I need to know who I can get my desktop computer to stop constantly disconnecting from internet? My internet isn't that great, but, my Roku and my phone never lose the Internet. What is the reason for that and how do I copy their reliability on my computer?
I am running an older home built desktop. It does not have a brand. I am running Windows 10.
My housemate has AT&T "Broadband" - at 25 Mbps. When I have Internet my computer equals or exceeds 25 Mbps, but the jitter is all over the place. Ping might be 25 or 400. I have not had ping show it outright cutting out, not even in Ubuntu where it keeps running until you stop it.
You'd think I have my answer, except, it is not bothering my Roku or my phone - not even with You Tube, which makes ridiculous demands on internet reliability. The internet signal itself is not disappearing, only my computer's ability to connect to it.
The adapter-s antenna is on top of my 5-6 foot high loft bed post, with antennae spread out perpendicular to a direct line to the modem, which is about 40 feet and 2 plaster and wood walls away.
The USB adapter is connected to the USB 3.0 port.
The Windows Reliability History isn't giving any internet related errors at all. I did just now disable IP6. I do have everything disabled but one wireless connection.
ping n 1000 google.com does show that periodically the connection times out, and when it does, my browser (Chrome) also doesn't connect to the internet, and, it takes a couple of seconds after the connection comes back for browser function to recover.
I can't seem to copy and paste, as I could in Ubuntu, but, it'll be goind along at time - 46 ms, and really, not much jitter at teh moment, but every 30 or 40 lines I get Request time out, and that may repeat several times, and then back to time=46 ms.
But this isn't bothering my Roku at all. It never even blinks.
On my Iphone 11, using the Inet utility, I am runnng ping, and so far I see at this moment more Request timed out on my desktop in Command prompt than connecting successfully, but, on my iphone, I have only seen a single one line of time out, and, not much more jitter. This suggests a real difference between how my desktop is receiving wireless than how my phone is receiving - or processing it. My phone is not experiencing most of the timeouts that my desktop is.
One other thing; for exactly half of one day, I had working actual broadband internet, at 300 mbps, from Suddenlink/ Optimum, which then stopped working. (Specifically the modem stopped connecting.) A wireless extender was connected to my ethernet port by cable, and the wireless was disabled, and I never saw this issue. That also suggests it's a problem with my wireless adapter.
That the internet issues aren't bothering my other devices suggests a different internet adapter might get my computer to reliably connect to the internet.
I am using this adapter.
What adapter would best cope with my poor internet and not keep cutting out? And work for longer than for 2 weeks?
Can anyone come up with a way to make my computer connect to the internet as reliably as my Roku and phone can?
Disabling IP 6 did not work. Trying to update the driver, I found the system is running this,
802.11ac Wireless LAN Card. Driver provider Microsoft
Driver date 4/21/2015
Driver Version 5.1.22.0
Digital Signer Microsoft Windows
system32\DRIVERS\FW_7662.bin
netr28uxsys
Patch_7662.bin
System32\drivers\wifibus.sys
When I clicked to update driver, when I clicked to go to Microsoft Update to look for an update for the driver, it only opened Microsoft Update itself, which said I am "up to date", not looked for that driver.
Panda web site says that for Windows 10 I don't need a driver, and that's all it said.
I don't think for one minute a 2015 version of that driver is up to date. The driver is 7 years old than the device it supports!
Thanks!
Yours,
Dora Smith
I am running an older home built desktop. It does not have a brand. I am running Windows 10.
My housemate has AT&T "Broadband" - at 25 Mbps. When I have Internet my computer equals or exceeds 25 Mbps, but the jitter is all over the place. Ping might be 25 or 400. I have not had ping show it outright cutting out, not even in Ubuntu where it keeps running until you stop it.
You'd think I have my answer, except, it is not bothering my Roku or my phone - not even with You Tube, which makes ridiculous demands on internet reliability. The internet signal itself is not disappearing, only my computer's ability to connect to it.
The adapter-s antenna is on top of my 5-6 foot high loft bed post, with antennae spread out perpendicular to a direct line to the modem, which is about 40 feet and 2 plaster and wood walls away.
The USB adapter is connected to the USB 3.0 port.
The Windows Reliability History isn't giving any internet related errors at all. I did just now disable IP6. I do have everything disabled but one wireless connection.
ping n 1000 google.com does show that periodically the connection times out, and when it does, my browser (Chrome) also doesn't connect to the internet, and, it takes a couple of seconds after the connection comes back for browser function to recover.
I can't seem to copy and paste, as I could in Ubuntu, but, it'll be goind along at time - 46 ms, and really, not much jitter at teh moment, but every 30 or 40 lines I get Request time out, and that may repeat several times, and then back to time=46 ms.
But this isn't bothering my Roku at all. It never even blinks.
On my Iphone 11, using the Inet utility, I am runnng ping, and so far I see at this moment more Request timed out on my desktop in Command prompt than connecting successfully, but, on my iphone, I have only seen a single one line of time out, and, not much more jitter. This suggests a real difference between how my desktop is receiving wireless than how my phone is receiving - or processing it. My phone is not experiencing most of the timeouts that my desktop is.
One other thing; for exactly half of one day, I had working actual broadband internet, at 300 mbps, from Suddenlink/ Optimum, which then stopped working. (Specifically the modem stopped connecting.) A wireless extender was connected to my ethernet port by cable, and the wireless was disabled, and I never saw this issue. That also suggests it's a problem with my wireless adapter.
That the internet issues aren't bothering my other devices suggests a different internet adapter might get my computer to reliably connect to the internet.
I am using this adapter.
Panda Wireless® PAU0D AC1200 Wireless AC USB Adapter w/Dual Antennas
When I research adapters, I find different suggestions, but, when I go on Amazon, every one of them, whether with or without antennas, using whatever 6, high speed, low speed, usb or PCI slot, ALL have 6% of users report the same set of problems; low speed and internet keeps cutting out, after 2 weeks it no longer works at all, even with Intel chips. A similar common report in different words is that the internet connection frequently drops, in other words, with every single adapter I looked at no matter what kind, many people reported the specific issue I want to NOT experience. Satisfaction at 4 or 5 is always 86 to 87%. Normally I would be happy at things rated more than 4.5, but, if their adapters can't cope with troubled internet service, or potentially even with normal internet service, it's not likely to work for me either, and I'm not happy with a 1/20 chance of the thing failing out of the box.What adapter would best cope with my poor internet and not keep cutting out? And work for longer than for 2 weeks?
Can anyone come up with a way to make my computer connect to the internet as reliably as my Roku and phone can?
Disabling IP 6 did not work. Trying to update the driver, I found the system is running this,
802.11ac Wireless LAN Card. Driver provider Microsoft
Driver date 4/21/2015
Driver Version 5.1.22.0
Digital Signer Microsoft Windows
system32\DRIVERS\FW_7662.bin
netr28uxsys
Patch_7662.bin
System32\drivers\wifibus.sys
When I clicked to update driver, when I clicked to go to Microsoft Update to look for an update for the driver, it only opened Microsoft Update itself, which said I am "up to date", not looked for that driver.
Panda web site says that for Windows 10 I don't need a driver, and that's all it said.
I don't think for one minute a 2015 version of that driver is up to date. The driver is 7 years old than the device it supports!
Thanks!
Yours,
Dora Smith
Last edited:
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