVANT SYSTEM SPECS:
Case: iBUYPOWER Slate 4 Tempered Glass ARGB Gaming Case
Processor: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 Processor (6X 3.6GHz/32MB L3 Cache)
Motherboard: GIGABYTE B550 GAMING X - ARGB Header (2), USB 3.2 Ports (4 Type-A), M.2 Slot (2)
Memory: 16 GB [8 GB X2] DDR4-3000 Memory Module - Certified Major Brand Gaming Memory [Free Upgrade to 16GB DDR4-3200 XPG D41 RGB]
Video Card: AMD Radeon RX 5600 XT - 6GB (VR-Ready)
Power Supply: 600 Watt - High Power - 80 PLUS Gold Certified - FREE Upgrade to 600 Watt - Thermaltake Smart Series - 80 PLUS Gold
Processor Cooling: iBUYPOWER 120mm Addressable RGB Liquid Cooling System - Black
Primary Storage: 500GB WD Blue SN550 M.2 PCIe NVMe SSD -- Read: 2400MB/s; Write: 1750MB/s
Case Fans: Default Case Fan


PREFERRED WEBSITE(S) FOR PARTS: No preference. I'm familiar with newegg.com and ibuypower.com. COUNTRY OF ORIGIN: United States

If you do not know of a store for your country this thread will point you in the right direction: http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/id-1643019/guide-international-users-links-part-stores.html

PARTS PREFERENCES: none

OVERCLOCKING: No SLI OR CROSSFIRE: No

MONITOR RESOLUTION: 3440x1440

ADDITIONAL COMMENTS: I'm not really interested in fiddling with the system to get the best possible performance. I'm primarily interested in plugging in and playing. If I can do so with high graphic settings, that's great, but I'm not too concerned with FPS. (though that's maybe because I don't know what I'm missing )

 

[Aeacus]

If I can do so with high graphic settings, that's great, but I'm not too concerned with FPS. (though that's maybe because I don't know what I'm missing )

2K ultrawide is almost 4K. High settings can be done, but the FPS on High settings is the crucial part. If you want to fully utilize the 144 Hz refresh rate of your monitor, then this means 144 FPS.

Flexible, but hoping for <$700 After Rebates

At this budget and IF you want to get 144 FPS @ 2K ultrawide with High/Ultra settings - doesn't happen. Especially since you need to get new PSU as well.

Cost aside;
RTX 4080 Super can push ~140FPS on 2K and ~90FPS on 4K. So, ~120FPS on 2K ultrawide.
If you enable Ray Tracing as well, then RTX 4080 Super can push ~87FPS on 2K and ~44FPS on 4K. So, ~60FPS on 2K ultrawide.

If Ray Tracing is important to you, then only GPU that can get close, while still falling short, is RTX 4090 (best there is, currently).
RTX 4090, with Ray Tracing, can push ~113FPS on 2K and ~61FPS on 4K. So, ~80FPS on 2K ultrawide.

FPS metric source: https://www.tomshardware.com/pc-components/gpus/nvidia-geforce-rtx-4080-super-review/2

RTX 4080 Super can do what you like, but it requires 1kW (1000W) PSU to power it. And not some cheap PSU, but instead good quality one.

Price wise, PSU + GPU = this;

PCPartPicker Part List

Video Card: Asus TUF GAMING GeForce RTX 4080 SUPER 16 GB Video Card ($999.99 @ ASUS)
Power Supply: SeaSonic FOCUS GX-1000 ATX 3.0 1000 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($199.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $1199.98

Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2024-02-07 01:18 EST-0500

Note: included cheapest RTX 4080 Super and cheapest good quality ATX 3.0 PSU.

That being said, ~$700 budget can't be done, IF you want High/Ultra settings @ 2K ultrawide with 144 FPS. Either increase your budget or lower your expectations.

I briefly tested the monitor with my current GPU and it was (I think) overheating and shutting down my whole PC, so I'm conscious of getting too hot.

