Question I57600k
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Darkbreeze
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No, Kaby lake shouldn't run hotter than any other Intel i5. At around 25-35°C at idle you are normal, above that and something isn't right. So if you are idle and seeing 40°C or higher temps and 50°C temps, something is probably wrong given the 23°C ambient temps.
Are you using the stock CPU cooler? If so, make sure that all four corners/sides are flat with the CPU heat spreader and that the cooler is fully seated. It's not uncommon for one corner or side to not get fully seated and pop up later.
Also, if you don't have good case airflow in the front and out the back and top, then that could account for higher temps.
Are you using the stock CPU cooler? If so, make sure that all four corners/sides are flat with the CPU heat spreader and that the cooler is fully seated. It's not uncommon for one corner or side to not get fully seated and pop up later.
Also, if you don't have good case airflow in the front and out the back and top, then that could account for higher temps.
7600K did not come with a cooler , correct? (Everyday temps can vary depending on what cooler is used, what core voltage is being applied, and, will also depend on whether a motherboard is MCE capable and enabled, any overclocking is being done, etc...
A cpu can easily hit 50-53C momentarily as it ramps up to 4.x GHz (depending on model), and, HWMonitor should allow you to see what core speeds are being hit...; many times 'not doing anything' is not always accurate, as the CPU can ramp up when it chooses to complete downloads of updates, web storage sync, antivirus scans in the background, not always obvious to the user when it is occurring, short of monitoring task manager constantly...
My own 7700K (has Noctua NH-D15 with single fan due to case not allowing slightly higher 2nd fan with Gskill RAM kit))fluctuates from 29C to 32C when at 800 MHz when merely reading forum posts, etc...; a Defender scan activating will ramp up clocks to 4500 MHz, and core temps will fluctuate between 45C and 58C....(occasional package temp spike of 62C)
A cpu can easily hit 50-53C momentarily as it ramps up to 4.x GHz (depending on model), and, HWMonitor should allow you to see what core speeds are being hit...; many times 'not doing anything' is not always accurate, as the CPU can ramp up when it chooses to complete downloads of updates, web storage sync, antivirus scans in the background, not always obvious to the user when it is occurring, short of monitoring task manager constantly...
My own 7700K (has Noctua NH-D15 with single fan due to case not allowing slightly higher 2nd fan with Gskill RAM kit))fluctuates from 29C to 32C when at 800 MHz when merely reading forum posts, etc...; a Defender scan activating will ramp up clocks to 4500 MHz, and core temps will fluctuate between 45C and 58C....(occasional package temp spike of 62C)
Darkbreeze
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Gmoney06ss
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A 900w psu is way overkill unless you're building a crazy high end system.
So what cpu do you actually have? As a k sku cpu does not come with a cooler. So I assume if it's a stock cooler you have a non k cpu. A 7500?
You're idle temps don't sound too high, but what are your load temps?
So what cpu do you actually have? As a k sku cpu does not come with a cooler. So I assume if it's a stock cooler you have a non k cpu. A 7500?
You're idle temps don't sound too high, but what are your load temps?
Darkbreeze
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Can you post a picture of your case in the front, and the back and inside?
Because, if you have a case that has no case fans, that's a BIG problem.
Because, if you are using a stock cooler on an i5-7600k, that is also a problem, because the K sku processors do NOT come with a stock fan, so what is on there is a question that needs to be answered because it's likely that it's a cooler that is not designed to handle the thermal design power (TDP) of that processor.
And regardless of what these others might say, if you are seeing idle temps that range as high as, well, anything over 40°C, much less 50°C like you indicated, that is definitely too high and indicative of a problem. Idle temperatures don't really matter so long as they are in line with expectations. Getting them lower and lower helps nothing really. But if they are higher than they should be it indicates a problem. More important is what the max temperatures are under a full load.
Because, if you have a case that has no case fans, that's a BIG problem.
Because, if you are using a stock cooler on an i5-7600k, that is also a problem, because the K sku processors do NOT come with a stock fan, so what is on there is a question that needs to be answered because it's likely that it's a cooler that is not designed to handle the thermal design power (TDP) of that processor.
