[SOLVED] It's worse than I thought. My 1st Build's CPU is running HOT! Like, 100c hot.

Apr 15, 2020
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SO much regret. As deep as I am in now I could have bought a prebuilt with better specs. Oh well, I'm learning a lot.

I got the basics together; it posted, unlicensed (let's not go there) WIN10Home loaded, BIOS updated, Main drivers installed.
Here's my build: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/hL79vW

I installed GeForce Experience, NVIDIA Control Panel, Steam and Origin and started Playing SWBF2. After a while I noticed the exhaust was pretty hot so I installed Open Hardware Monitor and Holy Heart Attack! CPU Package 103.5c and CPU CCD #1 102.3c! (I have no idea what those really even mean) I'm assuming that's too hot.

I've OC'd nothing except my RAM to it's specs. This morning I played around with the fan settings in the BIOS and really boosted them. It's helped a little but not much. Another quick session of SWBF2 ran it in the 90's, it spiked over 100 a few times. Just windows, chrome and OHM running right now, CPU total load under 3% and it's running at 70c.

Obviously I need more fans at least. I thought that only the 2 included case fans may run a little warm but with no OCing and it being a fairly mild system, as I understand it, it didn't expect it to run that hot.

I don't think this is an airflow issue. It also seems I've done something wrong or not done something right.

I read some articles and forum posts about voltages and the Ryzen 3600 but I didn't understand them. You'll really have to talk to me like I'm stupid. I'm in over my head. The Youtube videos make it look easy.

Any ideas on where to start, or what I can tell you to help you help me?

I'd really appreciate it. It would be a real bummer if I blew this build.
 
Maybe my next build and hopefully a long time from now I can look at liquid. Knowing what I know now, I'll probably always overshoot cooling in the future. I've learned my lesson.

The Fractal Design G isn't going to win awards for case flow. In fact, I'm kind of in a conundrum now about fan placement. I have an extra and can't decide where to put it in or if I even should. I was going to put it in the bottom like this:




But my PSU is too big, it won't fit.

So I have it like this:

I took the screen out of the top back vent (blowing out) and doubled the screens on the top front vent to hopefully create a little resistance to air flow. I thought of just covering the vent up with plastic leaving only the rearmost top vent open. This current layout provides very slight positive pressure. It's almost balanced.

I could put the extra in the top but it seems to create more problems that it solves.



If I put both blowing out it creates a LOT of negative pressure. It huffs incense from every crack - a vacuum cleaner.



If I put it blowing in, it seems that it would just cycle air around right there. It's not really moving anything.


Or I could do that and have LOTS and LOTS of positive pressure.



The way I have it now (top pic) seems to be my best placement just leaving the 5th fan out. I can add it in with significant negative or positive pressure or I can just cycle air around the top (which seems counterproductive).

I think I'm going to cover the top front vent completely so that I get this:

It seems a waste to not use the last fan but I think it's providing the best airflow as is.

Yeah? What do you guys think?
Personally...I'd put it in top as exhaust to scavenge the hot air out of the CPU/VRM area. With three fans up there you should be able to keep them at a low speed, so quiet, and still move a bunch of air. Creating a strong low pressure zone up there will draw even more cool air than the two fans up front will push in all alone while not needing to run them at a high (noisy) RPM.

In any case top and rear are only for exhaust, never for intake, so just put those options with one or more as intake out of your mind.

A fan in bottom pushing up into an axial GPU would provide it some cool air while gaming though. So it kind of depends...if the GPU's doing OK without it in bottom then in the top situated for exhaust. Just be sure to orient the PSU so it's drawing it's air from the bottom and not creating a low pressure zone just underneath the GPU that will starve it of cool air.
 
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Reactions: PurpleChange
Apr 15, 2020
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I guess this one is too hot to touch.

I'll try to post something more specific in the morning. Maybe the night owls can throw out some ideas.

Thanks for looking. I really hope you guys can steer me in the right direction.
 