Case: iBUYPOWER Slate 4 Tempered Glass ARGB Gaming Case

That's a fishbowl. I'd get new PC case, rather than trying to work with this poorly designed PC case. Sure, it has looks, but which is more important; PC looking good or PC working good?

 

[DouggieBuggyBoo]

2K ultrawide is almost 4K. High settings can be done, but the FPS on High settings is the crucial part. If you want to fully utilize the 144 Hz refresh rate of your monitor, then this means 144 FPS.


At this budget and IF you want to get 144 FPS @ 2K ultrawide with High/Ultra settings - doesn't happen. Especially since you need to get new PSU as well.

Cost aside;
RTX 4080 Super can push ~140FPS on 2K and ~90FPS on 4K. So, ~120FPS on 2K ultrawide.
If you enable Ray Tracing as well, then RTX 4080 Super can push ~87FPS on 2K and ~44FPS on 4K. So, ~60FPS on 2K ultrawide.

If Ray Tracing is important to you, then only GPU that can get close, while still falling short, is RTX 4090 (best there is, currently).
RTX 4090, with Ray Tracing, can push ~113FPS on 2K and ~61FPS on 4K. So, ~80FPS on 2K ultrawide.

FPS metric source: https://www.tomshardware.com/pc-components/gpus/nvidia-geforce-rtx-4080-super-review/2

RTX 4080 Super can do what you like, but it requires 1kW (1000W) PSU to power it. And not some cheap PSU, but instead good quality one.

Price wise, PSU + GPU = this;

PCPartPicker Part List

Video Card: Asus TUF GAMING GeForce RTX 4080 SUPER 16 GB Video Card ($999.99 @ ASUS)
Power Supply: SeaSonic FOCUS GX-1000 ATX 3.0 1000 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($199.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $1199.98

Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2024-02-07 01:18 EST-0500

Note: included cheapest RTX 4080 Super and cheapest good quality ATX 3.0 PSU.

That being said, ~$700 budget can't be done, IF you want High/Ultra settings @ 2K ultrawide with 144 FPS. Either increase your budget or lower your expectations.


That's a fishbowl. I'd get new PC case, rather than trying to work with this poorly designed PC case. Sure, it has looks, but which is more important; PC looking good or PC working good?

Thanks for the thorough response! As I mentioned, I'm not too worried about FPS, but it's probably better to err on the side of a higher quality GPU now so I'm not wanting to replace it again in 2 years.

I'm also open to replacing the case - do you have a recommendation? Is it poorly designed for temperature regulation or something else?

And this feels like a basic question, but do I need to worry about the case I get not fitting the various pieces?

 

[Aeacus]

As I mentioned, I'm not too worried about FPS, but it's probably better to err on the side of a higher quality GPU now so I'm not wanting to replace it again in 2 years.

2K ultrawide has lots of pixels and needs quite a beefy GPU for comfortable gameplay (60 FPS). Now, if you factor in the staying relative as well, then the beefier GPU you get, the more you can get out of it, before it's performance drops too low for comfort.

At current date, as low as RTX 4070, without Ray Tracing, is able to push ~75FPS on 2K ultrawide, but it won't fare well in the future. This would be the cheapest option since you'd only need to get new 650W PSU with this one. But in 2 years time, GPU upgrade would be in order. Unless you reduce in-game graphics from High to Medium to maintain ~60FPS. And then from Medium to Low, to get a bit more out of the GPU.

Now, i don't know the future in gaming and how taxing the new games would be on GPUs, but based on how games have evolved thus far, and considering your monitor, RTX 4080 Super would last you 4-6 years, if you use it without Ray Tracing. Even more if you're willing to reduce in-game graphics.

I'm also open to replacing the case - do you have a recommendation? Is it poorly designed for temperature regulation or something else?

Your current PC case has solid front panel (TG), which will hinder the intake airflow considerably. Currently, you'd need high static pressure fans to pull in enough fresh air from the front, but my guess is that your unicorn puke fans don't have enough static pressure (ARGB fans usually don't), thus, your PC overheats due to lack of cooling.

