Question high pitch low volume beeping like morse code from my PC

TheFlyingCelt

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Hi guys,
a month ago or so I replaced mobo, CPU and RAM and everything worked and still works well, but during the last days I've been noticing a high pitch but low volume continous beeping like morse code from my PC that I can also hear through the speakers and that randomly occurs. Note: It is not BIOS beeps at all. It's much lower volume like morse code or teleprinter.
I have tried to use a cardboard roll to spot the area but it's quite approx. although I believe it comes from the upper GPU/low CPU/rear mobo part of the computer.
I don't think it's coil whine but I can't be sure. It's more like beeping. All I know is that I can also hear it in my speakers, and it goes away when I reboot the PC.
I tried to stress test the system with Prime95 and it won't trigger the noise, thus I doubt it's the PSU, or RAM.
I stopped all the fans but the noise is still there.
It happens randomly and when it starts doing it it won't stop untill I reboot the system.
Any idea please?
Thanks y'all

Specs: PSU Corsair 550W, 4 years old. CPU Intel i7-10700KF. RAM HyperX Fury 32GB (2x16) 3200Mhz. Mobo MSI Z490-A PRO. GPU MSI Nvidia GTX 1060 aero. Windows 10 pro latest update.
 
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Ralston18

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Update your post to include full system hardware specs and OS information.

Include PSU: make, model, wattage, age, condition.

Are you able to record the sound and post the recording via imgur (www.imgur.com)?

Take a look in Task Manager when the beeps are being heard - look for any unrecognized (or unexpected to be running) apps running in the background.
 

TheFlyingCelt

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Jul 28, 2015
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post updated

as soon as it will happen again I will record the noise and post it.
p.s. I scanned the computer with a great variety of softwares and there's no malware, virus etc. I can hear the noise coming from inside the computer, but strangely enough also in the speakers as interference.
Thanks
 

Ralston18

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Are the beeps like or similar to the beeps when a USB device is connected or disconnected?

What is the current audio configuration for your computer?

Double check that all audio connections are correct and fully and firmly in place.

Then disconnect audio connections one at a time to determine if the beeps stop or change in some manner.

Try headphones or monitor speakers (versus current speakers) if and as available.
 

TheFlyingCelt

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@Vic 40 I had to dig into my Amazon orders to find out: Corsair VS550

@Ralston18 no, nothing like the USB sounds when plugged or unplugged. It's MUCH more lower volume, and very high pitch similar to a teleprinter.
Audio in integrated mobo
All audio connections are firmly placed and fully in
I tried to disconnect them but it no changes
I will try headphones, although I can actually hear a hardware noise from the inside of the PC.
The noise hasn't been happening for 2 days now, that's why I haven't uploaded the recording yet.
 

Vic 40

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First thing i would do is get another psu. The VS is the bottom line up from Corsair and not very suitable for the hardware you have in your pc, might well be the source.

It's past it's warranty as well so another reason to get something better.
 
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TheFlyingCelt

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@Vic 40 it mostly happens on idle, thus I doubt it's the PSU. Also, I tried to stress test the computer with Prime95 and another software at the same time and despite the current drawing was surely high, the issue didn't occur. I don't think it's the PSU. The noise doesn't even come from that area.
Buying a new PSU without being certain of the cause doesn't really make much sense to me.
 

Vic 40

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The psu delivers the power to the motherboard, if it is "bad" power might it well make something on the motherboard vibrate. Since how low end and old platform it is is exactly at low loads where you can expect this.

It's up to you. You spend a pretty sum on high end hardware and then keep such a thing in your pc to save some, i don't get that, but expect to keep hearing the what i think is coil whine.
 

TheFlyingCelt

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@Vic 40 I'll consider the possibility. Thanks for your advice.
Anyhow, I'm waiting for it to happen again so that I can record it and post it.
It's not doing it for a few days now. Wouldn't it be always there if it was the PSU though? Not sure.
 

Vic 40

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Think it might well depend on the load being within a certain range, not sure. Might be good to ask here where some people look that might be able to explain better,
https://forums.tomshardware.com/forums/power-supplies.75/post-thread
or Ralston18 must have a hotline to jonnyguru and is able to bring him in. 😁 Shall ask in the forum where i have acces to as well.

Not ruling out the motherboard, but think it would be easier to say so if you change the psu first. Have asked, have to see if or more likley when i get an aswer.
 

Ralston18

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The PSU can be tested to some extent.

Not a full test as the PSU is not under load.

If you ( @TheFlyingCelt ) have a multi-meter and know how to use it or you know someone who does then do some testing.

Reference:

https://www.lifewire.com/how-to-manually-test-a-power-supply-with-a-multimeter-2626158

Any voltages out of tolerance are an indication of a failing or faltering PSU.

And (per @ Vic 40) with the VS being a "bottom line" product any PSU issues are likely to be all the more disruptive.

Another suggestion:

https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/best-psus,4229.html

Not with the direct intent or suggestions to purchase a new PSU.

The purpose is to get a stronger sense of how critical the PSU is and to run a few of the calculators.

How hard has the current PSU be run and at what wattage? Total up the build's power requirements component by component. If a component has a wattage range then use the high end value.

Even though the PSU wattage appears to be supportive the actual working wattage and/or voltages may not be.
 

TheFlyingCelt

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Jul 28, 2015
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The PSU can be tested to some extent.

Not a full test as the PSU is not under load.

If you ( @TheFlyingCelt ) have a multi-meter and know how to use it or you know someone who does then do some testing.

Reference:

https://www.lifewire.com/how-to-manually-test-a-power-supply-with-a-multimeter-2626158

Any voltages out of tolerance are an indication of a failing or faltering PSU.

And (per @ Vic 40) with the VS being a "bottom line" product any PSU issues are likely to be all the more disruptive.

Another suggestion:

https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/best-psus,4229.html

Not with the direct intent or suggestions to purchase a new PSU.

The purpose is to get a stronger sense of how critical the PSU is and to run a few of the calculators.

How hard has the current PSU be run and at what wattage? Total up the build's power requirements component by component. If a component has a wattage range then use the high end value.

Even though the PSU wattage appears to be supportive the actual working wattage and/or voltages may not be.

Thank you for the links and advice.
Before buying new CPU, RAM and Mobo I calcuated how many Watts were needed and the PSU should make it with no problems. However I will test it as suggested and see if it shows any issue.
 

TheFlyingCelt

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Hi all,
the issue happened again. Strange thing is that it happened after starting using the app Binance once again, and the noises seem to come from the GPU or near. As I said though, I can hear the interference/noise also in the speakers, especially when I raise the volume. p.s. no noises through bluetooth headphones.
I tried to disconnect every single cable from the computer, including power supply to the GPU, but the noise was always there.
When I reboot the computer, it goes away.
I post here 2 links to 2 audio files. one is recorded from inside the PC with my smartphone, and the other one is recorded by rising the speakers volume and recording what comes out of it.


Inside the PC:
From speakers:

Any idea?
Thanks
 
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Vic 40

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Sorry not going to download the files, enough upload sites where you can just do playback there.

Don't think it's going to matter much anyway, you have gotten some options to check, so motherboard by jonnyguru and in my case psu. Might just be better to rma motherboard and hope the replacement does better or maybe better option refund and choose another motherboard. Maybe you can even try another motherboard with the option of returning one or the other.