i7 4790k running EXTREMELY hot with Corsair H60

[Laxswag]

I have had the H60 for a year with no problems until now, when I recently switched mobos.

I have looked around and haven't found any answers that helped me. I have everything plugged in, have redone the installation, taken all OC's off, and it just has me sort of stuck.

Idle temps @ a dangerous 70 C°.

Temps with even 20% utilization @ up to a CPU-Killing 100 C°.

Like I said, I have no clue what to do, here are my specs:

i7 4790k
MSI Gaming 5 z97
16gb ddr3
Corsair h60
ASUS ROG 1080 Strix A8G
EVGA Supernova G2 750w Modular Power Supply
Samsung 250gb SSD
2TB hybrid drive
Antec 1200 V3 Case

 

[MeanMachine41]

As you have just changed MBs then that is the clue.
How did you apply your thermal paste.? Excessive or no paste can be the cause.
Did you try to loosen the mounting brackets slightly.? Could be over-tightened.

Is the coolant pump working.? You should feel or here a slight hum from the pump. If not there may be a blockage or air is within the loop.

 

[Laxswag]

As you have just changed MBs then that is the clue.
How did you apply your thermal paste.? Excessive or no paste can be the cause.
Did you try to loosen the mounting brackets slightly.? Could be over-tightened.

Is the coolant pump working.? You should feel or here a slight hum from the pump. If not there may be a blockage or air is within the loop.

Thanks for the reply. I have redone my thermal paste twice since I saw the issue. I don't know if my CPU has always been running that hot, because I never really had a real-time indicator before. I know that the amount of paste isn't an issue since I have redone it multiple times, but maybe the paste itself? I got it at Fry's and it is made by a company based from China. Got 4/5 stars on Newegg but the 1 star people have my issue.

I thought the brackets could be too loose, and tried to tighten them as best as I could, but I could try loosening I guess... The pump is working, and I can feel it vibrating if I grab one of the tubes. It has hit 100 C° without the CPU shutting down. Is it 102° that the CPU shuts down? Maybe the Mobo is reading the temps wrong.

 

[Sam Hain]

Ensure that the pump is plugged directly to the PSU, not the MB for a uninterrupted operation/voltage variations and that the fan is plugged into the CPU fan header directly and securely.

Also, endure that your CPU fan is set to "NORMAL" (or similar setting) in BIOS, even if OC'ing. I have the H105 and have my setup like this and runs like a champ.

If this does not help, remove your CPU and inspect it for any abnormalities/issues due to the remove/install process and try again....

Hope this helps.

 

[MeanMachine41]

Check your temps in Bios at idle,if available.
Do not continue using the system at those high readings. It will degrade your chip if sustained.
Don't know about the TIM you are using, I always use AS5 without issues.
Also don't use two thermal readers at the same time to avoid erroneous readings and try different thermal apps to confirm.
I have heard/read that air bubbles caught in the pump can prevent the pump from working efficiently. They shook the unit and dropped the radiator below the pump and that proved the system had a leak.
You would have to swap the unit out to be 100% sure and if still under Warranty then RMA.
Would be also worth checking for bent pins in the CPU socket with a magnifier.

 

[Sam Hain]

Check your temps in Bios at idle,if available.
Do not continue using the system at those high readings. It will degrade your chip if sustained.
Don't know about the TIM you are using, I always use AS5 without issues.
Also don't use two thermal readers at the same time to avoid erroneous readings and try different thermal apps to confirm.
I have heard/read that air bubbles caught in the pump can prevent the pump from working efficiently. They shook the unit and dropped the radiator below the pump and that proved the system had a leak.
You would have to swap the unit out to be 100% sure and if still under Warranty then RMA.
Would be also worth checking for bent pins in the CPU socket with a magnifier.

Good info... Side note: Good info again, I just read on your "PSU Fact" and is why I did research on mine b4 purchase.

 

[Laxswag]

Check your temps in Bios at idle,if available.
Do not continue using the system at those high readings. It will degrade your chip if sustained.
Don't know about the TIM you are using, I always use AS5 without issues.
Also don't use two thermal readers at the same time to avoid erroneous readings and try different thermal apps to confirm.
I have heard/read that air bubbles caught in the pump can prevent the pump from working efficiently. They shook the unit and dropped the radiator below the pump and that proved the system had a leak.
You would have to swap the unit out to be 100% sure and if still under Warranty then RMA.
Would be also worth checking for bent pins in the CPU socket with a magnifier.

None of this seems to be helping, I have tried it all. Currently sitting at 60 C while typing this. I use the LED display on my mobo for temps and then double check everything on HWMonitor. HWMonitor gives the same package temp as my mobo does because the reading is of course from the mobo correct? Any program will just tell me the temps my mobo is telling me on the display?