That's a solid build. You couldn't have gotten a pre-build with better parts for the price.

What are you using to monitor temperature?

Did you make sure to remove the plastic cover off the base of cooler? I'm assuming you're using the stock cooler?

Edit: I see your using open hardware monitor. Remove that and download HWINFO64. Run sensors only. I like this app as it shows everything regarding your PC.

The most accurate would be ryzen master software. Go ahead a download this one as well. This one will show the most accurate CPU temp. But not much else.

Be sure to only run one program at a time.
 
I guess this one is too hot to touch.

I'll try to post something more specific in the morning. Maybe the night owls can throw out some ideas.

Thanks for looking. I really hope you guys can steer me in the right direction.
A second for using HWINfo to monitor your system. But that CPU temp is too hot whatever you're using. Also un-install any motherboard utilities you might have installed. Drivers for motherboard devices are OK....like audio and LAN.

Double and triple check your heatsink mounting...in addition to making sure any plastic film is removed it should be flat on CPU and evenly tightened so there's no rocking possible. Don't over-tighten, just enough to bottom the springs will do. Also the backplate flat and snug against the bottom surface of the motherboard.
 
Reactions: PurpleChange
Apr 15, 2020
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That's a solid build. You couldn't have gotten a pre-build with better parts for the price.

What are you using to monitor temperature?

Did you make sure to remove the plastic cover off the base of cooler? I'm assuming you're using the stock cooler?

Edit: I see your using open hardware monitor. Remove that and download HWINFO64. Run sensors only. I like this app as it shows everything regarding your PC.

The most accurate would be ryzen master software. Go ahead a download this one as well. This one will show the most accurate CPU temp. But not much else.

Be sure to only run one program at a time.
A second for using HWINfo to monitor your system. But that CPU temp is too hot whatever you're using. Also un-install any motherboard utilities you might have installed. Drivers for motherboard devices are OK....like audio and LAN.

Double and triple check your heatsink mounting...in addition to making sure any plastic film is removed it should be flat on CPU and evenly tightened so there's no rocking possible. Don't over-tighten, just enough to bottom the springs will do. Also the backplate flat and snug against the bottom surface of the motherboard.
Thanks for the responses and input. It seems to be running a little cooler today, maybe it's just cooler in the house and the case panel is off.

I uninstalled all the previous monitoring software and installed HWiNFO64 and Ryzen Master.

I don't understand most of what's listed in HWiNFO. Ryzen Master does have a nice temp display. I'm not ready for the rest of what happens with that software. I feel like I need that warranty even more right now. I also bought newegg's coverage for the CPU but I'm so done with newegg that I'd rather go through the manufacturer if I can.

Now about the heat sink: I have run this over in my mind so many times now I couldn't hardly sleep. I am positive there was no plastic film on the stock heat sink, it was packaged with empty space around the preapplied thermal compound. I was very careful not to touch it.

I did have a problem installing the heat sink. One of the screws did not seat and I was about 1/2 tightened down when I noticed. I had to loosen the other 3 almost all the way to get the last screw to seat properly. While this was happening, one side did come unscrewed. The springs on the opposing side caused the heatsink to rise up off the CPU, just a fraction of an inch but enough for me to see the paste and that it had made contact. There was no slipping, movement, sliding around or anything like that. The heatsink breifly lost contact with the CPU and then was gently let back down in the exact same position (the screws on the opposing side were just screwed in enough to hold everything in place.

I have replaced a few laptop fans and reinstalled a few heatsinks. I have a little confidence that it went well. At the very worst, the heatsink was not tightened evenly and the thermal paste didn't spread perfectly evenly? Maybe?

I've continued to read and watch videos. I don't pretend to understand 1/2 of it but I'm getting there. I have ordered a case full of fans but amazon is going to take their time with that. I'm looking at a better cooler. I've seen/read a lot about the stock cooler being inadequate. I also read some about incorrect readings and the validity of of Ryzen Master's temp reading on the 3000 series.

