Question How do i get my CPU temps down ?

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Here's an article explaining airflow more in detail:
https://www.tomshardware.com/how-to/set-up-pc-case-fans-for-airflow-and-performance

When using a CPU air cooler, it usually isn't strong enough itself to pull in a lot of air from outside the case. And the difference can be that an air cooler rated as "just about good enough for the CPU" may not be good enough when there isn't proper airflow. A stronger air cooler for the CPU may eventually help, or an AIO solution in the H510 as GarrettL uses (which apparently takes fresh air from an intake fan at the top) may be an even better approach when talking about H510.

In any case, if you purchased the rig as one piece from a retailer, then it sure is advisable to check with them, as doing modifications yourself may void the warranty of your purchase (differences based on country may apply).
From what KyaraM above you are saying none of this might be necesary, but that is a very good article though, i had no clue that you could have bottom intake fans for an example and that they are better than front intake fans ? Most people recommend front intake fans, but lets say KyaraM's solution isnt enough, then in my case getting bottom intake fans would probably be better than getting front intake fans, because of the front is one my case and the holes on the sides are not that good for front intake fans. Yes KyaraM's post also includes getting a better CPU cooler and i was going to gather information from everyone and then come up with a decision in the end, but KyaraM is mentioning someone with pretty much same setup as me, its just a better CPU that gets hotter than mine and with another bad airflow case, but the the CPU cooler is enough to keep the pc at maximum 71 C no matter what, wich is really good. But i havent decided 100% yet, im still listenning to peoples opinions and gathering information, because there is alot of different options, like alot of people are also telling me to get a case with better airflow and some people are going even further than that.
 
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From you description, you probably got the Intel stock cooler on there which is fine for an i3-12100, but really isn't strong enough for a 12700F. The Pure Rock 2 will do much, much better, especially if you don't push it to 100% all the time. In fact, I know of at least one 12700K, so the somewhat stronger version of that CPU, being cooled by that very same cooler (with undervolting for long-term high workloads, which isn't the case for either gaming nor anti virus; it averages between 50-60°C gaming with maybe a jump to 71 now and then, which is not a problem), which also works in a somewhat airflow restricted case. It even handles a mild overclock fine, which isn't a thing on your chip. Alder Lake is really good at undervolting, btw. -100mV seems to be no issue for basically any 12700 and is more than enough. But again, if you only game, none of that is at all necessary since the CPU shouldn't get close to 100% load.
Also do you know how the flow of the case your friends has is ?
 
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From you description, you probably got the Intel stock cooler on there which is fine for an i3-12100, but really isn't strong enough for a 12700F. The Pure Rock 2 will do much, much better, especially if you don't push it to 100% all the time. In fact, I know of at least one 12700K, so the somewhat stronger version of that CPU, being cooled by that very same cooler (with undervolting for long-term high workloads, which isn't the case for either gaming nor anti virus; it averages between 50-60°C gaming with maybe a jump to 71 now and then, which is not a problem), which also works in a somewhat airflow restricted case. It even handles a mild overclock fine, which isn't a thing on your chip. Alder Lake is really good at undervolting, btw. -100mV seems to be no issue for basically any 12700 and is more than enough. But again, if you only game, none of that is at all necessary since the CPU shouldn't get close to 100% load.
Are you sure i can undervolt i7 12700F ? Now ive been trying with both Intel XTU and ThrottleStop and the area where you undervolt is greyed out, im trying to troubleshoot how to fix it, but no luck yet ..
 

KyaraM

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Are you sure i can undervolt i7 12700F ? Now ive been trying with both Intel XTU and ThrottleStop and the area where you undervolt is greyed out, im trying to troubleshoot how to fix it, but no luck yet ..
Sorry, I had to ask about the CPU and undervolting. From what I was told:

Undervolting made the biggest difference of around 15°C (from 100°C to around 85°C, on the 12700K; less when overclocked, but still beneath 90°C). My friend then added some case fans (top intake and top exhaust, after much testing) and a second CPU fan of the same model for a push-pull configuration. The second CPU made a difference of around 2-3°C, the case fans mainly stabilized peaks and gave maybe 1°C average lowered temps. So not that useful for the money. All in all, the 12700K now sits at ca. 80°C in Cinebench with maybe a spike to 83°C. That is completely okay as a full load scenario. Gaming, again, about 50-60°C average, 70 spike on 1-2 cores, others less. Before the undervolt, gaming temps averaged in the 60's with spikes to the low 80's btw.

About the mainboard and undervolting... I'm very sorry, I didn't find anything on that and neither of us has an Asus board so we don't know where the setting might be... or if it exists on a B-chipset one.
 
