Question I can't get my MB to post

[wilmaybee]

I need some help please. I bought a new MB and it will not post. The ram lights up. The CPU fan doesn't come on. The BIOS screen doesn't come up. Here are the new pieces I have installed. It has a 550 watt PS. The MB speaker doesn't beep.
GIGABYTE B550M DS3H AC V 1.3

SN 224950068425

AMD - Ryzen 5 4600G

G.SKILL Trident Z Neo F4-3200C16D-16GTZN

Thanks

 

[Lutfij]

When posting a thread of troubleshooting nature, it's customary to include your full system's specs. Please list the specs to your build like so:
CPU:
CPU cooler:
Motherboard:
Ram:
SSD/HDD:
GPU:
PSU:
Chassis:
OS:
Monitor:

It has a 550 watt PS.
Might want to include the make and model of the PSU, apart from stating just it's advertised wattage. If the unit is recycled from an older system, please include it's age as well. Which slots are you populating with the sticks of ram? Looking up the CPU support list for that motherboard, you just need BIOS version F1, which is factory release to be able to get the system to POST.

 

[wilmaybee]

When posting a thread of troubleshooting nature, it's customary to include your full system's specs. Please list the specs to your build like so:
CPU:
CPU cooler:
Motherboard:
Ram:
SSD/HDD:
GPU:
PSU:
Chassis:
OS:
Monitor:

It has a 550 watt PS.
Might want to include the make and model of the PSU, apart from stating just it's advertised wattage. If the unit is recycled from an older system, please include it's age as well. Which slots are you populating with the sticks of ram? Looking up the CPU support list for that motherboard, you just need BIOS version F1, which is factory release to be able to get the system to POST.

OK, hope this helps.

CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 4600G - NEW
CPU cooler: Cooling Device Wraith Stealth - NEW
Motherboard: GIGABYTE B550M DS3H AC V 1.3 - NEW
Ram: G.SKILL Trident Z Neo F4-3200C16D-16GTZN - 3 MOS OLD
SSD/HDD: SEAGATE BARRACUDA 2GB - SATA - 3 YEARS OLD
GPU: Integrated Graphics AMD Radeon Graphics - Ryzen 5 4600G - NEW
PSU: - HIG POWER MODEL HPG-550ST-14C - 550W - 3 MOS OLD
Chassis: MID TOWER - 3 MOS OLD
OS: Windows 11
Monitor: LG 32 INCH HDMI - 3 MOS OLD

In response to your BIOS version F1 how would I know what it is? I can't get anything at all on the screen when booting up. The only thing I can see is the RAM lighting up, nothing else.

 

[Lutfij]

PSU: - HIG POWER MODEL HPG-550ST-14C - 550W
Is this your PSU
https://www.highpowersupply.com/HP550G14S.html
?

how would I know what it is?
F1 is first release, meaning even if your board was on the oldest BIOS possible known to that chipset, you'd still be able to POST with everything that you have(minus that dodgy looking PSU).

 

[wilmaybee]

PSU: - HIG POWER MODEL HPG-550ST-14C - 550W
Is this your PSU
https://www.highpowersupply.com/HP550G14S.html
?

how would I know what it is?
F1 is first release, meaning even if your board was on the oldest BIOS possible known to that chipset, you'd still be able to POST with everything that you have(minus that dodgy looking PSU).

It appears to be the same.... my model number is different so I am not sure if this is exact. MODEL HPG-550ST-14C

 

[digitalgriffin]

In response to your BIOS version F1 how would I know what it is? I can't get anything at all on the screen when booting up. The only thing I can see is the RAM lighting up, nothing else.

BIOS version is sometimes stamped on the bo

Reduce to 1 RAM stick in slot A1. Reseat it. Pull battery clear CMOS pull power. Hold down power for a couple seconds. Reinsert CMOS battery.

 

[wilmaybee]

BIOS version is sometimes stamped on the bo

Reduce to 1 RAM stick in slot A1

the only thing on the box is revision 1.3
so what PSU do you recommend?
So something else I noticed is that this MB has Q FLASH. I read some where in a post about this MB that in order to use Q FLASH you have to install a PSU that supports it. I have never used Q FLASH so I have no idea what that's about.

 

[wilmaybee]

BIOS version is sometimes stamped on the bo

Reduce to 1 RAM stick in slot A1. Reseat it. Pull battery clear CMOS pull power. Hold down power for a couple seconds. Reinsert CMOS battery.