I have that and chrome running right now, case side panel off and aggressive fan settings in the BIOS(?). 58c.

I'm going to play a quick round of SWBF2, check RZ, close and check HWiNFO real quick. I take screenshots and we'll see where we are.

Thanks so much of the help. Just knowing you guys are here and seeing how helpful everyone is give me a lot of hope and confidence.
 
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94c in this shot. It did hit 97c. Isn't 95c the max for a Ryzen 3600? Where did I read that?


That's with the case side on. Ryzen Power Setting Balanced and SWBF2 settings optimal. Still in the 90s

So I guess those monitors I was using was giving me a false reading. I've read a little about that but don't really understand it all. It hit 104c and I would have thought that would have shut my PC down.

So I've seen/read a lot about these 3000 series running hot and how to change clock and voltage settings and I'm like, "Uhhhhhhh". I don't think I'm ready for all that.

I'll have 2x 140mm fans and another 120mm fan in a week. I'm seriously thinking about replacing the stock cooler with something a little beefier.

In the mean time (1-2 weeks), do you guys think I'm risking CPU life to play a little at these temps? Or should I hold off until I can get more case fans and cooler? Would it really help that much anyway?

Do these temps and readings look OK to you guys because I don't really know what most of it means. Is this just normal for the Ryzen 3000 series or do you think there is more going on here than not enough case fans?

Does anyone have other thoughts or links to threads that may be relevant? And possibly in a language I can understand? lol?

I still think 90s is too hot. I'm still concerned. Very.
 
I wouldn't run a Ryzen on higher than 90C temperatures, stock coolers do run hot but not that hot. I noticed that the case does not have an exhaust fan. Is that right? That's usually pretty bad for the circulation, though in my experience it shouldn't be as bad as you are experiencing. But there's nothing wrong with fixing that first.

BTW I never went above 65 on my 3600 with a Deepcool Gammax GTE.
 
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This looks like a badly mounted stock cooler. There isn't much else that it can be.

Replacing the stock cooler with let's see a Esport DUO or a Hyper 212 Black would be a good idea.

The last 3600 I built was idling at 35 and 65-70 in games with a Hyper 212 Black.
Hmm. I certainly won't argue with you. There was definitely an issue with the install but I really, really thought it was fine. Yet here I am.

I'm curious what you mean by badly mounted. Are you thinking it's not secured properly (I feel pretty confident that it is NOW secured properly) or that the thermal compound didn't spread evenly? Can that really make that much difference? I would think that people screw down their cooler one screw at a time frequently.

I dunno, man. It will be at least a week before I can get my hands on another cooler and more thermal compound. It all has to be ordered and that just isn't fast right now. I'm not pulling that cooler without more thermal compound.

If everything else does indeed look good, I'm going to accept your conclusion. I'm surprised if that's the case though. But I'll be happy to know it's just my stupidity and not a hardware problem.

Should I shut this thing down until I can get this all together or am OK running it hot a few weeks? Again, doesn't the PC shut down if it gets too hot? God knows my old HP laptop shutdown all day until I replaced the fan and Thermal paste. I ran it shutting down on me 3-4 times a day for a year. That was 7 years ago, the old dog is still running. Yeah, I want to use my new PC. But if you guys think I need to closet it for a few weeks, that's what I'll do.

Hey, thanks again. More input and thoughts are definitely welcome. I'm still learning.
 
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I wouldn't run a Ryzen on higher than 90C temperatures, stock coolers do run hot but not that hot. I noticed that the case does not have an exhaust fan. Is that right? That's usually pretty bad for the circulation, though in my experience it shouldn't be as bad as you are experiencing. But there's nothing wrong with fixing that first.

BTW I never went above 65 on my 3600 with a Deepcool Gammax GTE.
Yeah, I wanted to put one fan in the back first thing but it didn't come with plain case fan screws, had to order those. Again, I have 2x 140mm and another 120mm coming. And I'm still looking at a new cooler.

