[SOLVED] I7-11700k consistently hitting 100c in game ?

t1z

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I have the i7-11700k with a Mag Coreliquid 120r cooler.

While playing Escape from Tarkov GPU-Z is showing my CPU hitting 100c pretty consistently.

My GPU is staying just below 80c with the same load. And my memory is around 90c.

After a while randomly my screen will go black and the fans kick into full gear. I can hear the game still cutting in and out but can't do anything.

I end up having to shutdown the PC.

I'm not too familiar with CPU temps, but it seems to me that 100c is pretty high. The GPU and memory temps seem normal to me for being under such load.

Do I need to look into getting better cooling for my cpu maybe?
 
Solution
The front fans in that case are basically nothing more than eye candy. The intake vents for the front are quite inadequate. Where I can't say I am confident this is the cause of black screen 'lock' it certainly isn't helping the performance.

For the crash issues you should look into Event Viewer and Reliability History and see what you can find there. In particular with Event Viewer look in critical and error tabs for the event code it is throwing. It is helpful to have another PC and/or window up such that you can search each code to try and investigate what is important to the current situation.

It might also be worthwhile to try and lower game settings to see if you gain stability when doing so.

It is not uncommon for prebuilt...

punkncat

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Well, better cooling might be a possible solution. A 120 liquid cooler isn't much, however not strictly the only course of action.

What case is this in? How many other fans are pulling/pushing air in that setup? What is ambient temperature where you are?

In addition, are you running an OC?

Is this a prebuilt or custom build?

Something you could try right off would be to pull the side panel and see if temps decrease as a result. If so, it can be an indicator that your air flow or fan setup is not ideal. If not, it can indicate an issue with the AIO or it's installation or the mounting, even the thermal paste.
 

t1z

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Well, better cooling might be a possible solution. A 120 liquid cooler isn't much, however not strictly the only course of action.

What case is this in? How many other fans are pulling/pushing air in that setup? What is ambient temperature where you are?

In addition, are you running an OC?

Is this a prebuilt or custom build?

Something you could try right off would be to pull the side panel and see if temps decrease as a result. If so, it can be an indicator that your air flow or fan setup is not ideal. If not, it can indicate an issue with the AIO or it's installation or the mounting, even the thermal paste.

The case is the Gungnir 110R .

There are 3x 120mm fans in the front pulling air in and the 1x 120mm fan from the AIO pushing it out the back, with room to switch to a dual fan AIO on the top of the case.

The ambient temperature of this room is typically around 68. However when my son is running his PC as well and we've been gaming for a few hours I can tell it's quite a bit warmer. I usually pop the window open in this case if it's cooler outside, but summer is here so it's not an option anymore.

As far as I know the system did not come over clocked. And I have not made any changes to the CPU performance.

This is a prebuild PC:
MSI Gaming Desktop Aegis RS 11TE-089US

This black screen crashing issue has now happened three times in the past few months. The first two times it was after gaming for at least 5 or 6 hours. This time, it was after only an hour or so. All three times the first thing I did was remove the side panel and let the PC sit for about 5-10 minutes then I'd go back to gaming. I would leave the panel removed for a day each time. Today, I removed the panel and started back up after about 5 minutes and had the same crash happen a few minutes into the game running.

I did just remove the cooler from the CPU to check the paste. The cooler seemed a bit loose at first, but it was sort of an after thought and I didn't really check. I then cleaned off the thermal paste that came with the PC and applied new paste. The only weird thing I noticed besides the cooler possibly being loose was that they used a crap ton of paste and it was squeezed out the sides. But as I've read, that doesn't seem to lead to over heating.

I'm gonna run it as is for now. Let me know what your new thoughts are. And thanks for the insights.
 

punkncat

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The front fans in that case are basically nothing more than eye candy. The intake vents for the front are quite inadequate. Where I can't say I am confident this is the cause of black screen 'lock' it certainly isn't helping the performance.

For the crash issues you should look into Event Viewer and Reliability History and see what you can find there. In particular with Event Viewer look in critical and error tabs for the event code it is throwing. It is helpful to have another PC and/or window up such that you can search each code to try and investigate what is important to the current situation.

It might also be worthwhile to try and lower game settings to see if you gain stability when doing so.

It is not uncommon for prebuilt systems to not have things like XMP enabled. I don't know the specifics of your hardware, but check in the motherboard documentation to find out how to enable as it can help with overall performance.

Probably worthwhile to check through processes in Task Manager to see what all is running. Make sure you don't have various extraneous programs running or things that got installed alongside programs that were desired. Check 'startup' as well as background apps to see if there is anything you can stop running which will free up resources.

Might consider going to the website of the GPU manufacturer and downloading the newest graphics driver. I would suggest using the 'clean install' option, or DDU beforehand to be sure you are getting a good clean install of the new driver.
 
Solution

Karadjgne

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Couple strikes against you, nickles and dimes adding up.

