[SOLVED] i7 9700K overheat issue

Jan 3, 2021
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Hi, I've just recieved my computer since now 1 months and basically, a friend built it for me cause i've no knowledge about computers in general. In Idle im runing actually at 36°C and when i'm starting a game like Call of Duty Warzone, the temperatures goes up so fast and hit the 80°C - 90° and even sometimes 100° but it doesn't stay at this temperatures, it just runs in average 80°C, with profile XMP activated, and OC Tuner II, sometimes the voltage (VID on Core Temp) hit the 1.45v

My PC specs are:

CPU: i7 9700k
Cooler: Noctua NH-C14
Motherboard: Asus Prime Z390-Plus
GPU: Gigabyte RTX 3080 Vision OC
Case: Corsair Carbide 175R

Is it normal to reach these temperatures with this CPU, I was planning on buying an AIO especially one of the Corsair series, because I got my actual air cooler in 2016 and it was dirty, of course I remove pretty much all the dust and put it into my new rig. Should I change my motherboard, cooler or my case ? Btw i'm sorry for my english, i'm not a native and I cannot really explain myself good.

Thanks !
 
Solution
No, that's not what I'm saying. I'm saying I don't think there's much headroom to be gained beyond the maximum single core boost frequency. But every CPU is completely different than every other CPU. So you can certainly TRY, but you need to be VERY aware and conscientious of what you are doing, what your temperatures are at, etc.

And keep in mind too, there is FAR more to overclocking than just what temperature your CPU is at.

There are VRM thermal and stability considerations. There are stability considerations for the CPU. There are memory considerations. There are at least two dozen other things that COULD be a factor regarding any overclock, it's not just "does it crash or blue screen" and "it's under X temperature". Those are...
Your CPU cooler is not sufficient for that CPU. That CPU cooler is meant for a MUCH lower power processor, and is usually reserved for small form factor builds with low TDP processors. You need a better cooler and depending on whether you added any case fans when the system was built OTHER than what it came with, which is just one fan, you may need to add additional case fans as well.

Anything over 85°C is BAD, and anything over 80°C is undesirable. And that's for when you are running an actual thermal stress test, not just for normal usage while using applications or playing games. If you're hitting those temps while doing only those things, then the problem is just that much worse. If you are seeing temperatures over 90°C, you need to STOP using this system NOW, before you damage something, and get a better cooler and probably also some additional case fans.

How many case fans are installed? Where are they installed, exactly? Which direction is EACH fan, for EACH location, blowing?

For now, you might try just removing the side panel to see if that drops temperatures any at all and if it does, by how much.

Don't worry about the English, we'll work through it. Your English is good enough. Better than half these fools who've been speaking it all their lives. LOL.
 
Jan 3, 2021
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Hi, thanks you for your fast answer.

I actually remove the front panel of that case, before I was hitting 80° constant even in tasks like watching some videos and stuff. I've 3 fans on the front, and 1 in the back for extraction. I wanted to take a Noctua NH-D15 for that CPU but I'm afraid that it doesn't feet in my case, as I saw it shouldn't. My friend who built the computer put the OC Tuner II, can it be the problem here ? As an addition of a bad cpu cooler.

By the way, i wanted to buy a AIO that feet in my case: the Kraken X62 from NZXT or Corsair H115i but i'm kinda afraid of leaks to be honest. What u recommand me to buy actually ?

I've done a OCCT stress test and here are the results, is it actually safe for a CPU to hit 1.54V ? I've literaly no knowledge about hardware so that's why I'm a bit worried.

1609744068-e57a1dce23bc3e385f6a481eedaf867a.png


1609744067-e560a504579705a7df61a481b523801d.png
 
Leaks are not much of a factor so much as failed/fouled pumps after a couple years....

Until you get a better cooling solution, in the meantime, certainly turn off any mainboard initiated OC- Genie/ preset nonsense, as you do not have the cooling capacity for that,,,,; see what your temps are at stock operation, 4.6 GHz all core turbo...(do not enable MCE, which would attempt to target 4.9 GHz all core turbo)....
 
