[SOLVED] Is this a good build for around $1000.

Solution
You can definitely improve that build by 'trimming some of the fat', and there's a fair bit of it in that build.
Focus on the meat(performance) first, then add the fat/flavor later.
1)Ram: can trim ~20USD with Crucial Ballistix or Adata Spectrix(if you really can't help the LEDs).
2)Chassis: can trim ~20 with the non-i model. The premium for that crappy Smart Device that's included isn't worth it.
3)Psu: that's an expensive psu:
-it's fully modular, which is a plus
-white, which is useless; the psu shroud hides it anyway
-has an LED fan. LED fans are always worse than their non-LED counterparts, and most users turn their psu's fan down so it's isolated from the rest of the system. Turn it fan up, and now the gpu has to share air with...
I would recommend a gigabyte Windforce over the ventus, those have much better temps usually but that's no biggie. Why do you want an RGB PSU when you can't even see the RGB? Get a CX650 non M non F and save money, or buy a Seasonic focus gold

Pick anything Tier B or above

No need for those extra fans with that overpriced case either, it looks good but $86 is not worth it. Go for a Lancool 2 Mesh or a P400A Digital instead, 3 included ARGB fans and better airflow.

Also if you're not gonna OC, and not gonna run PCIe 4 SSDs, you don't need a $150 mobo. You can get an MSI B450M Bazooka Max Wifi. Then you don't even need the adapter. Or the gigabyte B550 Aorus elite AX, I believe the Bazooka has AC wifi (AX is faster).

The keyboard and headset are mostly personal preference really. I would suggest the Corsair K60 RGB SE instead. It doesn't have Cherry MX switches, but it has PBT keycaps instead of the ABS on the steelseries. PBT lasts much longer. My corsair K68 has ABS, I've broken 3 keycaps in 6 months

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/BQjTt8
 
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You can definitely improve that build by 'trimming some of the fat', and there's a fair bit of it in that build.
Focus on the meat(performance) first, then add the fat/flavor later.
1)Ram: can trim ~20USD with Crucial Ballistix or Adata Spectrix(if you really can't help the LEDs).
2)Chassis: can trim ~20 with the non-i model. The premium for that crappy Smart Device that's included isn't worth it.
3)Psu: that's an expensive psu:
-it's fully modular, which is a plus
-white, which is useless; the psu shroud hides it anyway
-has an LED fan. LED fans are always worse than their non-LED counterparts, and most users turn their psu's fan down so it's isolated from the rest of the system. Turn it fan up, and now the gpu has to share air with it.
So pretty much the same Corsair CX quality, but made more aesthetically pleasing, for ~20USD more.

4)Fans: can chop off a whopping 120USD there. The stock config of top and rear exhaust is the best overall when using air cooling in this chassis. Adding fans in the front is actually detrimental, because this model specializes in negative pressure when air cooling.
If the LEDs still can't be helped, then get a 2 pack.

That's ~180USD I see being wasted that could be better spent elsewhere.
 
Solution
The psu for the price is not worth it. You can pick up a Corsair TX650M for about $15 more, it’s semi modular but 80+ gold and 650watt should you need the extra wattage for an upgrade in the future. Agree that the msi b450max bazooka will help you save money where needed for things such as better psu or even cooling for your cpu.

Also, not that the gpu price is listed, but the 1660 ti would be a better option (if you can find either for a reasonable price), but they are very scarce right now at the price they should be.

The case fans on 510i are pretty good out of box. No need to replace unless you really want all the rgb. Which of course can easily be obtained and installed later on.
Edit: I agree 510 is more worth it as well to save even more money.
 
You can definitely improve that build by 'trimming some of the fat', and there's a fair bit of it in that build.
Focus on the meat(performance) first, then add the fat/flavor later.
1)Ram: can trim ~20USD with Crucial Ballistix or Adata Spectrix(if you really can't help the LEDs).
2)Chassis: can trim ~20 with the non-i model. The premium for that crappy Smart Device that's included isn't worth it.
3)Psu: that's an expensive psu:
-it's fully modular, which is a plus
-white, which is useless; the psu shroud hides it anyway
-has an LED fan. LED fans are always worse than their non-LED counterparts, and most users turn their psu's fan down so it's isolated from the rest of the system. Turn it fan up, and now the gpu has to share air with it.
So pretty much the same Corsair CX quality, but made more aesthetically pleasing, for ~20USD more.

4)Fans: can chop off a whopping 120USD there. The stock config of top and rear exhaust is the best overall when using air cooling in this chassis. Adding fans in the front is actually detrimental, because this model specializes in negative pressure when air cooling.
If the LEDs still can't be helped, then get a 2 pack.

That's ~180USD I see being wasted that could be better spent elsewhere.


Alright. Thanks for the help. I’ll start working on those fixes.