Question I built a new computer, and it experiencing some issues where it reboots and shuts off randomly.

May 20, 2019
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Sometimes, it will sort of reboot completely without me directing it to reboot. This can happen while doing anything, from playing a game to checking my email.

The second issue i am experiencing is where my computer sort of half-shuts down. The HDMI will not work (from either GPU or CPU), nor will the mouse, keyboard, or case buttons. However, the mobo and case are still receiving power and are clearly not shut down. My only way to circumvent this issue is to hit the switch on the PSU and power down the entire thing, then switch the power back on where it starts normally.

if anyone has any suggestions as to what this could be I would greatly appreciate it!
 

PC Tailor

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Please post your entire system spec including PSU make and model.

Random reboots are initially indicative of a power issue, and is usually the PSU. Swapping the PSU out for a known working one will identify if it is the issue. It could be other things, but this is the first thing I would go to without more information.
 
May 20, 2019
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Build:

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 2700x
Mobo: ASUS x470 pro
Graphics: EVGA Geforce GTX 1070ti
PSU: EVGA SuperNOVA 650 G1+ 650W 80 Plus Gold


I suspect you're correct, but I am confused by the fact that some components appear to still be receiving power. Is this common with underpowered PSUs? I do not have a working PSU that is at or above that wattage, but I can get a hold of a backup if I need to.
 
Someone will probably say I'm wrong, but I don't believe a 650W PSU is enough for that build. A very high quality PSU maybe, but even then you're near the top of the PSU abilities.

Computers need stable power, not just average power. Imagine you're using your car's battery and alternator...this can easily push enormous amounts of power, but you'd never do it due to stability. Your computer cares about voltage fluctuations over fractions of a microsecond, and this is why it is good to have PSU overkill even if on average it seems to be "good enough". You should try a beefier power supply if you can.
 

PC Tailor

Illustrious
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The 1070 Ti can pull usually around 180W, and NVIDIA recommend at least 500W - I would be comfortable saying that 650W is more than enough and your PSU should have the appropriate 12V rail amps, but doesn't mean the PSU still can't be faulty.

Can you confirm if the issue still occurs in safe mode?

Firstly I would also go through this guide and check everything, even bent pins on a CPU socket can cause this issue - go through every step even if you have covered them before, I know it can be tedious, but it really does solve 90% of problems):
Perform These Steps First

I suspect you're correct, but I am confused by the fact that some components appear to still be receiving power. Is this common with underpowered PSUs?
Very common, PSUs can still deliver power and appear to deliver power, but it has to be stable and of a sufficient amount, which if it isn't delivering, can easily cause random reboots.
 
May 20, 2019
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I will attempt running in Safe Mode and report back with whether or not the issue persists. I did do a reassembly too to check for bent pins and was unable to find any, and will review that checklist. Based on the feedback I am seeing, I suspect my PSU might just be a dud.
 
Hmmm. Just clear a few things up.

I agree with PC Tailor, it's highly likely it's the PSU. The EVGA G+ models (G1/GQ/G2/G3) are excellent PSU's. 650w is plenty for your build at stock and even room if you wanted to OC.

But, your PSU is about 5+ years old right? After time, the PSU will lose some of it's efficiency and very possibly power output too. It's not that your PSU is/was a dud, it's just run the course of it's life :) That's the way it goes.

The best thing you can do right now is not use your PC, get a new equivalent PSU (Another EVGA G2/G3 650w/Seasonic Focus plus 650w) otherwise you risk frying some components if your PSU worsens and blows something.

Something like this will be perfect:

PCPartPicker Part List

Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA G3 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($79.99 @ B&H)
Total: $79.99
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-05-23 13:40 EDT-0400


Also, your current system at stock won't even draw 450w from the wall. 650w is ample for that system with some to spare. Don't go bananas on a 750/850w or anything like that. You don't need it unless your insanely OC your CPU and GPU.
 
The 1070 Ti can pull usually around 180W, and NVIDIA recommend at least 500W - I would be comfortable saying that 650W is more than enough and your PSU should have the appropriate 12V rail amps, but doesn't mean the PSU still can't be faulty.

Can you confirm if the issue still occurs in safe mode?

Firstly I would also go through this guide and check everything, even bent pins on a CPU socket can cause this issue - go through every step even if you have covered them before, I know it can be tedious, but it really does solve 90% of problems):
Perform These Steps First


Very common, PSUs can still deliver power and appear to deliver power, but it has to be stable and of a sufficient amount, which if it isn't delivering, can easily cause random reboots.

Solid advice!
 
May 20, 2019
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So, some updates...

I went through the checklist supplied by PC Tailor, and attempted to use a separate PSU as well. After all of these attempts, I still experience the same issue. At this point, I rarely experience a full-on reboot, it is more of a half shutdown of sorts. The components that never seem to work are the graphics card (since the display disappears) the peripherals (the RGB turns off and both keyboard and mouse are nonresponsive) and the case (the buttons are nonresponsive). The motherboard RGB is still on and the CPU and case fans are also still on.

Based on this feedback, my only thought is that I need a more powerful PSU. Although it was stated by many of you that 650 should be enough, I am wondering if somehow there is an efficiency issue that is not controlled for by 650. Thanks to all for the advice, hopefully we can figure out the solution!
 
No, don't misunderstand. The PSU at 650w, is plenty powerful for your system. You do not need more power. You only need a 650w PSU that isn't 5 years old and supplies it's rated power :)

What PSU did you swap with? It's important as, if it was crappy, it could give the same issues as you had with your EVGA. I'ts possible your mobo has failed, but we are all telling you the same thing for a reason.

Time for a new PSU.
 
May 20, 2019
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I swapped with an EVGA Supernova 650 G3.

I went through the checklist supplied above, and none of the motherboard checks turned up any red flags, is there another way to check for mobo issues?
 
May 20, 2019
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I have not tried monitoring the temps, I can do that and report back as well. I will also check the BIOS.

What I can say is that I do not overclock, nor do I put either the CPU or GPU through much stress at all. It may also be worth mentioning that this issue can occur at any time, whether I am just browsing a forum or running GTAV (which is the most GPU/CPU intensive game that I have played with this machine).

If the issue is a motherboard issue, would the computer still show signs of power to certain components? I suspected at the beginning it may be a mobo issue because of the lack of responsiveness from my keyboard/mouse/case buttons, but I also wasn't sure because there were still LEDs lit on the motherboard and on some components.
 

PC Tailor

Illustrious
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If the issue is a motherboard issue, would the computer still show signs of power to certain components? I suspected at the beginning it may be a mobo issue because of the lack of responsiveness from my keyboard/mouse/case buttons, but I also wasn't sure because there were still LEDs lit on the motherboard and on some components
A faulty motherboard can display these symptoms yes. It can appear perfectly fine but in reality it may not be.
No comms with the peripherals can also be BIOS / driver related.

But the fact that it still occurs in safe mode (If I read your previous post correctly and you tried safe mode) - it's more likely hardware.