[SOLVED] HOW MUCH POWER??

martin2003jan

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Aug 22, 2018
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how much power or what kind of PSU do I need for the following build:
-GIGABYTE B360M GAMING HD MOBO
-ASUS Phoenix GTX 1050 2GB
-Intel Core i3 9100F
-8GB DDR4 2666Mhz
-WD Blue SSD 500GB
- Three 120mm LED fans
-DVD-ROM Drive
I currently have a 450W Bronze power supply by EVGA but is it enough? If so how much power do I need for an RX 570 AND i5 8400 because I am planning on upgrading to that later on.
I did use the Power Supply Calculator but I just want to make sure with real people.
 
Solution
For your current system, your power supply is sufficient.

For the RX 570 upgrade, you will want a GOOD power supply that is capable of sustaining a minimum of 500w and has at least ONE 6+2 or 8 pin PCI power connector. If you are going to buy a NEW power supply, I would suggest you read the recommendations below to better educate yourself on which models are recommended and which are probably not the best options.

Let's start with the biggest misconception out there, which is that if a unit has high watts it will be ok or is good. Well, that couldn't be further from the truth.

There are plenty of 750-1000w units out there that I wouldn't trust to power a string of LED lights and might in fact be a much worse choice than a unit...
For your current system, your power supply is sufficient.

For the RX 570 upgrade, you will want a GOOD power supply that is capable of sustaining a minimum of 500w and has at least ONE 6+2 or 8 pin PCI power connector. If you are going to buy a NEW power supply, I would suggest you read the recommendations below to better educate yourself on which models are recommended and which are probably not the best options.

Let's start with the biggest misconception out there, which is that if a unit has high watts it will be ok or is good. Well, that couldn't be further from the truth.

There are plenty of 750-1000w units out there that I wouldn't trust to power a string of LED lights and might in fact be a much worse choice than a unit with a significantly lower listed capacity.

If the platform isn't good to begin with, how many watts or amps it says it can support is irrelevant.

Higher 80plus certification doesn't mean anything, UNLESS it is a PSU platform that we already know is good anyhow. For example, a Seasonic Prime platinum unit is going to be a better product than a Seasonic Prime Gold unit, because we already know the Prime platform is very good, and platinum efficiency along with it shows there are some improvements internally to account for the higher efficiency.

In a case like that, it might be worth it. It's likely the unit will create less heat, it will probably have better performance in regard to ripple, noise and voltage regulation. It might shave a few pennies, or dollars, off the electric bill over the course of a year.

Other than that, it is not going to perform any better than the same platform with Gold efficiency. On the other hand, just because a unit has Titanium 80plus ratings doesn't mean the unit is any good at all. For example, there are Raidmax units with Titanium efficiency and I wouldn't trust one of those to power a light bulb. There are a lot of units like this out there.

If the platform isn't good to begin with, whether or not it has an 80plus certification or is irrelevant.

Whatever you do, don't EVER buy a power supply based on whether it has RGB or lighting, or looks like it might be a quality unit. Some of the biggest hunks of junk out there look just as good as a Seasonic Prime Ultra Titanium, but I assure you, they are not. So far there are very few very good units out there that have RGB built in. Maybe one or two models, but rest assured you'll be be paying for the lighting, not for the quality of the power supply.

I don't know what country you reside in, and I know that sometimes it's hard to come by good units in some regions, but when possible, when it comes time to get that PSU, I'd stick to the following if you can.

Seasonic. Seasonic isn't just a brand, they are a PSU manufacturer, unlike many of the PSU brands you see they make their own power supply platforms AND a great many of the very good PSU models out there from other brands like Antec, Corsair and older XFX are made by Seasonic.

Just about anything made by Seasonic is good quality for the most part. There are really no bad Seasonic units and only a very few that are even somewhat mediocre. They do make a few less-good quality OEM style units, but mostly those are not going to be units you come across at most vendors, and they are still not bad. Also, the S12II and M12II 520 and 620w units are older, group regulated models. At one time they were among the best units you could buy. Now, they are outdated and not as good as almost any other Seasonic models. They are however still better than a LOT of newer designs by other manufacturers.

The Seasonic 520w and 620w S12II/M12II units CAN be used on newer Intel platforms, if you turn off C6/C7 in the bios, but I'd really recommend a newer platform whenever possible. Prices are usually pretty good on those though, so sometimes it's worth accepting the lack of DC-DC on the internal platform. Higher capacity versions of the High current gamer are not based on that platform, so they are fine. Those being the 750w and higher versions.

