Is a Windows 10 OEM license international?

McLovinHawaii

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Feb 1, 2014
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Can I use an English Windows 10 OEM key to install a Danish version of Windows 10 or do I need a Danish license? I can get a free OEM license at work but since I work at an English company it's an English license and I prefer to use Windows in my native tongue 😀
 
Solution



Make sure you uncheck the box that says "Use the recommedned optins for this PC" at the bottom on the Select Language, Architecture, and Edition.

Unless you are using Windows 10 Enterprise, just select Windows 10 (All editions execpet enterprise are included) then select Language, and if 32/64

If the PC CAME with windows 10, when you boot off the drive it WILL select what ever version of windows 10 you are running (home/pro) for you. If not make sure you select the version you are running.
1. You can change the language AFAIK during installation.

2. You can simply try the potentially free version. It will be free for 30 days or so. If there is an issue requiring you to register then you can get a new code and type in the key.

No need to reinstall.

3. Not sure if this is useful:
https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/Useterms/Retail/Windows/10/UseTerms_Retail_Windows_10_English.htm

My eyes glazed over and then I went into a light coma trying to read that. It doesn't seem applicable though.

4. Not sure if a VOLUME license has local restrictions.

 
Yes. If the PC came with windows 10 you don't even need the Key. With windows 10 the days of needed a key to reinstall is gone.

Just download the Media Creation Tool Then when it ask for Lauanage, version etc, just download the Danish one that is windows 10 Pro. Then either put it on a thumb drive or DVD and install.

You can also try just Upgrading vs upgradeing another PC and see if it lets you upgrade to the Danish
 
As per above, if it's just the LICENSE then there may be two ways that works.

1. Just the license code (probably a VOLUME license?) so you need to create a DVD or USB install media, or

2. May be distributing physical discs.

*If you need to create the media yourself, likely someone can help you but in more detail it works like THIS:

a) browse to MS site for this: https://www.microsoft.com/en-ca/software-download/windows10

c) download the Media Creation Tool and RUN it (have DVD or 8GB+ USB stick handy)

d) *Make sure it's the correct version of Windows. (W10 64-bit Pro?)
- may need to select "OTHER PC" option as it defaults to version to upgrade machine you are using

e) insert USB or DVD when prompted. Download may take a long time, especially if work connection is slow, so may want to do this at home if connection is faster.

Now, for INSTALLATION:
a) unhook any secondary HDD/SSD to be safe
b) boot to USB/DVD as applicable
- if previous OS then may need to change BOOT ORDER so the USB or DVD is first
- if previous OS then DELETE the partition during first part of install (make sure you don't need any data from it)

c) Select language, country etc during install and finish
d) *Part of install is option to input your e-mail and password. Make sure you have that HANDY. You can always do it later, but I recommend doing it during installation.
e) add programs, including the antivirus your company uses
f) setup FAN CONTROL software if motherboard support site has it (may be under W7 or W8 section). Most or all drivers should be installed by W10 or updates.

For CPU fan, the BIOS usually has some support at least. If NOISE isn't an issue I wouldn't worry too much about it.
g) run CPU diagnostic. for Intel it's here: https://downloadcenter.intel.com/download/19792/Intel-Processor-Diagnostic-Tool

h) probably nothing in the BIOS to change, however BEFORE YOU INSTALL WINDOWS if you have a modern, UEFI motherboard (ask if uncertain) I'd go into the BIOS and disable the compatibility mode. (CSM or Compatibility Support Module). It's for legacy support like some older graphics cards, however if Windows installs then everything is compatible.

With CSM disabled, your system may boot slightly faster and be more secure. Of course, an SSD is the ideal solution for general bootup and "snappiness" so even though it's a work PC if you don't have one I'd consider putting in one yourself.

**You can get a new 120GB SSD for as little as $40!!
http://pcpartpicker.com/product/qf98TW/a-data-internal-hard-drive-asp550ss3120gmc

I didn't think my SSD made that big of a deal, then it died and I had to go back to a hard drive. Even though it only added several seconds to bootup everything just felt more sluggish to boot and use.
 
I used the official tool to put Windows 10 onto a USB stick, no option for Home or Pro though so maybe both are included. I can get the license in a few days so I'll have a go at it then and cross my fingers it will work
 



Make sure you uncheck the box that says "Use the recommedned optins for this PC" at the bottom on the Select Language, Architecture, and Edition.

