Inspiron 570 upgrades.

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Nojoke

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Apr 15, 2013
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About to switch to GW2, really dont want to build a new PC until just before the launch of Elder Scrolls Online.

I've got an Inspiron 570:

AMD Athlon II X4 630 @ 2.8GHz
6GB RAM
64-bit OS
HD 4200 graphics card



I had already asked a similar question in GPU and was told a 7750 upgrade would help me along. Then I discovered this: http://en.community.dell.com/support-forums/desktop/f/3514/t/19490818.aspx


So now I'm curious as to upgrading PSU, CPU, RAM along with GPU. Here's what I have so far:

AMD Phenom II X4 965 BE
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819103727

Crucial 2x4GB DDR3
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820148347

XFX Double D HD7850 2GB
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814150609

And PSU I'm still confused on.

Ive NEVER done any hardware work or OC'ing on anything. I've been reading and studying alot about it but have yet to do it so this will be my first learning experience. I will try to OC that 965 at some point and I suppose will need cooling when I do but for now I just want to put myself into a good position to tinker, learn and game until the launch of ESO a year or so from now. The game I will be playing the most is Guild Wars 2.

Is this an alright build? Is this a good place to start learning? Will this achieve GW2 for me? Budget is $500ish, have I used this budget well enough? What PSU is going to work with these part and be compatible with the terrible MOBO from Dell I have (4GJJT I think)? Suggestions? Instructions? Things to watch out for?
 
Solution
Kisianik
Just measured space for GPU. Height 4 inches or 100 mm under HDD, if HDD moved to the slot closer to DVDROM, height is 5 inches or 130 mm, length to HDD mount is 9.5 inches or 240 mm, maximum length almost to the opposite panel (space left due to power switch) 13-13.5 inches or 340 mm.
According to those numbers, you can fit your GPU only if you move your HDD to the slot closer to DVD (or your HDD can be laready there, don't remember), if you have 2 HDDs, there could be a problem.
Just a reminder, I checked my old case without motherboard and other parts, so numbers are not 100% exact.
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The link you found is awesome. It lays everything out for you.

One thing to be mindful of is you are putting money into a dead end system. ESO is suppose to be out this year. If you plan on building a new computer just for that, I don't see why you would want to drop $500 in your current system. Grant it, you will see a huge performance increase with those upgrades. I guess it comes down to if you want to have two computers in the near future. You could probably build a computer for $500 that can run the same (if not better) for the parts you listed. The new build would also be scale-able for future upgrades.

As for OC. It's a simple concept once you learn it. There's a lot of reading that comes with it though. Here's a thread about overclocking Phenoms http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=596023 .

Power supplies are easy. You don't really have to worry about compatibility. Simply plug and chug. Corsair, Seasonic, Antec and XFX are the popular brands because of their quality. You won't need more than 550-600w. (Maybe modulare PSU so you don't have a ton of cables everywhere).
http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=100007657%2050001459%20600014020&IsNodeId=1&name=451W%20-%20500W
http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=100007657%2050001697%20600014021&IsNodeId=1&name=501W%20-%20600W

I think your trouble will be with an aftermarket heatsink for your CPU. The you should probably follow the suggestions in the dell thread when it comes to heatsink. Size will matter for that dell case.

This is a pretty good start for gaming. This build will demolish GW2, no question. But again, think about why you are doing this and why you have to have a new build after you've done this. Why not just have one now? Why not just wait a few months?
 
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The idea on down the road towards ESO was to build a very serious system for editing, programming and gaming. I wanted to wait for price drops for the build I have been saving for. Titan x2, Rampage IV Extreme, Intel 3970x, dual monintor etc. etc. Ive got almost $2000 of that saved and have plenty of time. I want to do video editing, programming and smash every game I come across.

Then my guild decided to leave WoW... this Inspiron 570 wont take me to GW2 and though hopefully ESO comes late this year it could be March next year. So... I started doing some digging. Then I found this Dell forum and decided instead of just throwing in a new GPU, why dont I start learning to build before I drop $3k+ on a more serious build? I figured I might as well spend $500 max on this little project and that could carry me a year or more plus give me plenty to learn and toy with. When the time comes I can pass this computer off to my dad or something who needs a new gaming rig anyway.