And regardless of what these others might say, if you are seeing idle temps that range as high as, well, anything over 40°C, much less 50°C like you indicated, that is definitely too high and indicative of a problem. Idle temperatures don't really matter so long as they are in line with expectations. Getting them lower and lower helps nothing really. But if they are higher than they should be it indicates a problem. More important is what the max temperatures are under a full load.
Gmoney06ss
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The minimum cooler I'd recommend would be the cooler master hyper 212, but if budget allows I'd highly recommend something noctua. They're known for making some excellent coolers. Sounds like you need to add some airflow to your case though. Zero case fans is not good at all!
What is your budget?
Darkbreeze
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Nobody can give you a recommendation on a cooler until we know what case model you are using. Tower coolers are big, and they won't fit a lot of prebuilt system or micro-ATX cases. If you don't have a case that can support a large tower cooler, which is all tower coolers, then you'll need to either look at getting a different case or go with a better top down cooler but it would be very helpful to SEE what CPU cooler, case and case fan locations we have to work with, if any.
Darkbreeze
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Those links do nothing except open Gmail and a message saying there was an error opening the conversation. You need to upload your images to an image hosting site like imgur.com or tinypic.com, and then link to them here by clicking the picture/insert image button on the formatting toolbar and pasting in the URL from the hosting site.
Darkbreeze
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I can't tell anything by that front shot, except that it's obviously an OEM style system. Nobody except a few of the OEMs uses top mounted power supply type cases anymore, or for a long time. Are you sure that's a 7600k system? Was that motherboard and CPU added as an upgrade at some point or did that case come with that hardware in it?
First of all, that's a HORRIFICALLY bad power supply. Insignia makes some decent products, but power supplies are not among the decent products that they make. I would plan to replace that.
Second, I'd REALLY recommend that you think about a newer case.
Third, I CAN see an empty fan location on the back panel, so adding a fan there would likely help things tremendously and if there is anyplace on the front of the case to also add a cooling fan, to bring some fresh air INTO the case, that would be equally helpful. As well, that IS a stock cooler, which is terribly weak and was never intended to be used with that system to start with, which is why none of the K sku systems ever came with a cooler. You always have had to buy a cooler for the unlocked SKUs. Maybe it came that way with that cooler if it came with it from the prebuilt OEM, but they usually DON'T use the unlocked SKUs so I'm inclined to believe that somebody either replaced a locked CPU with an unlocked CPU, or upgraded the whole platform after the fact.
First of all, that's a HORRIFICALLY bad power supply. Insignia makes some decent products, but power supplies are not among the decent products that they make. I would plan to replace that.
Second, I'd REALLY recommend that you think about a newer case.
Third, I CAN see an empty fan location on the back panel, so adding a fan there would likely help things tremendously and if there is anyplace on the front of the case to also add a cooling fan, to bring some fresh air INTO the case, that would be equally helpful. As well, that IS a stock cooler, which is terribly weak and was never intended to be used with that system to start with, which is why none of the K sku systems ever came with a cooler. You always have had to buy a cooler for the unlocked SKUs. Maybe it came that way with that cooler if it came with it from the prebuilt OEM, but they usually DON'T use the unlocked SKUs so I'm inclined to believe that somebody either replaced a locked CPU with an unlocked CPU, or upgraded the whole platform after the fact.
yes its 7600k. i just replaced the PSU with 900w . i got all the parts from new egg. just had a local pc shop put all of it together. around sumeer 2017-jan18. I am going to be replacing the case in the future.. I am going to get a cooler master i guess . the package temp now is 33 c.
Darkbreeze
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900w means nothing. There are 900w units out there that can barely sustain half that wattage, if that, and that is likely one of them. I can name ten 550w power supplies that can sustain higher wattage than that PSU any day of the week, guaranteed.
Click the spoiler below for a little more expansive information on power supply selection. It's too bad I didn't catch you before you bought that though.
That idle temp of 33°C is fine. I'd be more interested in knowing the max temperature though, because that's what really matters if you are idling at a decent temp like you apparently are now.
Boot into the Windows desktop environment. Download and install Prime95 version 26.6 and ONLY version 26.6. Do NOT install or run other versions for the purpose of thermal testing. Newer versions run AVX instructions which are not suitable for steady state thermal testing.