Most common currently, in order of preference, would be the Seasonic Focus series, then Focus plus, then Prime, then Prime ultra. It's worth mentioning that there are generally Gold, Platinum and Titanium versions within each, or most, of those series, but that does not necessarily mean that a Focus plus Platinum is necessarily better than a Prime Gold. It only means that it scored better in the 80plus efficiency testing, not that the platform is better.

Again, don't let yourself get tangled up in the idea that a higher 80plus rating specifically means that it is a better unit than another one with a lower rating, unless you know that it is a good platform from the start. All these Focus and Prime units are pretty good so you can somewhat focus on the 80plus rating when deciding which of them to choose.

Super Flower. Super Flower is another PSU manufacturer. They are like Seasonic and they make power supplies for a variety of other companies, like EVGA. Super Flower units are usually pretty good. I'd stick to the Leadex, Leadex II and Golden Green models.They also make most of the good units sold by EVGA like the G2, G3, P2 and T2 models.

Super Flower doesn't have a very broad availability for the units with their own brand name on them, and are not available in a lot of countries but for those where there is availability you want to look at the Leadex and Leadex II models. The Golden green platform is fairly decent too but is getting rather long in the tooth as a platform AND I've seen some reviews indicating a few shortcomings on units based on this platform.

Even so, it's a great deal better than a lot of other platforms out there so you could certainly do worse than a Golden green model. Units based on the Leadex and Leadex II platforms are much better though.

Corsair. The CX and CXm units are ok as a budget option, but I do not recommend pairing them with gaming cards. The newer 2017 models of CX and CXm are better than the older ones, but still not what we'd call terrific, so if it specifically says 2017 model, or it has a capacity other than an even 100, like 550w, 650w, 750w, etc., then it's likely at least better than those older ones. Aside from that, any of the TX, RMx, RMi, HX, HXi, AX or AXi units are good. Those are listed from best to worst, with the best being the AX and AXi units.

Antec. The True power classic units are made by Seasonic, and are very good, but are not modular. The High current gamer 520w and 620w, or any other PSU you see on the market that is 520w or 620w, are also made by Seasonic, based on the S12II and M12II platform for modern versions, and are pretty good units but again they are an older platform that is group regulated so if you go with a Haswell or newer Intel configuration you will want to avoid those because they do not support the C6/C7 Intel low power states.

The Antec High current gamer 750w and 850w units are very good and are not the older design, which came in 520w and 620w capacities and were good for back then but again, are an aging Seasonic platform that is not the best choice most of the time these days. Occasionally, these older units MIGHT be the best unit available and you could do worse than one of them, but a newer DC-DC platform is desirable when possible if it doesn't mean sacrificing quality elsewhere in the platform. There are however older and newer HCG models, so exact model number will likely be a factor if choosing one of these however both the older models and the newer models are good.

Antec Edge units are ok too, but reviews indicate that they have noisy fan profiles. I'd only choose this model if it is on sale or the aesthetics match up with your color scheme or design. Still a good power supply but maybe a little aggressive on the fan profile. This may have been cured on newer Edge models so reading professional tear down reviews is still the best idea.

Antec Earthwatts Gold units are very good also.

BeQuiet. BeQuiet does have a few decent models, BUT, you must be VERY selective about which of their models you put your trust in. From model to model their are huge differences in both quality and performance, even with the same series. If you cannot find a review for a BeQuiet unit on HardOCP, JonnyGuru or Tom's hardware that SPECIFICALLY says it is a very good unit, and does not have any significant issues in the "cons" category, I would avoid it. In fact, I'd probably avoid it anyhow unless there is a very great sale on one that has good reviews, because their units are generally more expensive than MUCH better units from Antec, Seasonic, EVGA and Corsair.

EVGA. They have BOTH good and not very good models.

Not very good are the W1, N1, B1, B3 (Most models failed testing), BQ, BR, BT and G1 NEX models.

Good models are the B2, G2, G2L, G3, GQ, P2 and T2 models.

FSP. They used to be very mediocre, and are a PSU manufacturer like Seasonic and Super Flower, although not as well trusted based on historical performance. Currently the FSP Hydro G and Hydro X units are pretty good.

I would avoid Thermaltake and Cooler Master.

They do have a few good units, but most of the models they sell are either poor or mediocre, and the ones they have that ARE good are usually way overpriced.

This is just ONE example of why I say that. Very new and modern CM unit. One of the worst scores ever seen on JonnyGuru for a well known brand name product. Doesn't look to be much better than a Raidmax unit. Sad.