Any particular PSU rating I should be shooting for? I wont be doing heatsink until next month or so when I start looking more seriously into OC... unless I need one for it at stock speeds? I know the rest of this stuff is plug and play, are CPU's difficult to install? Is there a more in-depth guide relating reliable information concerning how to upload BIOS, drivers, and even how to unplug old CPU and plug in new CPU that you are confident in?

I also keep hearing about these $500-600 builds. I was at $420-something with just these parts + Corsair GS600 PSU. It's not that I doubt you guys, which are far more educated than I. And to be able to start a system from scratch might be even more fun. If someone has the want/time to show me an example of a 500-600$ build that would outpace the planned upgrades on mine I would be more than willing to entertain the idea.
 
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Thank you people for noticing my guide, appreciate the words, no joke. Regarding games, currently I have MSI 660 instead of MSI 550TI (the rest of my signature is the same) And I can play Battlefield 3 on Ultra at about 60 FPS. I dont know anything about WOW or GW, but I guess my current setup will be very good there as well. What is important, following parts can be transferred to next build: case, power supply, CPU cooler (depends, but I hope), SSD and GPU. What is most likely is waste in case of new build: CPU ($75), RAM ($ about 60-70) and maybe CPU cooler ($ about 50-60) - so, if you plan ahead, you can waste about $200 now, overclock, and get to the top for cheap. And use good parts later.
Regarding overclocking - with Dell you MUST FOLLOW MY GUIDE, regular BIOS overclocking is NOT APPLICABLE HERE.
Anything else?
 
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Well then, Mr. Moneybags. lol If you want to do this to learn about overclocking and just computer parts in general, then it is a good start. When you look at PSU rating it could a little overwhelming. Basically, the rating is the level of efficiency that the PSU performs. So with power (the electrical engineering topic, take a guess what my major is) you never get out what you put into a system. You'll have loss in heat (mainly) and resistance (or impedance but ignore this too technical). Therefore the rating is the percentage you get out based on the load. Here is a table of efficiency per loads http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/80_Plus . Furthermore, there are brands and models that are known for their efficiency and reliability. This should never be overlooked considering a PSU really limits everything. I usually refer people to this link. http://www.eggxpert.com/forums/thread/323050.aspx

As for getting the heatsink after the CPU. I think this is a poor choice because installing a heatsink is a tedious task (really need 3 or 4 hands imo). Why do it twice? Even if you don't overclock your CPU will run cooler with the aftermarket heatsink anyways. Installing the CPU itself is easy.

Now that I understand where you are coming from, don't worry about the $500 new build. I think you have it right by learning with upgrades intern building a power house later.

Kisianik, very god guide.
 
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Barto said:
I usually refer people to this link. http://www.eggxpert.com/forums/thread/323050.aspx
Click to expand...
This is good to know, but it is old, very old, is there any newer lists like this?
To OP, if you want to keep original case, overclock is not advised, due to very airtight case, some users tried and overheated, in original case you can use only 92 mm cooler, very efficient without overclocking, but. So, if you are planning to build very good PC in the future, I would recommend to choose larger case now, insert Inspiron 570 MOBO in, in this case, in the future you just change MOBO, RAM and CPU, everything else can stay, saving money - that is why in reality you will loose only about $200, not $500 as you prepared to do so!
 
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Check the bottom of the post. It was updated yesterday. Though the thread is old, it is updated every few months. I think the last update was December 2012 which is fine considering the rate that new PSUs are manufactured.
 
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I meant the whole list was not updated, I can see one at the time additions, but no additions to the original list, unless I am missing something.
 
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If you are talking about what was added or removed, that you are correct isn't displayed. They simply have current market PSUs and their "rank." I would assume that once a product is no longer manufactured, it will be removed from the list.
 
