Question Is my CPU broken?

Apr 3, 2020
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My PSU had a power surge or short-circuited because it fried my motherboard and PSU. I recently bought these parts and swapped out the defected ones for new ones but it doesn't boot. It turns on for half a second then turns off. The Mobo lights turn on and the orange LED turns on which means that all the parts are powered up. None of the critical part LEDs are on. I then swapped out the ram but it still doesn't work (tried other DIMM slots). My CPU and CPU socket has no broken pins and I trouble shooted HDD, GPU. I have no idea what's wrong with my PC. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

Parts:
PCPartPicker part List: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/ty64wh

CPU: Intel Core i7-7700K 4.2 GHz Quad-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: CRYORIG H5 Universal 65 CFM CPU Cooler ($63.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Asus STRIX Z270F Gaming ATX LGA1151 Motherboard
Memory: G.Skill Trident Z RGB 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 Memory
Storage: Toshiba 2 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 8 GB Superclocked Gaming ACX 3.0 Video Card
Case: NZXT S340 Elite ATX Mid Tower Case
Power Supply: be quiet! System Power 9 CM 700 W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($109.99 @ B&H)
Case Fan: Corsair Air Series SP120 High Performance Edition (2-Pack) 62.74 CFM 120 mm Fans
Monitor: Acer GN246HL 24.0" 1920x1080 144 Hz Monitor ($211.99 @ B&H)
Keyboard: Razer BlackWidow X Tournament Edition Chroma Wired Gaming Keyboard
Total: $385.97
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-04-19 12:28 EDT-0400
 
Apr 3, 2020
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I just recently bought the beQuiet PSU and it works fine. I had hydro g 650 watt 80+ gold before that. The hydro G was the one that blew up. I first built the PC in October 2017 and it stopped working October 2019
 
I just recently bought the beQuiet PSU and it works fine. I had hydro g 650 watt 80+ gold before that. The hydro G was the one that blew up. I first built the PC in October 2017 and it stopped working October 2019
The Hydro G should still protect your PC from damage. It has Over/Under-voltage protection, Over-current protection and Over-temperature protection built in.
 
Apr 3, 2020
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Have you tried booting with 1 stick of RAM in slot DIMM_A2 and no drives connected to see if you can get into the BIOS?
What do the small Q-LEDs (just above the 24-pin power connector) show when you boot?
Can't get into BIOS with a stick of RAM in DIMM_A2. There is only one LED that lights up. It's the orange PWR_LED. I'm going to try to rebuild the PC outside of the case again to see if it works.
 
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Apr 3, 2020
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Can't get into BIOS with a stick of RAM in DIMM_A2. There is only one LED that lights up. It's the orange PWR_LED. I'm going to try to rebuild the PC outside of the case again to see if it works.
Rebuilt the PC outside of the case and the same problem persists. Troubleshooted everything GPU, HDD, RAM, and the common denominator is the CPU. I don't have a spare CPU around so I can't test it but now I'm fairly confident the CPU is broken :(
 
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Yep checked the CPU and the CPU socket and none look bent
Are you confident your CPU cooler is mounted properly?
Have you double checked all the power cables from your PSU to the motherboard, at both ends?

The post below is a checklist you can read for ideas on what might prevent your PC from booting.
 
Apr 3, 2020
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Confident that the CPU Cooler is mounted properly and all the cables are in and tight. I will go through the troubleshooting checklist tomorrow because it's quite late right now and see how it goes.
 
Went through the troubleshooting list and tried everything but PC still won't boot
If you have the motherboard outside the case, cleared the CMOS, installed just 1 stick of RAM in slot DIMM_A2 (trying both sticks), with no drives connected, using the onboard graphics and it still will not boot, you are at a dead end with nothing else to try.

If the problem were just a broken CPU, the red CPU Q-LED indicator light on your motherboard should stay ON. If no Q-LEDs turn on at all, your motherboard is not operating as it should. At this point i think you should contact Asus customer support on their website for further help. All Asus motherboards have a 3 year warranty so they will either offer to replace your motherboard or find a solution for your problem.

https://www.asus.com/us/support/FAQ/1042632
 
Apr 3, 2020
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If you have the motherboard outside the case, cleared the CMOS, installed just 1 stick of RAM in slot DIMM_A2 (trying both sticks), with no drives connected, using the onboard graphics and it still will not boot, you are at a dead end with nothing else to try.