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Sorry, I had to ask about the CPU and undervolting. From what I was told:

Undervolting made the biggest difference of around 15°C (from 100°C to around 85°C, on the 12700K; less when overclocked, but still beneath 90°C). My friend then added some case fans (top intake and top exhaust, after much testing) and a second CPU fan of the same model for a push-pull configuration. The second CPU made a difference of around 2-3°C, the case fans mainly stabilized peaks and gave maybe 1°C average lowered temps. So not that useful for the money. All in all, the 12700K now sits at ca. 80°C in Cinebench with maybe a spike to 83°C. That is completely okay as a full load scenario. Gaming, again, about 50-60°C average, 70 spike on 1-2 cores, others less. Before the undervolt, gaming temps averaged in the 60's with spikes to the low 80's btw.

About the mainboard and undervolting... I'm very sorry, I didn't find anything on that and neither of us has an Asus board so we don't know where the setting might be... or if it exists on a B-chipset one.
maybe i can undervolt in BIOS, i will try that, just thought it would be smarter with a program for it, so that i didnt have to restart after each time i UV, but i guess Intel likes to lock it as much as possible because of Plundervolt. Yeah okay i will just change the CPU cooler then and not anything else to begin with i think, because i already have a top and exhaust fan, i think they are both exhaust though, because i feel the air from the on my hand when taking it close to them on the outside of the case. But yeah 80 C in Cinebench is good, because thats putting the system to the max and my biggest worry is when i do full scans with Windows Defender and thats not putting at close to same load as Cinebench, so if i can undervolt and when i get the Pure Rock CPU cooler im probably gonna sit at even lower temps than your friend. Thanks for the help !
 

letmepicyou

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If you're looking to cool a CPU, I can attest to the performance of the Corsair H170i Elite LCD. The non-LCD Capellix should perform equally as well, but you don't get the groovy LCD screen on your pump.

I'm cooling a (non-overclocked) i7 12700kf, and she idles around 29c, and when gaming, screams all the way up to like, 35, 36c, lol. It's pretty ridiculous how well it performs, and it's NEARLY SILENT, I've had the best air coolers (as well as other AIO's) and this is the quietest machine I've ever built. Especially when you consider that some of my CPU coolers back in the socket A days had 80mm high-flow fans that sounded like a Lear jet. :sweatsmile:

Seriously, the 420mm AIO's from Corsair kick butt.
 
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If you're looking to cool a CPU, I can attest to the performance of the Corsair H170i Elite LCD. The non-LCD Capellix should perform equally as well, but you don't get the groovy LCD screen on your pump.

I'm cooling a (non-overclocked) i7 12700kf, and she idles around 29c, and when gaming, screams all the way up to like, 35, 36c, lol. It's pretty ridiculous how well it performs, and it's NEARLY SILENT, I've had the best air coolers (as well as other AIO's) and this is the quietest machine I've ever built. Especially when you consider that some of my CPU coolers back in the socket A days had 80mm high-flow fans that sounded like a Lear jet. :sweatsmile:

Seriously, the 420mm AIO's from Corsair kick butt.
From what ive heard air coolers is better because of less maintenance, repairing, the price, etc. ? Also the shop im buying from they only have theese coolers
BE QUIET PURE ROCK 2 (air cooler)

and

CORSAIR H100x watercooler 240MM

what do you think about those ?
 

letmepicyou

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From what ive heard air coolers is better because of less maintenance, repairing, the price, etc. ? Also the shop im buying from they only have theese coolers
BE QUIET PURE ROCK 2 (air cooler)

and

CORSAIR H100x watercooler 240MM

what do you think about those ?
I think the BE QUIET PURE ROCK 2 is rated at 150 watts...
And according to Corsair, the H100 is good for about 140 watts...
And you're trying to cool a CPU that can put out 180 watts at peak.

What do YOU think about that? Because to me, that sounds like something I wouldn't do.

I think ANY cpu cooler you put on there will work if you don't intend to use it to it's maximum potential.
But if you didn't intend to use it to it's maximum potential, why didn't you just get a lesser model i5?
 
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I think the BE QUIET PURE ROCK 2 is rated at 150 watts...
And according to Corsair, the H100 is good for about 140 watts...
And you're trying to cool a CPU that can put out 180 watts at peak.

What do YOU think about that? Because to me, that sounds like something I wouldn't do.

I think ANY cpu cooler you put on there will work if you don't intend to use it to it's maximum potential.
But if you didn't intend to use it to it's maximum potential, why didn't you just get a lesser model i5?
I see what you mean, but look what KyaraM wrote a in here, he's friend have pretty much same setup and maximum hits 71 C ? And i just said i wanted a fast pc and thats pretty much it
 

letmepicyou

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I see what you mean, but look what KyaraM wrote a in here, he's friend have pretty much same setup and maximum hits 71 C ? And i just said i wanted a fast pc and thats pretty much it
I mean, it would probably work fine. I'm perhaps a bit more...obsessive...when it comes to temperatures.
I see lots of folks mention seeing their cpus hit 70c...personally I'm not a fan of temps that high. My 12700kf literally tops out at 35c, that's the hottest I've ever seen it get, regardless of what game I play (GTA IV, GTA V, Civilization VI, Witcher 3, Skyrim, ect). No under-volting, just running at stock everything.
 

