[SOLVED] How do I set a better fan profile for my AMD RX 570 (single fan - reference design)?

[box o rocks]

Can I do that somehow in the Radeon software that comes with the driver package? I'm kinda new at this when it comes to GPUs.

 

[Darkbreeze]

No, you can't. You need to use a utility like Afterburner, which should work with ANY graphics card you can buy. Reference OR aftermarket board partner.

https://www.msi.com/page/afterburner

One thing to note though, and this applies to any graphics card, Afterburner (Or any other utility) MUST be running in order for the fan profile to work. It can be minimized, but it has to be open. If you close it, it will automatically revert to whatever the default fan behavior is for that card. Same goes to GPU and memory clocks if you've made adjustments to those as well.

 

[box o rocks]

No, you can't. You need to use a utility like Afterburner, which should work with ANY graphics card you can buy. Reference OR aftermarket board partner.

https://www.msi.com/page/afterburner

One thing to note though, and this applies to any graphics card, Afterburner (Or any other utility) MUST be running in order for the fan profile to work. It can be minimized, but it has to be open. If you close it, it will automatically revert to whatever the default fan behavior is for that card. Same goes to GPU and memory clocks if you've made adjustments to those as well.

Thanks. That did the job.
But I guess the problem I had been having wasn't the temp after all. Games play normal until about 15 min. in and then fps drops to single digits. Almost slide show. No matter how graphically simple the game is. I just tested it with an oldie but goodie; 2005 F.E.A.R. Extraction Point, not exactly state of the art graphics. Same thing. Good for awhile, then trash.

i5-4570
Asus B85M-G motherboard
2x4 GB DDR3 1600
RX 570 4GB
Antec 500W PSU

Case temps and CPU temps normal. I ran Furmark with settings as high as I could set for 30 minutes and all was fine. No slow down there.

 

[Darkbreeze]

If there are any steps listed here that you have not already done, it would be advisable to do so if for no other reason than to be able to say you've already done it and eliminate that possibility.

First,

make sure your motherboard has the MOST recent BIOS version installed. If it does not, then update. This solves a high number of issues even in cases where the release that is newer than yours makes no mention of improving graphics card or other hardware compatibility. They do not list every change they have made when they post a new BIOS release.


Second,

go to the product page for your motherboard on the manufacturer website. Download and install the latest driver versions for the chipset, storage controllers, audio and network adapters. Do not skip installing a newer driver just because you think it is not relevant to the problem you are having. The drivers for one device can often affect ALL other devices and a questionable driver release can cause instability in the OS itself. They don't release new drivers just for fun. If there is a new driver release for a component, there is a good reason for it. The same goes for BIOS updates.


IF you have other hardware installed or attached to the system that are not a part of the systems covered by the motherboard drivers, then go to the support page for THAT component and check to see if there are newer drivers available for that as well. If there are, install them.


Third,

Make sure your memory is running at the correct advertised speed in the BIOS. This may require that you set the memory to run at the XMP profile settings. Also, make sure you have the memory installed in the correct slots and that they are running in dual channel which you can check by installing CPU-Z and checking the Memory and SPD tabs. For all modern motherboards that are dual channel memory architectures, from the last ten years at least, if you have two sticks installed they should be in the A2 (Called DDR4_1 on some boards) or B2 (Called DDR4_2 on some boards) which are ALWAYS the SECOND and FOURTH slots over from the CPU socket, counting TOWARDS the edge of the motherboard EXCEPT on boards that only have two memory slots total. In that case, if you have two modules it's not rocket science, but if you have only one, then install it in the A1 or DDR4_1 slot.



Fourth,

for now anyhow, is the graphics card drivers. Regardless of whether you "already installed the newest drivers" for your graphics card or not, it is OFTEN a good idea to do a CLEAN install of the graphics card drivers. Just installing over the old drivers OR trying to use what Nvidia and AMD consider a clean install is not good enough and does not usually give the same result as using the Display Driver Uninstaller utility. This has a very high success rate and is always worth a shot.


If you have had both Nvidia and AMD cards installed at any point on that operating system then you will want to run the DDU twice. Once for the old card drivers (ie, Nvidia or AMD) and again for the currently installed graphics card drivers (ie, AMD or Nvidia). So if you had an Nvidia card at some point in the past, run it first for Nvidia and then after that is complete, run it again for AMD if you currently have an AMD card installed.

Graphics card driver CLEAN install guide using the Wagnard tools DDU​

And last, but not least, if you have never done a CLEAN install of Windows, or have upgraded from an older version to Windows 10, or have been through several spring or fall major Windows updates, it might be a very good idea to consider doing a clean install of Windows if none of these other solutions has helped.