Jan 3, 2021
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Okay I've changed the OC tuner II which is for waterblock/aio configuration, that's probably why my voltage were so high and now i'm running at 80° Max in Core Temp, I'll buy the
Corsair H115i pro do u guys think that it's enough ?
 

Stroker

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Dec 31, 2007
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Always a perfect response to first installing a AIO water solution, I know I did when I installed my first water cooler back on my AMD 8350. :)

Here are some links to threads I found that may help you combat the fear with knowledge. Hope they help.

https://forums.tomshardware.com/thr...~:text=Core temperatures above 85°,C or 221°F.
 

Karadjgne

Titan
Ambassador
A NH-C14(S) is a 200w capable cooler, shouldn't have any issues with a 9700k, even with some OC, although a straight locked core OC at max single turbo boost is pushing it.

I'd be using HWInfo (not Hwmonitor!) set for sensors only, and look at not only the individual core temps, but at the core voltages in general.

I dislike software OC in general, like Asus OC tuner, because they change too many settings, like BCLK, which put more stress on a cpu than warranted, and jack up temps as a result, beyond normal expectations from a manual OC.

Occt is not that reliable for temp base. It uses a linpack version from @ 2012 that pushes a cpu beyond simple 100% usage, can be upto 130ish % equivalent. So if occt is saying 80°C at 130%, you'll be closer to an actual limit of 70°C at 100%, and since games in general rarely if ever reach over 70% loads, you'll be running at @ 50-55°C.

Use Prime95 with AVX disabled, small fft. That'll give a 100% consistent load using the same instruction sets games use. A worst case gaming load.
 
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Stroker

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Okay I've changed the OC tuner II which is for waterblock/aio configuration, that's probably why my voltage were so high and now i'm running at 80° Max in Core Temp, I'll buy the
Corsair H115i pro do u guys think that it's enough ?


Most AIO coolers will be better than air cooling solutions so I would give a solid (y) for that cooler.

Also not mentioned is to make sure you have latest BIOS which always comes packed with updated code for compatibility with latest products. For the ASUS is pretty easy with the supplied EZ Tune program that should already be on the PC.
 
D

Deleted member 2838871

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By the way, i wanted to buy a AIO that feet in my case: the Kraken X62 from NZXT or Corsair H115i but i'm kinda afraid of leaks to be honest. What u recommand me to buy actually?

Don't be afraid. I used a Kraken X62 for nearly 4 years in my old 7700k/1080 Ti build and never had 1 single problem with it... at all. It was perfect... and did the job. I liked it enough I just put the Kraken Z73 in my new 10900k/3090 build and that cooler is also doing an amazing job keeping this oven of CPU cool.

I recommend the Kraken.
 
WHICH NH-C14 cooler do you actually have?

The NH-C14 or the NH-C14S?

Yes, disable, undo, turn off, or all of the above, the OC tuner II. I would highly recommend that you go into that utility, undo any changes, then uninstall it and never reinstall it again. That, and most of these type of bundled motherboard utilities just cause problems where otherwise no problem would exist, and they are a poor choice for overclocking in any case.

Then, I would go into the BIOS and reset the BIOS to the default settings, and then reconfigure your CPU cooler and case fans to the standard preset or if you prefer, then setup a custom fan curve profile for them.

Also, make sure you have the most up to date motherboard BIOS version that is available, not counting any "beta" versions.

Your case only supports tower coolers up to 160mm tall, so that eliminates many of the larger coolers. For choosing a cooler, what country are you in?

For testing your CPU to see if it is thermally compliant, my recommendation is to follow the instructions for thermal compliance testing in my guide, here:



Testing thermal compliance

Once you get to the Windows desktop, the first thing you will want to do is open HWinfo (Sensors only option), Core Temp or Ryzen Master and take a look at what your core and package temperatures are doing. At idle your core temps should be somewhere below 40°C in the majority of cases. Preferably somewhere in the mid to low 30’s. On some newer very high core count models, or if you are using the stock cooler (In which case you shouldn't be overclocking anyhow), then it might not be below the 40°C threshold.

