Question i7-3770k hitting 105C in idle - H110 pump failure?

[dr34mf13ld]

Hey there. This past week I'm parkour-ing between different components of my PC gradually failing.

Case: TТ Chaser MK-1
MB: AsRock Z77 Extreme4
CPU: Intel i7-3770k /not OC/
CPU Cooler: Corsair H110
RAM: Corsair Vengeance 4x4GB 2133Mhz
GPU: EVGA GTX 980ti SC+ /not OC/
PSU: SS-850AM

This Saturday the performance of my PC (in the signature) gradually slowed down. Few restarts and a BIOS reset later I noticed my CPU temperatures skyrocket and have what is called to be "thermal throttling".

The CPU was never overclocked and resetting the BIOS (something I've done hundreds of time) isn't most likely the problem.

The AIO Corsair H110 is 7 years old. Never failed until now. Warranty of 5 years is gone of course.
The fans are spinning, the CPU fan (that has to be the pump) has it's RPM in the BIOS. The pipes however are cool, not hot. The top (cap) of the cooler itself is getting hotter /never touched it before so I can't tell the difference/.
Probably the pump is dead?

I've been monitoring the CPU/GPU temps this past week due to my GPU failures and they were within limit.
The CPU goes up to 40C in idle and 70 under load.
Now it's at 80-90 degrees in the first 20 secs of booting (looking at the BIOS sensors), and goes up to 105 idling in Windows.

I'm not even using the PC right now until I've come with a plan what to do or check. I'm probably getting some old CM V10 from a friend to see if the CPU is going cold again.

 

[Lutfij]

Can you please pass on the specs to your build, like so:
CPU:
Motherboard:
Ram:
SSD/HDD:
GPU:
PSU:
Chassis:
OS:

If your specs are that which is listed in your sig space, please add that into the body of the thread or as a followup since sig space specs can and will change over time making this thread and it's (possible) solution(s) irrelevant to the user who may be in the same boat as you.

How is the cooler oriented in your build? You might want to see if you're able to work with the stock cooler for your CPU. As for your cooler, disassemble the cooler from the case, with the pump block at a point lower than your radiator, see if you can shake the pump housing to dislodge any air bubbles.

You could also try a paper clip test with the AIO to see if the pump's impeller is moving but you're going to have to use an adapter to feed power to the 3 pin connector.

Latest BIOS for your motherboard?

 

[dr34mf13ld]

I've put my PC specs in the thread above.
The cooler is H110 not H100 actually. The radiator is mounted on top of the case, 2x 140mm are cooling the radiator bottom to top and there are 2x200mm on top chassis fans that additionally do their thing.

I will not dismount the cooler at least for today because if doing so I'll need to change the thermal paste with new one and I'm missing such. I'll only check if the power connectors are well and in place, do the magic "finger tap" on the pump and try the PC once again to see how the temperature goes.

Getting the V10+thermal paste on Wednesday to try with.

Btw can you give me advice on which air cooler replacement is best?
I kind of went for the CM V10 because it's cool looking and I wanted to have it 8 years ago in the first place, also the cheapest I've found on the market.
But there are few more option for me, such as:
Cryorig H7
Thermalright Macho
Prolimatech Armageddon I once had the same but couldn't fit a crossfire of two 3 slotted cards so had to replace it with the H110. No longer using Crossfire or SLI, so probably it will fit back and I can take the 2 140mm fans from the Corsair's radiator.
Be Quiet!Dark Rock Pro 3 (I've given the link to Dark Pro 4 which is almost the same, the page for 3 doesn't exist). This is pretty bad ass but it's bit expensive for my current needs.