For new PC case, i suggest getting any PC case that has front grille/mesh, rather than solid panel. Now, since choosing a PC case is personal choice, i can't tell you which one to go for. I can only suggest, but you need to pick the one you like the most (since you'd be looking that PC case on daily basis, and not me).

And this feels like a basic question, but do I need to worry about the case I get not fitting the various pieces?

Yes, there are some component clearances to be considered. Those few include:
* MoBo size - yours is ATX.
* CPU cooler height - you have 120mm rad AIO, which i'd also replace. (More on that below.)
* PSU length - depending which PSU you go for, those range from 140mm to 210mm.

About CPU coolers;
As far as AIOs vs air coolers go, you won't gain any cooling performance if you go with AIO over air cooler since both are cooled by ambient air.
For equal cooling performance between AIOs and air coolers, rad needs to be 240mm or 280mm. Smaller rads: 120mm and 140mm are almost always outperformed by mid-sized air coolers. Single slot rads are good in mini-ITX builds where you don't have enough CPU cooler clearance to install mid-sized CPU air cooler.

Here are the positive sides of both (air and AIO) CPU cooling methods;

Pros of air coolers:
less cost
less maintenance
less noise
far longer longevity
no leakage risks
doesn't take up case fan slots
additional cooling for the RAM
CPU cools down faster after heavy heat output

Pros of AIOs:
no RAM clearance issues*
no CPU clearance issues
CPU takes longer time to heat up during heavy heat output (about 30 mins)
* on some cases, top mounted rad can give RAM clearance issues

While how the CPU cooler looks inside the PC depends on a person. Some people prefer to see small AIO pump in the middle of their MoBo with tubing going to the rad while others prefer to see big heatsink with fans in the middle of their MoBo.

Main difference between AIO and air cooler is that with AIO, you'll get more noise at a higher cost while cooling performance remains the same.
Here's also one good article for you to read where former king of air coolers (Noctua NH-D15) was put against 5x high-end AIOs, including former king of AIOs (NZXT x61 Kraken),
link: http://www.relaxedtech.com/reviews/noctua/nh-d15-versus-closed-loop-liquid-coolers/1

Personally, i'd go with air coolers every day of the week. With same cooling performance, the pros of air coolers outweigh the pros of AIOs considerably. While, for me, the 3 main pros would be:
1. Less noise.
Since i like my PC to be quiet, i can't stand the loud noise AIO makes. Also, when air gets trapped inside the AIO (some AIOs are more prone to this than others), there's additional noise coming from inside the pump.
2. Longevity.
Cheaper AIOs usually last 2-3 years and high-end ones 4-5 years before you need to replace it. While with air coolers, their life expectancy is basically unlimited. Only thing that can go bad on an air cooler is the fan on it. If the fan dies, your CPU still has cooling in form of a big heatsink. Also, new 120mm or 140mm fan doesn't cost much and it's easy to replace one. While with AIOs, the main thing that usually goes bad is the pump itself. And when that happens, your CPU has no cooling whatsoever. Since you can't replace pump on an AIO, you need to buy whole new AIO to replace the old one out.
3. No leakage risks.
Since there's liquid circling inside the AIO, there is always a risk that your AIO can leak. While it's rare, it has happened. It's well known fact that liquids and electronics don't mix.


That being said, and since you have 120mm rad, it isn't enough to cool your CPU. Nor having it is justified either, since you do not have mini-ITX build, where you can't put proper air cooler in.
With this, i suggest that you also replace your CPU cooler. Currently the best one, in terms of performance, price and value, is: Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE,
pcpp: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/hY...sassin-120-se-6617-cfm-cpu-cooler-pa120-se-d3

It is the new king of air coolers, by outperforming previous king, Noctua NH-D15, while costing considerably less.

And now, we can talk about PC case. If you go with Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE, then this CPU cooler is 155mm tall. Meaning that new PC case must have at least 155mm of CPU cooler clearance, where more would be preferred.

