I just bought these parts, and now inevitable noob questions.

locust lab · Feb 22, 2017

Okay....so first thing I am wondering, is if my Rosewill 600W RD600 will be enough power for this, which i just bought and is being shipped to my home:

i5-7600k
Cryorig H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler
GigaByte GA-Z270X-Ultra Gaming ATX LGA1151 Motherboard
Avexir Core Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory
Phanteks Enthoo Pro M ATX Mid Tower Case
Asus GTX 970 Strix OC 4gb DDR5 <----- already own this, pretty nice card
Rosewill RD600 600W PSU<--------------- already own this, nice PSU I guess, but wondering if it can run all the above plus G105 Keyboard, G502 Mouse, and AudioTechnica Mic without having power problems...

Then of course is the inevitable noob questions you came here for:

1. Does the CPU Cooler come with Thermal Paste already applied, and if so, should i leave it and use it as is, or apply my own?
2. If above equals apply own, what Thermal Paste should I get?
3. Will I need to buy a new copy of Windows 10, or can I already use the version I have installed on this computer that I am currently using, which already has my GTX970 Asus in it?
4. Should I buy more fans for that case? If so, how many can I get to fill all the bays? Not much information was available on Amazon.com for the amount of fans it can support.
5. When installing the Mobo, and all the electrical components, whats the best spot to put my hands, (I.E. how can I avoid frying it before I even use it.)
6. If 1 and 2 apply, how does one go about applying Thermal Paste properly?

I have taken parts and put them in computers (my HDD, my SSD, the GTX 970)
But I have never installed CPUs (which I'm really scared about screwing up a 250 friggen dollar part here) or motherboards, and Im really wondering how best I go about installing them. Keep one hand on the case? Magnetized screw driver or no?

TL;DR
if this is too long for you, you should go back to grade school, but heres a summary:
Im a noob, i dont wanna break shit. How do break shit, but what if not?

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Current Comp Specs:
AMD 8350 Vishera Black Edition, Stock Cooler, A960D+ Biostar SHIT Mobo (No vrm heatsinks, crap voltage), 3 140mm Fans, 1 front, 1 Back, 1 Top, Rosewill RD600 600W PSU, Asus Strix GTX 970 OC 4Gb DDR5, 1x 8Gb DDR3 1600 RAM

Temps: Currently runs around 35c, until gaming. Gets up to 65c when gaming, but gets really loud too. No temp on VRMs, or heatsink, but can tell VRMs are overheating because every thirty seconds on max load CPU Multiplier drops from 20x to 7x on all cores. obvious the VRMs are downclocking to reduce heat.

cdrkf · Feb 22, 2017

locust lab :

Ok to run through your questions:
0.1: Yes that power supply should be fine, The new i5 will use less power than the FX 8350.
1: CPU coolers often have thermal paste pre applied- if that's the case no problem, if not they should be supplied with some in a tube- follow the instructions
2: As above
3: If you change motherboard and CPU then technically you'll need a new copy of Windows 10- although if you are not going to use the old system anymore then you might be able to 'blag' it- install Windows on your existing key and contact Microsoft if it doesn't activate and explain you have a 'motherboard failure' and this is the replacement.
4: I'm not familiar with the case, although as a general rule if you are not pushing heavy over clocks 1 or 2 case fans is ample
5: So the way I build- make sure the PSU is fitted into the case and *plug it into the mains* (for safety turn the switch off). This will earth the case. Touching part of the exposed metal of the case should earth you so you can safely handle the motherboard. You'll need to position the motherboard mountings in the case first, then pre assemble all the major components onto the board before installing it- i.e. the cpu, ram and cooler. That helps to avoid bending the board once it's in the case. A note here- on Intel's latest cpu's the pins are in the motherboard socket rather than on the cpu- be gentle with the socket! Bent pins on the motherboard are really fiddly to sort out.

Magnetic screwdriver is a good idea (it helps if you drop screws), just keep it away from the mechanical HDD (whilst the magnetism is very weak it could in theory cause data corruption on a mechanical hdd).

Corwin65 · Feb 22, 2017

If you already have Windows 10, your key is linked to your microsoft log in.

It will activate once you log in.

Free transfer.

cdrkf · Feb 22, 2017

Corwin65 :

Is that how it works now with Windows 10? That's a much better system 😛 I've not actually rebuilt a machine already running on 10 yet.

Corwin65 · Feb 22, 2017

Yes easily a benefit of going to 10.

locust lab · Feb 22, 2017

Corwin65 :

Thats good to know, maybe i should log in heh

locust lab · Feb 22, 2017

cdrkf :

locust lab :

Ok to run through your questions:
0.1: Yes that power supply should be fine, The new i5 will use less power than the FX 8350.
1: CPU coolers often have thermal paste pre applied- if that's the case no problem, if not they should be supplied with some in a tube- follow the instructions
2: As above
3: If you change motherboard and CPU then technically you'll need a new copy of Windows 10- although if you are not going to use the old system anymore then you might be able to 'blag' it- install Windows on your existing key and contact Microsoft if it doesn't activate and explain you have a 'motherboard failure' and this is the replacement.
4: I'm not familiar with the case, although as a general rule if you are not pushing heavy over clocks 1 or 2 case fans is ample
5: So the way I build- make sure the PSU is fitted into the case and *plug it into the mains* (for safety turn the switch off). This will earth the case. Touching part of the exposed metal of the case should earth you so you can safely handle the motherboard. You'll need to position the motherboard mountings in the case first, then pre assemble all the major components onto the board before installing it- i.e. the cpu, ram and cooler. That helps to avoid bending the board once it's in the case. A note here- on Intel's latest cpu's the pins are in the motherboard socket rather than on the cpu- be gentle with the socket! Bent pins on the motherboard are really fiddly to sort out.