If you are not overclocking and are ONLY testing the thermal compliance of the stock configuration, then don't be TOO concerned by a high idle temperature UNLESS you also have a high load temperature that is outside of spec. This WILL be affected by whatever the ambient temperature is in the room where you are, so if your are in a very warm region and have no air conditioning going you may have an idle temp that is a bit closer to 40. For cooler ambient rooms or regions it will likely show low 30’s-ish. Be aware that unless you have excessively high idle temps, say, above 40°C, then what your actual idle temps are is practically irrelevant. Cooler idle temps are not indicative of much of anything specific.

Very HIGH idle temps however DO indicate that there is likely a problem with an incorrectly installed CPU cooler heatsink, too high of CPU core voltage or some other cooling or voltage related issue. If you are using one of those other utilities I warned about in the beginning of this tutorial, it may also be that the utility is reporting falsely. In that case, go get HWinfo or CoreTemp and check again.

If idle temps seem fine, then leave your monitoring application open and run Prime95 (Either version 26.6 or the latest version with AVX/AVX2 disabled).

Choose the Small FFT option (NOT "Smallest FFT") and allow it to run for fifteen minutes. If you are using the latest version of Prime95 (Version 29.8 or newer) then you NEED to be sure to disable the AVX and AVX2 options in the main options window. When you disable AVX2 the option to disable AVX will become available. If at any point your core or package temperatures exceed 80°C for Intel or AMD Ryzen platforms, then click the “Test” menu at the top of the Prime95 window and select “stop” or “exit”. Do not simply click the "X" in the top right corner as that will NOT stop the stress test, it will only minimize it to the tray.

You MUST click Stop or Exit from the drop down TEST menu at the top left of the window to stop the stress test.


If you have an older AMD system that is pre-Ryzen, then measuring thermals is going to be a little different. If your AMD system IS a Ryzen based system, then testing will be the same as for Intel based systems.

On pre-Ryzen AMD systems they did not make, by any definition, measuring core temps accurate or reliable. On the low end of the scale their thermal sensor readings have long been laughable, sometimes showing temps that are well below what the ambient temperature is, which of course is not possible without some kind of Peltier cooler or active refrigeration. At the other end of the thermal range it’s not much better.

This is because AMD does not actually implement their sensor designs to be determined in the same way that Intel does. AMD uses a method known as distance to Tjmax. Tjmax being, in this case, the temperature at which AMD has determined bad stuff will start happening such as thermal throttling, shut downs and damage.

For this reason when you are testing thermal compliance, or just monitoring for general purposes, you need to be aware of this difference and purposely either use applications designed for use with AMD processors or make some settings changes in other utilities that will allow you to see distance to Tjmax rather than estimated core temps.

There are a couple of ways you can do this. First off, HWinfo generally has the appropriate fields which are labeled as Distance to Tjmax. I feel like the better choice though is either CoreTemp or AMD overdrive for monitoring Distance to Tjmax on AMD platforms. In CoreTemp you will need to go into the Options tab, click on Settings and on the Advanced tab check the box next to the setting for “Show distance to Tjmax in temperature fields” in order to change from the default and likely inaccurate core temperature display.

AMD overdrive shows Distance to Tjmax by default, and I don’t think there is any other way to monitor CPU thermals in that utility anyhow. Either of these is probably a good choice, but it’s also likely worth checking either CoreTemp or AMD overdrive against what you see for Distance to Tjmax in HWinfo and if the readings are pretty close to the same, just use HWinfo as there is a lot of other information available in the sensors display that is not available with these other two.

Regarding the actual Distance to Tjmax sensor readings, what you do NOT want to see is anything closer than 10°C Distance to Tjmax, ESPECIALLY if you are only in the first phase of your overclock configuration and have only made minor changes to the CPU multiplier and voltage at this point. If it drops below ten degrees to Tjmax you are getting very close to your thermal ceiling and need to revisit either your cooling solution or voltage settings.

If you can run the Prime95 version 26.6 or 29.8 (With AVX/AVX2 disabled) Small FFT (NOT "Smallest FFT". ONLY use the "Small FFT" for our purposes.) torture test for 15 minutes without exceeding 80°C for Intel/AMD Ryzen or dropping below 10°C thermal margin (AKA Distance to Tjmax) for AMD, then you are to some degree or other within specification for thermal tolerance.