With this, and to keep as close to the budget as possible, it would be like so:
PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor (Purchased For $0.00)
CPU Cooler: Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler ($33.90 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Gigabyte B550 GAMING X ATX AM4 Motherboard (Purchased For $0.00)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 CL16 Memory (Purchased For $0.00)
Storage: Western Digital Blue SN550 500 GB M.2-2280 PCIe 3.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive (Purchased For $0.00)
Video Card: Asus DUAL OC GeForce RTX 4070 12 GB Video Card ($529.99 @ B&H)
Case: Fractal Design Focus G ATX Mid Tower Case ($44.98 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: SeaSonic VERTEX GX-750 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($162.51 @ Amazon)
Total: $771.38

Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2024-02-09 03:15 EST-0500

Note: What you already have, i marked as "Purchased". Don't know the exact RAM you have, so, put in the closest one as a placeholder.

Few words.

Put in king of air coolers for far better CPU cooling than what you currently have.

This build currently has RTX 4070 in it, which is cheapest option, that will give you ~75FPS, at current date, without Ray Tracing, on your 2K ultrawide monitor with High/Ultra settings. But it may not hold up for long, requiring you to upgrade the GPU in few years time.

So, if you have more funds for GPU, then this current build can sustain up to RTX 4070 Ti Super. Meaning that you do not need to replace the Seasonic Vertex GX-750 i put in. RTX 4070 Ti Super price starts at $800.
But if you go with RTX 4080 or RTX 4080 Super, then you need 1000W PSU. Like the Seasonic Focus GX-1000 ATX 3.0 i linked earlier.
And RTX 4090 needs at least 1200W PSU, while 1600W PSU is preferred.

PC case is one possible option to choose from. Fractal Design Focus G has good design in terms of airflow, since it has front mesh panel. Now, it doesn't have TG side panel, instead acrylic side panel. So, the PC case isn't that "modern/trendy" as current PC cases are, but it is practical. Especially since it also has 5.25" external bay, which i, personally, find very versatile.

Like i said, choosing a PC case is personal choice. Here, i suggest that you use the pcpp link for the whole build, to see it in the pcpp site,
link: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/yX3xN6

Once there, top right side, click on the "Edit This Part List" button. Pcpp then "unlocks" the parts, so you can add/remove/replace all and any parts. Then, click on the "Case" name, just left of the Fractal Design Focus G. You'll be shown a new page with ALL PC cases that are compatible with the hardware already in the parts list, while also factoring in all the clearances (CPU cooler clearance, PSU length, GPU length etc). From that list, you can choose a better or more suited PC case for you. Many PC cases also display the image of them. I suggest that you pick the PC case that has front mesh panel.

Here are few mesh front panel cases, that are compatible with current parts list,
link: https://pcpartpicker.com/products/compare/BfPKHx,nL7v6h,gQWBD3,HRH7YJ/

 

[DouggieBuggyBoo]

Thanks again for such helpful responses! I think I can handle the higher budget, though I think I'll probably hold off on the RTX 4080 super until it comes back in stock. Paying an extra $600 for the reseller markup doesn't feel good.

Would there be any issue with using the new power supply, cooler, and case with my current GPU until the new one becomes available?

 

[geofelt]

Pre built pc's are not designed to be upgraded.
The vendor installs only the minimal parts required to run the initial configuration.

I applaud the upgrade to a larger/wider/higher resolution monitor.
It will make gaming more immersive.

Some games are graphics limited like fast action shooters.
Others are cpu core speed limited like strategy, sims, and mmo.
Multiplayer tends to like many threads.

You need to find out which.
------------------------------------------------------------
To help clarify your CPU/GPU options, run these two tests:

a) Run YOUR games, but lower your resolution and eye candy.
This makes the graphics card loaf a bit.
If your FPS increases, it indicates that your cpu is strong enough to drive a better graphics configuration.
If your FPS stays the same, you are likely more cpu limited.

b) Limit your cpu, either by reducing the OC, or, in windows power management, limit the maximum cpu% to something like 70%.
Go to control panel/power options/change plan settings/change advanced power settings/processor power management/maximum processor state/
This will simulate what a lack of cpu power will do.
Conversely what a 30% improvement in core speed might do.

