[SOLVED] Inconsistent Xbox 360 controller using a old Z87-K board

Jan 22, 2020
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So I have this build for a long time and I always had this issue the controller feels 'weird' in games. Sometimes reconnecting in a USB port makes a huge difference.

This mobo has an issue that i know off, one of the USB ports will close my computer with a power surge message, I guess some wrong voltage or something. Is this an indication that I cannot expect my inputs to be 100 % perfect and that the MOBO is done from a gaming perspective? I got a usb card and a usb extension for 4 of the aditional usb ports available on this mobo and this hasn't fixed anything. The cpu is an intel I5-4570

Right now I am using it for Rocket League only and simply put I am the worst player in every match doesn't matter ranked or not until I fix this (when I can most of the times I can't). The RT (analog acceleration in this game) feels different as if when the issue is fixed I have more range and more upper range and its delivered smooth, the jumps feel more powerful , the timings feel different. Just yesterday I was struggling in every match then I reconnected the usb wireless adapter and poof, the next 6-7 matches I was the fastest in the game, getting assists, 3-4 goals per match etc. Before I wasnt never near the action not even in casual matches, it's maddening

It's so damn weird, I cant perform well in training arena, feels like some inputs are just ignored and instead of delivering a 0-100 smooth RT or stick movement the game receives less inputs clumped together or something. It simply makes the game unplayable even though there is no clear visible difference, I cannot measure or attest this in any way other than I know when the issue is there or not

At this point I am just thinking to get a used compatible mobo and see if this issue will go away.

Aany other ideas, can I check this mobo for usb issues with software or any other way? I'm taking any advice because I currently own a random gaming system and it's no fun.
 
I would cut the faulty USB completely off the board, or if you know someone replace it with a new USB header (soldering would be necessary)

The ATX i/O shield is pretty much bend and might be a different problem as well for USB connections

Are the front usb ports fine?

Other things are just for testing, but I really think this USB port and the I/O shield is the culprit

1600MHz is the native speed of the I5-4570, just to rule out that there is a problem with the "overclocked" RAM

In userbenchmark it states that you are using driver version 20.1.3, the latest would be 20.2.2 released in March.
https://www.amd.com/en/support/graphics/radeon-500-series/radeon-rx-500-series/radeon-rx-580
The AMD clean install doesn´t work like DDU uninstaller,
AMD clean install means resetting the settings to default and reinstalling the newer driver.
DDU uninstaller deletes all files and registry entries from windows, including all drivers previously installed on this windows installation.
 
Reactions: gabi222
update the BIOS of the motherboard
https://www.asus.com/en/support/FAQ/1012815

reset the BIOS by jumper

check all USB ports for bent pins or dust/dirt inside the ports

remove the case front panel USB ports from the motherboard

is it a wired or wireless xbox controller?

Use USB2.0 ports

I doubt that the motherboard is the problem if the USB card has the same problems. Is it PCIe?

Check the controller in windows game settings, calibrate the controller
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=34&v=WxUnwrBwp0A&feature=emb_logo

Maybe the controller is faulty
 
Jan 22, 2020
17
1
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update the BIOS of the motherboard
https://www.asus.com/en/support/FAQ/1012815

reset the BIOS by jumper

check all USB ports for bent pins or dust/dirt inside the ports

remove the case front panel USB ports from the motherboard

is it a wired or wireless xbox controller?

Use USB2.0 ports

I doubt that the motherboard is the problem if the USB card has the same problems. Is it PCIe?

Check the controller in windows game settings, calibrate the controller
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=34&v=WxUnwrBwp0A&feature=emb_logo

Maybe the controller is faulty
I see, can you tell me what did you mean with the dust inside ports or bent pins? Is this a general issue that must be avoided. TBH I never clean those ports . Anyway one port cannot influence the others right?

I had to reset the bios just 2 days ago (a coincidence I was having an issue after altering some bios settings) so that's not helping

I am using only usb 2.0 ports. I have disconnected everything i had in front panel including some sound. The system has only the minimum necessart connected at this point (i did that to troubleshoot this, i thought maybe some component like the fan controller was inducing some current variations etc)

It's a wireless controller but i bought it precisely to avoid this issue that has been happening since forever on this system. Previously I went trough 3 wired xbox controllers that had same issue.

This controller is almost brand you, works flawlessly as sticks go, I am using a bit of deadzone i think 7 % to avoid the slightest left stick drift.