Magnetic screwdriver is a good idea (it helps if you drop screws), just keep it away from the mechanical HDD (whilst the magnetism is very weak it could in theory cause data corruption on a mechanical hdd).

Good to know on most of these,
on the CPU socket stuff, will there be an easy way to tell orientation? and gently set it in, or does it require a push?

cdrkf · Feb 22, 2017

locust lab :

cdrkf :

locust lab :

Ok to run through your questions:
0.1: Yes that power supply should be fine, The new i5 will use less power than the FX 8350.
1: CPU coolers often have thermal paste pre applied- if that's the case no problem, if not they should be supplied with some in a tube- follow the instructions
2: As above
3: If you change motherboard and CPU then technically you'll need a new copy of Windows 10- although if you are not going to use the old system anymore then you might be able to 'blag' it- install Windows on your existing key and contact Microsoft if it doesn't activate and explain you have a 'motherboard failure' and this is the replacement.
4: I'm not familiar with the case, although as a general rule if you are not pushing heavy over clocks 1 or 2 case fans is ample
5: So the way I build- make sure the PSU is fitted into the case and *plug it into the mains* (for safety turn the switch off). This will earth the case. Touching part of the exposed metal of the case should earth you so you can safely handle the motherboard. You'll need to position the motherboard mountings in the case first, then pre assemble all the major components onto the board before installing it- i.e. the cpu, ram and cooler. That helps to avoid bending the board once it's in the case. A note here- on Intel's latest cpu's the pins are in the motherboard socket rather than on the cpu- be gentle with the socket! Bent pins on the motherboard are really fiddly to sort out.

Magnetic screwdriver is a good idea (it helps if you drop screws), just keep it away from the mechanical HDD (whilst the magnetism is very weak it could in theory cause data corruption on a mechanical hdd).

Good to know on most of these,
on the CPU socket stuff, will there be an easy way to tell orientation? and gently set it in, or does it require a push?

It's fairly obvious which way to put it (from memory there are marks on 2 corners)- the CPU should include an installation leaflet I'd have a glance at that if you aren't sure. It should gently drop in place and sit flat, don't force it! Once it's in place, then it gets clipped down- just be 100% sure it's correctly positioned and sitting nicely before locking it and you'll be fine. I built an Intel system fairly recently and didn't have an issue, I've just heard a few horror stories about the socket pins getting damaged.

locust lab · Feb 22, 2017

cdrkf :

locust lab :

cdrkf :

locust lab :

Ok to run through your questions:
0.1: Yes that power supply should be fine, The new i5 will use less power than the FX 8350.
1: CPU coolers often have thermal paste pre applied- if that's the case no problem, if not they should be supplied with some in a tube- follow the instructions
2: As above
3: If you change motherboard and CPU then technically you'll need a new copy of Windows 10- although if you are not going to use the old system anymore then you might be able to 'blag' it- install Windows on your existing key and contact Microsoft if it doesn't activate and explain you have a 'motherboard failure' and this is the replacement.
4: I'm not familiar with the case, although as a general rule if you are not pushing heavy over clocks 1 or 2 case fans is ample
5: So the way I build- make sure the PSU is fitted into the case and *plug it into the mains* (for safety turn the switch off). This will earth the case. Touching part of the exposed metal of the case should earth you so you can safely handle the motherboard. You'll need to position the motherboard mountings in the case first, then pre assemble all the major components onto the board before installing it- i.e. the cpu, ram and cooler. That helps to avoid bending the board once it's in the case. A note here- on Intel's latest cpu's the pins are in the motherboard socket rather than on the cpu- be gentle with the socket! Bent pins on the motherboard are really fiddly to sort out.

Magnetic screwdriver is a good idea (it helps if you drop screws), just keep it away from the mechanical HDD (whilst the magnetism is very weak it could in theory cause data corruption on a mechanical hdd).

Good to know on most of these,
on the CPU socket stuff, will there be an easy way to tell orientation? and gently set it in, or does it require a push?

It's fairly obvious which way to put it (from memory there are marks on 2 corners)- the CPU should include an installation leaflet I'd have a glance at that if you aren't sure. It should gently drop in place and sit flat, don't force it! Once it's in place, then it gets clipped down- just be 100% sure it's correctly positioned and sitting nicely before locking it and you'll be fine. I built an Intel system fairly recently and didn't have an issue, I've just heard a few horror stories about the socket pins getting damaged.

ok, sounds good, thank goodness it seems to be easier than i worried

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I just bought these parts, and now inevitable noob questions.

locust lab

Distinguished

cdrkf

cdrkf

Judicious

Corwin65

Illustrious

cdrkf

Judicious

Corwin65

Illustrious

locust lab

Distinguished

locust lab

Distinguished

cdrkf

Judicious

locust lab

Distinguished

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