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Inspiron 570 shopping list, upgrading in the original case, so no overclock advised, if you try and burn your processor, well sorry you have been warned!
Processor. Phenom II X4 965 BE, get it without fan, you need only CPU, $80.99 http://www.amazon.com/AMD-HDZ965FBK4DGM-Phenom-Edition-3400MHz/dp/B008J49KX2/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1366390024&sr=8-7&keywords=AMD+Phenom+II+X4+965+Black+Edition
Phenom 965 steppings, in case if you decide to save money and buy on eBay, look for those model numbers
- HDZ965FBGMBOX = revision C3 retail (aka "box version")
- HDZ965FBK4DGM = revision C3 OEM (just the CPU in it's clear plastic case - no heatsink, no box)
(C3's tend to overclock the best and if you're buying an after-market heatsink there's no reason to pay extra for the stock one.)

CPU cooler, Ice Edge 400 XT, $30.80 http://www.amazon.com/Logysis-Computer-Bearing-Cooler-MC4004IEXT/dp/B0040V5438/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1358019015&sr=8-6&keywords=deepcool
This one mounts on motherboard using supplied screws, literature is in my GUIDE.

Memory. This is installed on mine Inspiron, Corsair Vengeance CML8GX3M2A1333C9, $64.99 http://www.frys.com/product/6906857 I just purchased it locally, I tried to find it online elsewhere, but could not, other Corsair and Crucial memory would work for sure, just stay with 9-9-9-24 timing, faster ones have problems with Dell in general

Power supply. I choose Corsair, but there are many more good choices. Mine, GS600, $69.99 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139045, however cable management in original case is very difficult, so I think CX600M (modular) would be better choice, $79.99 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139048

Fans.
Inspiron considered cheap model and as such doesn't have software fan control, meaning that BIOS and motherboard are controlling fan speeds, no matter what program I tried, I could not increase fan speeds, even when CPU was overheating. This is part where I am guessing: original CPUs are very low wattage and low heat producers, so BIOS and MOBO adjusted to for those parameters, when we place 965 in, it requires more power and produces more heat, however motherboard doesn't know this and cotinue to operate as if it is still low heat producing CPU (for an example Athlon II x2 250, was running max temperature around 30-35C)
This is my way, simple, cheap, but can be noisy - you basically place fan to run at maximum speed at all times, you can do this by bypassing MOBO speed control (PWM) by using one of two choices: 3/4 pin fans where 3 pin goes to motherboard and 4 pin Molex to the power supply, so fan receives full power and runs at 100%, and the second choice is only for CPU fan which attaches to the motherboard using 4 pin (looks like 3 pin) connector, in this case you are using 3 pin fan - missing wire is speed control - you fan is running at 100%.
First, two 3 pin fans which could be great substitute to IceEdge fan if it runs to slow and CPU gets hot (ICEEDGE fans seems to have 4 pin connector, which will be mobo controlled). Rexus TopMotor DF129225BM (remember you need 2 of them for CPU cooler tower, push and pull), $8.99 x2 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835705039
Next is the exhaust fan, in this case you MUST use 3/4 pin (2 pins) fan, because 3 pin attached to MOBO and MOBO thinks that it is controlled, but the 4 pin Molex get attached to power supply and thus fan runs at 100% bypassing MOBO speed control. I could not find anything better than this one (in my opinion), CityNet CFS-92-SB 92MM Case Fan, $6.99 http://www.amazon.com/CityNet-CFS-92-SB-92MM-Case-Fan/dp/B00757E0B6/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1358354267&sr=1-3&keywords=CityNet+92mm

You will need something like this for CPU pull fan (power) - you are going to attach 4 pin molex to 3 pin fan connector using this Link Depot Model POW-ADT-3P4 3-Pin to 4-Pin PC Power Adapter Cable or similar, $3.99 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812189119&Tpk=POW-ADT-3P4&IsVirtualParent=1

12-189-119-05.jpg


Connector on the right going to power supply, and connector to the left to the fan connector!