If i did indeed improperly mount the stock cooler, that will get fixed with a new cooler. At the very least I've ordered some thermal compound. I guess the only way to really rule it out is to pull the cooler and do it again.

Thanks again, guys. Keep it coming if you have thoughts.
 
Yeah, I wanted to put one fan in the back first thing but it didn't come with plain case fan screws, had to order those. Again, I have 2x 140mm and another 120mm coming. And I'm still looking at a new cooler.

If i did indeed improperly mount the stock cooler, that will get fixed with a new cooler. At the very least I've ordered some thermal compound. I guess the only way to really rule it out is to pull the cooler and do it again.

Thanks again, guys. Keep it coming if you have thoughts.
I have a feeling that something may indicate an improper airflow, though I'm not entirely sure. Try running it with the side panel open and the fans at maximum full blast mode, see what happens. If you can reduce it to below 90, you can temporarily run it until you get your parts.
 
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I have a feeling that something may indicate an improper airflow, though I'm not entirely sure. Try running it with the side panel open and the fans at maximum full blast mode, see what happens. If you can reduce it to below 90, you can temporarily run it until you get your parts.
Yeah with the case side off this morning and the settings lowered it ran mid/high 80s. If this is solely an airflow issue then AMD needs to start adding the next level cooler. I've read/watched a few say the stock cooler for the ryzen 3600 is simply underpowered. Had I known I would be buying another fan, I would have just bought the 3600X.

But I'm with the rest of you. I think it's just too hot to just be a airflow issue. Either screwed up the thermal paste or something else is wrong.

I'll have to rule them out one by one.

Side thought: Does anyone have a good link to a site where I can start to figure out what all HWiNFO is telling me? Still eager to learn.
 
...
I still think 90s is too hot. I'm still concerned. Very.
@PurpleChange : That's really hot, you gotta check into what the cooler mounting is like. Even the stock cooler should not be performing like that.

Also some things i noted..in the second column, the readings for 'C6 Residency'. Your processer is never going into C6 power state. It should be doing that quite frequently even when being used heavily. I don't know it could be the temp answer, but it does save power and keeps the processor from running hot. Something's keeping it from doing that and that's pretty significant.

So...did you install the AMD chipset drivers? if not do so. Now go into BIOS and find a setting for Global C States and ENABLE it. At the same time make sure AMD CoolnQuiet is ENABLED as well as Processor CPPC and CPPC Preferred Cores.

Also, make sure VCore setting is on AUTO. And also that Multiplier is on AUTO although it should be since your processor's changing clocks.

But by all means get that cpu cooler fixed.

ADDED: Have you enabled an auto-overclocking feature or 'game boost' feature in your BIOS? if so, turn it back off. Go with as close to stock settings as you can get for now.
 
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Yeah, I wanted to put one fan in the back first thing but it didn't come with plain case fan screws, had to order those. Again, I have 2x 140mm and another 120mm coming. And I'm still looking at a new cooler.

If i did indeed improperly mount the stock cooler, that will get fixed with a new cooler. At the very least I've ordered some thermal compound. I guess the only way to really rule it out is to pull the cooler and do it again.

Thanks again, guys. Keep it coming if you have thoughts.

Wow those were a lot of post to read. Ok heres the deal, I have a Ryzen 5 3600 too, and I agree with the rest, even in a hot enviroment (I do not know where in the worl do you live, or if a heater was on in your house), those temps for "just" gaming are high, Im guessing in a hot enviroment around 80°~85°C while gaming will be the usual reading.

I also agree on hwinfo and, from my personal testing, the new version of MSI Afterburner (which inlcudes an OSD thats awesome to keep an eye during gam play), also display the Ryzen 3rd gen temps correctly.

Now, you should be able to unscrew the cooler, make sure and screw it back in but in a cross patern (q turn at the time):
1 3
4 2

And yes adding an extra fan to the back of your case which has good airflow (once the fans are installed) will help too.