If the problem were just a broken CPU, the red CPU Q-LED indicator light on your motherboard should stay ON. If no Q-LEDs turn on at all, your motherboard is not operating as it should. At this point i think you should contact Asus customer support on their website for further help. All Asus motherboards have a 3 year warranty so they will either offer to replace your motherboard or find a solution for your problem.

https://www.asus.com/us/support/FAQ/1042632
Alright, I'll make sure to send them an email, thanks for the help
 
Apr 3, 2020
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My PC turns on then immediately off. My PC won't post so the Q-LEDs won't turn on, therefore, I can't identify if the problem is the CPU. I have tried everything. Currently, my PC is outside of the case with one stick of RAM in DIMM_A2, no drives connected, using onboard graphics. I tried using different RAM, motherboard, PSU, still the same problem. I've checked the pins on the CPU and the socket and they look good. I tried clearing CMOS multiple times still nothing. What more can I do?
Specs:
CPU: Intel Core i7-7700K 4.2 GHz Quad-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: CRYORIG H5 Universal 65 CFM CPU Cooler ($63.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Asus STRIX Z270F Gaming ATX LGA1151 Motherboard
Memory: G.Skill Trident Z RGB 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 Memory
Storage: Toshiba 2 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 8 GB Superclocked Gaming ACX 3.0 Video Card
Case: NZXT S340 Elite ATX Mid Tower Case
Power Supply: be quiet! System Power 9 CM 700 W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($109.99 @ B&H)
Case Fan: Corsair Air Series SP120 High Performance Edition (2-Pack) 62.74 CFM 120 mm Fans
 
My PC turns on then immediately off. My PC won't post so the Q-LEDs won't turn on...
So are 'Q-LED's' troubleshooting LED's? One for VGA, RAM, CPU, usually. They HAVE to turn on to do their job as they light up at the point it fails in POST. So if they aren't even turning on then PSU is a likely suspect, or it turns on and fails off so fast because of a dead short on motherboard.

Remove CPU, memory and VGA to see if it will stay on with the LED's lit at least. If it still turns on then off without lighting the LED's then it's either a fault in the mobo or the PSU. Then try the paper clip test with PSU to see if it will power up and stay powered up with nothing connected at all (actually, do that right off the bat). If it doesn't then the fault's in the PSU...if it does then it COULD be in the mobo, but it doesn't rule out the PSU as maybe it just can't hold any sort of load.

If it does stay on with LED's lit then try pluggin in one part at a time: first CPU, then memory, then GPU. The point it starts failing off bingo, you found it. Either that or the PSU can't hold any sort of load LOL.

A known-good spare PSU with effective SCP is really handy right about now.
 
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Apr 3, 2020
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So are 'Q-LED's' troubleshooting LED's? One for VGA, RAM, CPU, usually. They HAVE to turn on to do their job as they light up at the point it fails in POST. So if they aren't even turning on then PSU is a likely suspect, or it turns on and fails off so fast because of a dead short on motherboard.

Remove CPU, memory and VGA to see if it will stay on with the LED's lit at least. If it still turns on then off without lighting the LED's then it's either a fault in the mobo or the PSU. Then try the paper clip test with PSU to see if it will power up and stay powered up with nothing connected at all (actually, do that right off the bat). If it doesn't then the fault's in the PSU...if it does then it COULD be in the mobo, but it doesn't rule out the PSU as maybe it just can't hold any sort of load.

If it does stay on with LED's lit then try pluggin in one part at a time: first CPU, then memory, then GPU. The point it starts failing off bingo, you found it. Either that or the PSU can't hold any sort of load LOL.

A known-good spare PSU with effective SCP is really handy right about now.
The motherboard and power supply are brand new and I bought them a week or 2 ago. The paperclip test works, and my power supply does stay on. I checked the beQuiet website and my power supply does support SCP. The Q-LEDs as in the troubleshooting LEDS exactly. The thing about the LEDs is that my mobo manual says that they are POST State LEDs and will light up during POST but I can't get my PC to POST so the LEDs dont' light up.
 
The motherboard and power supply are brand new and I bought them a week or 2 ago. The paperclip test works, and my power supply does stay on. The Q-LEDs as in the troubleshooting LEDS exactly. The thing about the LEDs is that my mobo manual says that they are POST State LEDs and will light up during POST but I can't get my PC to POST so the LEDs dont' light up.
Brand new is when you find infant mortalities... that's a DOA in common parlance. At least you know the PSU will start up.

So like I said, take everything out...cpu, gpu and memory. even detach all cables you can including SATA drives and take out NVME. The PSU should start up and stay up with the LED's all lit since it didn't even find a CPU. If it doesn't and since the PSU has passed paperclip the more likely candidate now is motherboard.

That's probably the simplest kind of troubleshooting with nothing else to work with. It could be something else, but you need a known-good system to do swaps with.

Why do you suspect the CPU though?
 
Apr 3, 2020
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Brand new is when you find infant mortalities... that's a DOA in common parlance. At least you know the PSU will start up.

So like I said, take everything out...cpu, gpu and memory. even detach all cables you can including SATA drives and take out NVME. The PSU should start up and stay up with the LED's all lit since it didn't even find a CPU. If it doesn't and since the PSU has passed paperclip the more likely candidate now is motherboard.

That's probably the simplest kind of troubleshooting with nothing else to work with. It could be something else, but you need a known-good system to do swaps with.

Why do you suspect the CPU though?
I'll be sure to try everything.
I suspect the CPU because I bought a new motherboard, a new PSU, and new RAM and the PC still wouldn't boot. My old MOBO and PSU were dead and I needed new RAM because mine was getting outdated and dying. I took out the GPU and the problem still persisted and the only common denominator was the CPU.
 

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