It's important to note that when stopping or attempting to exit Prime95 that you MUST use the drop down file menu and choose either "Stop" or "Exit". Simply clicking the X in the top right corner like you would for most programs will not stop the test, and will leave it running in the system tray.

If you are very close to the edge however, this may be a warning sign that you don’t have much overclocking headroom since we’ve only barely set our multiplier to what is basically the all core equivalent of the default single core Turbo frequency (Speed). IF that is the case, you will want to either be very careful going forward or stop and think about upgrading your CPU cooler and perhaps looking at whether your case and case fan situation is really sufficient for what you are trying to do.






Stability testing

So, if you passed the thermal compliance phase the next step will be to test stability. I cannot over stress the importance of not cutting corners when it comes to stress testing. Do not listen to naysayers who try to tell you that if you simply run this or that for 15 minutes, or an hour, or can pass a specific benchmark without errors, that your system is stable. Do not listen to people who say that if it is only a gaming system then stability isn’t important so long as it doesn’t crash. This is unreliable.

It IS important, no matter WHAT you do on the system. Unstable CPU or memory configurations can thoroughly degrade an operating system, game files or other parts of your file system to the point of eventually making them unusable. Instability is also probably not the best thing for the hardware itself.
Do the tests. Do them for the length of time they should be done for and do not cut corners even though it is tempting to do. You will only be hurting yourself in the long run.

Open Realbench and run a 1 hour stress test to begin with. Choose the Stress test option by clicking on the Stress test button. Choose the one hour option. Set the memory option to approximately half of your total installed memory. We are not worried about testing memory right now. If you have more than 16GB of memory, choose the up to 16GB option. If you have 16GB of memory, choose the up to 8GB option. If you have 8GB or less, choose the up to 4GB option.

If you pass the 1 hour stress test and plan to try increasing your overclock a bit higher, then you can start again just as you did in the beginning but bump the CPU core frequency up by another 100-200mhz. If it will post and boot into windows, repeat the thermal test and the stress test.
If it will not POST and boot into windows, or if you get errors or bluescreens at any point, then you will need to bump up your CPU core voltage a bit and try again. We went over that in the beginning so that should be self explanatory at this point.


If you were not able to pass the one hour stress test, then also, you will want to go back into the bios and bump the voltage up a small amount. By small amount, I mean whatever minimal increment the BIOS will allow you to adjust it upwards in. If the voltage was at 1.32v and did not pass, or would not POST, or there were errors or bluescreens or the screen went black and (**)restarted then try bumping the CPU core voltage up to 1.325. If it was at 1.3v try 1.31. Etc.

(**Assuming it did not do so because of a low quality power supply. Very important to have a high quality power supply if you are going to be overclocking. Watts are not the only consideration. A unit with good, clean power that has low ripple and electrical noise is very important in order for the motherboard and voltage regulators to remain stable and not overheat as well.)

Every time you make a change in the bios to increase the CPU core voltage, YOU MUST RUN the thermal tests again to verify you are still within tolerance.

If however you passed the one hour stress test with no errors, no problems of any kind, and do not wish to raise the level of your overclock, or at any time if you get to the point where you are happy with the speed you have achieved up to that point, then you can go ahead and run the Realbench stress test again except this time run it for a full 8 hours.

If it passes that, then close Realbench and open Prime95 again. Choose the Blend test and run that for 8 hours. If it passes that, your system is probably about as stable as can be expected under almost any circumstances and you can call it a day if you are able to pass both of these tests and are still within thermal compliance. It’s worth noting that you may want to periodically check your maximum thermal readings on your monitoring software which you should leave running alongside any stress tests, just to make sure that you don’t exceed thermal limits while testing.

If you remained below the thermal ceiling when you ran the Small FFT Prime95 torture test though, you should not have any issues with thermals on either of these other tests anyway.
If you wish to take the stability testing one step further IN ADDITION to having passed both the Realbench 8 hr test and the Prime95 Blend mode 8 hr test, you can run Prime95 Small FFT for 24 hours and if you pass that there is little else you can do to assure that your system is stable in regard to your CPU overclock settings.