A few questions, sorry if some sound sa bit stupid one

1. You did plug the sotck cooler to the right CPU Fan Header, asking cause that motherboard has a lot of fan headers, even a pump one? (the one near the black memory slot and to the top of the board).

2. Have you tried disable PBO in BIOS?

3. Did you installed any motherboard extra software, like MSI Dragon Center? (if you did, uninstall it and try again to see if temps are now better).
 
Reactions: drea.drechsler
I would remount the cooler.
In particular, pay attention to how you tighten it down.
You want to do it a little bit at a time on each screw, and do it in a criss cross pattern. It is important to get the cooler on level.
 
Apr 15, 2020
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@PurpleChange : That's really hot, you gotta check into what the cooler mounting is like. Even the stock cooler should not be performing like that.

Also some things i noted..in the second column, the readings for 'C6 Residency'. Your processer is never going into C6 power state. It should be doing that quite frequently even when being used heavily. I don't know it could be the temp answer, but it does save power and keeps the processor from running hot. Something's keeping it from doing that and that's pretty significant.

So...did you install the AMD chipset drivers? if not do so. Now go into BIOS and find a setting for Global C States and ENABLE it. At the same time make sure AMD CoolnQuiet is ENABLED as well as Processor CPPC and CPPC Preferred Cores.

Also, make sure VCore setting is on AUTO. And also that Multiplier is on AUTO although it should be since your processor's changing clocks.

But by all means get that cpu cooler fixed.

ADDED: Have you enabled an auto-overclocking feature or 'game boost' feature in your BIOS? if so, turn it back off. Go with as close to stock settings as you can get for now.
Disclaimer: In following these instructions I have no idea what I am actually doing to my PC and why. I'm just doing it and logging every change to back and undo if I need. If anyone can try to briefly explain what I'm doing, I'd appreciate the effort. Although it may be wasted, I'm obviously not an IT guy.

Yes, I new installed all MSI drivers including chipset drivers.
In BIOS:
I changed Global C States from Auto to Enabled
I changed CoolnQuiet from Auto to Enabled
I changed CPPC from Auto to Enabled
I changed CPPC Preferred Cores from Auto to Enabled
If by VCore you mean CPU Core Voltage, that is set to AUTO
I could not find anything in my BIOS search regarding multipliers. I don't know what else to look for that under.

Yes, I tried Game Boost once when I was adjusting the fans. When I logged back on and loaded a game it shut my PC down. I tried three times. The I went back and turned off Game Boost and all good. No more Game Boost. Game Boost No Bueno.

Here is a HWiNFO Screenshot after those changes. Hope that you can make sense of it.



Thanks!

Wow those were a lot of post to read. Ok heres the deal, I have a Ryzen 5 3600 too, and I agree with the rest, even in a hot enviroment (I do not know where in the worl do you live, or if a heater was on in your house), those temps for "just" gaming are high, Im guessing in a hot enviroment around 80°~85°C while gaming will be the usual reading.

I also agree on hwinfo and, from my personal testing, the new version of MSI Afterburner (which inlcudes an OSD thats awesome to keep an eye during gam play), also display the Ryzen 3rd gen temps correctly.

Now, you should be able to unscrew the cooler, make sure and screw it back in but in a cross patern (q turn at the time):
1 3
4 2

And yes adding an extra fan to the back of your case which has good airflow (once the fans are installed) will help too.

A few questions, sorry if some sound sa bit stupid one

1. You did plug the sotck cooler to the right CPU Fan Header, asking cause that motherboard has a lot of fan headers, even a pump one? (the one near the black memory slot and to the top of the board).

2. Have you tried disable PBO in BIOS?

3. Did you installed any motherboard extra software, like MSI Dragon Center? (if you did, uninstall it and try again to see if temps are now better).
Again, Disclaimer: In following these instructions I have no idea what I am actually doing to my PC and why. I'm just doing it and logging every change to back and undo if I need. If anyone can try to briefly explain what I'm doing, I'd appreciate the effort. Although it may be wasted, I'm obviously not an IT guy.

