Question How often should you replace a wireless mouse?

[emitfudd]

I have a Logitech wireless mouse from around 2017. Lately it becomes unresponsive like the cursor just hesitates or gets stuck on the screen. If I turn the mouse off and on again with the switch it works normally again. I'm thinking the receiver might be going bad? I had the same exact issue with my wireless keyboard a while back. Never figured it out and got no answers from a post here. It just stopped happening at some point and has been working fine now. Mice are cheap. I suppose it would just be best to buy a new one and see if that stops the issue.

 

[Ralston18]

Have you replaced the mouse batteries?

Likewise for the keyboard.....?

 

[emitfudd]

Have you replaced the mouse batteries?

Likewise for the keyboard.....?

I replaced the mouse batteries very recently because I got a message on my screen that they were low. New batteries didn't help. The keyboard issue didn't resolve because of battery change either although I did replace the batteries since I have the older version of keyboard where you can actually access the batteries.

 

[Ralston18]

Will set aside weak batteries for the time being. However, I have seen problems with generic brand batteries and generally just set aside any such batteries without using them for expensive electronics. When used those batteries tend to lose their capability very quickly. Or worse start to corrode and leak.

= = = =

Reading back: Next time the problem occurs look in Reliability History/Monitor and Event Viewer.

Either one or both tools may be capturing some error code, warning, or even an informational event just before or at the time the mouse becomes unresponsive.

Reliability History is user friendly and the timeline formati may reveal some pattern to it all.

Event Viewer requires more time and effort to navigate and understand.

To help:

https://forums.tomshardware.com/threads/how-to-use-windows-10-event-viewer.2752289/

Be sure to take a look at the details regarding any entries. The details may or may not prove helpful.

 

[Colif]

Try a clean boot and see if it changes the mouses behaviour - make sure to read instructions and make sure NOT to disable any microsoft services or windows won't load right - https://support.microsoft.com/en-au/help/929135/how-to-perform-a-clean-boot-in-windows

It doesn’t delete anything, it just stops non Microsoft programs running with start. Easy to reverse.

if clean boot fixes it, it shows its likely a startup program. You should, over a number of startups. restart the programs you stopped to isolate the one that is to blame.

 

[emitfudd]

Will set aside weak batteries for the time being. However, I have seen problems with generic brand batteries and generally just set aside any such batteries without using them for expensive electronics. When used those batteries tend to lose their capability very quickly. Or worse start to corrode and leak.

= = = =

Reading back: Next time the problem occurs look in Reliability History/Monitor and Event Viewer.

Either one or both tools may be capturing some error code, warning, or even an informational event just before or at the time the mouse becomes unresponsive.

Reliability History is user friendly and the timeline formati may reveal some pattern to it all.

Event Viewer requires more time and effort to navigate and understand.

To help:

https://forums.tomshardware.com/threads/how-to-use-windows-10-event-viewer.2752289/

Be sure to take a look at the details regarding any entries. The details may or may not prove helpful.

Hasn't happened for a few days now. I only use good batteries like Duracell or Energizer in the mouse. I also have a battery tester and check the new ones to make sure they are good. I put Eneloops in the keyboard.

 

[Ralston18]

Eneloops = 1.2 volts - correct?

Reference:

https://www.amazon.com/Panasonic-BK-3MCCA4BA-eneloop-Pre-Charged-Rechargeable/dp/B00JHKSN76

(I had to use the" Looking for specific info box" and use the word voltage to get the voltage.)

Sort of interesting that the voltage was not right up front in the specs.

= == =

Voltage:

Check the mouse specs for recommended/supported batteries and required battery voltage. The mouse may not work well with rechargeables and needs a steady 1.5 v.

= = = =

Battery source:

As for source - that may be a concern because the batteries could be substandard, counterfeit, or just simply degraded by improper storage somewhere.

FYI: Initially found one comment regarding batteries dated 2016 being sold by Amazon but could not find the comment again when looking back.

 

[emitfudd]

Eneloops = 1.2 volts - correct?

Reference:

https://www.amazon.com/Panasonic-BK-3MCCA4BA-eneloop-Pre-Charged-Rechargeable/dp/B00JHKSN76

(I had to use the" Looking for specific info box" and use the word voltage to get the voltage.)

Sort of interesting that the voltage was not right up front in the specs.

= == =

Voltage:

Check the mouse specs for recommended/supported batteries and required battery voltage. The mouse may not work well with rechargeables and needs a steady 1.5 v.

= = = =

Battery source:

As for source - that may be a concern because the batteries could be substandard, counterfeit, or just simply degraded by improper storage somewhere.

FYI: Initially found one comment regarding batteries dated 2016 being sold by Amazon but could not find the comment again when looking back.

I only use the eneloops in the keyboard and they are the same as the original batteries. I use regular non rechargeable Energizer or Duracell in the mouse and have had this mouse since 2017 or so with no problems until recently.

 

[Ralston18]

6 year old mouse. Mouse may be nearing or at its' designed in EOL (End of Life). Either the mouse as a whole or some component within.

= = = =

Try other known working mice to determine if the problem continues.

Try the current mouse on another known working computer.

Determine if the problem remains with the computer or follows the mouse.