Why do you want the pump at 100%?
What motherboard do you have?
The pump will increase as temperatures increase.
Cause that’s how it’s supposed to be? I want temps as low as possible since the pump kind of needs to be at 100% for circulation. I don’t want it to increase as temperatures increase. It’s like at 50% judging by the temps I’m getting
That’s the thing, I have it plugged it into the CPU_FAN header, I don’t have an AIO_PUMp header, so I’m trying to find a way I can leave it on it 100% using the CPU_FAN Header, since I know people have done it. I have the acre h170 pro gaming motherboardWhat are your specs?
Does your motherboard have an AIO Pump header pin?
Also sorry I was thinking of the fans. If you have it in the correct header it'll default to 100% and just plug the fans connected to the AIO in the CPU FAN header.
That’s the thing, I have it plugged it into the CPU_FAN header, I don’t have an AIO_PUMp header, so I’m trying to find a way I can leave it on it 100% using the CPU_FAN Header, since I know people have done it
so, i have it plugged in the cpu_fan and there is absolutely no option that says “pump” or “AIO” for fan control. I am in ez mode and went to qfan config and set cpu fan to 100% and my actual cpu fan increased in rpm since I literally heard it spin louder even though the pump is in cpu_fan and the actual cpu fan is in CPU_OPT so I don’t really know what to do. A STEP BY STEP guide would be really helpful though. Ik I’m not getting 100% bc 1. It’s literally almost inadauible, not saying that it would be a jet engine at full speed, 2. Other people with the same card and a normal 120mm AIO just like mine don’t reach over 48c under max load and idle in 20s after a long time of gaming, I get close to 63c and idle high 30s.Ok. Hold up before things get funky lol.
You don't need a aio_Pump header, at all. Never have. Aios are rated to run from any fan header, same as a fan. There's 2 basic kinds of aios ones that use Sata power and ones that do not.
The ones with only header power have 2 ways to install. 99% of all factory instructions will tell you to install the pump to cpu_fan and the fan to any sys_fan header. This is done because the life expectancy of the pump is smaller than that of the fan, so IF the pump fails it will set off an alarm in the cpu and the cpu will shut down the pc automatically to prevent damage. However, that puts fan control on the motherboard temp sensor, which is next to useless.
The other way, which is the preferred method for any user outside of being fastidious to adherence to factory directions is to put the pump on a sys_fan header and the fan being controlled by cpu_fan header, so the fan speeds up/down according to cpu temps. The pump should be set in bios to run 100% because almost all pumps are not rated nor designed for variable speed usage. They are designed for a constant 12v.
So to answer the question, in most bios you'll find a section for fan adjustment, on my Asus it's at the bottom of the second tab. You would set the duty cycle for cpu at Minimum for 100%, Maximum will be default 100%.
But honestly, I'd use the fan on cpu, pump on sys. It works better that way. Use Coretemp or Realtemp to keep a cpu temp number in the Taskbar info where it's easily watched (right hand side next to the clock)
Only difference in bios setting would be to allow qFan on cpu to be silent, standard or performance etc, and qFan for the sys_fan header with the pump will be disabled and have 100% min/max
? Same card? I can understand loads reaching only 48, but idle in the 20's for either a cpu or gpu is only possible if the pc was about frigid cold. Case temps are about 6-12°C higher than room ambient temps, and cpus/gpus will be slightly warmer than that. Figure most average airflow or better will have a cpu at 32°C with an ambient of 22°C.2. Other people with the same card and a normal 120mm AIO just like mine don’t reach over 48c under max load and idle in 20s after a long time of gaming, I get close to 63c and idle high 30s.
People claimed they would get temps anywhere in the 20s when they put an120mm AIO on their GPU judging by a lot of Amazon reviews I saw. I’m gonna try and put that pump into one of the CHA_FANS and see if it’s actually increases the pump and get back to you? Same card? I can understand loads reaching only 48, but idle in the 20's for either a cpu or gpu is only possible if the pc was about frigid cold. Case temps are about 6-12°C higher than room ambient temps, and cpus/gpus will be slightly warmer than that. Figure most average airflow or better will have a cpu at 32°C with an ambient of 22°C.
Those temps in the 20's means room temps in the teens, and 15°C (25°C cpu) is 59°F in the room!
Even though that may be true, I have watched many videos of people using 120mm aios on their GPU and getting less than 50c under max load I’m getting +10 and pump speed is at 100%I have a custom loop with a 280mm rad. my idle temps are mid 30s. A single 120 rad, I seriously doubt could keep temps that low on anything more than a low power CPU(less than 40W). If I run my fans at full I can pull the fluid temp down to around 30C sometimes lower in the winter. That puts the CPU temp in the low 30s at idle.
Amazon reviews have been known to carry false reports. Manufacturers pay random people on the internet to post a fake review or 10.