1. Yes, I just checked my mobo manual. It is correct.

2. I have changed Precision Boost Overdrive from Auto to Disabled

3. No added motherboard software (I don't think so anyway)

Please note the screenshot above of after I've made these and the above changes.

I would remount the cooler.
In particular, pay attention to how you tighten it down.
You want to do it a little bit at a time on each screw, and do it in a criss cross pattern. It is important to get the cooler on level.
Yes, that's the only way to rule it out. This may be dumb, but can I remount -carefully- with the same Thermal Compound? I feel stupid for asking that but if I'm waiting for thermal compound then I waiting for thermal compound and this whole diagnostic waits for that. So be it.

I don't know where I would be without you guys. I am running a D&D game in an hour (I wanted to use my new PC, oh well). So I need to sign off for a while. I'm going to let the PC run background and screenshot HWiNFO again in a handful of hours. I need to take a break from this for a while.

You guys are awesome.
 

Afro_ninja199

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Disclaimer: In following these instructions I have no idea what I am actually doing to my PC and why. I'm just doing it and logging every change to back and undo if I need. If anyone can try to briefly explain what I'm doing, I'd appreciate the effort. Although it may be wasted, I'm obviously not an IT guy.

Yes, I new installed all MSI drivers including chipset drivers.
In BIOS:
I changed Global C States from Auto to Enabled
I changed CoolnQuiet from Auto to Enabled
I changed CPPC from Auto to Enabled
I changed CPPC Preferred Cores from Auto to Enabled
If by VCore you mean CPU Core Voltage, that is set to AUTO
I could not find anything in my BIOS search regarding multipliers. I don't know what else to look for that under.

Yes, I tried Game Boost once when I was adjusting the fans. When I logged back on and loaded a game it shut my PC down. I tried three times. The I went back and turned off Game Boost and all good. No more Game Boost. Game Boost No Bueno.

Here is a HWiNFO Screenshot after those changes. Hope that you can make sense of it.



Thanks!



Again, Disclaimer: In following these instructions I have no idea what I am actually doing to my PC and why. I'm just doing it and logging every change to back and undo if I need. If anyone can try to briefly explain what I'm doing, I'd appreciate the effort. Although it may be wasted, I'm obviously not an IT guy.

1. Yes, I just checked my mobo manual. It is correct.

2. I have changed Precision Boost Overdrive from Auto to Disabled

3. No added motherboard software (I don't think so anyway)

Please note the screenshot above of after I've made these and the above changes.



Yes, that's the only way to rule it out. This may be dumb, but can I remount -carefully- with the same Thermal Compound? I feel stupid for asking that but if I'm waiting for thermal compound then I waiting for thermal compound and this whole diagnostic waits for that. So be it.

I don't know where I would be without you guys. I am running a D&D game in an hour (I wanted to use my new PC, oh well). So I need to sign off for a while. I'm going to let the PC run background and screenshot HWiNFO again in a handful of hours. I need to take a break from this for a while.

You guys are awesome.

yes you can reset your cooler again
 
Reactions: PurpleChange
Disclaimer: In following these instructions I have no idea what I am actually doing to my PC and why. I'm just doing it and logging every change to back and undo if I need. If anyone can try to briefly explain what I'm doing, I'd appreciate the effort. Although it may be wasted, I'm obviously not an IT guy.

Yes, I new installed all MSI drivers including chipset drivers.
In BIOS:
I changed Global C States from Auto to Enabled
I changed CoolnQuiet from Auto to Enabled
I changed CPPC from Auto to Enabled
I changed CPPC Preferred Cores from Auto to Enabled
If by VCore you mean CPU Core Voltage, that is set to AUTO
I could not find anything in my BIOS search regarding multipliers. I don't know what else to look for that under.

Yes, I tried Game Boost once when I was adjusting the fans. When I logged back on and loaded a game it shut my PC down. I tried three times. The I went back and turned off Game Boost and all good. No more Game Boost. Game Boost No Bueno.