It's an 11700k. The 11th gen were still being controlled by PL1, PL2 and Tau, which is standard power limit (TDP), max power limit and time. When you start something, it runs for 56 seconds (Tau) at PL2 (max) then drops to PL1 for the remainder.

Which brings up the second issue, possibly, MSI Dragon Center. That software is a cheat. It's entire purpose in design is to bypass Tau, setting almost unlimited PL2, max power, thereby creating higher performance than the competitors motherboards. Which drives power usage way up, and temps as a result.

Which brings up the third issue. Your cooling is a 140w cpu cooler on a cpu that easily hits 250w PL2 and a steady state 125w PL1. Expect extreme temps there, you'd need a 280mm/360mm AIO or a Noctua NH-D15/beQuiet DarkRock Pro4 to keep that cpu tamed. It never should have seen a totally inadequate 120mm cooler for its ability.

Which brings up the 4th issue, possibly, that MSI cooler is pretty well documented as a series (every size) that has some serious coolant issues. As shown in the video posted above, that's a common issue, and totally destroys whatever cooling ability the cooler has. That 140 measly watts just took a nose dive, you'd be lucky to keep an old Pentium cool enough to run.

Nickles and dimes. Add them all or most of them up and you get 100°C + in simple programs.

If running it, get rid of Dragon Center. Change coolers for the biggest you can fit in the case. That's a monster cpu, requires monster cooling. That should cure any temp issues.
 
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t1z

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So after taking the cooler off, reapplying paste, putting it back on I got decent temps for about 5 minutes. This is just sitting idle mind you. It gradually went up to 100c and stayed there. Went and bought a 280mm AIO and it just barely didn't align with the screw holes.

I took that back and now have a bequiet darkrock pro 4 on the way. While that's being shipped I plan on trying a kraken z63 as it's the only other large cooler I can find locally. Unless you all think that the darkrock will be sufficient.

On another note I've seen a video discussing the fact that Intel allowed motherboard manufacturers the ability to build their boards to basically run this cpu outside of Intels recommended levels(best way I could describe it as a layman). So I'm wondering if my motherboard might also be partly to blame in this. But I wouldn't know how to check.

Thanks to everyone for your help on this.
 
I have a Dark Rock 4 pro cooling a 5900x, seems to do the job there. I think the i7 runs hotter but this particular air cooler or a Noctua DH15 should be able to tame it.

I'd return the MSI cooler though, they've recalled them and what you get back should be a rectified product. That said, I prefer air cooling over an AIO any day of the week.
 

punkncat

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Admittedly, I don't know much about that case aside from the pictures, but if those panels are acrylic instead of glass, I would tape off the front panel and drill some holes in it. Obviously, that could turn out bad...but the issue is that almost regardless of putting actual good cooler with the proper ability to cool the CPU, there is no real fresh air draw to allow it to work as intended. If nothing else perhaps replace the case with something more suited to ventilation.
 

Karadjgne

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It actually doesn't do too badly, there's enough space for airflow created by the vacuum from the front fans that there's relatively little restriction. It's one of msi's best cases in that respect.

It fits a DRP4 with no issues. It'll fit an aio with no issues, cosmetically the aio is better on top as exhaust.

Firmly believe that the entire issue is totally related to that 120mm MSI Mag aio.

As far as screw mounts go, and this applies to all cooler types or brands, you'll have 4 choices. LGA 15xx-1200, AM3+ or prior, LGA 1700 or AM4. You'll need to use the correct brackets/mount according to which socket. AM4 looks a lot like LGA 1700 and AM3+, all being rectangular. LGA 15xx-1200 is the oddball being square. But they will fit correctly. If the mount/bracket is correct, but doesn't fit right, you did something wrong, which isn't uncommon, easy to get some brackets upside down or even backwards. All screws should be tightened in stages, it's quite common for users to tighten fully one screw and then cannot even get the other started without bending the bracket, which destroys any hope of good temps.
 

t1z

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Oh my bad Karadjgne, I didn't specify that it was the radiator which was just a few millimeters too big to fit in my case.

So to sum up everything, it does indeed appear to be the MSI cooler which took a crap and caused my CPU to reach those temps. I stole my son's NZXT Kraken 120 AIO while he's out of town to test with and I've had steady low to mid 30's celsius while idle and wwatching youtube for the past 2 hours. After yesterday afternoon my old MSI cooler couldn't keep my CPU below 99c.

I have the darkrock pro 4 showing up tomorrow and assume that it will perform at least as well as the Kraken 120.
 

Karadjgne

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Haha, the DRP4 is a 250w capacity cooler with excellent thermal dissipative properties, it's in a class with only a few other coolers as far as ability goes. It'll handle your cpu at OC values and come out laughing.

The kracken is a really good 120mm but not even close to the ability of the DRP4. Be like comparing a fishing boat to a battleship.