[SOLVED] i5-11600k CPU reading 0'c occasionally, in both Core Temp and HWMonitor. It doesn't last 'long', but it happens to EVERY core.

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ReignOfHell

ReignOfHell

Commendable
Aug 7, 2020
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Setup:
i5-11600k running normal 3.9-4.9 ghz, no OC, no XMP, CPU
MSI MPG Z590 Gaming Plus Motherboard
G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 32GB DDR4 3200hz Ram (16 CAS , running at 2133 mhz)
MSI 1650S Gaming X 4GB GPU (I always run it at 110% power limit, with +75 core clock, and +175 Memory Clock, and 75-100% fan speed)
Scythe Mugen 5 Rev. 2 w/1300 RPM Sickle Kaze Fan aimed towards back of case
Cooler Master 120mm 1000RPM Exhaust fan back of case
Cooler Master 240mm+ 1100 RPM fan as Intake (unsure of exact size, but at least 240mm)
Corsair 850W 80+ Gold PSU
Cooler Master Enforcer Storm Case
Samsung Evo 500GB SSD
Samsung Evo 1TB SSD
Seagate Ironwolf NAS 4TB HDD

I've read through MANY reports of it being dubbed 'sensor issues', but this CPU/MOBO/RAM is BRAND NEW (<2 weeks old), barely old enough to break in the Thermal paste I installed it with. It DOES hover in the early/mid 30's when powered on in the bios (which isn't bad since the exact same cooling setup on a 4.2 OC'd 3770 was the same/more, and 5-10'c more idling/not gaming), it hasn't gone above late 50's gaming at 100% high performance, Usually idles between 30-40'c when streaming/downloading.

The 0'c 'heat sensor' has persisted even with a fresh install of windows 10 pro, and it happens with either the Core Temp or HWMonitor programs. Is this a known 'flaw' with this CPU, or is there a specific setup/configuration I'd have to do with Core Temp/HWMonitor to make it sense properly. (This exact same cooling setup NEVER said 0'c with my old 3770)

My Motherboard only has 6 out of 9 Standoff screws in, due to the case being secondhand that i bought 'pre built' 5 or so years ago; could that be a cause? (It doesn't jiggle or move at all though)

This is my.. first 'full' build, but my 3rd build i've worked on; so it COULD be something i've overlooked, however, the exact same PC i setup myself (ASUS P8Z77-V LK with an i5-3330/i7-3770), and my cousins (MSI MPG Z490 Gaming Plus with an i3-10100)

https://ibb.co/fDJvPC8 <-- Core Temp readings atm.
https://ibb.co/56C74Y2 <--- Core Readings after resetting high/low, took <5 mins for 3 of the 6 cores to hit a 0'c at least once
Even with HWInfo64, 4 of 6 cores have reached 0'c 'minimum' within the 10-20 mins i've ran it.
Attempted stress testing with Prime95, and temps shot upwards from 75-89 on all cores, in under a minute with 'smallest FFT's'
 
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ReignOfHell said:
Setup:
i5-11600k running normal 3.9-4.9 ghz, no OC, no XMP, CPU
MSI MPG Z590 Gaming Plus Motherboard
G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 32GB DDR4 3200hz Ram (16 CAS , running at 2133 mhz)
MSI 1650S Gaming X 4GB GPU (I always run it at 110% power limit, with +75 core clock, and +175 Memory Clock, and 75-100% fan speed)
Scythe Mugen 5 Rev. 2 w/1300 RPM Sickle Kaze Fan aimed towards back of case
Cooler Master 120mm 1000RPM Exhaust fan back of case
Cooler Master 240mm+ 1100 RPM fan as Intake (unsure of exact size, but at least 240mm)
Corsair 850W 80+ Gold PSU
Cooler Master Enforcer Storm Case
Samsung Evo 500GB SSD
Samsung Evo 1TB SSD
Seagate Ironwolf NAS 4TB HDD

I've read through MANY reports of it being dubbed 'sensor issues', but this CPU/MOBO/RAM is BRAND NEW (<2 weeks old), barely old enough to break in the Thermal paste I installed it with. It DOES hover in the early/mid 30's when powered on in the bios (which isn't bad since the exact same cooling setup on a 4.2 OC'd 3770 was the same/more, and 5-10'c more idling/not gaming), it hasn't gone above late 50's gaming at 100% high performance, Usually idles between 30-40'c when streaming/downloading.

