Is corsair 500WATT enough

[Ahmed21]

I have 500WATT for my build is it enough or should i get corsair 600WATT. I'm low on budget.
here the my PC parts:

Intel Boxed Core I5-6600 FC-LGA14C 3.30 Ghz 6 M Processor Cache 4 LGA 1151

Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4 DRAM 3000MHz

Corsair Hydro Series High Performance Liquid CPU Cooler H60

ASUS Z170-A ATX DDR4 Motherboards

EVGA GeForce GTX 960 4GB Super SC ACX 2.0+

Logisys CLK12 12" Cold Cathode Kit with Dual Tube,

 

[damric]

Those components would run fine on a 350W unit. I'd be concerned more with the maximum operating temperature on the Corsair unit since they have some that can only run at 30C before giving problems.

 

[junkeymonkey]

my opinion is get the best you can

any overkill cant hurt you but finding you short changed your self in the power supply does

watts/volts [12] = amps [your cpu is a 65w so 65w devided by 12 volts = 5.41 amps ] so do your total system max poewer draw amps add that up and get what you may need from a psu at its 12v+ rail

don't forget to add amps to overhead for overclocking for more powerful parts /upgrades

 

[sizzling]

Which exact model Corsair is it? They do both good and crap ones

 

[Ahmed21]

Which exact model Corsair is it? They do both good and crap ones

its Corsair CX Series, CX500M, 500 Watt (500W), Semi Modular Power Supply, 80+ Bronze Certified

 

[turkey3_scratch]

my opinion is get the best you can

any overkill cant hurt you but finding you short changed your self in the power supply does

watts/volts [12] = amps [your cpu is a 65w so 65w devided by 12 volts = 5.41 amps ] so do your total system max poewer draw amps add that up and get what you may need from a psu at its 12v+ rail

don't forget to add amps to overhead for overclocking for more powerful parts /upgrades

You have other things to take into consideration, though. The OCP trigger point for the 12V rail is higher than rated amperage, and in general, 12V amperage ratings are meaningless values. Many power supplies will fail before current is as fast as the rated amperage. Many can endure much faster current on those 12V wires before even being close to encountering any troubles.

You also have to take into account transient spikes, or not take into account them. And most importantly, just the quality of the PSU itself. Or if it is a multirail unit, rail distribution also plays a role.

 

[Ahmed21]

my opinion is get the best you can

any overkill cant hurt you but finding you short changed your self in the power supply does

watts/volts [12] = amps [your cpu is a 65w so 65w devided by 12 volts = 5.41 amps ] so do your total system max poewer draw amps add that up and get what you may need from a psu at its 12v+ rail

don't forget to add amps to overhead for overclocking for more powerful parts /upgrades

Im not going to do any overclock to it the problem is that im low on budget can i at least keep the 500 for now and till i but better one?

 

[turkey3_scratch]

Yes you can keep your Corsair CX for now. It if a sufficient unit.

 

[Ahmed21]

my opinion is get the best you can

any overkill cant hurt you but finding you short changed your self in the power supply does

watts/volts [12] = amps [your cpu is a 65w so 65w devided by 12 volts = 5.41 amps ] so do your total system max poewer draw amps add that up and get what you may need from a psu at its 12v+ rail

don't forget to add amps to overhead for overclocking for more powerful parts /upgrades

You have other things to take into consideration, though. The OCP trigger point for the 12V rail is higher than rated amperage, and in general, 12V amperage ratings are meaningless values. Many power supplies will fail before current is as fast as the rated amperage. Many can endure much faster current on those 12V wires before even being close to encountering any troubles.

You also have to take into account transient spikes, or not take into account them. And most importantly, just the quality of the PSU itself. Or if it is a multirail unit, rail distribution also plays a role.

Mine its Corsair CX Series, CX500M, 500 Watt (500W), Semi Modular Power Supply, 80+ Bronze Certified The problem im low on budget what i want to do is keep the 500 for now and buy better one when i can.

 

[Ahmed21]

Those components would run fine on a 350W unit. I'd be concerned more with the maximum operating temperature on the Corsair unit since they have some that can only run at 30C before giving problems.

I'm not going to keep it tho i want to keep it unitl i can buy better PSU

 

[Ahmed21]

Yes you can keep your Corsair CX for now. It if a sufficient unit.