Finally you need thermal paste, Arctic Silver 5 is most recommended, $8.23 http://www.amazon.com/Arctic-Silver-Polysynthetic-Thermal-Compound/dp/B0002VFXFE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1358019328&sr=8-1&keywords=arctic+silver+5
This could be handy, but it is up to you, ArctiClean 60ml Kit $6.62 http://www.amazon.com/ArctiClean-60ml-Kit-30ml/dp/B0007TOR08/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1358019328&sr=8-14&keywords=arctic+silver+5
Or you can get this package, combining both above products for less - Arctic Silver 5 Thermal Compound 3.5 Grams with ArctiClean 60 ML Kit, $10.11 http://www.amazon.com/Arctic-Silver-Thermal-Compound-ArctiClean/dp/B001FVI91U/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1358019328&sr=8-2&keywords=arctic+silver+5
And here are the instructions on how to use Arctic Silver products http://www.arcticsilver.com/

This is about it.
If you think about overclocking it, I would recommend to stop your purchasing while it is not too late - you will need larger case for better ventilation, this case can be used later for new builds. Also, this case will, most likely require larger fans and you would have to use larger CPU cooler.
So, if you go original case first and later decide to do overclocking, you would have to throw all those parts in garbage and start all over again - waste of money.

So, proceed with purchasing only if you sure if you not going to overclock!
Good luck.
 
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Ok, so no overclocking without a new case. Now remember that this is my first time doing anything more than plugging in RAM into a MOBO. You have a very good guide but its overwhelming and I'm afraid of ruining something. I'm willing to give it a shot, from the videos I've seen about heatsink/processor replacement it would be easier to do with the MOBO out anyway. But the HDD installement, wiring, etc...

I guess I have to learn at some point, I just dont want to be out of a machine because I ruin something....And then, if I'm replacing RAM, PSU, GPU, CPU and case... Why not replace MOBO and build something new?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139016

That's the PSU I'm looking at. It's bigger than 500-600 but the GPU is recommended for 500W and the CPU is 125W I think. Plus it's modular which might help in the tiny 570 case.

So now the question turns into... is this build worth doing without OC? When you say "Don't OC in this case" do you mean no OC at all or just not to 4.0+? And if I OC and have to change cases.... why not build something new? I feel like I may be biting off more than I can chew...

 
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Personally, I started overclocking in new case, there is possibility to have 3.6-3.7 in the original case, I hope you would not want to test you results with Prime95 or similar - I tested my overclock with the most severe programs, so I tried, actually, to overheat my Inspiron, in you case 3.6 should fine for sure in the original case. Not to overclock to 4GZ and above, and not to use drastic testing - this what I meant by NOT OVERCLOCKING IN ORIGINAL CASE.
On iPhone now....
 
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MOBO-
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128564
Or so many others around the 50$ range.

Case - I really like the look of NZXT cases
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811146083


So 100$ extra. With new Heatsink/compound/case/mobo I'm around $630-$650 (and thats all NewEgg, Kisianik is finding lower prices on Amazon it seems.) Then I guess I just scavenge my HDD and DVD drive from the 570 and I'm good right? Any opinions on this? A HUGE THING is the learning experience. Of course I want the thing to run well, and demolish Guild Wars 2... but then I could give this to the old man to play Elder Scrolls and it will be overclocked and should be alright.

IF this is the better route... any advice on choosing between these lower budget AM3+ MOBOs?
 
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Case- NZXT Source 220
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811146083

MOBO- GIGABYTE GA-970A-UD3
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128519

PSU- Corsair 650TX
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139005

RAM- G.SKILL Sniper Series 8GB (2 x 4GB)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231460

CPU- AMD Phenom II X4 965 Black Edition
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819103727

GPU- XFX Double D Radeon HD 7850 2GB
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814150609


= $622

This is all I need + a cooler, right? I can scavenge the rest from the 570?
 
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Just measured space for GPU. Height 4 inches or 100 mm under HDD, if HDD moved to the slot closer to DVDROM, height is 5 inches or 130 mm, length to HDD mount is 9.5 inches or 240 mm, maximum length almost to the opposite panel (space left due to power switch) 13-13.5 inches or 340 mm.
According to those numbers, you can fit your GPU only if you move your HDD to the slot closer to DVD (or your HDD can be laready there, don't remember), if you have 2 HDDs, there could be a problem.
Just a reminder, I checked my old case without motherboard and other parts, so numbers are not 100% exact.
 
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