Question Is it possible to get risers with a longer thread?

[Massacher]

I want to be able to further secure them from the other side with washers and nuts.
I've done a quick search but it seems there aren't any with longer threads.

 

[Ralston18]

Much more information needed.

Update your post to include full system hardware specs and OS information.

= = = =

What is the reason for "I want to be able to further secure them from the other side with washers and nuts."?

More simply put: why? What is the requirement driving the need to do so?

Are you able to take some photographs showing the posted issue?

If so, then do so and post the photographs here via imgur (www.imgur.com).

Overall, the need for more washers and nuts may be unnecessary......

 

[drea.drechsler]

I want to be able to further secure them from the other side with washers and nuts.
I've done a quick search but it seems there aren't any with longer threads.

Yes, standoffs (they are more commonly called that) come with a wide range of threaded lengths so you could do that but it's not usually necessary. Are the threads in the motherboard tray damaged so that the standoffs won't thread in? You could also get a stand-off with a slightly larger thread than what you have and it may work (if you have M2, for instance, try an M3 standoff instead) but also get a matching attaching screw too.

You'll have to go to a hardware store to find them though. You'll have to know the thread size you're interested in (it could be either metric such as M3 or standard like 6-32 or 4-40). Amazon sells assortment kits in case you're not sure exactly what you need. Get compatible nuts, of course.

The one thing you must make sure of is the standoff height is the same as what you have or you'll stress the motherboard and/or the I/O panel fit correctly.

 

[Massacher]

Much more information needed.

Update your post to include full system hardware specs and OS information.

= = = =

What is the reason for "I want to be able to further secure them from the other side with washers and nuts."?

More simply put: why? What is the requirement driving the need to do so?

Are you able to take some photographs showing the posted issue?

If so, then do so and post the photographs here via imgur (www.imgur.com).

Overall, the need for more washers and nuts may be unnecessary......

See my thread here https://forums.tomshardware.com/thr...y-turn-with-the-screws.3822399/#post-23111861

I put the risers from my old case into my new case. I used needle nose pliers to screw them in tight. But I'm able to unscrew some of them by hand without tools so I think some of the holes have damaged threads.

The reason I want to further secure them with nuts and washers is so that they don't turn with the screws when I take them out in the future for my next upgrade.

These are my specs

Ryzen 7 5800X3D 3.4GHz - 4.5GHz
Asus ROG Strix X570-E Gaming
Kingston Fury Beast 32GB DDR4
Gigabyte Radeon RX 7900 XTX Gaming OC 24G
SupremeFX 8-Channel High Definition Audio
Logitech Z-5500 Digital
Stadium USBPRO
Coolermaster Tempest GP27Q (1ms)
AOC Agon AG271QX 144Hz (1ms)
Samsung 970 EVO Plus NVMe M.2 SSD 500GB
Samsung 970 EVO NVMe M.2 SSD 1TB
Samsung 840 ProSeries SSD 256GB
WD Black SATA 1TB
WD Black SATA 1TB
WD Green SATA 1TB
Pioneer 206BK Blu ray burner
LG SATA 18x DVDRW
Corsair RM 750x 750Watt PSU
Noctua NH-U12A
Cooler Master CM 590 III
Razer Goliathus Control Mouse Pad
Cyborg R.A.T. 8+
ADATA XPG Summoner RGB - Cherry Silver
Win10 x64

 

[BFG-9000]

If the threads in the motherboard tray are still good, then just use Red threadlocker such as Loctite. With such small screws they will simply snap before unscrewing, unless you first apply heat (tip of soldering iron) or chlorinated brake cleaner to weaken the bond. If it's already assembled, then a 1/2 drop of wicking-type Green on each should be good enough to not unscrew unless you really want them to.

If the threads are really messed up, then the usual solution is to drill the hole large enough to snap-in those nylon plastic standoffs which are both screwless on top and unthreaded on the bottom

though this is probably not ideal for use with heavy GPUs unless it's just one or two. Be aware these also are available in versions that stick onto a flat surface as well as ones with a nylon threaded post on the bottom.

I have seen standoffs with longer threads intended for aluminum cases, not for putting nuts on the back, but I guess you could use them that way. Simply glue the nuts to the back of the tray since even if if they ever break loose and spin, you could reach them easily anyway. However if you can still actually screw your old standoffs in, give the Loctite a try first as it may do the job and is easiest.

 

[Massacher]

If the threads in the motherboard tray are still good, then just use Red threadlocker such as Loctite. With such small screws they will simply snap before unscrewing, unless you first apply heat (tip of soldering iron) or chlorinated brake cleaner to weaken the bond. If it's already assembled, then a 1/2 drop of wicking-type Green on each should be good enough to not unscrew unless you really want them to.

