Question High Cpu Temp / Sudden Problem

Jul 15, 2019
9
0
10
0
Hello. I'm using a ryzen 7 1800x cpu with cooler master masterliquid lite for a year now without any problems. But yesterday my pc shut down suddenly and then when i switched it back on i saw that my cpu temp was hanging around 80 degrees and throttling to 500 mhz (from its normal 3600) . I didnt make any hardware or software changes to the pc. The problem persists on bios too.

Only clue i have is this: ive been using a hair dryer on the same electrical outlet multiplier that the pc is connected to . And thats when the pc first shut down.. I live in an old building. Im not really confident in the condition of the electrical systems here, maybe there was a change in the voltage or something. .

I checked the forums for similar problems, so it seems the possiblities are ;
motherboard
psu
liquid cooler failure.

The only misbehaving component in the pc is my cpu so i thought this cant be a psu issue ?

My Specs are the following

asus prime x370 pro
asus nvidia gtx 1080ti
2 x 16gb 2400 mhz ram
amd ryzeb 7 1800x
some ssd + hdd
thermaltake litepower 700w (about 8 years old)


theres also this image from the asus ai suite software monitor showing some fan speeds and voltages:

ai suite ss
 
First, on your MasterLiquid Lite system, the web page specs say 650 - 2000 RPM for the FAN speeds. It does NOT spec the pump speed. In this system like many, the intent is that the PUMP should always run at full speed, and the speed of the FANS on the radiator is varied to control CPU cooling.

For that purpose, the PUMP power connector is of the THREE-pin design. You are intended to set the header for the pump to the PWM Mode, even though that is "wrong" for controlling that header's "3-pin fan" speed. This uses a quirk of the design of the 4-pin fan system. When you configure the header to use PWM Mode and then plug into it a 3-pin fan that cannot have its speed controlled in that manner, the "fan" (in this case, your PUMP) will always run full speed. That is exactly what you need. To keep things clear, I suggest you use the AIO_PUMP / WPUMP header for the pump.

Then connect the FANS on your radiator to the mobo CPU_FAN header and ensure it is set to use the PWM Mode and Standard Fan Profile. This will automatically control your 4-pin rad fans according to the temperature inside the CPU chip, as the designers intended.

Aside from the details of how to connect and configure, your post says this is a new problem that appeared suddenly. That MAY mean that your system was working OK before even if it was not set up correctly, but something has changed significantly. So IF re-adjusting as I suggest does not solve your problem, you need to look further. What changes could be causing such a situation?

  1. Loose fastening of the water block/pump on top of the CPU chip.
  2. Complete failure of the pump so it is not pumping.
  3. Loss of liquid in the liquid loop system so that, even when the pump is working, there is not enough liquid to flow around and carry heat.
  4. Complete failure of the rad fans.
 
Last edited:
Jul 15, 2019
9
0
10
0
First, on your MasterLiquid Lite system, the web page specs say 650 - 2000 RPM for the FAN speeds. It does NOT spec the pump speed. In this system like many, the intent is that the PUMP should always run at full speed, and the speed of the FANS on the radiator is varied to control CPU cooling.

For that purpose, the PUMP power connector is of the THREE-pin design. You are intended to set the header for the pump to the PWM Mode, even though that is "wrong" for controlling that header's "3-pin fan" speed. This uses a quirk of the design of the 4-pin fan system. When you configure the header to use PWM Mode and then plug into it a 3-pin fan that cannot have its speed controlled in that manner, the "fan" (in this case, your PUMP) will always run full speed. That is exactly what you need. To keep things clear, I suggest you use the AIO_PUMP / WPUMP header for the pump.

Then connect the FANS on your radiator to the mobo CPU_FAN header and ensure it is set to use the PWM Mode and Standard Fan Profile. This will automatically control your 4-pin rad fans according to the temperature inside the CPU chip, as the designers intended.

Aside from the details of how to connect and configure, your post says this is a new problem that appeared suddenly. That MAY mean that your system was working OK before even if it was not set up correctly, but something has changed significantly. So IF re-adjusting as I suggest does not solve your problem, you need to look further. What changes could be causing such a situation?

  1. Loose fastening of the water block/pump on top of the CPU chip.
  2. Complete failure of the pump so it is not pumping.
  3. Loss of liquid in the liquid loop system so that, even when the pump is working, there is not enough liquid to flow around and carry heat.
  4. Complete failure of the rad fans.

1-I re-installed the fan and changed the thermal paste.
3-There is no visible leak
4-rad fans are working in full speed and its actually cold.

i think the pump isnt working correctly or the liquid isnt moving fast enough for some reason..

So you think the culprit is the cooling system and not the power supply or the motherboard ?
 
If your CPU is overheating badly so that it throttles speed while the rad fans are running full speed AND the rad itself is cold, then most definitely there is no heat being moved from CPU to rad. The fans are at full speed because they are guided by the internal temperature sensor in the CPU chip which is rightly remanding maximum cooling.

Only two explanations:
1. The pump is not working at all. You MIGHT try changing its power source to a different fan header to see it that makes it pump heat to the rad. In fact, you know that the header that the rad fans are plugged into now does work - those fans are trying to run full speed. So temporarily unplug the fans on the rad (they are doing nothing now!) and plug the PUMP into that. If that moves heat to the rad, then you know the pump is working. If not, it's dead.

2. Substantial loss of coolant liquid in the loop can also cause this, because the pump even when working cannot move no liquid. USUALLY if you have some liquid in the loop but not enough, if you listen closely (especially with no other fans running temporarily) you can hear gurgling noises from liquid splashing around inside a partially-empty system. If you do hear that, you have lost liquid. If you hear nothing like that, AND the pump seems NOT to vibrate, then the pump is dead.

In either case, (dead pump or lost coolant), contact Tech Support for that system and inquire about warranty coverage for a failed AIO system.
 
Jul 15, 2019
9
0
10
0
If your CPU is overheating badly so that it throttles speed while the rad fans are running full speed AND the rad itself is cold, then most definitely there is no heat being moved from CPU to rad. The fans are at full speed because they are guided by the internal temperature sensor in the CPU chip which is rightly remanding maximum cooling.

Only two explanations:
1. The pump is not working at all. You MIGHT try changing its power source to a different fan header to see it that makes it pump heat to the rad. In fact, you know that the header that the rad fans are plugged into now does work - those fans are trying to run full speed. So temporarily unplug the fans on the rad (they are doing nothing now!) and plug the PUMP into that. If that moves heat to the rad, then you know the pump is working. If not, it's dead.

2. Substantial loss of coolant liquid in the loop can also cause this, because the pump even when working cannot move no liquid. USUALLY if you have some liquid in the loop but not enough, if you listen closely (especially with no other fans running temporarily) you can hear gurgling noises from liquid splashing around inside a partially-empty system. If you do hear that, you have lost liquid. If you hear nothing like that, AND the pump seems NOT to vibrate, then the pump is dead.

In either case, (dead pump or lost coolant), contact Tech Support for that system and inquire about warranty coverage for a failed AIO system.

i tried changing the plugs and nothing happened. But, when i listen closely to the pump i hear something like its trying to start but cant and the sound fades away and then after 10 15 secons later this happens in a loop . I also didnt feel a satisfying vibration :/
 

ASK THE COMMUNITY

TRENDING THREADS