My current guess is that the pump just isn't pumping as strong as it should. I couldn't connect the fan to my PSU because I needed a male to male fan connector so that I could connect to the female fan connector that went to female molex which connected to male molex then to a periferial cord on my mobo. -- Are you supposed to set that up different?

I have all of the pumps and fans at 100% currently in the mobo so it doesn't matter it is hooked up to CPU spot, it isn't shifting speeds.

My thermal compound is a MassCool heatsink compound consisting of 10% Silver, 2.17 W/m-k thermal conductivity, and .06 °C-in/W thermal resistance (I don't know what those numbers really mean for it but apparently it is not the best of pastes, however people say it doesn't make a huge difference).

 

[Sam Hain]

It could be your pump, depending on age... However, "usually" they will normally let you know, by way of noise, excessive vibro, etc. Those pumps need a good 12v supply to feed them. Not sure how you had it connected on your previous MB, but check this out:

http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/275891-29-corsair-high-temperatures

http://www.tomshardware.com/answers/id-2611267/cpu-cooling-corsair-h60-high-temp.html

The second post shows a "temp-fix" putting the H60 fan being plugged into a MB system fan header and the pump into the CPU fan header. This SHOULD get you going for the moment, so your temps will drop back down... HOWEVER, you will need a MOLEX adapter for that pump to go straight to the PSU as I pointed out earlier, so the H60 fan can be plugged into the CPU fan-header, where it should be.

See how it goes... If this will work?

NOTE: Make sure to set your CPU FAN to 100% or MAX (whichever your BIOS shows), so that the pump is running at MAX capacity, when connecting the pump to the CPU fan-header... And adjust your H60 fan accordingly in BIOS, so that it's running at a setting (if possible) that mimics what it would if connected to the CPU fan-header, so it's keeping that rad cool.

Sorry that I forgot to mention that before

 

[SloBash]

Hey there, running an i7 4770 with an Antec Kuhler 650. It's always run hot since I got it, I got concerned and sent the cooler back and they sent a replacement (new, boxed, same model). It was better but still hot. Lately it's been getting worse so I figured i'd give it a proper clean, dusted everything, cleaned out heatsinks, dismounted the CPU heatsink and cleaned it all off, new thermal paste etc. No change, in fact I made it worse.

On desktop I get 50-70 C depending on what i'm doing. Playing games it rocks up to 95-100. No idea why, cooler seems to be working but who knows, can't tell if the pump is going as the fan on the radiator is always going nuts. Am getting a new air cooler in a couple of days to see if that fixes things, i'm assuming it will as I can only assume that the cooling isn't working properly (can CPUs be faulty and just run hot?).

No help i'm sure but in the same boat anyway 😉

 

[Laxswag]

Hey there, running an i7 4770 with an Antec Kuhler 650. It's always run hot since I got it, I got concerned and sent the cooler back and they sent a replacement (new, boxed, same model). It was better but still hot. Lately it's been getting worse so I figured i'd give it a proper clean, dusted everything, cleaned out heatsinks, dismounted the CPU heatsink and cleaned it all off, new thermal paste etc. No change, in fact I made it worse.

On desktop I get 50-70 C depending on what i'm doing. Playing games it rocks up to 95-100. No idea why, cooler seems to be working but who knows, can't tell if the pump is going as the fan on the radiator is always going nuts. Am getting a new air cooler in a couple of days to see if that fixes things, i'm assuming it will as I can only assume that the cooling isn't working properly (can CPUs be faulty and just run hot?).

No help i'm sure but in the same boat anyway 😉

I don't think it is your CPU. It could be the fault of many other things, or that cooler might just not be that great. See what the stock fan gets you and if that is giving worse than normal stock fan temps than that could signal something with the CPU.

 

[Laxswag]

It could be your pump, depending on age... However, "usually" they will normally let you know, by way of noise, excessive vibro, etc. Those pumps need a good 12v supply to feed them. Not sure how you had it connected on your previous MB, but check this out:

http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/275891-29-corsair-high-temperatures

http://www.tomshardware.com/answers/id-2611267/cpu-cooling-corsair-h60-high-temp.html

The second post shows a "temp-fix" putting the H60 fan being plugged into a MB system fan header and the pump into the CPU fan header. This SHOULD get you going for the moment, so your temps will drop back down... HOWEVER, you will need a MOLEX adapter for that pump to go straight to the PSU as I pointed out earlier, so the H60 fan can be plugged into the CPU fan-header, where it should be.

See how it goes... If this will work?

NOTE: Make sure to set your CPU FAN to 100% or MAX (whichever your BIOS shows), so that the pump is running at MAX capacity, when connecting the pump to the CPU fan-header... And adjust your H60 fan accordingly in BIOS, so that it's running at a setting (if possible) that mimics what it would if connected to the CPU fan-header, so it's keeping that rad cool.