Karadjgne

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I think the BE QUIET PURE ROCK 2 is rated at 150 watts...
And according to Corsair, the H100 is good for about 140 watts...
And you're trying to cool a CPU that can put out 180 watts at peak.

What do YOU think about that? Because to me, that sounds like something I wouldn't do.

I think ANY cpu cooler you put on there will work if you don't intend to use it to it's maximum potential.
But if you didn't intend to use it to it's maximum potential, why didn't you just get a lesser model i5?
As a general rule on aios, 120mm = 150w, 140mm = 180w, 240mm = 250w, 280mm = 300w, 360mm = 350w and a 420mm = 400w. That applies to Capacity, not Efficiency.

A Noctua NH-D15 has the same 250w Capacity as a 240mm AIO, but depending on the exact model of the AIO, the NH-D15 can offer better or worse temps, because actual temps and performance are dictated by Efficiency.

The beQuiet PureRock 2 is rated at 150w, so would be equitable to a Corsair H60i as far as Capacity goes, not the Corsair H100i, which would be equitable to the beQuiet DarkRock Pro4. Which of those 4 coolers gets better temps will be upto the loads vs efficiency of the cooler.

A 65w Ryzen is going to see almost the same performance from any of the 4 coolers, very little varience, but a heavily loaded i7/i9 is going to destroy the 2x 150w coolers chances of workable temps.

Case airflow is a highly complex subject, and tied directly to the case in question. With the NZXT H500 series, that case happens to be the exact wrong dimensions physically for front intake fans. A fan works by creating a low pressure area in front of it, the byproduct being the pressure wave of air out the back. The H500 series suffers from a lack of supply to the front intakes, so there's very little air out the back of the fan. However, it's enough to balance out the pressure inside.

Nature abhors a vacuum, so air will physically move from higher pressure intakes to the low pressure created by the exhaust. With a balance of pressure inside, there's very little air movement, so any radiated heat from cpu/gpu exhausts goes nowhere except back around to the gpu/cpu fans, and temps climb on those components.

Having a totally negative system, just using the 2x exhaust fans, means the gpu fans pull air from the rear area directly, a very short distance, and has no choice but to go directly to the case exhaust low pressure area. Far more effective and efficient, and the air actually moves so case temps are lower, as is component temps.
 
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I mean, it would probably work fine. I'm perhaps a bit more...obsessive...when it comes to temperatures.
I see lots of folks mention seeing their cpus hit 70c...personally I'm not a fan of temps that high. My 12700kf literally tops out at 35c, that's the hottest I've ever seen it get, regardless of what game I play (GTA IV, GTA V, Civilization VI, Witcher 3, Skyrim, ect). No under-volting, just running at stock everything.
Obviously your temperatures are way better, but im not looking to go as low as possible, i just dont want temperatures above 80 C
 
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As a general rule on aios, 120mm = 150w, 140mm = 180w, 240mm = 250w, 280mm = 300w, 360mm = 350w and a 420mm = 400w. That applies to Capacity, not Efficiency.

A Noctua NH-D15 has the same 250w Capacity as a 240mm AIO, but depending on the exact model of the AIO, the NH-D15 can offer better or worse temps, because actual temps and performance are dictated by Efficiency.

The beQuiet PureRock 2 is rated at 150w, so would be equitable to a Corsair H60i as far as Capacity goes, not the Corsair H100i, which would be equitable to the beQuiet DarkRock Pro4. Which of those 4 coolers gets better temps will be upto the loads vs efficiency of the cooler.

A 65w Ryzen is going to see almost the same performance from any of the 4 coolers, very little varience, but a heavily loaded i7/i9 is going to destroy the 2x 150w coolers chances of workable temps.

Case airflow is a highly complex subject, and tied directly to the case in question. With the NZXT H500 series, that case happens to be the exact wrong dimensions physically for front intake fans. A fan works by creating a low pressure area in front of it, the byproduct being the pressure wave of air out the back. The H500 series suffers from a lack of supply to the front intakes, so there's very little air out the back of the fan. However, it's enough to balance out the pressure inside.

Nature abhors a vacuum, so air will physically move from higher pressure intakes to the low pressure created by the exhaust. With a balance of pressure inside, there's very little air movement, so any radiated heat from cpu/gpu exhausts goes nowhere except back around to the gpu/cpu fans, and temps climb on those components.