Assuming that a gpu upgrade is, indeed in order, you need to plan on a higher capacity power supply to support it.
A psu with a wattage ending in 00 is a red flag, typical of older/lesser units.
You should probably be looking at a psu in the 850w range and with the quality indicated by a 10 year waranty.

Tom's gpu hiererachy chart gives you approximate performance tiers.
https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/gpu-hierarchy,4388.html
I think you should be looking at the 7700/7800XT class.

A 120mm aio cooler is virtually useless. It is sold for marketing and to those who want rgb "bling"
The cooling capacity will not equal a good $50 twin tower air cooler.

If you need a cpu upgrade, pay attention to the single thread performance. That is what games need most.
Run the cpu-Z bench on your 3600 and look at the single thread performance rating.
You should see a score of about 515:
https://valid.x86.fr/bench/ptjz47

 

[Aeacus]

Would there be any issue with using the new power supply, cooler, and case with my current GPU until the new one becomes available?

No, no issue at all. So, you can freely go with new PC case, CPU cooler and PSU and wait until the new GPU you want comes in stock, so you can buy it at later date.

If you plan to go with RTX 4080 or Super, do get 1000W PSU for it. Seasonic Focus GX-1000 ATX 3.0 i linked above is good quality and also has dedicated cable for +12VHPWR connector, all RTX 40-series GPUs use, so, you don't need to use a power adapter (which is included with GPU).

 

[thestryker]

1000W PSU is overkill unless you plan on jumping to a 450W+ GPU. Whatever video card you plan on buying just look up the manufacturer's recommendation. Most, if not all, of the 4080 SUPER manufacturers recommend 850W and any card below that would be less.

3440x1440 is ~35% more pixels than 2560x1440 whereas 4k is 125% more pixels than 2560x1440 so while it's more demanding than 1440p it's nowhere near 4k. What it comes down to is do you want to run maximum refresh rate or not. In a super demanding game like CP 2077 even a 4090 will not get you 144 FPS unless you turn down settings (and this is before we get to ray tracing).

A 4070 SUPER would get you good performance in pretty much everything without breaking the bank. The only downside to it is the 12GB VRAM, but I doubt that will be much of an issue at 3440x1440.

Since you'd need to buy a new PSU period getting an 850W would be a good idea no matter what card you end up with now. ATX 3.0 PSU would also be a good idea though not mandatory.

A great thorough review site: https://hwbusters.com/best_picks/best-atx-v3-0-pcie-5-0-ready-psus-picks-2023-hardware-busters/
A good resource for what to avoid: https://cultists.network/140/psu-tier-list/

 

[Aeacus]

A good resource for what to avoid: https://cultists.network/140/psu-tier-list/

That is a poor source of info, since that list is biased and doesn't accurately show info about PSUs.

E.g that biased list doesn't include any Seasonic ATX 3.0 PSUs, despite there being several (Focus ATX 3.0, Vertex and PRIME ATX 3.0) with an excuse that no reviews exist.
Well, reviews do exist,
Vertex: https://hwbusters.com/psus/seasonic-vertex-gx-1200-psu-review/
PRIME ATX 3.0: https://hwbusters.com/psus/seasonic-prime-tx-1300-atx-v3-0-psu-review/

On top of that, this cultists network does have their own PSU suggestion article, where in every single metric, Corsair PSU is #1,
link: https://cultists.network/3884/psu-buying-guide/
That is biased view.

For proper PSU buying guide, no manufacturer dominates all and every metric, like this guide;
link: https://hwbusters.com/best_picks/best-atx-v3-0-pcie-5-0-ready-psus-picks-2023-hardware-busters/3/
Which also includes Seasonic Vertex PSU as one of the suggestions.