Download and install either HWinfo (NOT HWmonitor or Open hardware monitor) or CoreTemp.
Open HWinfo and run "Sensors only" or open CoreTemp.
Run Prime95 (ONLY version 26.6) and choose the "Small FFT test option". Run this for 15 minutes while monitoring your core/package temperatures to verify that you do not exceed the thermal specifications of your CPU.
(This should be considered to be 80°C for most generations of Intel processor and for current Ryzen CPUs. For older AMD FX and Phenom series, you should use a thermal monitor that has options for "Distance to TJmax" and you want to NOT see distance to TJmax drop below 10°C distance to TJmax. Anything that is MORE than 10°C distance to TJmax is within the allowed thermal envelope.)
Click the spoiler below for a little more expansive information on power supply selection. It's too bad I didn't catch you before you bought that though.
Let's start with the biggest misconception out there, which is that if a unit has high watts it will be ok or is good. No. Just, no.
There are plenty of 750-1000w units out there that I wouldn't trust to power a light bulb and might in fact be more dangerous due to their supposedly high capacity due to poor or non-existent protections inside the unit.
If the platform isn't good to begin with, how many watts or amps it says it can support is irrelevant.
Higher 80plus certification doesn't mean anything, UNLESS it's on an already known to be high quality PSU platform. For example, a Seasonic Prime platinum unit is going to be a better product than a Seasonic Prime Gold unit, because we already know the Prime platform is very good, and platinum efficiency along with it shows there are some improvements internally to account for the higher efficiency.
In a case like that, it might be worth it. It's likely the unit will create less heat, it will probably have better performance in regard to ripple, noise and voltage regulation. It might shave a few pennies, or dollars, off the electric bill over the course of a year.
Other than that, it is not going to perform any better than the same platform with Gold efficiency. On the other hand, just because a unit has Titanium 80plus ratings doesn't mean the unit is any good at all. For example, there are Raidmax units with Titanium efficiency and I wouldn't trust one of those to power a light bulb. There are a lot of units like this out there.
If the platform isn't good to begin with, whether or not it has an 80plus certification or not is irrelevant.
Whatever you do, don't EVER buy a power supply based on whether it has RGB or lighting, or looks like it might be a quality unit. Some of the biggest hunks of junk out there look just as good as a Seasonic Prime Ultra Titanium, but I assure you, they are not. So far as I've seen there are really no excellent units out there that have RGB built in. Maybe one or two models, but rest assured you'll be be paying for the lighting, not for the quality of the power supply.
I don't know what country you reside in, and I know that sometimes it's hard to come by good units in some regions, but when possible, when it comes time to get that PSU, I'd stick to the following if you can.
Seasonic. Seasonic isn't just a brand, they are a PSU manufacturer, unlike many of the PSU brands you see they make their own power supply platforms AND a great many of the very good PSU models out there from other brands like Antec, Corsair and older XFX are made by Seasonic.
Just about anything made by Seasonic is good quality for the most part. There are really no bad Seasonic units and only a very few that are even somewhat mediocre. They do make a few less-good quality OEM style units, but mostly those are not going to be units you come across at most vendors, and they are still not bad. Also, the S12II and M12II 520 and 620w units are older, group regulated models. At one time they were among the best units you could buy. Now, they are outdated and not as good as almost any other Seasonic models. They are however still better than a LOT of newer designs by other manufacturers.
The Seasonic 520w and 620w S12II/M12II units CAN be used on newer Intel platforms, if you turn off C6/C7 in the bios, but I'd really recommend a newer platform whenever possible. Prices are usually pretty good on those though, so sometimes it's worth accepting the lack of DC-DC on the internal platform. Higher capacity versions of the High current gamer are not based on that platform, so they are fine. Those being the 750w and higher versions.
Most common currently, in order of preference, would be the Seasonic Focus series, then Focus plus, then Prime, then Prime ultra. It's worth mentioning that there are generally Gold, Platinum and Titanium versions within each, or most, of those series, but that does not necessarily mean that a Focus plus Platinum is necessarily better than a Prime Gold. It only means that it scored better in the 80plus efficiency testing, not that the platform is better.
Again, don't let yourself get tangled up in the idea that a higher 80plus rating specifically means that it is a better unit than another one with a lower rating, unless you know that it is a good platform from the start. All these Focus and Prime units are pretty good so you can somewhat focus on the 80plus rating when deciding which of them to choose.
