Question i9 10900k running extremely hot

Jun 19, 2021
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My i9 10900k is not OC but yet get hot at the slightest task. Under no load, it runs close to 47-55C, but the moment I do the slightly task like opening Chrome or any video editing program it jumps to 70-80C.
When I'm trying to render a 3D scene Blender, it reaches 97-100C regardless of whether I have CPU turned on in the cycles system settings(I mainly render on my RTX3090).

I have the MSI MAG CoreLiquid 360R v2 and I live in the tropics so the climate is quite warm, its usually between 20 and 32C almost all the time.

I've also been facing a bunch of BSODs on this PC when rendering or scrubbing 4k videos in Davinci resolve and After Effects.

Here are some of them:
PAGE_FAULT_IN_NONPAGED_AREA
SYSTEM SERVICE EXCEPTION
IRQL NOT LESS OR EQUAL
PAGE FAULT IN NON PAGED AREA
KERNEL SECURITY CHECK FAILURE

On bluescreenview 'caused by driver' says ntoskrnl.exe

My specs:
i9 10900k, MB: MSI MEG Z490 UNIFY, 64GB RAM(corsair 32x2), MSI RTX 3090 SUPRIM, nvme: 1TB,500GB, 3 sata hard drives, MSI MAG CoreLiquid 360R v2. Running Windows 10 (latest update)

I initally suspected that it could be related to RAM so I tried running memory diagnostic tool and after a while of running it, it came back with no errors. But I was suggested to try running the PC
with new RAM so I bought a new set of RAM 32GB x2 just in case there was an issue with it, but that didn't solve it either.
All my drivers are up to date.


Here's my minidump- https://drive.google.com/file/d/1K9bIyHr34vVJZ6I5ANNPYIRX9ICULpM9/view?usp=sharing


I got this PC built about a year ago and have always had issues with BSODs :/ A friend who works with computers suggested that it could be because of a faulty CPU or Motherboard but I really dont know where to start.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!
 

alexbirdie

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MSI MAG CoreLiquid 360R v2
If CPU becomes too hot, is must have something to do with the cooler or with the airflow in the case.

Either pump of AIO not running, the fans of the radiator not at optimal speed, cooler not mounted properly, too few or too much thermalpaste.

"Under no load, it runs close to 47-55C " : too high.
 
Reactions: RagAK
Jun 19, 2021
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Thanks a lot for your response.
The Cooler is pretty much brand new (been a few weeks since I got the replacement on my previous cooler of the same model which had a faulty pump). If I remember correctly it always was running this hot :/

I'll check the mount and reapply thermalpaste and get back to you.

Regarding the BSODs do you think they are because of it running so hot?

Thanks
 

alexbirdie

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Regarding the BSODs do you think they are because of it running so hot?
I suppose, without knowing your system and the situations of the BSOD nobody can say this.

You have different kinds of crashes, and usually there should be some dumps. Windows-specialists might help you with those dumps.

You wrote: "
If I remember correctly it always was running this hot :/
"
That means, your old AIO was buggy and CPU as hot as with the new one? perhaps something is wrong with the installation of the AIO in your case. What's about the airflow? Best would be 2 fans in the front blowing in, 1 at the back blowing out and AIO mounted in the top of the case.
 
Reactions: RagAK

Eximo

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Could be as simple as the default motherboard profile for the 10900K is applying too much voltage and multi-core enhancement. Check for that.

Fire up a monitoring tool like Hardware Info and see what the wattage of that CPU is. Maxed out you should see 125-150W, if it is closer to 200W then the core voltage is likely getting too high. Should be under 1.4 volts at full load.
 
Reactions: RagAK
Jun 19, 2021
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Have you gone to your bios and set you aio pump to pwm mode instead of dc???
Sometimes mobos do this sort of thing
When I go into the bios fan control, there are multiple tabs -
cpu 1 set to auto(there both options)
Pump 1 - pwm
System 1,2,3,4,5,6 - dc
Mos-pwm

Is this OK?
Thanks!
 
Jun 19, 2021
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omg I just discovered something unbelievable. Backstory- A few weeks ago my previous cooler's pump failed and I claimed warranty for it. The store that sold me the machine insisted that I take it to a recommended service shop and they'll swap it out for me and they wouldn't let any customers in when I requested that I watch it.

