I7 7700k 90-100°F during low load (1-10%)

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storminox

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Nov 26, 2017
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My computer has an I7-7700k that is cooled by a H100i. It is at a constant 90°F at low loads, same with my graphics card (1080 Ti) which is at a constant 100°F at low loads. I replaced the thermal paste after a few months of it running as is. My case has 5 fans running at a positive airflow with a idle temp of 30°F.
 
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Darkbreeze
I don't know about the rest of it yet, but as far as the cooling is concerned, I'd start by switching your thermal readings to celcius. Nobody really uses fahrenheit and it's just liable to cause confusion anytime you ask for help.

As to the positive pressure, if your case does not have intake filtration then it might be somewhat helpful, to some degree, in combating dust from entering the system, BUT, it is far more stressful on your intake fan motors and bearings and cooling performance is reduced in an almost directly linear scale depending on how far the system leans towards the positive pressure side of the scale.

Negative pressure on the other hand always cools better. Bringing more air into the case is not particularly...
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All of the temps are in Fahrenheit, If 90-100°F is good I don't understand why i'm not getting the performance I should be getting with an i7-7700K and 1080 Ti, which makes me assume that it is throttling.
 
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When playing games they usually go to 130°F (~50% load), the 90-100°F is the temp when idle.
 
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I Usually use game stress tests, or just play the game doing cpu/gpu intensive things. Yet on games I could put everything on the lowest setting and only get 30 fps.
 
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I don't trust myself with overclocking so no I haven't overclocked. All of my drivers are up to date, and I play at 2560x1440.
 
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I've compared my score with some others with the same specs, some were upwards of +2000 of a score. A few of the games I have had issues with are the Arma series, PUBG, Skyrim, Blackwake,and some others.
 
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While you may find higher scores, many of those systems are OCed and even faked. The ones in the thread we have going are pretty well confirmed.

Is Windows fully up to date?

When you say "positive" airflow, what do you mean? Typically front and side fans pull cool air into the case, while rear and top fans exhaust (remove) hot air from the inside of the case. Optimal cooling is a matter of airflow.

While your temps appear to be good, I am still scratching my head regarding your performance. Have you scanned your system for malware/viruses lately?
 
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Windows is fully up to date,

By positive airflow I mean there are more fans pulling cool air in than pushing the hot air out. 2 front fans pull in air and 1 back fan pushes air out (not including the radiator)

I regularly scan my computer for viruses and malware and haven't had any for awhile now.
 
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I don't know about the rest of it yet, but as far as the cooling is concerned, I'd start by switching your thermal readings to celcius. Nobody really uses fahrenheit and it's just liable to cause confusion anytime you ask for help.

As to the positive pressure, if your case does not have intake filtration then it might be somewhat helpful, to some degree, in combating dust from entering the system, BUT, it is far more stressful on your intake fan motors and bearings and cooling performance is reduced in an almost directly linear scale depending on how far the system leans towards the positive pressure side of the scale.

Negative pressure on the other hand always cools better. Bringing more air into the case is not particularly beneficial if you cannot get the already heated air out of the case faster than you are bringing it in. A balanced approach that may lean slightly to one side or the other but is mostly symmetrical is really fine. I doubt that case cooling is your problem however. Even with your configuration you have enough airflow that heat is unlikely to be the cause of your woes unless we are not getting an accurate depiction of your thermal status.


I would recommend starting with a semi-clean slate by doing a clean install of the graphics card drivers. Often, when there has been multiple driver installations, especially if any previous driver version had issues or was buggy, there can be problems later on. Even when no such issues existed, layered installations can still become problematic. The issue could also simply be, and often is, a windows issue rather than anything related to the actual driver package or version.

Try this first and then we can move forward if it fails to help. Even if you HAVE previously used the DDU in the past, do it again, and be sure to start the DDU installation in safe mode by holding the shift button down while you click restart and then start the DDU after Windows has restarted in safe mode. In the past the DDU would automatically restart the system in safe mode but apparently that has been removed in recent versions. Running the DDU without being in safe mode can result in some problematic files or settings not being removed, which then leaves you exactly where you already are.

How to boot to safe mode in Windows 10:

https://www.digitalcitizen.life/4-ways-boot-safe-mode-windows-10



GPU card clean driver installation:

http://www.tomshardware.com/faq/id-2767677/perform-clean-install-video-card-drivers.html


Also, knowing your FULL system specifications would be helpful, particularly your memory and storage configurations.
 
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