At this point you can move on to using your system normally again, or, if you wish to push things a little further to see how much more you can squeeze out of it, then you can simply start the whole process over again moving up incrementally from where you left off but it is terribly important that you always perform the thermal and stability tests after any changes so you don't end up creating tremendous problems for yourself later on or inadvertently damaging your hardware with an overclock that is beyond what your cooling system, motherboard and CPU are capable of sustaining.

If you have successfully achieved the overclock you were hoping for, then congratulations and at this point you can reconfigure your memory XMP settings or continue on to either tightening your memory timings or overclocking your memory, if you plan to do so.




Quick and dirty overview of overclocking validation procedure.

Set CPU multiplier and voltage at desired settings in BIOS. Do not use presets or automatic utilities. These will overcompensate on core and other voltages. It is much better to configure most core settings manually, and leave anything left over on auto until a later point in time if wish to come back and tweak settings such as cache (Uncore) frequency, System agent voltage, VCCIO (Internal memory controller) and memory speeds or timings (RAM) AFTER the CPU overclock is fully stable.

Save bios settings (As a new BIOS profile if your bios supports multiple profiles) and exit bios.

Boot into the Windows desktop environment. Download and install Prime95 version 26.6.

Download and install either HWinfo or CoreTemp.

Open HWinfo and run "Sensors only" or open CoreTemp.

Run Prime95, either version 26.6 OR the latest version WITH the AVX and AVX2 options disabled in the settings menu that pops up when you start up Prime95, and choose the "Small FFT test option". Run this for 15 minutes while monitoring your core/package temperatures to verify that you do not exceed the thermal specifications of your CPU.

(This should be considered to be 80°C for most generations of Intel processor and for current Ryzen CPUs. For older AMD FX and Phenom series, you should use a thermal monitor that has options for "Distance to TJmax" and you want to NOT see distance to TJmax drop below 10°C distance to TJmax. Anything that is MORE than 10°C distance to TJmax is within the allowed thermal envelope.)

If your CPU passes the thermal compliance test, move on to stability.

Download and install Realbench. Run Realbench and choose the Stress test option. Choose a value from the available memory (RAM) options that is equal to approximately half of your installed memory capacity. If you have 16GB, choose 8GB. If you have 8GB, choose 4GB, etc. Click start and allow the stability test to run for 8 hours. Do not plan to use the system for ANYTHING else while it is running. It will run realistic AVX and handbrake workloads and if it passes 8 hours of testing it is probably about as stable as you can reasonably expect.

If you wish to check stability further you can run 12-24 hours of Prime95 Blend mode or Small FFT.

You do not need to simultaneously run HWinfo or CoreTemp while running Realbench as you should have already performed the thermal compliance test PLUS Realbench will show current CPU temperatures while it is running.

If you run the additional stability test using Prime95 Blend/Small FFT modes for 12-24 hours, you will WANT to also run HWinfo alongside it. Monitor HWinfo periodically to verify that no cores/threads are showing less than 100% usage. If it is, then that worker has errored out and the test should be stopped.

If you find there are errors on ANY of the stability tests including Realbench or Prime95, or any other stress testing utility, you need to make a change in the bios. This could be either dropping the multiplier to a lower factor or increasing the voltage while leaving the multiplier the same. If you change voltage or multiplier at ANY time, you need to start over again at the beginning and verify thermal compliance again.
 
Ok, so
A NH-C14(S) is a 200w capable cooler, shouldn't have any issues with a 9700k

I 100% disagree, regardless of what "TDP" this cooler used to be listed with. We've seen a lot of coolers that say they can handle up to "X TDP" and while they might stop it from actually experiencing a thermal shutdown, anything over 60-70% of that cooler's listed TDP is putting it in a range where the results will not be acceptable. Also, as seen in the Frostytech review results, the Hyper 212 Plus outperforms this cooler, and the Hyper 212 Plus is certainly not a cooler I'd tell anybody was capable enough for the 9700k.

Furthermore, the 9700k, even at the stock configuration, exceeds the "listed TDP" offered by Intel, which is nothing new, since their TDP listings are only for the base clock configuration, not for the maximum stock boost power consumption.