OK did all that. Now when I turn the power on the ram lights up and the CPU fan runs. Still no post screen.

 

[wilmaybee]

the only thing on the box is revision 1.3
so what PSU do you recommend?
So something else I noticed is that this MB has Q FLASH. I read some where in a post about this MB that in order to use Q FLASH you have to install a PSU that supports it. I have never used Q FLASH so I have no idea what that's about.

So I went ahead and orderd a new PSU. Comments? Thermaltake Smart 700W 80+ White Certified PSU, Continuous Power with 120mm Ultra Quiet Fan, ATX 12V V2.3/EPS 12V Active PFC Power Supply PS-SPD-0700NPCWUS-W (amazon.com)

 

[digitalgriffin]

So I went ahead and orderd a new PSU. Comments? Thermaltake Smart 700W 80+ White Certified PSU, Continuous Power with 120mm Ultra Quiet Fan, ATX 12V V2.3/EPS 12V Active PFC Power Supply PS-SPD-0700NPCWUS-W (amazon.com)

It will do. Not the best or worst. It is acceptable for your application. However 750W is overkill unless you add a video card in the future.

Do the CPU fans run full tilt loud then slow down on startup? That's a sign the CPU is booting and providing data for the fans. This would point to a connector problem.

Do you by chance see any blinking hdd lights when you power up? How are you connecting the video up? Are you sure you are fully inserted in the slot? On my 3400g and 2400g I have to push the DP connector in real good to the header. It's because the shield doesn't perfectly align with the port requiring a little jiggling to get it to firmly seat.

Next stupid question: (And forgive me for asking this as I do stupid things even as a seasoned assembler) Are you sure you are on the right video input on the monitor and the cable firmly seated? Did you swap out the cable?

 

[wilmaybee]

It will do. Not the best or worst. It is acceptable for your application. However 750W is overkill unless you add a video card in the future.

Do the CPU fans run full tilt loud then slow down on startup? That's a sign the CPU is booting and providing data for the fans. This would point to a connector problem.

Do you by chance see any blinking hdd lights when you power up? How are you connecting the video up? Are you sure you are fully inserted in the slot? On my 3400g and 2400g I have to push the DP connector in real good to the header. It's because the shield doesn't perfectly align with the port requiring a little jiggling to get it to firmly seat.

Next stupid question: (And forgive me for asking this as I do stupid things even as a seasoned assembler) Are you sure you are on the right video input on the monitor and the cable firmly seated? Did you swap out the cable?

The CPU fan runs really slow, NOT full tilt as is normal on start up. NO blinking HD lights. In fact there is NO noise coming from the HD as would be expected if it were spinning. Yes the HDMI cable is fully inserted, just rechecked it. I only have one input on my monitor, so yes it is also correct. I am suspecting the power supply is not producing enough power, but of course I am not sure. Any other suggestions would be welcomed?

 

[John Chesterfield]

So I went ahead and orderd a new PSU. Comments? Thermaltake Smart 700W 80+ White Certified PSU, Continuous Power with 120mm Ultra Quiet Fan, ATX 12V V2.3/EPS 12V Active PFC Power Supply PS-SPD-0700NPCWUS-W (amazon.com)

Sorry to say it, but a terrible quality unit. I'd think again. Maybe give a budget and country you're shopping in and people can make recommendations better than that thing. The above poster is incorrect saying not the best and not the worst, it's definitely in the category of being one of the worst. It's even more deceitful as it presents itself as being quality, but it's crap.

 

[John Chesterfield]

The above said, are you sure you have the 12v CPU power connected? Seems like a daft question, but it's a mistake made by quite a few builders.

 

[wilmaybee]

Sorry to say it, but a terrible quality unit. I'd think again. Maybe give a budget and country you're shopping in and people can make recommendations better than that thing. The above poster is incorrect saying not the best and not the worst, it's definitely in the category of being one of the worst. It's even more deceitful as it presents itself as being quality, but it's crap.

The MB says at least a 500 watt supply. I have used Thermaltake for years with no issues. All that being said, I just want a power supply that will do the job, without issues. This PC will never be upgraded to more than what it is right now. I don't have a budget, but was thinking somewhere around $100 would be able to get me what I need? Suggestions? I am in the USA.

 

[wilmaybee]

The above said, are you sure you have the 12v CPU power connected? Seems like a daft question, but it's a mistake made by quite a few builders.