How to do a CLEAN installation of Windows 10, the RIGHT way​

 

[box o rocks]

Thank you for that detailed guide. The link to your "how to" sticky was also helpful. These are my results based on your four recommendations:

(First ) Latest BIOS for the Asus B85M-G was and is installed.

(Second) Every latest driver from above web site for every component I can think of including the board was and is installed.

(Third) Memory is was and is correctly set to run at 1600 MHz. The 2x4GB sticks are in the Black slots.

(Fourth) This is the only graphics driver the system has ever had except for the iGPU driver that Windows installed at installation. It is the first discrete card I've ever had in the PC. But if you think it is worth doing so, I'll do the DDU process you describe.

I'm beginning to get the hunch that you are going to tell me that the graphics card is dying....
I do have a GT 1030 In my office PC I could test with and see if the issue happens with it. I still have FEAR XP installed. It should be no problem for the GT 1030. (I kinda forgot how fun the old game was... lol)

 

[Darkbreeze]

Memory should be in the yellow slots. Those are the A2 and B2 slots, which are the second and fourth slots over from the CPU and are the correct slots per every manufacturers population guidelines for every dual channel consumer motherboard made since the advent of DDR3, and possibly before then as well although I haven't gone back far enough to verify it since there are few systems relevant these days which are running DDR2.

You should move your memory to those slots.

I think it is too soon to say the card is failing, but you should be prepared for that possibility. What is the ACTUAL model of your Antec 500w PSU and how long has it been in service?

 

[box o rocks]

The RAM is DDR3, not DDR2. But I'll give it a try. (The manual didn't specify which slots to use for running 2 sticks, so I went with the black ones)

THe PSU is an Antec Earthwatts 500D. The case required a top mount PSU.

 

[Darkbreeze]

Yeah, I realize it's DDR3, I was simply making a point of reference for when the A2 and B2 became solidly standard, but it was around even before that it just wasn't adopted across the board by every manufacturer back in the earlier days of DDR and DDR2 as much. By the time DDR3 was a thing, basically every consumer motherboard used the same population rules regardless of chipset or whether it was Intel or AMD. It is ALWAYS the 2nd and 4th DIMM slot for the first pair of sticks or the 2nd DIMM slot when it's only one stick. Just lately, ASUS has changed it's single DIMM population rule to designate the 4th slot as the preferred single DIMM population location, but even so it is still the second and fourth slots for two DIMMs.

You are right that the manual for that board, unlike 90% of them, does not even SHOW the recommended population guidelines for the memory installation, which is very peculiar but should simply be considered to be an oversight. I assure you, the population guidelines are the same for all DDR3 and DDR4 consumer dual channel motherboards with four DIMM slots.

How old is that power supply that you know of? How long in service?

 

[box o rocks]

I don't know about the PSU age, but it looks in pristine condition.

I'm going to remove the graphics card from this machine and put it in my other machine (that games perfectly) to see if it does the same thing. If it does, I almost have to assume the card is the issue then, right?

 

[Darkbreeze]

Not necessarily. "Looks in pristine condition" literally means nothing, at all, when it comes to power supplies. A power supply could sit in the box, on a shelf, for five years, never having been used, and be put into a system and immediately have a problem from the capacitors having degraded even though it wasn't in use.

For a system that HAS seen some use, especially one that is likely FAR more than five years old based on that model, there's an even much higher probability of that. The few reviews there are of that unit are from 2010, meaning it's likely about ten years old. That says it's probably about 7 years past the length of time it was intended by the manufacturer to be trustworthy for, as that unit would have come with only a three year warranty in 2010. By 2015 that unit should probably have been discarded.

It is, of course, possible that the graphics card is the problem, but that RX570 "NEEDS" a very good 500w unit that can ACTUALLY deliver somewhere between 450-500w continuously. If it can't, then you're going to have the kind of problems that you're having, but so can a bad graphics card or motherboard. If the card works in another machine that DOES have a 500w power supply and doesn't have these problems, then I'd start with the power supply.

If it doesn't, then I'd take a good hard look at the power supply in that system to ascertain whether or not IT is even capable of supporting that graphics card or not. List the model of the PSU in that system and I'll offer an opinion on that if you'd like.

 

[box o rocks]

OK. Thank you. Lots of good advice there. I will follow upon some of that info. I guess I'm thru here. Covered all bases. Have a good day.

 

[Darkbreeze]

You as well.