Why wouldnt it be the MOBO expecially because one usb port in the back is literally resetting my system when i connect anything in?

There is literally no logical explanation for this behaviour. There is no way the controller can work in a way in some ports and feel different in other ports unless some really weird issue

The single most clear test for me was that 2 years ago or so i was playing Fifa against same guy, using manual only settings (so the controller movement is really important because the ball goes where you aim) and when the controller was fine I was destroying that guy, like he had no chance and was always 2-3 goals down and wasnt even seeing the ball, he got so mad he would quit playing after 2-3 matches max. And then when this issues was present I was struggling to even make simple passes, the players were moving weird. Now in RL i have this exact same issue, I'm other incredibly good (on the rare occasions when the controller feeels fine) or literally useless. I'm not talking about a couple matches I'm talking about gameplay for 2-3 hours.

I bought new RAM new PSU new GPU (well they needed changing anyway) and the issue is still there.
Isnt it possible the mobo has some issues and the ports are sending signals with interruptions or delays or something like this?
 
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Jan 22, 2020
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Did you update the BIOS yet?

try USB 3.0

one USB can have an effect to others, these are bound together like an external USB hub.

broken plastic
https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcTew_oQN4Ozyim8K1ddyQi9X8Y5z00CWJ96uUX0UlwuWAxacBAM&s

bend pin
https://i2.wp.com/www.switchdoc.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/IMG_3379.jpg?ssl=1


could be lagging of your internet connection or system as well

run userbenchmark.com and post the link of your result
I did an update for bios some time ago but since I reset it I guess is lost right?

This is the UserBenchMark test link
https://www.userbenchmark.com/UserRun/25353733



So yeah as I told you one of the USB from the back plate is triggering a high voltage or something (dont remember the exact message but the system will reboot and get stuck with a message about this). Do you think the mobo can be affected by this even though i dont use it anymore?
 
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check the Kingston SSD with the Kingston tool box and update its firmware if available

The BIOS version will not be resetted, only the settings inside the installed BIOS

Do you think the mobo can be affected by this even though i dont use it anymore?
Yes, could be a problem, because the USB ports are connected to each other on the motherboard, but the feature of your ASUS might be false alarming you. Which USB port is it exactly? Sometimes the ATX I/O shield can cause this error, if it´s not inserted correctly. You could try to run the system out of the case and have a look if it is running fine then.

use DDU uninstaller to remove the AMD drivers and reinstall the latest amd.com driver 20.2.2

set the memory to• DDR3-1600 CL9-10-9 @1.5V
instead of 1866MHz

also try a cleanboot
https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/help/929135/how-to-perform-a-clean-boot-in-windows
 
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Jan 22, 2020
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check the Kingston SSD with the Kingston tool box and update its firmware if available

The BIOS version will not be resetted, only the settings inside the installed BIOS


Yes, could be a problem, because the USB ports are connected to each other on the motherboard, but the feature of your ASUS might be false alarming you. Which USB port is it exactly? Sometimes the ATX I/O shield can cause this error, if it´s not inserted correctly. You could try to run the system out of the case and have a look if it is running fine then.

use DDU uninstaller to remove the AMD drivers and reinstall the latest amd.com driver 20.2.2

set the memory to• DDR3-1600 CL9-10-9 @1.5V
instead of 1866MHz

also try a cleanboot
https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/help/929135/how-to-perform-a-clean-boot-in-windows
Damn I checked that port and it has a metal visible on top of the plastic. I uploaded 2 if you have time to check them:
https://streamable.com/d35nr

This looks pretty bad right, I think that's causing the reboot right?

As for RAM I did try to run it at a lower freq, this is the default setting. The RAM itself is 1866, why were you thinking to use it at 1600? I will give it a try anyway.

The graphics driver was installed cleanly last time and it's the most recent one from february i think, AMD Software now has a clean option itself when installing a new driver.

