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More info?)
Oh, I see your point about DIP type connectors now.
I think I'm going to make life easier for myself and
use hookup wires with a female header socket at one end and
male on the other end similar to the ones mentioned here:
http://www.seetron.com/lcd_an2.htm#crimp under
"Breadboard and Proto Hookup" to connect the right angle pins to
the breadboard. Anyone know where I can find these?
I found larger yet cheaper breadboards here:
http://www.elexp.com/bb_104.htm,
http://www.elexp.com/bb_sb01.htm and
http://www.elexp.com/bb_3104.htm
Not sure if there are significant differences though.
Yes, they are big for the current project but
I might work on bigger projects later.
You're definitely right about the S&H costs.
The links were primarily used to make sure that
we're all on the same page.
"Fritz Oppliger" <fritzo_two_@direcway.com> wrote in message
news:8a1c55ab962566e7739ec401b48f8f93@news.teranews.com...
> On Sun, 27 Jun 2004 02:29:08 GMT, Adam <adam@no_thanks.com> wrote:
>
> >
> > It's not easy to disconnect and connect, IMHO, but
> > I guess 0.1" straight male headers like those found here:
> >
http://www.jameco.com/Jameco/Products/ProdCT/p077.pdf
> > could be used to connect the 26-pin socket connector to the breadboard.
>
> The square posts of the male headers are a tight fit for the breadboard
> But the problem IMHO is really that you have to span the 0.3in gap between
> arrays to get all signals to the board.
> The contacts on the board are thus:
> 11111__22222
> 33333__44444
> 55555__66666 etc.
> If you stick your header into the left column then you connect odd & even
> wires.
> The DIP type connectors can straddle the gap between columns.
> >
> > However, if I cannot find the ribbon cable with the 26-pin socket
> > connector,
> > I'll have to go with the ribbon cable with DB25 M-F from:
> >
http://www.jameco.com/Jameco/Products/ProdCT/p068.pdf and
> > connect the female end to
> > a DB25 male right angle PC mount (short type) connector (85-728) from
> > http://www.cnaweb.com/en-us/dept_25.html. I'm not sure how this
> > approach will work with the breadboard though.
>
>
> This may actually work if the right angle pins are long enough & can be
> bent apart to fit the two columns above.
> You'll have to do some bending anyways since the two rows are offset.
> Worth trying.
> >
> > I'm thinking about a solderless breadboard something like:
> > http://www.montek.com/catalog/item520.htm.
> > Any other suggestions?
>
> This looks rather fancy & way big for what I understand you want to do.
> I have one just like it.
>
> >
> > Did you say that the cables with DIP connectors require soldering?
> > Is there a way to work around soldering?
> >
> >
> No. The DIP connector cables I actually bought as readymade harness from
> DigiKey . When the needs changed I cut it apart in the middle & put other
> connectors to those ends.
> I figured if you're only dealing with 6 wires or so it is (for me) quicker
> to solder. If you do 25 wires that is another story.
>
> BTW if you shop from 3 different suppliers for onesies and twosies the
> shipping & handling cost is going to be brutal.
>
> Cheers