235w in handbrake. 221w in Cinebench. As much as 255w when LIGHTLY overclocked to 5.1Ghz.

https://www.techspot.com/review/1730-intel-core-i9-9900k-core-i7-9700k/page3.html

225w at stock. 325w when overclocked.


So it MIGHT, just BARELY, be able to handle this CPU at stock configurations although it's likely going to be pushing it's capabilities and be loud anytime you are doing anything even remotely demanding, but it's not going to be a "comfortable ride", but in ANY kind of overclocked configuration, even by as much as probably a measly 100mhz OC, it's going to start going way past what is even within the realm of believability in terms of it's capabilities.

And that's assuming theirs been no loss of internal coolant in a CPU cooler that has been discontinued for a good many years. Vapour chambers DO go bad over time in some cases. Probably not, but it's possible.


So while using this CPU cooler, do not overclock. At all. Period.

If you want to overclock, you need MUCH more capable cooling. IMO if you want to overclock to any significant degree, not that there is all that much overhead on these CPUs to allow for significant overclocking but assuming you have an excellent CPU sample, I'd want a CPU cooler rated for at least 300w. Honestly, you aren't going to get that much more from it anyhow doing that, and if it were my hardware, even being a fairly avid overclocker through the years, I'd probably either just leave it at the stock configuration OR maybe bring all the cores up to equal with what the stock single core boost speed is able to sustain, which is 4.9Ghz, and I'd do it manually so I could control the applied voltages and other factors such as ring clock/cache ratio, VCCIO, VCCSA, LLC, etc.

If any of that is deemed to be beyond your capabilities to understand, with reading and watching videos on the subject to educate yourself about them, then I'd just leave off even trying to bother with it and run it at the stock settings. Even if you get a better cooler.
 
No, that's not what I'm saying. I'm saying I don't think there's much headroom to be gained beyond the maximum single core boost frequency. But every CPU is completely different than every other CPU. So you can certainly TRY, but you need to be VERY aware and conscientious of what you are doing, what your temperatures are at, etc.

And keep in mind too, there is FAR more to overclocking than just what temperature your CPU is at.

There are VRM thermal and stability considerations. There are stability considerations for the CPU. There are memory considerations. There are at least two dozen other things that COULD be a factor regarding any overclock, it's not just "does it crash or blue screen" and "it's under X temperature". Those are just the most basic, commonly known considerations.

But I also mean YES, you should NOT overclock that processor, using any kind of automatic utility like the OC Tuner II or even any of the automatic presets that may be available in the BIOS. If you have to go that route, you should just stick with the stock performance, which is already more than most people actually need anyhow. I do fine with an older 6700k and an RTX 2060 Super. If you can't get where you need to be with a 9700k and 3080, then either something is wrong, your expectations are too high and unrealistic or you need to increase some settings and take a little of the load off the CPU.
 
Solution
Jan 3, 2021
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Okay, I've changed from the Carbide 175 to a Corsair 4000D Airflow, I've mounted the H115i on the top and i'm now at 60° in game and 80° in OCCT stress test and still on OC Tuner 2 since i cannot remove it and I don't know how to flash my bios
 
What do you mean you cannot remove it? Are you talking about the OC Tuner II desktop software application or the BIOS utility?

Those temps are totally acceptable though if by "OCCT stress test" you mean "OCCT small data set".

Which motherboard do you actually have? The Prime Z390m-Plus (micro ATX) or the TUF Z390 Plus Gaming (Full size ATX)?
 
Jan 3, 2021
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I mean that I have only threeoptions: OC Tuner I, OC Tuner II and Keep current settings, when I do the keep current settings it just keep the OC Tuner that was before or I'am wrong ?
 
I mean that I have only threeoptions: OC Tuner I, OC Tuner II and Keep current settings, when I do the keep current settings it just keep the OC Tuner that was before or I'am wrong ?
I have no idea what you mean by this. Go into the add and remove programs applet and remove OC Tuner. ALL instances of OC Tuner that are installed. That is what I am saying. Then, reset the BIOS by going into the BIOS and choosing the option to reset to the default or optimal default settings.