I am almost sure this has got something to do with usb ports because I know i was reconnecting the controller several times (for Fifa) and at some point the micro stuttering was gone. Same thing happened 2 days ago in RL, i was frustrated for about 1-2 hours then i simply reconnected the damn wireless usb thing and it felt like a different game 2 seconds later. At this point I have zero trust in any usb peripheral because seeing how reconnecting will make a game perform different is just maddening. I played a bit of Project Cars as well and it's hard to control the car with a controller because it's somewhat realistic. Still on the rare occasions the controller was fine the game was fun and the rest of the time i end up spinning like an idiot at every turn and the AI was faster then me. No setting change nothing, simply randomness. The weirdest thing on this system I swear

Anyway maybe you have an opinion after you see that USB port maybe you think that could cause peripherals instability. If I knew what is causing this I am changing it right away but I simply cannot know if this is a hardware issue or simply windows adding some stupid driver that messes the system or something else. This<Mod Edit> is unsolvable :(
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I would cut the faulty USB completely off the board, or if you know someone replace it with a new USB header (soldering would be necessary)

The ATX i/O shield is pretty much bend and might be a different problem as well for USB connections

Are the front usb ports fine?

Other things are just for testing, but I really think this USB port and the I/O shield is the culprit

1600MHz is the native speed of the I5-4570, just to rule out that there is a problem with the "overclocked" RAM

In userbenchmark it states that you are using driver version 20.1.3, the latest would be 20.2.2 released in March.
https://www.amd.com/en/support/graphics/radeon-500-series/radeon-rx-500-series/radeon-rx-580
The AMD clean install doesn´t work like DDU uninstaller,
AMD clean install means resetting the settings to default and reinstalling the newer driver.
DDU uninstaller deletes all files and registry entries from windows, including all drivers previously installed on this windows installation.
 
Reactions: gabi222
Jan 22, 2020
17
1
15
0
I would cut the faulty USB completely off the board, or if you know someone replace it with a new USB header (soldering would be necessary)

The ATX i/O shield is pretty much bend and might be a different problem as well for USB connections

Are the front usb ports fine?

Other things are just for testing, but I really think this USB port and the I/O shield is the culprit

1600MHz is the native speed of the I5-4570, just to rule out that there is a problem with the "overclocked" RAM

In userbenchmark it states that you are using driver version 20.1.3, the latest would be 20.2.2 released in March.
https://www.amd.com/en/support/graphics/radeon-500-series/radeon-rx-500-series/radeon-rx-580
The AMD clean install doesn´t work like DDU uninstaller,
AMD clean install means resetting the settings to default and reinstalling the newer driver.
DDU uninstaller deletes all files and registry entries from windows, including all drivers previously installed on this windows installation.
Hm so you think the I/O shield in my case is bent and could cause issues? Maybe I can go and have it replaced somewhere. As for the USB port I guess cutting it is a delicate operation, I have no idea how can that be achieved. But your overall thinking is that given those issues I could be expecting some weird peripherals behavior (even if they are connected on a an entire different usb card and not directly in the mobo ports). I am using the internal USB ports for a external audio card i bough and for an audio system so some MOBO USB ports are still under use currently

The front usb are actually pretty messed up, one is not working at all and other looks pretty bent on the lower side (metal is split a bit) but I think have disconnected everything in the front including audio ports and fan controller and i left only the system panel connectors. Unless the front panel is inducing some problems trough the system panel wires (I'm only speculating I have no idea about these issues)

Thanks a lot for your input and I am checking the rest in the meantime including running the RAM at 1600 MHz
 
Jan 22, 2020
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1600MHz is the native speed of the I5-4570, just to rule out that there is a problem with the "overclocked" RAM
I think this was the issue. Since running the RAM at 1600 Mhz, Rocket League at least behaves entirelly different. It looks smooth when moving the camera around, before it had a weird 'frame dragging' all the time. So game was reporting 250 fps but felt more like a stuttering 70-80. Also got rid of a weird video artefact that was following my car (not very visible but still there) . I am actually stumped of the difference in how the game looks and feels

So sometime last year I bought a new 144 Hz monitor, an RX 580 and then I think 3-4 months later I bought the 1866 RAM to replace some old RAM . I think at some point I noticed something is off but didn't made the connection and never thought about it because I knew the mother board supports that frequency. I didnt knew about CPUs being rated at a certain RAM freq, looks like my cpu and this RAM were not having the best time so thanks for pointing that fact, that was completelly missing from my knowledge of components.

F me for getting the 1866, I remember looking at it and at some 1600 and thinking yeah the 1866 must be better sure lets get this one.

Thanks a lot again, I have no idea what was happening system wise but rocket league at least looks like an entire different game, the difference is that huge.

One other important thing, the mouse in Windows, it was literally moving like i had some random acceleration enabled and I always have the enhance pointer precision off. Not something huge but just enough to be annoying and inconsistent. So so weird
 
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