Super Flower Super Flower is another PSU manufacturer. They also make most of the good units sold by EVGA like the G2, G3, P2 and T2 models.
Super Flower doesn't have a very broad availability for the units with their own brand name on them, and are not available in a lot of countries but for those where there is availability you want to look at the Leadex and Leadex II models. The Golden green platform is fairly decent too but is getting rather long in the tooth as a platform AND I've seen some reviews indicating a few shortcomings on units based on this platform.
Even so, it's a great deal better than a lot of other platforms out there so you could certainly do worse than a Golden green model. Units based on the Leadex and Leadex II platforms are much better though.
Corsair. The CX and CXm units are ok as a budget option, but I do not recommend pairing them with gaming cards. The newer 2017 models of CX and CXm are better than the older ones, but still not what we'd call terrific, so if it specifically says 2017 model, or it has a capacity other than an even 100, like 550w, 650w, 750w, etc., then it's likely at least better than those older ones. Aside from that, any of the TX, RMx, RMi, HX, HXi, AX or AXi units are good. Those are listed from best to worst, with the best being the AX and AXi units.
Antec. The True power classic units are made by Seasonic, and are very good, but are not modular. The High current gamer 520w and 620w, or any other PSU you see on the market that is 520w or 620w, are also made by Seasonic, based on the S12II and M12II platform for modern versions, and are pretty good units but again they are an older platform that is group regulated so if you go with a Haswell or newer Intel configuration you will want to avoid those because they do not support the C6/C7 Intel low power states.
The Antec High current gamer 750w and 850w units are very good and are not the older design, which came in 520w and 620w capacities and were good for back then but again, are an aging Seasonic platform that is not the best choice most of the time these days. Occasionally, these older units MIGHT be the best unit available and you could do worse than one of them, but a newer DC-DC platform is desirable when possible if it doesn't mean sacrificing quality elsewhere in the platform. There are however older and newer HCG models, so exact model number will likely be a factor if choosing one of these however both the older models and the newer models are good.
Antec Edge units are ok too, but reviews indicate that they have noisy fan profiles. I'd only choose this model if it is on sale or the aesthetics match up with your color scheme or design. Still a good power supply but maybe a little aggressive on the fan profile. This may have been cured on newer Edge models so reading professional tear down reviews is still the best idea.
Antec Earthwatts Gold units are very good also.
BeQuiet. BeQuiet does have a few decent models, BUT, you must be VERY selective about which of their models you put your trust in. From model to model their are huge differences in both quality and performance, even with the same series. If you cannot find a review for a BeQuiet unit on HardOCP, JonnyGuru or Tom's hardware that SPECIFICALLY says it is a very good unit, and does not have any significant issues in the "cons" category, I would avoid it. In fact, I'd probably avoid it anyhow unless there is a very great sale on one that has good reviews, because their units are generally more expensive than MUCH better units from Antec, Seasonic, EVGA and Corsair.
Super Flower. They are like Seasonic and they make power supplies for a variety of other companies, like EVGA. Super Flower units are usually pretty good. I'd stick to the Leadex, Leadex II and Golden Green models.
EVGA. They have BOTH good and not very good models.
Not very good are the W1, N1, B1, B3 (All models except the 650w model), BQ, BR, BT and G1 NEX models.
Good models are the B2, B3 650w, G2, G2L, G3, GQ, P2 and T2 models.
FSP. They used to be very mediocre, and are a PSU manufacturer like Seasonic and Super Flower, although not as well trusted based on historical performance. Currently the FSP Hydro G and Hydro X units are pretty good.
I would avoid Thermaltake and Cooler Master. They do have a few good units, but most of the models they sell are either poor or mediocre, and the ones they have that ARE good are usually way overpriced.
This is just ONE example of why I say that. Very new and modern CM unit. One of the worst scores ever seen on JonnyGuru for a well known brand name product. Doesn't look to be much better than a Raidmax unit. Sad.
And most of the models I have linked to the reviews of at the following link are at least good, with most of them being fantastic.