Yes the 12v is connected, I actually considered that, and unplugged and replugged the connector in to make sure it was fully seated.

 

[digitalgriffin]

Sorry to say it, but a terrible quality unit. I'd think again. Maybe give a budget and country you're shopping in and people can make recommendations better than that thing. The above poster is incorrect saying not the best and not the worst, it's definitely in the category of being one of the worst. It's even more deceitful as it presents itself as being quality, but it's crap.

It falls under C tier which is acceptable. But with what he is using he won't get near anywhere stressing it. So it will work fine. I was trying to be a bit more polite about how I worded it.

 

[COLGeek]

Pull the CPU and check for bent/damaged/missing pins.

 

[DSzymborski]

The Thermaltake SMARTs are awful PSUs, but mainly awful because people actually try to use it like them as if they were competent PSUs. A lot of awful PSUs of this tier -- as opposed to the real no-name firestarter Alibaba junk -- are perfectly competent as basic office machines. It's a bad PSU, but it's perfectly fine 150W PSU, which is all it's expected to handle here at most.

Now, OP, if you ever do get ambitious with this PC or with another PC, then keep in mind that you do want something considerably better than this. When you start talking GPUs and high-powered CPUs that basically overclock themselves aggressively, then for Thermaltake, it's basically Toughpower or go to another brand.

 

[wilmaybee]

Pull the CPU and check for bent/damaged/missing pins.

pulled the CPU and inspected, NO bent or missing pins

 

[wilmaybee]

The Thermaltake SMARTs are awful PSUs, but mainly awful because people actually try to use it like them as if they were competent PSUs. A lot of awful PSUs of this tier -- as opposed to the real no-name firestarter Alibaba junk -- are perfectly competent as basic office machines. It's a bad PSU, but it's perfectly fine 150W PSU, which is all it's expected to handle here at most.

Now, OP, if you ever do get ambitious with this PC or with another PC, then keep in mind that you do want something considerably better than this. When you start talking GPUs and high-powered CPUs that basically overclock themselves aggressively, then for Thermaltake, it's basically Toughpower or go to another brand.

so what PSU do you recommend for this?

 

[digitalgriffin]

so what PSU do you recommend for this?

My go to psu are
Seasonic focus px or gx series 550w
Corsair CX and RM series each 550W (non modular cx are rated slightly higher than modular cx. But both are still long term reliable)
I have a cooler master master watts 750w which is also highly rated and good bang for buck


They will adequately power your system and even up to a 5700XT, 6600XT, or 3060ti with no real issues for YEARS. They come with 5 and 10 year warranties and they stand by them. My Corsair AX850 gold lasted 10 years before the rails became too noisy and it generated voltage spikes which sent the mb into power protect mode. If I replaced the paste caps, I'm sure it would be good to go for many more years.

General rule of thumb is rate your power supply at least 20% over your power usage rating.

 

[wilmaybee]

My go to psu are
Seasonic focus px or gx series 550w
Corsair CX and RM series each 550W (non modular cx are rated slightly higher than modular cx. But both are still long term reliable)
I have a cooler master master watts 750w which is also highly rated and good bang for buck


They will adequately power your system and even up to a 5700XT, 6600XT, or 3060ti with no real issues for YEARS. They come with 5 and 10 year warranties and they stand by them. My Corsair AX850 gold lasted 10 years before the rails became too noisy and it generated voltage spikes which sent the mb into power protect mode. If I replaced the paste caps, I'm sure it would be good to go for many more years.

General rule of thumb is rate your power supply at least 20% over your power usage rating.

OK I ordered this one... Corsair CX550F RGB, 550 Watt, 80 PLUS Bronze, Fully Modular RGB Power Supply (amazon.com)

 

[wilmaybee]

PSU: - HIG POWER MODEL HPG-550ST-14C - 550W
Is this your PSU
https://www.highpowersupply.com/HP550G14S.html
?

how would I know what it is?
F1 is first release, meaning even if your board was on the oldest BIOS possible known to that chipset, you'd still be able to POST with everything that you have(minus that dodgy looking PSU).

OK I am back, and still having the same problem. It will not post and nothing shows up on the monitor. No MB beep on the speaker. SO I Reduced to 1 RAM stick in slot A1. Reseat it. Pulled battery clear CMOS pull power. Hold down power for a couple seconds. Reinsert CMOS battery. No change. This is with the new PS Corsair CX550F RGB 550W.