Yeah its for now until i can buy better one. so im good to keep it for now?

 

[turkey3_scratch]

Yes you're fine.

 

[junkeymonkey]

a quicky total came up for a 480w ?/ all you can do is what you feel is best for your needs ?? psu is not a part I short change myself on I use formula ''P''

P for plenty, not I hope so

good luck you got to pay to play with the big boys

@turkey
ya, many fail cause you went cheap and under rated [been there - done that]

like that guy that had a 700w that showed on its sticker just 42 amps at the 12v+ then did not understand ''why'' [mis represented 500w psu is what he had ]

same thing with the total watts listed on the psu if it says its a 500w it should have 41 amps not 34 where I most time say a ''true'' 550w psu with full rated amps listed in its specs

+12V@38A,
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139027

38 amps is a 450w


Provides up to 40A / 480W on the +12V rail
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA1N83U90946

these ''small'' units can be misleading and where you need to watch out

 

[turkey3_scratch]

a quicky total came up for a 480w ?/ all you can do is what you feel is best for your needs ?? psu is not a part I short change myself on I use formula ''P''

P for plenty, not I hope so

good luck you got to pay to play with the big boys

Except the labelled wattage of a power supply is a meaningless value. It's a very rare and practically negligible context in which a power supply actually hits a peak on the power of its energy outputs. Long before that peak is ever reached, the following would happen:

1) protections kick in.
2) voltage so unstable, a more serious issue.
3) blow up.

Labelled wattage does not equal the OPP trigger point. Nor does rated amperage mean the OCP trigger point. There is so much more to choosing a power supply than by going just by labelled wattage. That's what gets people in trouble - they end up buying crappy units just because it has a number on the box, and then poor voltage stability and ripple affect the lifespan of their computer. And at times, it causes damage to the computer.

P = V * I only goes so far. V is what is really important. Finding a power supply with good ripple and voltage stability in all kinds of scenarios is a huge thing that requires a lot of research (or just asking on forums).

 

[Ahmed21]

Yes you're fine.

So what should i get when i need to update the PSU 600W or 750W Corsair?

 

[Ahmed21]

a quicky total came up for a 480w ?/ all you can do is what you feel is best for your needs ?? psu is not a part I short change myself on I use formula ''P''

P for plenty, not I hope so

good luck you got to pay to play with the big boys

@turkey
ya, many fail cause you went cheap and under rated [been there - done that]

like that guy that had a 700w that showed on its sticker just 42 amps at the 12v+ then did not understand ''why'' [mis represented 500w psu is what he had ]

same thing with the total watts listed on the psu if it says its a 500w it should have 41 amps not 34 where I most time say a ''true'' 550w psu with full rated amps listed in its specs

+12V@38A,
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139027

38 amps is a 450w


Provides up to 40A / 480W on the +12V rail
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA1N83U90946

these ''small'' units can be misleading and where you need to watch out

But the Psu calculator show that i need 385W And The recommended power supply its 500Wat.

 

[turkey3_scratch]

watt number does not equal quality. The FSP Hydro X 450W would be a much better unit, for example.

Actually that'd be a pretty good option, though I don't think it's quite hit retailers yet. Anyway, something like this is higher quality:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G2 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($86.88 @ SuperBiiz)
Total With 10% Tax: $86.88
Total Without Tax: $78.99
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-05-25 17:45 EDT-0400

 

[turkey3_scratch]

a quicky total came up for a 480w ?/ all you can do is what you feel is best for your needs ?? psu is not a part I short change myself on I use formula ''P''

P for plenty, not I hope so

good luck you got to pay to play with the big boys

@turkey
ya, many fail cause you went cheap and under rated [been there - done that]

like that guy that had a 700w that showed on its sticker just 42 amps at the 12v+ then did not understand ''why'' [mis represented 500w psu is what he had ]

same thing with the total watts listed on the psu if it says its a 500w it should have 41 amps not 34 where I most time say a ''true'' 550w psu with full rated amps listed in its specs

+12V@38A,
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139027

38 amps is a 450w


Provides up to 40A / 480W on the +12V rail
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA1N83U90946

these ''small'' units can be misleading and where you need to watch out

But the Psu calculator show that i need 360W And The recommended power supply its 500Wat.

PSU calculators = stink.

Your system under full throttle is about 220W.