Certainly there ARE some good units out there that you won't see above among those I've listed, but they are few and far between, much as a hidden nugget of gold you find in a crevice among otherwise ordinary rocks and don't EVER assume a unit is good just because of the brand.
If you cannot find an IN DEPTH, REPUTABLE review on Tom's hardware, JonnyGuru, HardOCP, Hardware secrets (Old reviews by Gabe Torres), Kitguru (Only Aris reviews), TechPowerUP, SilentPC crew or a similar site that does much more than simply a review of the unboxing and basic tests that don't include reliable results for ripple, noise, voltage regulation and a complete teardown of the unit including identification of the internal platform, then the unit is a big fat question mark.
I recommend not trusting such units as companies generally always send out review samples of any unit they feel is going to get a good review, and don't send them out if they know they are going to get hammered by the reviewer. No review usually equals poor quality. Usually.
Other models that should never be trusted OR USED AT ALL, under any circumstances, include:
A-Top, AK Power, Alpine, Apevia, Apex (Supercase/Allied), Artic, Ace, Aerocool (There might be one model worth using, but I'd still avoid them.), Aspire (Turbocase), Atadc, Atrix, Broadway com corp, Chieftech, Circle, CIT, Coolmax, Deer, Diablotek, Dynapower, Dynex, Eagletech, Enlight, Eurotech, Evo labs, EZ cool, Feedtek, Foxconn, G7, HEC/Compucase Orion, HEDY, High power, iBall, Insignia (Good TVs, not good power supplies), iStar computer co., Jeantec, JPac, Just PC, Kolink, LC Power, Linkworld electronics, Logisys, Macron, MSI, NmediaPC, Norwood Micro (CompUSA), Okia, Powercool, Powmax, Pulsepower, Q-tec, Raidmax, RaveRocketfish, Segotep, SFC, Sharkoon, Shuttle, Skyhawk, Spire, Startech, Storm, Sumvision, Tesla, Trust, Ultra, Wintech, Winpower, Xilence (Until I see a reputable review of a model showing different), xTreme (Cyberpower), Youngbear and Zebronics.
There are plenty of 750-1000w units out there that I wouldn't trust to power a light bulb and might in fact be more dangerous due to their supposedly high capacity due to poor or non-existent protections inside the unit.
If the platform isn't good to begin with, how many watts or amps it says it can support is irrelevant.
Higher 80plus certification doesn't mean anything, UNLESS it's on an already known to be high quality PSU platform. For example, a Seasonic Prime platinum unit is going to be a better product than a Seasonic Prime Gold unit, because we already know the Prime platform is very good, and platinum efficiency along with it shows there are some improvements internally to account for the higher efficiency.
In a case like that, it might be worth it. It's likely the unit will create less heat, it will probably have better performance in regard to ripple, noise and voltage regulation. It might shave a few pennies, or dollars, off the electric bill over the course of a year.
Other than that, it is not going to perform any better than the same platform with Gold efficiency. On the other hand, just because a unit has Titanium 80plus ratings doesn't mean the unit is any good at all. For example, there are Raidmax units with Titanium efficiency and I wouldn't trust one of those to power a light bulb. There are a lot of units like this out there.
If the platform isn't good to begin with, whether or not it has an 80plus certification or not is irrelevant.
Whatever you do, don't EVER buy a power supply based on whether it has RGB or lighting, or looks like it might be a quality unit. Some of the biggest hunks of junk out there look just as good as a Seasonic Prime Ultra Titanium, but I assure you, they are not. So far as I've seen there are really no excellent units out there that have RGB built in. Maybe one or two models, but rest assured you'll be be paying for the lighting, not for the quality of the power supply.
I don't know what country you reside in, and I know that sometimes it's hard to come by good units in some regions, but when possible, when it comes time to get that PSU, I'd stick to the following if you can.
Seasonic. Seasonic isn't just a brand, they are a PSU manufacturer, unlike many of the PSU brands you see they make their own power supply platforms AND a great many of the very good PSU models out there from other brands like Antec, Corsair and older XFX are made by Seasonic.
Just about anything made by Seasonic is good quality for the most part. There are really no bad Seasonic units and only a very few that are even somewhat mediocre. They do make a few less-good quality OEM style units, but mostly those are not going to be units you come across at most vendors, and they are still not bad. Also, the S12II and M12II 520 and 620w units are older, group regulated models. At one time they were among the best units you could buy. Now, they are outdated and not as good as almost any other Seasonic models. They are however still better than a LOT of newer designs by other manufacturers.