Sorry that I forgot to mention that before

I have two CPU fan headers on my MSI Gaming 5. I tried switching to using system headers and it isn't showing any progress.

I already set up an RMA this morning but it will be at least Tuesday before I get a response from Corsair. I might just buy a new one soon anyway and get a refund on the H60 if I can. Any other tips here?

 

[amtseung]

My tip to you, as an H100i owner, is that AIO water coolers are horribly unreliable. They also have a really short lifespan. Mine lasted 22 months, pretty much on the dot, and went from holding down temps like a champ, to sounding like a drowning man being dragged out of a lake and given CPR whenever the pump starts on system boot. A buddy of mine bought an H110 2 weeks after I did, and his lasted the same 22 months minus one week, and sounds as ghastly as mine. If you want reliable cooling performance over a longer period of time, don't get an AIO. Stick with air cooling if you want long term reliability. I've used the same $15 Hyper TX3 over 5 iterations of hardware, and not once has it let me down.

 

[Laxswag]

My tip to you, as an H100i owner, is that AIO water coolers are horribly unreliable. They also have a really short lifespan. Mine lasted 22 months, pretty much on the dot, and went from holding down temps like a champ, to sounding like a drowning man being dragged out of a lake and given CPR whenever the pump starts on system boot. A buddy of mine bought an H110 2 weeks after I did, and his lasted the same 22 months minus one week, and sounds as ghastly as mine. If you want reliable cooling performance over a longer period of time, don't get an AIO. Stick with air cooling if you want long term reliability. I've used the same $15 Hyper TX3 over 5 iterations of hardware, and not once has it let me down.

Well I mean 22 months is just under 2 years and Corsair offers a 3 year warranty. You basically have a free 2 years of a cooler if that occurs, correct?

I would want to do a custom water cooling loop but it seems a bit pricey and just a bit too complicated for me. I know what I need and such, but I figure when I would get the stuff I would get stuck on maybe bending the hard tubing if I went that route or maybe I would get a pump that wouldn't match up performance-wise to the radiator I used etc.

 

[amtseung]

Well I mean 22 months is just under 2 years and Corsair offers a 3 year warranty. You basically have a free 2 years of a cooler if that occurs, correct?

It was 2 years of troubleshooting hell, from inconsistent temperatures, to Corsair Link failing to detect hardware on every Windows Update. I found out the hard way, any time the mounting pressure was just slighty off and there was uneven pressure on the cold plate, the impeller would catch. Didn't have that issue with the older Asetek OEM'ed H55, nor have I seen it be an issue on the newer GTX series, just my particular model with the square shiny plastic pump cover. I essentially paid $100 for a horrible experience and about 12 months of actual cooling performance, whereas my $15 heatsink fan has lasted over 4 years and has been trouble free since day 1. When that got real gunked up, just a couple spritzes of carb cleaner and some new thermal paste, and it's back in business.

Theoretically, it's roughly two years of a free cooler. In practice, it's $100 for roughly two years of cooling, because Corsair refused to recognise my H100i as warranty worthy. The pump still works, the unit doesn't leak, therefore I can't get an RMA, even if there's so much air in it that it's useless. I can't get a refund or a replacement. That's why I'm warning you, from AIO owner to AIO owner, that it's really not worth it in the long run.

 

[MeanMachine41]

Well I mean 22 months is just under 2 years and Corsair offers a 3 year warranty. You basically have a free 2 years of a cooler if that occurs, correct?

It was 2 years of troubleshooting hell, from inconsistent temperatures, to Corsair Link failing to detect hardware on every Windows Update. I found out the hard way, any time the mounting pressure was just slighty off and there was uneven pressure on the cold plate, the impeller would catch. Didn't have that issue with the older Asetek OEM'ed H55, nor have I seen it be an issue on the newer GTX series, just my particular model with the square shiny plastic pump cover. I essentially paid $100 for a horrible experience and about 12 months of actual cooling performance, whereas my $15 heatsink fan has lasted over 4 years and has been trouble free since day 1. When that got real gunked up, just a couple spritzes of carb cleaner and some new thermal paste, and it's back in business.

Theoretically, it's roughly two years of a free cooler. In practice, it's $100 for roughly two years of cooling, because Corsair refused to recognise my H100i as warranty worthy. The pump still works, the unit doesn't leak, therefore I can't get an RMA, even if there's so much air in it that it's useless. I can't get a refund or a replacement. That's why I'm warning you, from AIO owner to AIO owner, that it's really not worth it in the long run.

