High GPU and water temperatures in new custom loop

[p_en]

Hi everyone.

Im new to this custom watercooling. Been wanting to make a loop in my computer for a long time, and now i finally did. After a lot of hassel, with a bad monoblock i finally got my CPU temps to get steady.

Now my problem is that my water temps are rising kinda high (i think they are high?), and my GPU is getting a lot hotter then what im seeing other people report.

When idle my temps are as follows:
CPU: 35C
GPU: 30C
Water: 34C
Ambient: Somewhere around 25C

When i start gaming, my temps go up tho (ofc they go up):
CPU: Sits around 63C, spikes up to 72C on hottest cores.
GPU: Have seen it go as high as 61C. This is in both games and heaven bench.
Water: Settles in at around 44C (fans are running a lot louder then i would like at this point)
Ambient: Guess it is still around 25 C.

Are these temps normal? Im a bit dissapointed atm, as my custom loop is making more noice then my CLC + air cool gfx.

Specs:
I7-8700k @ 5.0GHz, 1.33vcore, LLC level 6(of 7), delidded
Asus Z370-f gaming motherboard
MSI 1080 TI gaming X, small OC of +50 clock and +100 mem speed
Case is Lian-Li o11 dynamic

Watercooling:
2x 360 EK radiatior. The one with medium thickness.
EK EVO supremacy CPU block
Phanteks GPU waterblock
EK combo res/pump
Using 6 noctua fans at 85% speed. 3 as intake in the side, 3 exhaust in the top.


Flow seemed alright when filling my loop. Currently the pump sits at 45% speed at all times. Rads are getting warm when under load.
Pic of the loop, no water in: The loop

 

[rubix_1011]

Airflow over the radiators and coolant flow are the biggest impacts that can be made in watercooling.

Sounds like you need a fan controller or setup your fans on a fan curve to run very silently at lower loads and max out at higher loads. Remember, running benchmarking is different than everyday use, so while you are trying to account for the highest loads possible, you also need to adjust fan speeds for the 90% of actual use case scenarios, as well.

Also running fans in pull config can help move more air at lower RPM than in push config at the same speeds. Have you tried pull vs. push?

 

[p_en]

Im back! Finally got time to sit down and work on my PC again. Hop e everyone havent left this thread

The FPI of my fans are 19.
As far as i have understood, the actual RPM of the fans dont matter a lot. What matters would be the fans ability to move air through a rad, ie CFM and static pressure. Even tho the noctua fans are running slow (max 1400-1500 RPM), they are the kings at moving air through rads.

I have tried to run the vertical fan in both push and pull, with no real difference. At lower loads i can turn my fan speed down somewhat. But at higher loads i still need to run fans at close to max speed, and i still see too high water delta temps.


As suggested by n0ns3ns3, i tried measuring temps again. Got kinda amazed, as i think i did try to run without any panels before. And i dont think it made much difference, but this time im seeing a somewhat big difference with / without panels on.

Made a google docs, if you wanna look at the numbers:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1VlQvBngUjtVIaMbZfh5w2EKUZOEh4uDa5bC__f2LM7A/edit#gid=0

To make it short, i saw a 6-8 degree delta water temp reduction without the panels on. What do these results mean?

Temps with panels on and 1100RPM (~13 higher water temp then ambient), would be a reasonable place to end up i guess? Problem is just too much noice, spinning at 1100RPM.

 

[rubix_1011]

To make it short, i saw a 6-8 degree delta water temp reduction without the panels on. What do these results mean?

It means your case airflow is hindering your cooling ability. If you have good case airflow, the difference between panels on or off should be mostly negligible.

 

[n0ns3ns3]

To make it short, i saw a 6-8 degree delta water temp reduction without the panels on. What do these results mean?

to make it short, I'll quote one of my previous messages:

1. already mentioned it previously - change the side fans on the rad to be exhaust but keep them on - you want it for a number of reasons:
1.1 the top rad will be not reusing hot air from the side rad when the case is closed
1.2 it's much easier to clean "pull" config. in "push", the dust/dirt buildup is between the fan and rad and it requires disassemble to clean. I'd do the same change from push to pull to the top rad, but that might require change in fittings used to connect the tube going from rad to res.
2. remove the dust filters on the panels where radiators are installed - they are hurting performance without bringing something useful (once all rads are exhausting air)
test the change with the case open, than closed with fans set to 100%.
good result - the liquid should be 7-10C over the ambient and the GPU 10-15C above liquid. so you are looking at 17-25C difference between ambient air and GPU temp.

Just do the:
1. make the side radiator fans to exhaust the air out of the case. also true for the top rad
2. remove the dust filters where radiators installed.
3. add a fan or two at the bottom of the case (optionally rear too ) to push the air into the case.