The Seasonic 520w and 620w S12II/M12II units CAN be used on newer Intel platforms, if you turn off C6/C7 in the bios, but I'd really recommend a newer platform whenever possible. Prices are usually pretty good on those though, so sometimes it's worth accepting the lack of DC-DC on the internal platform. Higher capacity versions of the High current gamer are not based on that platform, so they are fine. Those being the 750w and higher versions.
Most common currently, in order of preference, would be the Seasonic Focus series, then Focus plus, then Prime, then Prime ultra. It's worth mentioning that there are generally Gold, Platinum and Titanium versions within each, or most, of those series, but that does not necessarily mean that a Focus plus Platinum is necessarily better than a Prime Gold. It only means that it scored better in the 80plus efficiency testing, not that the platform is better.
Again, don't let yourself get tangled up in the idea that a higher 80plus rating specifically means that it is a better unit than another one with a lower rating, unless you know that it is a good platform from the start. All these Focus and Prime units are pretty good so you can somewhat focus on the 80plus rating when deciding which of them to choose.
Super Flower Super Flower is another PSU manufacturer. They also make most of the good units sold by EVGA like the G2, G3, P2 and T2 models.
Super Flower doesn't have a very broad availability for the units with their own brand name on them, and are not available in a lot of countries but for those where there is availability you want to look at the Leadex and Leadex II models. The Golden green platform is fairly decent too but is getting rather long in the tooth as a platform AND I've seen some reviews indicating a few shortcomings on units based on this platform.
Even so, it's a great deal better than a lot of other platforms out there so you could certainly do worse than a Golden green model. Units based on the Leadex and Leadex II platforms are much better though.
Corsair. The CX and CXm units are ok as a budget option, but I do not recommend pairing them with gaming cards. The newer 2017 models of CX and CXm are better than the older ones, but still not what we'd call terrific, so if it specifically says 2017 model, or it has a capacity other than an even 100, like 550w, 650w, 750w, etc., then it's likely at least better than those older ones. Aside from that, any of the TX, RMx, RMi, HX, HXi, AX or AXi units are good. Those are listed from best to worst, with the best being the AX and AXi units.
Antec. The True power classic units are made by Seasonic, and are very good, but are not modular. The High current gamer 520w and 620w, or any other PSU you see on the market that is 520w or 620w, are also made by Seasonic, based on the S12II and M12II platform for modern versions, and are pretty good units but again they are an older platform that is group regulated so if you go with a Haswell or newer Intel configuration you will want to avoid those because they do not support the C6/C7 Intel low power states.
The Antec High current gamer 750w and 850w units are very good and are not the older design, which came in 520w and 620w capacities and were good for back then but again, are an aging Seasonic platform that is not the best choice most of the time these days. Occasionally, these older units MIGHT be the best unit available and you could do worse than one of them, but a newer DC-DC platform is desirable when possible if it doesn't mean sacrificing quality elsewhere in the platform. There are however older and newer HCG models, so exact model number will likely be a factor if choosing one of these however both the older models and the newer models are good.
Antec Edge units are ok too, but reviews indicate that they have noisy fan profiles. I'd only choose this model if it is on sale or the aesthetics match up with your color scheme or design. Still a good power supply but maybe a little aggressive on the fan profile. This may have been cured on newer Edge models so reading professional tear down reviews is still the best idea.
Antec Earthwatts Gold units are very good also.
BeQuiet. BeQuiet does have a few decent models, BUT, you must be VERY selective about which of their models you put your trust in. From model to model their are huge differences in both quality and performance, even with the same series. If you cannot find a review for a BeQuiet unit on HardOCP, JonnyGuru or Tom's hardware that SPECIFICALLY says it is a very good unit, and does not have any significant issues in the "cons" category, I would avoid it. In fact, I'd probably avoid it anyhow unless there is a very great sale on one that has good reviews, because their units are generally more expensive than MUCH better units from Antec, Seasonic, EVGA and Corsair.