The 0'c 'heat sensor' has persisted even with a fresh install of windows 10 pro, and it happens with either the Core Temp or HWMonitor programs. Is this a known 'flaw' with this CPU, or is there a specific setup/configuration I'd have to do with Core Temp/HWMonitor to make it sense properly. (This exact same cooling setup NEVER said 0'c with my old 3770)

My Motherboard only has 6 out of 9 Standoff screws in, due to the case being secondhand that i bought 'pre built' 5 or so years ago; could that be a cause? (It doesn't jiggle or move at all though)

This is my.. first 'full' build, but my 3rd build i've worked on; so it COULD be something i've overlooked, however, the exact same PC i setup myself (ASUS P8Z77-V LK with an i5-3330/i7-3770), and my cousins (MSI MPG Z490 Gaming Plus with an i3-10100)

https://ibb.co/fDJvPC8 <-- Core Temp readings atm.
https://ibb.co/56C74Y2 <--- Core Readings after resetting high/low, took <5 mins for 3 of the 6 cores to hit a 0'c at least once
Even with HWInfo64, 4 of 6 cores have reached 0'c 'minimum' within the 10-20 mins i've ran it.
Attempted stress testing with Prime95, and temps shot upwards from 75-89 on all cores, in under a minute with 'smallest FFT's'
Click to expand...
Try this step by step (read till end):
  • Disconnect from internet
  • Uninstall gpu driver DDU (clean and do not restart).
  • Uninstall all the processors and the chipset in system device (if available) on device manager (should be 12 on yours, also when it asks for restart, click on no) like this:
    unknown.png

    Chipset:
    unknown.png


  • Restart the pc to bios, and update to the latest bios. Then go to bios again after update and load default or optimized settings, then save and exit

  • boot up to windows and install the latest Chipset driver, reboot, and connect to internet.

  • Install the latest nvidia driver.

    *do this all offline until reboot after installing chipset driver, also you may reboot to bios after all of this to set the XMP (and previous settings you did). Download needed files (highlighted word) before doing step 1, do the step by orders.

  • And check windows update (and optional updates) if there is any and install them (except chipset in optional update). Enable hardware accelerated graphics scheduling (available in the latest windows update) in graphics settings and reboot, it should be like this:
    unknown.png


  • Make sure the psu connected to the gpu is 1 pcie cable per 1 slot (use main cable, not the branches/split) like this:

unknown.png
 
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I’d expect it’s just a bug in the software or BIOS for the temperature readings. If the system is performing correctly in all others ways I would not worry about it. If there are any BIOS updates you could try that.

Why don’t you have XMP on? Crippling the system for no reason.
 
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Koekieezz said:
maybe op want it to "be default as possible" rather than xmp it 😂
Click to expand...
Nah, i was having some mouse issues that i fixed, wasn't sure if that was a possible issue, since i had issues with my 1600hz DDR3 ram when i used to use my old ASUS P8Z77-V LK mobo. It caused issues, and i figured that was the culprit, however; the mouse issue has since fixed, and i haven't gotten a chance to re-enable the XMP.
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
Koekieezz said:
Try this step by step (read till end):
  • Disconnect from internet
  • Uninstall gpu driver DDU (clean and do not restart).
  • Uninstall all the processors and the chipset in system device (if available) on device manager (should be 12 on yours, also when it asks for restart, click on no) like this:
    unknown.png

    Chipset:
    unknown.png


  • Restart the pc to bios, and update to the latest bios. Then go to bios again after update and load default or optimized settings, then save and exit

  • boot up to windows and install the latest Chipset driver, reboot, and connect to internet.

  • Install the latest nvidia driver.

    *do this all offline until reboot after installing chipset driver, also you may reboot to bios after all of this to set the XMP (and previous settings you did). Download needed files (highlighted word) before doing step 1, do the step by orders.

  • And check windows update (and optional updates) if there is any and install them (except chipset in optional update). Enable hardware accelerated graphics scheduling (available in the latest windows update) in graphics settings and reboot, it should be like this:
    unknown.png


  • Make sure the psu connected to the gpu is 1 pcie cable per 1 slot (use main cable, not the branches/split) like this:
unknown.png
Click to expand...
Honestly, that never even occured to me xD. I will try that out.
Edit: Huh, all of my PCI-E cords for my RMX-850 have the extra 2 prongs o.o
 
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