Have to say I have two systems running with Corsair AIO a H105i and a H110 and never had issues in the 3 years of use. Yes some do have bad experiences but thousands don't. I have to wonder why Corsair refused a Warranty claim if the unit was indeed an RMA.

 

[Laxswag]

Well I mean 22 months is just under 2 years and Corsair offers a 3 year warranty. You basically have a free 2 years of a cooler if that occurs, correct?

It was 2 years of troubleshooting hell, from inconsistent temperatures, to Corsair Link failing to detect hardware on every Windows Update. I found out the hard way, any time the mounting pressure was just slighty off and there was uneven pressure on the cold plate, the impeller would catch. Didn't have that issue with the older Asetek OEM'ed H55, nor have I seen it be an issue on the newer GTX series, just my particular model with the square shiny plastic pump cover. I essentially paid $100 for a horrible experience and about 12 months of actual cooling performance, whereas my $15 heatsink fan has lasted over 4 years and has been trouble free since day 1. When that got real gunked up, just a couple spritzes of carb cleaner and some new thermal paste, and it's back in business.

Theoretically, it's roughly two years of a free cooler. In practice, it's $100 for roughly two years of cooling, because Corsair refused to recognise my H100i as warranty worthy. The pump still works, the unit doesn't leak, therefore I can't get an RMA, even if there's so much air in it that it's useless. I can't get a refund or a replacement. That's why I'm warning you, from AIO owner to AIO owner, that it's really not worth it in the long run.

I am currently looking into like a cheap kit-style watercooling setup that you assemble and has some room to add extra blocks. I would go full into custom watercooling except the prices are so high.

 

[Laxswag]

Well I mean 22 months is just under 2 years and Corsair offers a 3 year warranty. You basically have a free 2 years of a cooler if that occurs, correct?

It was 2 years of troubleshooting hell, from inconsistent temperatures, to Corsair Link failing to detect hardware on every Windows Update. I found out the hard way, any time the mounting pressure was just slighty off and there was uneven pressure on the cold plate, the impeller would catch. Didn't have that issue with the older Asetek OEM'ed H55, nor have I seen it be an issue on the newer GTX series, just my particular model with the square shiny plastic pump cover. I essentially paid $100 for a horrible experience and about 12 months of actual cooling performance, whereas my $15 heatsink fan has lasted over 4 years and has been trouble free since day 1. When that got real gunked up, just a couple spritzes of carb cleaner and some new thermal paste, and it's back in business.

Theoretically, it's roughly two years of a free cooler. In practice, it's $100 for roughly two years of cooling, because Corsair refused to recognise my H100i as warranty worthy. The pump still works, the unit doesn't leak, therefore I can't get an RMA, even if there's so much air in it that it's useless. I can't get a refund or a replacement. That's why I'm warning you, from AIO owner to AIO owner, that it's really not worth it in the long run.

Have to say I have two systems running with Corsair AIO a H105i and a H110 and never had issues in the 3 years of use. Yes some do have bad experiences but thousands don't. I have to wonder why Corsair refused a Warranty claim if the unit was indeed an RMA.

Do you think they will accept my RMA since I am getting such high temps?

I am sort of leaning away with going with Corsair again for an AIO.

 

[Sam Hain]

One bad item does not damn a company or it's products... However, they SHOULD honor the warranty nonetheless if still within the warranty timeframe. Ask them what evidence they need to show; i.e. screen shots of CPU temps, steps you've taken to isolate, etc.

 

[Laxswag]

One bad item does not damn a company or it's products... However, they SHOULD honor the warranty nonetheless if still within the warranty timeframe. Ask them what evidence they need to show; i.e. screen shots of CPU temps, steps you've taken to isolate, etc.

I have done proof of purchase and cpu temps and such, they should honor it unless they will only honor leaks. I would rather go for a better looking and more custom loop but I haven't been able to see any recent water cooling projects in my Antec 1200 v3. It is a big case but all of the unneeded drive bays take up a lot of space.

 

[Sam Hain]

In the event they (Corsair) fail you: http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/best-cpu-coolers,4181-2.html

Frozen CPU has some custom kits here: http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l2/g59/c683/list/p1/XSPC_Products-XSPC_Water_Cooling_Kits.html

 

[Daniel_381]

Ive owned both the corsair h100i gt and now a h115i and found out the hard way that thier mounting system/brackets are totally inconsistent when it comes to clamping even pressure. I bought the new h115i when i had similar issues to you on a new mobo and cpu upgrade, only to find i had the exact same problem with the new unit. I fixed it by using a bracket and screw mounts from an old kuhler h20 which could only be screwed in as far as it needs to be for a perfect even pressure all over, this bought my idle and load temps down to exactly what i would expect from a 240mm rad aio. Check your mounts, dont overtighten and when you get it right you will know.