Cooler Master Masterwatt Lite 600W review

And most of the models I have linked to the reviews of at the following link are at least good, with most of them being fantastic.

Power supply discussion thread

The Powerspec units sold my Microcenter are a mixed bag. Some of them are fairly decent using the same platform as the Sirfa High power astro lite platform, so not total dumpster fire type units, but not particularly good either, and some of their units are simply garbage and should be listed below in the DO NOT USE category, but I'm leaving them out because there are really no reviews of them and since there are a few units from them that are ok-ish, I'm giving them a "use at your own discretion but buy a better model if you can" grade.

A gray label CX or CXm unit would probably be an upgrade from one of those Powerspec models, without any doubt.

Certainly there ARE some good units out there that you won't see above among those I've listed, but they are few and far between, much as a hidden nugget of gold you find in a crevice among otherwise ordinary rocks and don't EVER assume a unit is good just because of the brand.

If you cannot find an IN DEPTH, REPUTABLE review on Tom's hardware, JonnyGuru, HardOCP, Hardware secrets (Old reviews by Gabe Torres), Kitguru (Only Aris reviews), TechPowerUP, SilentPC crew or a similar site that does much more than simply a review of the unboxing and basic tests that don't include reliable results for ripple, noise, voltage regulation and a complete teardown of the unit including identification of the internal platform, then the unit is a big fat question mark.

I recommend not trusting such units as companies generally always send out review samples of any unit they feel is going to get a good review, and don't send them out if they know they are going to get hammered by the reviewer. No review usually equals poor quality. Usually.


Other models that should never be trusted OR USED AT ALL, under any circumstances, include

Acbell, A-Top, AK Power, Alpine, Apevia, Apex (Supercase/Allied), Artic, Ace, Aerocool (There might be one model worth using, but I'd still avoid them.), Aspire (Turbocase), Atadc, Atrix, Broadway com corp, Chieftech, Circle, CIT, Coolmax, Deer, Diablotek, Dynapower, Dynex, Eagletech, Enlight, Eurotech, Evo labs, EZ cool, Feedtek, Foxconn, G7, HEC/Compucase Orion, HEDY, High power, iBall, iStar computer co., Jeantec, JPac, Just PC, Kolink, LC Power, Linkworld electronics, Logisys, Macron, MSI, NmediaPC, Norwood Micro (CompUSA), Okia, Powercool, Powmax, Pulsepower, Q-tec, Raidmax, Rave, Rocketfish, Segotep, SFC, Sharkoon, Shuttle, Skyhawk, Spire, Startech, Storm, Sumvision, Tesla, Trust, Ultra, Wintech, Winpower, Xilence (Until I see a reputable review of a model showing different), xTreme (Cyberpower), Youngbear and Zebronics.
 
Solution
1.21 jiggawats!

Ok, nothing that extravagant. Honestly, a good 500W will power it all, but I'd get something like a 600W. It would be more efficient. Meaning that the power supply won't have to work as hard and won't get as hot while powering the system. The hotter a power supply gets the more resistance there is in the components and the more power it requires to provide the steady output. So, there is some advantage to going bigger. My rule of thumb is to find out what you are going to use at full tilt, then double it. That leaves you plenty of power, lands you well into the most efficient range of the PSU and gives you room to upgrade and most likely remain within the most efficient range. To add to that, some power supplies have a quiet mode where the fan won't spin until you reach a certain power draw.
 
Actually, a good 500w unit would do just that, because that card (Assuming the RX 570) won't draw more than 225w max (More like 195w under full torture testing in reviews for an OC model), and the rest of the system is going to pull less than 150w (Being very generous to the side of extensive power draw. In reality, it will likely pull far less than that) since that's a 65w CPU that under full load doesn't pull more than 50w in reality. In total that's only 375w theoretical maximum, and in reality it probably looks a lot more like 300w, which already gives you 200w headroom. Even a mediocre unit could probably manage that without breaking a sweat and any GOOD unit probably won't ever kick the fan on past low speed anyhow.
 

Manzonnie

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Aug 26, 2019
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Honestly just went down the power supply buy road and have found too high is never too much. If your power needs are 400w then get a 800w psu if you can afford one. That will cause your new psu to run at 50% capacity on full load conditions which shouldn't happen all the time. Also if you get a bigger psu you always have room for upgrades in the future. But mostly I run high level psu for the lowered stress on the psu which makes for less noise and a longer living component.
 