Unless you are using Windows 10 Enterprise, just select Windows 10 (All editions execpet enterprise are included) then select Language, and if 32/64

If the PC CAME with windows 10, when you boot off the drive it WILL select what ever version of windows 10 you are running (home/pro) for you. If not make sure you select the version you are running.
 
Solution
Hey,
You'll be PROMPTED during installation for the version to install.

I think things changed so it may be W10 Home/Pro 32-bit/64-bit on the same media.

I think if you'd chosen "OTHER PC" you would have had the option to be more specific. I did before, but I don't know if they changed that at all.

Anyway, just make sure the KEY and the installation version match. Like I said, if it's "W10 Pro 64-bit" that's what you have to install.
 


The Media Creation tool downloads ALL but Enterprise version of windows. If it was an OEM PC it will detect and install what ever version came with it. Only when it didn't come with Windows 10 (Has to be an OEM PC as well) will you need to prompt. I work with dells everyday and when I Install windows 10 on one that came with Windows 10 I don't even have to pick. It picks for me.

Also 32/64 bit doesn't matter. A Pro key is a Pro key.
 


Sounds right.
I would not install 32-bit though unless there is a known piece of legacy hardware that requires 32-bit Windows (and works with 32-bit Windows 10).

I would ask around the office as well, since this seems like a question his coworkers can help with. In fact, there's usually an IT guy you need to consult anyway. Usually you can't just do all this on your own.

There may be a requirement for other specific software to be installed. Possibly even a specific version of Anti-Virus software (which the company may have a volume license for as well).
 
Update:

I have the MC tool open right now, and if you choose the "OTHER PC" option which you would choose if you use a version that is NOT the same as the PC you're sitting at.

The options I get are:
1) Windows
2) Windows Home Single Language
3) Windows N

You would choose the default "Windows" which will include Windows 10 Home and Pro.

The second option is:
a) 64-bit
b) 32-bit, or
c) BOTH

Assuming you use 64-bit which is most likely, then I suggest just creating the 64-bit version as BOTH would be a longer download.

Then, when it's time to install Windows 10 you just have to ensure you choose the proper version.

*I don't believe there is an option besides Home or Pro here. When I did the Anniversary Update version a couple months ago it was Home or Pro only.

I'm not sure why an above post claims ENTERPRISE versions are included. Perhaps you need to be creating this from an ENTERPRISE computer? I certainly do not have the option to do it no matter what I choose.

Other:
This is totally off topic, but I still get annoyed when I see "x64" or "x86"; at least they say 32-bit or 64-bit as well.

My dad had a "286" then a "386", but eventually the names changed but a CPU with the same Instruction Set is called "x86" which is pretty much any modern desktop CPU.

Before CPU's where 64-bit which is largely about addressing more memory they were 32-bit. I'm not sure why, but almost everybody started using "x86" and "32-bit" interchangeably. Then, when 64-bit came about they started saying "x86" vs "x64" which makes absolutely no sense.

Technically it's "x86_64" or close to that which means a 64-bit version of the x86 architecture.

(A similar thing happened with "IDE" vs "SATA". Sigh. It's PATA vs SATA, as both are indeed "IDE". IDE means "Integrated Drive Electronics"; that refers to the platter section and electronic, control section being on the same unit. They used to be separate many, many moons ago.)
 
ENTERPRISE:
I just noticed on the main download page, that if you look under "More Download Options" it says THIS:

"Sign in to the Volume Licensing Service Center to download Enterprise editions."

If the current computer is ENTERPRISE then perhaps the tool will detect that and offer an Enterprise download option (if that's what you use).

Sorry for writing a bit too much.
 
Few things.

Enterprise you have to login to download it. That is the only way to get the Enterprise ISO. You can't get it period using the Media Creation Tool.

Also a few things.

IDE and SATA/PATA are NOT the same. IDE simply means a Hard drive with its own Onbaord Controller. So a IDE Device is ANY hard drive with its Own Controller. back in the day hard drives didn't have their own controller. For almost the past twenty years now people have used them interchangeabley because no one used the old tech anymore. So saying a IDE drive was the same as a PATA drive. I don't know anyone who calls a SATA drives a IDE drive when it technically is.

Also for the x86 issue the x86 refers to the x86 instruction set NOT 32 bit. x86 was actually 16 bit made to work with 32 bit. The 8086 CPU which was the first to use it and which even todays CPU's are based off this 30 year old CPU. Where as the 64 bit or AMD64 is a different instruction set on top of the x86 hence sometimes you see x86 and x86-64.