Air and liquid cooling can never go below ambient room temperatures (its impossible), so if they are seeing 20C idle temps, they either have a very cold room or they have a sensor issue...or they're lying. If the room warms up that the PC resides in, your idle temps will go up also...this is a property of thermodynamics and cooling delta of the cooler being used.People claimed they would get temps anywhere in the 20s when they put an120mm AIO on their GPU judging by a lot of Amazon reviews I saw. I’m gonna try and put that pump into one of the CHA_FANS and see if it’s actually increases the pump and get back to you
You may be correct but the thing is i see multiple reviews on amazon that put the 120mm aio in the same place, can have the same mid-tower gaming case, and almost same airflow as mine, and the same ambient temp and they will never exceed 47c max. So that brought me to the conclusion that it has to be fans, thermal paste, or screws. Like it literally have almost the same idle temp AS MY FE REFERENCE COOLER. For example, this is a review i found on amazonAh. There's multiple other factors besides hardware choice. He doesn't really go into how the gpu is setup, how the airflow and ambient temps of a test bench affects the airflow and temps inside your case etc. His point isn't the actual temps the cooler is capable of, his point is the comparison between what he started out with vs what he ended up with vs how much performance gain the gpu saw and is capable of.
If stock you saw 90°C, his numbers would show you'd be closer to 70°C ish with the upgrade. That just says you have an extra 20°C to play with, not that you will hit the 67°C he did etc.
On a test bench, assume the room is a more comfortable 20°C. The inside of your case will be closer to 30°C. You cannot cool an object below ambient temp by mechanical means. It's impossible. You can't blow 30°C air through a rad and expect the gpu to be at 20°C. Only a chemical process like phase change, LN2, peltier etc is capable of that feat. So idle at best will be closer to 30°C no matter what his video shows. You'd have to mount that aio as intake and be using 20°C air to lower the gpu temp at idle, but even then the gpu has its limits, it's electronic and gives off a certain amount of heat.
Your temps went down. That's the purpose of the better cooling. Not matching a pc that's setup and tested differently to yours.
Also have to figure fan speed. Unless you manually set the fan speed for 100% (not pump), your fan will be controlled by the cpu temp, since it's on the cpu header. So fan speeds will vary according to cpu loads, not gpu loads. The way around that is to use an adapter to change the mini molex the gpu uses for the stock fans and plug in the rad fan to that connection. Then the rad fan will vary in speeds according to gpu temps, not cpu temps. Then you can adjust the gpu fan curve using PrecisionX or Afterburner to get temps and curves you are comfortable having for the gpu and your usage.
Didnt expect you to reply that fast, i made some edits with what i said, take a look at it. BTW i do use noctua nt-h1, i even put aluminum and copper heatsinks on the vrm/vram and i get way higher temps then these people, what is happening.Might be. I personally like the Noctua paste, it's right at the top of the performance charts along with the Thermal Grizzly, Phanteks, Gelid pastes. For a cpu that has an IHS with its own Tim underneath . For a gpu, that has direct die, all chipset, no IHS, no other Tim. Many people prefer Arctic MX-4 for that as it's a little thicker, more viscous and doesn't push out from the die as easily.
And don't overtighten the screws, they only need to be good and snug, after they are fully seated it's on the bracket to hold pressure, the screws just need to hold the bracket in place.
Fans are funky. The best rad fan ever for an aio radiator was the Scythe Gentle Typhoon. It had mediocre cfm and mediocre static pressure, but that exact combination was the perfect ratio for the rad. Increase either cfm or sp and performance got worse, air moved too fast through the fins or not fast enough and that affected the fins dissipative efficiency, and could become a disadvantage. But finding an original design Scythe GT is next to impossible nowadays, although there are many clones, even the Noctua A12x25 has a similar design now, somewhat different fan blade from the GTs biggest competition, the Noctua NF-F12.
Matching the fan to the rads properties is what's most important, not assuming a rad is a rad and therefore must have the highest sp and cfm available. Stock rad fans generally come close to decent, but can usually be improved upon using a different brand. The trick is to find what brand and model works best for that rad, not which is the best fan for sp/cfm.
True, but i also see people who Oc their cards and i still get higher temps than them so it would be obvious to assume they are on "prefer maximum performance" in NVCP, and obviously didnt undervolt their cards. My card is at stock in msi afterburner. And even on the amazon reviews many reviews there card was running over 80c and then when they installed a 120mm AIO under 50c, like I ran cooler than there cards when I had my original FE cooler, it doesn’t make any sense to me.You didn't do anything wrong. Your temps are fine. For all you know dude undervolted his card from stock, which is common for the 1080ti as it did run hot. There's a lot of variables that are different and you are stuck on a specific. Stop. You have no clue as to exactly what his global settings are, we're they set for quality or performance in NVCP, did he have buffers lowered, pre-renders changed from default 3 to 1 or any of a hundred other variables added/disabled. You got what was needed, a pretty drastic drop in temps. You are assuming his final temp is what is relevant. It isn't. What's relevant is the drop itself.
Oh, I have a Corsair H55, it's set for 12v 100% duty cycle, figure it's at 100% any which way you want to. It's rpm as notated by bios, Cam, SpeedFan, Asus Suite is 2400rpm±.
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