There's not even a dire need to change the PSU at all. I hope you know it's a personal decision to change it, something like an enthusiast like me would do.

 

[junkeymonkey]

bottom line is if you aint got the amps to cover full load use or spikes its not going to matter is its a crap unit or the best in the world its going to crash

if your system decides to pull 45 amps and you got 38 your done I cant help on what he feel is a solid or crap unit he still could get the best in the world and it fails

he wanted to know if his unit covered his systems needs not whats the best unit for 30 bucks that may

65w chip 6 amps

960 220w [75w slot- 150 8 pin] 19 amps

say 10 amps for the rest that's 35 amps

his psu = +12V@38A,

that's cutting it close with no mistakes I would prefer a 10 amp buffer on top of that

that's just my opinion and how I can only see it as far as that part goes

good luck

 

[Ahmed21]

a quicky total came up for a 480w ?/ all you can do is what you feel is best for your needs ?? psu is not a part I short change myself on I use formula ''P''

P for plenty, not I hope so

good luck you got to pay to play with the big boys

@turkey
ya, many fail cause you went cheap and under rated [been there - done that]

like that guy that had a 700w that showed on its sticker just 42 amps at the 12v+ then did not understand ''why'' [mis represented 500w psu is what he had ]

same thing with the total watts listed on the psu if it says its a 500w it should have 41 amps not 34 where I most time say a ''true'' 550w psu with full rated amps listed in its specs

+12V@38A,
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139027

38 amps is a 450w


Provides up to 40A / 480W on the +12V rail
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA1N83U90946

these ''small'' units can be misleading and where you need to watch out

But the Psu calculator show that i need 360W And The recommended power supply its 500Wat.

PSU calculators = stink.

Your system under full throttle is about 220W.

There's not even a dire need to change the PSU at all. I hope you know it's a personal decision to change it, something like an enthusiast like me would do.

Thank you so much i will change it only if i'm going to upgrade my parts to higher components thank you again.

 

[junkeymonkey]

65w chip 6 amps

960 220w [75w slot- 150 8 pin] 19 amps

say 10 amps for the rest that's 35 amps

his psu = +12V@38A,

that's cutting it close with no mistakes I would prefer a 10 amp buffer on top of that

that's just my opinion and how I can only see it as far as that part goes

 

[Vic 40]

960 220w [75w slot- 150 8 pin] 19 amps

Where do you get that from? On the EVGA site does it give this,

Requirements Minimum of a 400 Watt power supply. Total Power Draw : 160 Watts

And while gaming might it not even get that far.

 

[damric]

CX is the one only rated for 30C, which makes it a disaster for many builds.

 

[Ahmed21]

a quicky total came up for a 480w ?/ all you can do is what you feel is best for your needs ?? psu is not a part I short change myself on I use formula ''P''

P for plenty, not I hope so

good luck you got to pay to play with the big boys

@turkey
ya, many fail cause you went cheap and under rated [been there - done that]

like that guy that had a 700w that showed on its sticker just 42 amps at the 12v+ then did not understand ''why'' [mis represented 500w psu is what he had ]

same thing with the total watts listed on the psu if it says its a 500w it should have 41 amps not 34 where I most time say a ''true'' 550w psu with full rated amps listed in its specs

+12V@38A,
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139027

38 amps is a 450w


Provides up to 40A / 480W on the +12V rail
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA1N83U90946

these ''small'' units can be misleading and where you need to watch out

Ok fine lets say i want to upgrade the psu should i get 600Watt?

 

[Ahmed21]

a quicky total came up for a 480w ?/ all you can do is what you feel is best for your needs ?? psu is not a part I short change myself on I use formula ''P''

P for plenty, not I hope so

good luck you got to pay to play with the big boys

@turkey
ya, many fail cause you went cheap and under rated [been there - done that]

like that guy that had a 700w that showed on its sticker just 42 amps at the 12v+ then did not understand ''why'' [mis represented 500w psu is what he had ]

same thing with the total watts listed on the psu if it says its a 500w it should have 41 amps not 34 where I most time say a ''true'' 550w psu with full rated amps listed in its specs

+12V@38A,
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139027

38 amps is a 450w


Provides up to 40A / 480W on the +12V rail
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA1N83U90946

these ''small'' units can be misleading and where you need to watch out

Ok fine lets say i want to upgrade the psu should i get 600Watt?