Having a totally negative system, just using the 2x exhaust fans, means the gpu fans pull air from the rear area directly, a very short distance, and has no choice but to go directly to the case exhaust low pressure area. Far more effective and efficient, and the air actually moves so case temps are lower, as is component temps.
Yeah my case sucks, but some people still seem to make it work, if i had known this before i bought my pc i would have got a completely different case that allows front in take fans aswell, cpu cooler and more fans.
 

Karadjgne

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Well in a negative setup, your case is just fine for temps, about average compared with others of its size and shape, so no worries there, but more fans does not always equal better airflow. Better fans, better placed fans = better airflow. But that doesn't always work with aesthetics. Ask yourself why there's no such thing as a Noctua ARGB fan.
 
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KyaraM

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I mean, it would probably work fine. I'm perhaps a bit more...obsessive...when it comes to temperatures.
I see lots of folks mention seeing their cpus hit 70c...personally I'm not a fan of temps that high. My 12700kf literally tops out at 35c, that's the hottest I've ever seen it get, regardless of what game I play (GTA IV, GTA V, Civilization VI, Witcher 3, Skyrim, ect). No under-volting, just running at stock everything.
If you want to waste your money on complete overkill cooling, be my guest. But please don't make others waste their money on unnecessary stuff, too. And that amount of cooling is completely unnecessary for this CPU.
 
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letmepicyou

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If you want to waste your money on complete overkill cooling, be my guest. But please don't make others waste their money on unnecessary stuff, too. And that amount of cooling is completely unnecessary for this CPU.
I lack the capability to "make" anyone do anything.

And buying an "overkill" cpu cooler isn't really that much different than buying an "overkill" power supply, is it? Sometimes folks want to upgrade their cpu, and buying a CPU cooler that's "adequate" now means they might have to buy another one later on when the "bug" bites them. How many times have I heard people advise "Get a power supply with room to upgrade in the future"? I don't see any difference between buying more CPU cooler than you need and buying more power supply or video card or hard drive storage space than you need. At the end of the day, they know what their budget is and if my suggestion is out of their sphere of consideration. I don't think they need you to save them from my mere suggestion.
 

KyaraM

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I lack the capability to "make" anyone do anything.

And buying an "overkill" cpu cooler isn't really that much different than buying an "overkill" power supply, is it? Sometimes folks want to upgrade their cpu, and buying a CPU cooler that's "adequate" now means they might have to buy another one later on when the "bug" bites them. How many times have I heard people advise "Get a power supply with room to upgrade in the future"? I don't see any difference between buying more CPU cooler than you need and buying more power supply or video card or hard drive storage space than you need. At the end of the day, they know what their budget is and if my suggestion is out of their sphere of consideration. I don't think they need you to save them from my mere suggestion.
I'm not a fan of completely oversizing a PSU, either. By the time most people change their GPUs, the PSU will be old enough that they have to swap it out anyways. You can see that a lot on this forum, and this isn't even a place where the average user often posts. Most people don't bother with upgrades, or even know how to perform them. Meanwhile, with the given use cases, a stronger CPU isn't necessary for a long while. Why bother thinking about something that won't happen any time soon, and when it eventually happens, the situation will be vastly different than today again? Lastly, TC already stated what coolers they have access to. Why suggest something they cannot get in the first place, on top of not needing it?
 
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letmepicyou

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I'm not a fan of completely oversizing a PSU, either. By the time most people change their GPUs, the PSU will be old enough that they have to swap it out anyways. You can see that a lot on this forum, and this isn't even a place where the average user often posts. Most people don't bother with upgrades, or even know how to perform them. Meanwhile, with the given use cases, a stronger CPU isn't necessary for a long while. Why bother thinking about something that won't happen any time soon, and when it eventually happens, the situation will be vastly different than today again? Lastly, TC already stated what coolers they have access to. Why suggest something they cannot get in the first place, on top of not needing it?
Because neither of the coolers they have available are rated to cool the cpu he has.
I would think that is self evident.
 
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I lack the capability to "make" anyone do anything.

And buying an "overkill" cpu cooler isn't really that much different than buying an "overkill" power supply, is it? Sometimes folks want to upgrade their cpu, and buying a CPU cooler that's "adequate" now means they might have to buy another one later on when the "bug" bites them. How many times have I heard people advise "Get a power supply with room to upgrade in the future"? I don't see any difference between buying more CPU cooler than you need and buying more power supply or video card or hard drive storage space than you need. At the end of the day, they know what their budget is and if my suggestion is out of their sphere of consideration. I don't think they need you to save them from my mere suggestion.
Well i did write that i just dont want to hit 80 C in my first post in this topic and that id prefer not spending money, so the cheaper solution for hitting under 80 C the better.
 

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