[SOLVED] Intel i7 4770k temperature problems

[sgomez]

Hello!
I have had my intel i7 4770k for about 6 years but I had never checked its temperature. These last few weeks I've been playing Metro Exodus and felt the air coming from the liquid cooling fan very hot, installed Core Temp and turns out that the temperature is above 90°C reaching almost a 100°C, Changed the thermal paste today and nothing changed. Idle temperature is around 45°C. I'm not overclocking but the BIOS AI has everything in auto (the way it comes).

I´ve read about liquid cooling drying out or the pump dying (I bought the liquid cooling alongside the CPU) but the air is coming out hot, so I guess that's no the problem. what could be causing this? how can I fix this?

I have an Asus Z87-k motherboard, corsair H60 liquid cooling and a GTX 970 (don't know if this really matters)

 

[Phaaze88]

Those are terrible idle temps.

Just because 'the air is coming out hot' does not simply rule the AIO out. The pump is either dying, or clogged.
Nothing you can do about it, as AIOs are a maintenance-free solution. They do not have the longevity of air coolers.

6 years was a good run on the H60 - the warranty was good for 5 years anyway. It's time to buy another cooler.

 

[Rodrigodrt]

Likely what as said above, i had a pump failure within 3 months on my H110i GT but now its been 7 years running strong still, perhaps tough luck, but all in all it seems to be pump failure case, but to be sure check it on corsair icue or corsair link software, they will tell the pump rpm, if 0, its dead or for some reason not powered, but likely dead.

 

[sgomez]

Likely what as said above, i had a pump failure within 3 months on my H110i GT but now its been 7 years running strong still, perhaps tough luck, but all in all it seems to be pump failure case, but to be sure check it on corsair icue or corsair link software, they will tell the pump rpm, if 0, its dead or for some reason not powered, but likely dead.

Checked the pump speed and it´s above 4000 rpm. Additionally, I checked the temperature in the BIOS and its around 45°C (My mistake), but it's still going above 90°C (to a 100°C) while gaming.

 

[Phaaze88]

I wouldn't completely trust the software...

Additionally, I checked the temperature in the BIOS and its around 45°C

Too high...

but it's still going above 90°C (to a 100°C) while gaming.

Again, too high.
Replace the cooler, it's that simple.

You can try remounting the cooler + reapplying thermal paste, but I highly doubt the situation would change.

 

[EyyMunchian]

If you have another system lying around test your cooler. It could be a motherboard bios update you are lacking/got installed that's corrupting everything. Sometimes with AIO the liquid itself can be the issue. If not then like the others said your cooler must be replaced.

 

[CompuTronix]

sgomez,

On behalf of Tom's Moderator Team, welcome aboard!

As Phaaze88 has already suggested, your H60 has a flow problem due to a partial blockage, which is typical for such an old AIO. Many AIO's fail well within that time frame, exhibiting similar thermal behaviors as yours, so the only fix is to replace the unit.

Apart from the potential for a coolant leak, there are several problems common to AIO's: Here's some information you should know about AIO's, but pay particular attention to the double red bullets:

• All AIO's will eventually fail. It’s not a question of if; it’s a question of when. Pumps can have component failures in the stator electronics that drive the impeller, which is a moving part that can wear, so those which run 24/7/365 are prone to premature failure. AIO units are notorious for failures due to inferior pump quality, whereas custom loops typically use high-end pumps which have greater longevity.

• Coolant can slowly evaporate over time due to "permeation". However unlikely it may seem, coolant can actually dissipate directly through the walls of the tubing. This can introduce bubbles into the impeller chamber causing "cavitation", whereby coolant flow is impeded or interrupted.

• AIO's are sealed Closed Loop Coolers (CLC), which unlike custom loops, are not designed to be disassembled for the water block and impeller to be flushed, cleaned of bio-contaminants and radiator sediments, then refilled. Even AIO's that have an effective biocide additive gradually accumulate bio-growth over time, which will eventually clog the micro channels in the water block, as well as the cooling tubes in the radiator, thereby reducing flow and thermal efficiency. This is evidenced by Core temperatures that slowly increase by several degrees over periods of several months to a few years.

• Also unlike custom loops, AIO's use dissimilar metals (aluminum radiator / copper water block). This causes galvanic corrosion which produces sediments that accumulate over time, resulting in blockages and flow problems. Even new AIO's may contain radiator sediments due to inadequate flushing after manufacturing. Experienced builders of custom loops will always thoroughly flush brand-new radiators. Flux, solder and metal fragments are typically found in the flush water when it's poured through a strainer.

• • For no apparent reason ... OR ... by simply installing, moving, tipping, handling or otherwise disturbing a NEW OR OLD unit, particles can become dislodged, whereupon the next power-up, the now free-floating particles can circulate into the impeller chamber and constrict or completely stop coolant flow. Since the impeller is magnetically coupled to the stator (no direct shaft), the unit may "appear" that it's running while no actual flow is present. "Hearing" the unit running or "feeling" vibration can be deceiving as it does NOT necessarily indicate flow, nor does Pump RPM in BIOS or various software utilities. Moreover, as fan vibration can "telegraph" throughout the entire AIO unit, it's often mistaken for pump vibration.

• Without an actual in-line sensor, proper flow is difficult to confirm. Under normal operation, even with the CPU at 100% workload, there should be only a minimal temperature differential between the tubes. However, if one tube is hot while the other is cool, or the water block is hot while the radiator is cool, it indicates little to no flow. Surface temperatures can be verified with an infrared (IR) thermometer.

Once again, welcome aboard!

CT

 

[Rodrigodrt]

Checked the pump speed and it´s above 4000 rpm. Additionally, I checked the temperature in the BIOS and its around 45°C (My mistake), but it's still going above 90°C (to a 100°C) while gaming.

4000rpm? doesnt sound right, to my knowledge these pumps works @ around 2000-2400 rpm on high performance mode even..... i could come up with another theory, if the pumpis spinning so fast, maybe its empty, without the resistance from the coolant its sky rocketing in rpm, it could have gone dry instead of pump failure

 

[Zandrex]

Hi, did replacing the cooler make a difference? I am roughly having the same issue. Could anyone help? I posted a thread too.