So, better to link HardwareBusters PSU guide link, than this biased cultists network list.

As of what to avoid;
topic: https://forums.tomshardware.com/thr...pply-discussion-thread-toms-hardware.3212332/
Or better yet, make a topic and ask experts directly.

 

[thestryker]

That is a poor source of info, since that list is biased and doesn't accurately show info about PSUs.

E.g that biased list doesn't include any Seasonic ATX 3.0 PSUs, despite there being several (Focus ATX 3.0, Vertex and PRIME ATX 3.0) with an excuse that no reviews exist.
Well, reviews do exist,
Vertex: https://hwbusters.com/psus/seasonic-vertex-gx-1200-psu-review/
PRIME ATX 3.0: https://hwbusters.com/psus/seasonic-prime-tx-1300-atx-v3-0-psu-review/

On top of that, this cultists network does have their own PSU suggestion article, where in every single metric, Corsair PSU is #1,
link: https://cultists.network/3884/psu-buying-guide/
That is biased view.

For proper PSU buying guide, no manufacturer dominates all and every metric, like this guide;
link: https://hwbusters.com/best_picks/best-atx-v3-0-pcie-5-0-ready-psus-picks-2023-hardware-busters/3/
Which also includes Seasonic Vertex PSU as one of the suggestions.

So, better to link HardwareBusters PSU guide link, than this biased cultists network list.

As of what to avoid;
topic: https://forums.tomshardware.com/thr...pply-discussion-thread-toms-hardware.3212332/
Or better yet, make a topic and ask experts directly.

Can you name a single PSU they suggest not getting that you would?

You talk about bias yet you link to Darkbreeze's post which still lists MSI as a do not buy despite them having released some good ATX 3.0 units.

Your post here is extremely irrational given the context of my recommendation. You linked a buying guide from 2022 and went on a tangential rant about the site.

 

[Aeacus]

Can you name a single PSU they suggest not getting that you would?

Sure; Seasonic S12II-520.
Listed by cultists in Tier E - Avoid, with an excuse of S12II having/had issues with UVP, by linking a source where there is 0 word about S12II series what-so-ever. That source is 4 PSU roundup between Cooler Master, Cougar, XFX and Zalman. If there is an issue with any of these four units, one just can't label the same issue on S12II as well, just because.

You talk about bias yet you link to Darkbreeze's post which still lists MSI as a do not buy despite them having released some good ATX 3.0 units.

As i said, one can ask about specific PSU directly. Darkbreeze hasn't updated the list to include ATX 3.0 PSUs. So, for those PSUs, better to look at HardwareBusters list, which specifically talks about ATX 3.0 PSUs.

Your post here is extremely irrational given the context of my recommendation.

If you throw out biased lists as "good resource" then i think i need to let OP know that not all lists are "good resource", despite you saying so.

 

[thestryker]

Sure; Seasonic S12II-520.
Listed by cultists in Tier E - Avoid, with an excuse of S12II having/had issues with UVP, by linking a source where there is 0 word about S12II series what-so-ever. That source is 4 PSU roundup between Cooler Master, Cougar, XFX and Zalman. If there is an issue with any of these four units, one just can't label the same issue on S12II as well, just because.

So you'd buy a group regulated PSU built over a decade ago without OCP (doesn't have OTP either, but that's less important)? That's absolutely nuts and shows you clearly don't know what you're doing with regards to PSUs. This is a clear example of why nobody should listen to the advice you're dishing out.

If you throw out biased lists as "good resource" then i think i need to let OP know that not all lists are "good resource", despite you saying so.

You clearly don't know what you're talking about given your response to me and earlier advice regarding resolutions which is the only reason I posted in this thread in the first place.

 

[Aeacus]

So you'd buy a group regulated PSU built over a decade ago without OCP (doesn't have OTP either, but that's less important)? That's absolutely nuts and shows you clearly don't know what you're doing with regards to PSUs. This is a clear example of why nobody should listen to the advice you're dishing out.