Actually, a good 500w unit would do just that, because that card (Assuming the RX 570) won't draw more than 225w max (More like 195w under full torture testing in reviews for an OC model), and the rest of the system is going to pull less than 150w (Being very generous to the side of extensive power draw. In reality, it will likely pull far less than that) since that's a 65w CPU that under full load doesn't pull more than 50w in reality. In total that's only 375w theoretical maximum, and in reality it probably looks a lot more like 300w, which already gives you 200w headroom. Even a mediocre unit could probably manage that without breaking a sweat and any GOOD unit probably won't ever kick the fan on past low speed anyhow.
Oh absolutely, I'm not going to argue anything there. It is just that when I buy power supplies I buy them for the computer I want, and not the computer that I have. I know I'm going to toss in some upgrades later. Say he upgrades to an i5 and an RTX 2070 sometime down the line, the 500W unit will still power it, but you'll be pushing up towards the upper end of the efficiency curve, with a bigger initial power supply he won't have that problem unless he throws in some pretty serious upgrades.

My last full system build (5 years ago) I got a 650W power supply, what I bought at the time only drew about 310W. Over the years I've upgraded many things and now I'm drawing 415-ish watts, and I didn't have to upgrade it, and I won't have to for my next build either. A power supply is a long life component. I've got 15 year old power supplies running in my older systems and they have lasted because I followed my rule of thumb. Buy a the power supply for the system you want, not the one you have.
 

Manzonnie

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Aug 26, 2019
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my system pulls about 330w and I just bought a 650w Corsair and I can't tell there is a psu there it's so quiet. Would have gotten bigger but that was in my budget.
 
If your power needs are 400w then get a 800w psu if you can afford one.

This, is complete nonsense. Period. Nobody ever needs an 800w power supply, with ANY system, unless they are running dual graphics cards or the very highest end graphics card AND overclocking both the CPU and graphics card. (Unless you're running an FX-9590 with an R9 290x or R9 290x2, in which case, you're probably an idiot anyhow.)

Even if you were running a 9900k and 2080 TI, a 600w power supply would be MORE than plenty so long as it was a quality unit. If you were overclocking both the CPU and graphics card with that same configuration, and I mean a very substantial overclock, then a 750w unit would be more than enough and if you wanted to have some additional headroom in that scenario THEN I could get behind running an 850w unit. But doubling the capacity on any quality unit beyond what is actually needed is pure nonsense and is simply a waste of money on the purchase of an expensive power supply that you don't need.

For the system being considered, which is not capable of having the CPU overclocked anyhow, you could never possibly use more than 375w and a 500w unit is already giving you 125w of headroom which is fairly extensive and is more than sufficient to account for both the percentage of overhead we like to see in order for it to land in the most efficient zone AND absorb some moderate overclocking of the graphics card IF they chose to do that which they would most probably not do anyhow, but could, if they should choose to. At the VERY most, I'd never recommend anything higher than a 550w unit for a configuration like this unless they knew FOR SURE they might be ugprading to a graphics card that was a step or two up from the RX 570 that they mentioned and in that case a very good 650w unit would make sure that no matter what graphics card they chose, they would not only have more than enough to acccomodate the needs of the system but would also have some additional headroom for quieter and cooler operation as well because they never come anywhere close to that level of power draw based on very extensive review testing. End of story.
 

Manzonnie

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Aug 26, 2019
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You didnt read my next post it said if you can afford it. I didnt buy a 850w power supply cause it wasnt in my budget but bigger is better when ur talking power in this case. It will make your psu work less and in turn last longer.
 
Your power supply isn't going to last longer just because you have 400w more than what you need, compared to one that has only 100w more than what you need. Neither unit is going to suffer from being too close to the actual draw of the hardware. But if you like to spend money unnecessarily, that's fine. I personally wouldn't recommend spending money on a unit that is more than 200w above the requirements of your current hardware unless you know you are going to be upgrading soon to hardware with a higher requirement, in which case, then it makes sense to get a unit that gives you the same buffer above whatever that upgraded hardware would require.

Whether you can afford it or not doesn't really matter EITHER way. It makes no sense to spend double the amount of money on a car that can do 200mph when you KNOW you will never drive it at speeds higher than 65mph and will USUALLY not exceed 35mph going to and from the grocery store. Now, if you're mainly a freeway driver and tend to have a heavy foot, and don't mind paying a few speeding tickets now and then, and have a lot of disposable income, by all means, get the Lambo.