Super Flower. They are like Seasonic and they make power supplies for a variety of other companies, like EVGA. Super Flower units are usually pretty good. I'd stick to the Leadex, Leadex II and Golden Green models.
EVGA. They have BOTH good and not very good models.
Not very good are the W1, N1, B1, B3 (All models except the 650w model), BQ, BR, BT and G1 NEX models.
Good models are the B2, B3 650w, G2, G2L, G3, GQ, P2 and T2 models.
FSP. They used to be very mediocre, and are a PSU manufacturer like Seasonic and Super Flower, although not as well trusted based on historical performance. Currently the FSP Hydro G and Hydro X units are pretty good.
I would avoid Thermaltake and Cooler Master. They do have a few good units, but most of the models they sell are either poor or mediocre, and the ones they have that ARE good are usually way overpriced.
This is just ONE example of why I say that. Very new and modern CM unit. One of the worst scores ever seen on JonnyGuru for a well known brand name product. Doesn't look to be much better than a Raidmax unit. Sad.
And most of the models I have linked to the reviews of at the following link are at least good, with most of them being fantastic.
Certainly there ARE some good units out there that you won't see above among those I've listed, but they are few and far between, much as a hidden nugget of gold you find in a crevice among otherwise ordinary rocks and don't EVER assume a unit is good just because of the brand.
If you cannot find an IN DEPTH, REPUTABLE review on Tom's hardware, JonnyGuru, HardOCP, Hardware secrets (Old reviews by Gabe Torres), Kitguru (Only Aris reviews), TechPowerUP, SilentPC crew or a similar site that does much more than simply a review of the unboxing and basic tests that don't include reliable results for ripple, noise, voltage regulation and a complete teardown of the unit including identification of the internal platform, then the unit is a big fat question mark.
I recommend not trusting such units as companies generally always send out review samples of any unit they feel is going to get a good review, and don't send them out if they know they are going to get hammered by the reviewer. No review usually equals poor quality. Usually.
Other models that should never be trusted OR USED AT ALL, under any circumstances, include:
A-Top, AK Power, Alpine, Apevia, Apex (Supercase/Allied), Artic, Ace, Aerocool (There might be one model worth using, but I'd still avoid them.), Aspire (Turbocase), Atadc, Atrix, Broadway com corp, Chieftech, Circle, CIT, Coolmax, Deer, Diablotek, Dynapower, Dynex, Eagletech, Enlight, Eurotech, Evo labs, EZ cool, Feedtek, Foxconn, G7, HEC/Compucase Orion, HEDY, High power, iBall, Insignia (Good TVs, not good power supplies), iStar computer co., Jeantec, JPac, Just PC, Kolink, LC Power, Linkworld electronics, Logisys, Macron, MSI, NmediaPC, Norwood Micro (CompUSA), Okia, Powercool, Powmax, Pulsepower, Q-tec, Raidmax, RaveRocketfish, Segotep, SFC, Sharkoon, Shuttle, Skyhawk, Spire, Startech, Storm, Sumvision, Tesla, Trust, Ultra, Wintech, Winpower, Xilence (Until I see a reputable review of a model showing different), xTreme (Cyberpower), Youngbear and Zebronics.
That idle temp of 33°C is fine. I'd be more interested in knowing the max temperature though, because that's what really matters if you are idling at a decent temp like you apparently are now.
Boot into the Windows desktop environment. Download and install Prime95 version 26.6 and ONLY version 26.6. Do NOT install or run other versions for the purpose of thermal testing. Newer versions run AVX instructions which are not suitable for steady state thermal testing.
Download and install either HWinfo (NOT HWmonitor or Open hardware monitor) or CoreTemp.
Open HWinfo and run "Sensors only" or open CoreTemp.
Run Prime95 (ONLY version 26.6) and choose the "Small FFT test option". Run this for 15 minutes while monitoring your core/package temperatures to verify that you do not exceed the thermal specifications of your CPU.
(This should be considered to be 80°C for most generations of Intel processor and for current Ryzen CPUs. For older AMD FX and Phenom series, you should use a thermal monitor that has options for "Distance to TJmax" and you want to NOT see distance to TJmax drop below 10°C distance to TJmax. Anything that is MORE than 10°C distance to TJmax is within the allowed thermal envelope.)
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