On the contrary, it shows your lack of knowledge about PSUs and limited mindset of: "all group regulated PSUs are bad", while in fact, they are not.

Group-regulated design, while outdated, isn't actually as bad as many say it to be. In fact, group-regulated PSU, when built well, can easily outperform newer, DC-DC designs.
The best group-regulated PSU ever made is: Seasonic S12II-520,
review: https://web.archive.org/web/2015010...odules.php?name=NDReviews&file=print&reid=185

Can't argue with the reputable review (jonnyguru).

Not that i would buy Seasonic S12II-520, in fact, i've already bought it and used Seasonic S12II-520 for several years, until i retired it and replaced it with Seasonic Focus PX-550.

Spoiler: My S12II-520 replacement to Focus PX-550

And while at current moment, suggesting S12II-520 is pushing it (since platform is from 2009) it still remains as a staple, what group-regulated PSU can be, when built well. Also, S12II-520 is tried, tested and proven to be reliable PSU. Far outlasting the 3 years warranty it initially came with. S12II-520 reliability was the one that earned Seasonic the reputation of Seasonic PSU's being reliable and easily outlasting the warranty period. I've seen builds with S12II-520 that are 5 or even 8 years old, while still running strong.

Specs wise, for example vs Corsair CX650;
Seasonic S12II-520 ripple at +12V is under 25mV, while Corsair CX650, with modern design and being far newer (released in 2020), has +12V ripple at 48.58mV. Essentially double of what S12II-520 has.
CX650 review: https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/corsair-cx650-power-supply-review

The bar has been set by S12II-520 back in 2009. Any modern DC-DC PSU that can't to better than group-regulated S12II-520 did back in 2009, is not worth the consideration. That includes, but isn't limited to, the entire Corsair CX and CXm lineup.

As of why S12II-520 doesn't have OCP and OTP is because back then (2009), none of the PSUs had those protections because those weren't mandatory.
It's like calling '57 Bel Air a bad car since it doesn't come with ABS, air bag and seat belt. Well, car itself isn't bad but safety regulations were different back then, hence the lack of protections/safety features.

You clearly don't know what you're talking about given your response to me and earlier advice regarding resolutions which is the only reason I posted in this thread in the first place.

All i see is your word and your word alone. I have yet to see why cultists.network list is "good resource", other than your word saying it so.

 

[thestryker]

And while at current moment, suggesting S12II-520 is pushing it (since platform is from 2009) it still remains as a staple, what group-regulated PSU can be, when built well.

Pushing it? No it's flat out bad advice. I have a really good PC P&C 750W unit from around 2007-8 that still works but I sure wouldn't suggest anyone consider getting or using one with similar design limitations.

All i see is your word and your word alone. I have yet to see why cultists.network list is "good resource", other than your word saying it so.

I asked you to name a single PSU in their do not buy tiers (the only thing I recommended their list for) that you would actually buy. The only one you came up with is one nobody should consider buying today.

 

[Aeacus]

The only one you came up with is one nobody should consider buying today.

In a 3rd world country, where normal PSUs aren't either available or are insanely expensive, S12II is still viable option. So is M12II EVO. Better this, than no-name crap that can kill the hardware and burn down entire home.

 

[DouggieBuggyBoo]

No, no issue at all. So, you can freely go with new PC case, CPU cooler and PSU and wait until the new GPU you want comes in stock, so you can buy it at later date.

If you plan to go with RTX 4080 or Super, do get 1000W PSU for it. Seasonic Focus GX-1000 ATX 3.0 i linked above is good quality and also has dedicated cable for +12VHPWR connector, all RTX 40-series GPUs use, so, you don't need to use a power adapter (which is included with GPU).

Just wanted to follow up and say thanks again! I changed out the case and power supply and it's been great so far. I think the temperature is already better, and it's quieter too, which is a wonderful bonus.

I'll grab the GPU when it comes in, but it's already been a success!