If the threads are really messed up, then the usual solution is to drill the hole large enough to snap-in those nylon plastic standoffs which are both screwless on top and unthreaded on the bottom

though this is probably not ideal for use with heavy GPUs unless it's just one or two. Be aware these also are available in versions that stick onto a flat surface as well as ones with a nylon threaded post on the bottom.

I have seen standoffs with longer threads intended for aluminum cases, not for putting nuts on the back, but I guess you could use them that way. Simply glue the nuts to the back of the tray since even if if they ever break loose and spin, you could reach them easily anyway. However if you can still actually screw your old standoffs in, give the Loctite a try first as it may do the job and is easiest.

What is Loctite? I've never heard of it.

Yes I can still screw them in. I'm just worried in the future if I want to remove my motherboard that they'll spin with the screws again. Securing them with nuts and washers will negate that from happening.


I remember those plastic stand offs. They were a pain in the ass. I'm not going back to plastic!

You'll have to know the thread size you're interested in (it could be either metric such as M3 or standard like 6-32 or 4-40). Amazon sells assortment kits in case you're not sure exactly what you need. Get compatible nuts, of course.

Those are long on the riser part. I want the thread to be longer. The part that sticks out the other side. Not the part the motherboard sits on.

 

[BFG-9000]

It's a German brand of anaerobic threadlocker. Here are some other brands. The secret to their use is they won't properly cure unless oxygen is excluded (the bottle is actually permeable to oxygen) and in contact with ferrous or brass metal.

It's a methacrylate so somewhat related to super glue, but a type more used in dentistry or rearview mirror adhesives. If you don't care about ever taking it back apart you could actually use super glue but would have to work quickly.

 

[Misgar]

If you've ever wondered why the ends of small screws in laptops are stained blue or red, that's probably Loctite (or equivalent) thread locker.

For computer stand offs, I'd use medium strength Loctite 343
.

For small laptop screws, use Low Strength Loctite 222, otherwise you won't be able to remove the screws at a later date.

Needle (round) nose pliers will slip when trying to tighten standoffs. I use an old 6BA or 5mm nut spinner instead. Take care not to overtighten or you'll strip the threads in thin sheet metal chassis.

Something like this might be suitable in a chassis with stripped holes, with an M3 nut on the end.
https://www.amazon.com/Aexit-Fasteners-Threaded-Hexagonal-Standoff/dp/B07HSTX4S8/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1ANJXJJLDKHRR&keywords=tapped+threaded+pillar+m3x6&qid=1697094182&sprefix=tapped+threaded+pillar+m3x6,aps,142&sr=8-1

 

[drea.drechsler]

See my thread here https://forums.tomshardware.com/thr...y-turn-with-the-screws.3822399/#post-23111861

I put the risers from my old case into my new case. I used needle nose pliers to screw them in tight. But I'm able to unscrew some of them by hand without tools so I think some of the holes have damaged threads.

The reason I want to further secure them with nuts and washers is so that they don't turn with the screws when I take them out in the future for my next upgrade.
...

Why are you using standoffs (risers) from another case? That can raise a whole new mess of problems you have to watch out for.

Standoffs are selected for a case based on the gap between the motherboard tray and the plane the motherboard must sit in to put the I/O panel at the correct height for the case. There is no standard for what that gap should be so the standoff height might be different between two cases. I've even had some cases with dimples in the tray at some of the mounting positions so I had different standoffs for those positions.

You must be sure to use the correct thread pitch screws for mounting the motherboard, don't cross thread them and you'll be fine. It's a very common error to get the wrong screw since hardware kits for cases usually include both metric and standard threaded screws. Get the wrong one and you have the problems like you had originally, where the screw won't come out and spins out the stand-off.

But if it does spin out the stand off instead of removing the screw it doesn't matter since you can always unscrew the standoff from the board after.

If you're paranoid you can use loc-tite, but it's overkill in the extreme since that's intended for fasteners subject to extreme heat and vibration conditions such as that inside an automotive engine. And one other thing is it's also not really fixing the problem since if you can't tighten the standoff sufficiently it's not going to make reliable electrical ground, a primary function for it. So if you have stability problems after it's built you'll never be sure it's not because of this. I would really call it a Bad Idea UNLESS you can tighten the standoffs fully first. But if you can then it's not needed anyway so why even use it?

And lastly, if using standoffs not intended for the case they could very likely have the wrong threads for the holes the case provides. Needle nose pliers isn't the proper tool and can't make them very tight. So even those you think are tight might not be if you used the proper tool. In short: get the proper standoff, tighten them with the proper tool (a properly sized nut driver or socket is best) and don't try to glue them in with loc-tite. If they should spin out upon disassembly, it simply doesn't matter.