Solved! I would like opinions on this build.

snagglepus

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First let me state. I don't want AMD anything. Also I don't buy into high frequency ram for better gaming. If you have suggestions. Please it be only intel and nothing higher than 2666 ram.

I am trying for a build that would play most games of today on highest or close to highest settings. Is this build good for gaming? Trying for a price tag of $1300 or under.

CPU: Intel - Core i5-9600K 3.7 GHz 6-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Noctua - NH-C14S 82.52 CFM CPU Cooler
Motherboard: Gigabyte - Z390 UD ATX LGA1151 Motherboard
Memory: Kingston - FURY 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-2666 Memory
Storage: Samsung - 860 Evo 500 GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive
Video Card: EVGA - GeForce RTX 2070 8 GB Black Video Card
Case: Sentey - Blade ATX Mid Tower Case
Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA G3 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply
Case Fan: Antec - 75024 79 CFM 120mm Fan
 
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Barty1884

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Solid build and, while you might not buy into >2666MHz, the price difference with is negligible and frequently identical or cheaper. Not a huge deal though, 2666MHz is fine in the Intel front.

Is the SSD proposed your only drive?
 

snagglepus

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Solid build and, while you might not buy into >2666MHz, the price difference with is negligible and frequently identical or cheaper. Not a huge deal though, 2666MHz is fine in the Intel front.

Is the SSD proposed your only drive?
Not really. I have a Western Digital 1tb HDD already for storage and backup. It's only one year old. So I thought I don't need a new one.
 

Barty1884

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What is the "not really" aimed at? If the RAM comment, for example:
Kingston FURY - black heatspreader, 2666MHz, CL16 is $118.
Vs
G.Skill RipjawsV - black heatspreader, 3000MHz, CL16 is $110
Corsair LPX - black heatspreader, 3000MHz, CL16 is $100


As for the storage, I was just checking - as 500GB can be a little thin for a lot of people. A secondary 1TB HDD is a good plan.

Some other comments;
  1. For the money, (~$75), I don't love the C14S.
  2. Not sure what Antec PSU you're looking at?
  3. The Sentey Blade is a fairly budget case. It's not 'bad', I just feel it's out of place in a ~$1,300 build. A case is like 1% compatibility, 99% personal preference though.
For the money, I'd consider something along these lines:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel - Core i5-9600K 3.7 GHz 6-Core Processor ($259.99 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Noctua - NH-D15 82.5 CFM CPU Cooler ($89.95 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Gigabyte - Z390 UD ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($120.00 @ Amazon)
Memory: G.Skill - Aegis 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($84.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung - 860 Evo 500 GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($95.79 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA - GeForce RTX 2070 8 GB Black Video Card ($499.99 @ B&H)
Case: NZXT - H500 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($69.99 @ B&H)
Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA G3 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($69.89 @ OutletPC)
Total: $1290.59
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-02-13 10:00 EST-0500
 

snagglepus

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No on G-skill. Have always had bad luck with them.
Have always used kingston. Will look into the Corsair. A few questions for you.

1.For the money, (~$75), I don't love the C14S. ( Why? the reviews I have read and watched stated it is a good cooler especially if you plan to overclock and don't want to go with liquid cooled. )

2.Not sure what Antec PSU you're looking at? ( Not looking at a Antec PSU, it is a case fan. I went with an EVGA PSU. Is using PSU calculators sites work? Because I tried cooler masters, new eggs and a few others. Most said 550 would be ok, but new egg said I need a 650 because I would be pulling 626 watts. )

3.The Sentey Blade is a fairly budget case. It's not 'bad', I just feel it's out of place in a ~$1,300 build. A case is like 1% compatibility, 99% personal preference though. ( Not really a question. Your case wont work because I have a spare blu ray player and wont work with the case you suggested. )
 

Barty1884

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Brand bias/preference is fine, especially a negative against one brand only (however anecdotal the experience might be overall) - I was merely pointing out alternatives.
Opting for 2666MHz to save a buck or two, for minimum (if any) performance decrease is one thing, but when faster memory can be cheaper/the same price, it's a really tough standpoint to justify - Just my $.02, it's your money of course, so you can do what you want.

I didn't say the C14S was bad, but for the money, I don't think it's a great option. It's a $75 cooler which, while respectable, is getting up their in price - especially when the D15 is <20% more but performs a sizeable amount better (actual deltas vary review to review, but it's always a 'better').
For example, RelaxedTech had the D15 outperforming by ~8'C under load, while trading off 1-2DBA.
http://www.relaxedtech.com/reviews/noctua/nh-c14s/4
TechPowerUp only had a max 3'C benefit, for a 1-2DBA tradeoff.
https://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/Noctua/NH-C14S/6.html

Sorry, totally misread the PSU vs case fan. That's my bad. No, PSU calculator sites are generally pretty horrible estimates. They have to account for all manner of junk units in the wild. The system you proposed is never pulling 626W.
Absolute peak load (stock anyway) would be in the 500W range. Typical.. gaming etc load would be in the 400W range as an upper end. A quality 550W would be more than capable but, given the pricing of a quality 650W is barely more than a few dollars extra, the added headroom would be beneficial for overclocking & keeping you within the peak efficiency curve.

As for the case, as I mentioned it's mostly personal preference. If you need a 5.25" bay for a BR drive, then yeah, the H500 isn't going to work.
Not many modern, higher-tier offerings come with 5.25" bays these days....
The FocusG from Fractal Design comes to mind, as do a couple of others. Just to give you some examples/options:
 

snagglepus

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Thanks for the help. I will look into the ram and the computer case. Have one more question. I was told that if I go to microsofts website and download a tool to set up and windows 10 install from a usb key or dvd. That I could use my existing windows 7 key to activate windows 10. Is that actually true?
 

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