Today I was scared to do anything because it was constantly going over 80C and often hitting 96+C. I got some new thermal paste and took off the cooler mount only to realize that the guy who installed it hadn't take off the little PLASTIC COVER stuck to the mount plate on the cooler end. How unbelievably ridiculous! I'm actually surprised it lasted the 2 weeks that it has and not just melted away(I'm a noob myself and I wasn't really paying attention to the temps all this while, but I did notice the fans were blowing a lot more than usual which is why I started the troubleshooting ). After I removed the sticker and applied thermal paste freshly it seems to be significantly cooler. What was 55 at idle is now at 40. And max load when I'm 3D rendering on CPU it barely reaches 65-70 vs 100C!

Although I really don't if all this heat over the last few weeks would have affected the CPU and/or MB and reduced its life. Should I demand that they provide a new MB and CPU as replacements? Would love your thoughts and suggestions on this ridiculously dumb situation.

I still need to experiment and see if the BSOD issues exist.

I really appreciate how helpful you guys have been. Thanks!
 
Jun 19, 2021
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What is your chassis, and where did you mount this thing?


I might have to add this cooler to my list of avoids/don't buys, 'cause it sounds like they still didn't fix the contaminated coolant problem with Apaltek.
I have the MSI creator 400M chassis. The radiator of the cooler is mounted vertically in the front because the pump is placed inside the radiator down below. The cooler itself seems like a decent product as of now. Will be happy to test anything if you have suggestions. thanks!
 

Phaaze88

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MSI creator 400M chassis. The radiator of the cooler is mounted vertically in the front because the pump is placed inside the radiator down below.
Looks like an easy way to choke airflow when the door's closed.

Will be happy to test anything if you have suggestions. thanks!
Even when you do find a problem with an AIO, majority of the time, the solution is a complete replacement. That's one of their downsides.
Just in case: the AIO's fans are aimed to move air inside the PC, right? Here's a reference to fan airflow direction:


Liquid flow check:
1)Remove the side panel.
2)Put the cpu under a heavy load, be it Cinebench R23(thermal test) or Blender.
3)While one of the apps in #2 is running, feel both of the tubes.
-Good flow: One feels slightly warmer, or you have trouble telling the difference.
-Poor flow: There's a significant hot and cold difference between them.
 
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alexbirdie

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I got some new thermal paste and took off the cooler mount only to realize that the guy who installed it hadn't take off the little PLASTIC COVER stuck to the mount plate on the cooler end.
Great to hear, that there was really a mounting problem of the AIO and that you found it and temperatures went down.

by Phaaze88: "
Just in case: the AIO's fans are aimed to move air inside the PC, right? Here's a reference to fan airflow ".

I have mounted my AIO at the top and fans are blowing out air through the radiator. I do have good experience with it, because airflow in the case is better ( +2 fans in the front blowing in and 1 rear blowing out).
 

Phaaze88

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I have mounted my AIO at the top and fans are blowing out air through the radiator. I do have good experience with it, because airflow in the case is better ( +2 fans in the front blowing in and 1 rear blowing out).
Unlike your Corsair Carbide 678C, the Msi Creator 400M doesn't have any form of top ventilation - it's straight front to back for this one.
I wanted to be sure the front AIO was positioned to bring air inside the PC; some users have gotten it wrong.
 

alexbirdie

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Unlike your Corsair Carbide 678C, the Msi Creator 400M doesn't have any form of top ventilation - it's straight front to back for this one.
I wanted to be sure the front AIO was positioned to bring air inside the PC; some users have gotten it wrong.
Yes, I know. Therefore you are right with bringing air into the case with the AIO., although not optimal, because you do not have a choice.

When I selected my case, my intention was to find one with the possibility to install a 360-AIO ( even a 420 would fit) at the top ( no big tower, only middle, and there are not many cases with this specifications).
 

Phaaze88

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Yes, I know. Therefore you are right with bringing air into the case with the AIO., although not optimal, because you do not have a choice.
Depends on what the user does with their hardware. Both have their caveats - IMO, front cpu AIO(no bigger than 280mm) has more going for it overall, especially with that beefy gpu in there.

I guess the OP could leave the door(400M) open... maybe not; someone might trip and snap the thing off...
 

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