Here is a HWiNFO Screenshot after those changes. Hope that you can make sense of it.



Thanks!



Again, Disclaimer: In following these instructions I have no idea what I am actually doing to my PC and why. I'm just doing it and logging every change to back and undo if I need. If anyone can try to briefly explain what I'm doing, I'd appreciate the effort. Although it may be wasted, I'm obviously not an IT guy.

1. Yes, I just checked my mobo manual. It is correct.

2. I have changed Precision Boost Overdrive from Auto to Disabled

3. No added motherboard software (I don't think so anyway)

Please note the screenshot above of after I've made these and the above changes.



Yes, that's the only way to rule it out. This may be dumb, but can I remount -carefully- with the same Thermal Compound? I feel stupid for asking that but if I'm waiting for thermal compound then I waiting for thermal compound and this whole diagnostic waits for that. So be it.

I don't know where I would be without you guys. I am running a D&D game in an hour (I wanted to use my new PC, oh well). So I need to sign off for a while. I'm going to let the PC run background and screenshot HWiNFO again in a handful of hours. I need to take a break from this for a while.

You guys are awesome.
Yes you should be able to re-mount the cooler, which in fact is not like "re-mount", more like unscrew it, and then screw back in the cross pattern I showed back in my post, no need to take it off the CPU.

Anyways, I see some of the advised was good cause youre temps dropped about 14 °C.

Enjoy your PC, but always keep an eye on temps, no neeed to go maniac, just a look every now and then.

Cheers
 
Apr 15, 2020
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Yes you should be able to re-mount the cooler, which in fact is not like "re-mount", more like unscrew it, and then screw back in the cross pattern I showed back in my post, no need to take it off the CPU.

Anyways, I see some of the advised was good cause youre temps dropped about 14 °C.

Enjoy your PC, but always keep an eye on temps, no neeed to go maniac, just a look every now and then.

Cheers
Yes, I can definitely do that. I will do that later tonight. Hopefully that will solve this. If not, at least it's ruled out.
 
Yes, I can definitely do that. I will do that later tonight. Hopefully that will solve this. If not, at least it's ruled out.
In any case those MAX 80°C while gaming you showed in your last pic sounds alright for the stock cooler. Prheps once you have the rear case fan it will go down a bit more, or it will be the same but with the case side panel closed.
 
...
This may be dumb, but can I remount -carefully- with the same Thermal Compound?
...
I think everyone's missing that you're going to reuse the the compound since you don't have any...

Normally no, do not reuse compound. But in your case you don't have any and if the cooler's poorly mounted, fixing that outweighs the bad practice of reusing.

But just so you know...in a pinch you can even use toothpaste as a TIM. Yes, it works just fine...for a while. But it's only an emergency use, and replace with the real stuff as soon as you get it.

And looking at your report: you're going into C6 but not very often but temperature is way down now. Tdie average is a 74C MAX, that's a lot better and in the safe range at least.

EDIT add: btw, your processor is performing very well! It's hitting 4200 boosts on all cores with Vcore of 1.356 and not needing over 1.45 in boosts. That's good, it's just running hot, especially since core utilization is running mostly in single digits.
 
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I think everyone's missing that you're going to reuse the the compound since you don't have any...

Normally no, do not reuse compound. But in your case you don't have any and if the cooler's poorly mounted, fixing that outweighs the bad practice of reusing.

But just so you know...in a pinch you can even use toothpaste as a TIM. Yes, it works just fine...for a while. But it's only an emergency use, and replace with the real stuff as soon as you get it.

And looking at your report: you're going into C6 but not very often but temperature is way down now. Tdie average is a 74C MAX, that's a lot better and in the safe range at least.

EDIT add: btw, your processor is performing very well! It's hitting 4200 boosts on all cores with Vcore of 1.356 and not needing over 1.45 in boosts. That's good, it's just running hot, especially since core utilization is running mostly in single digits.
Half my D&D group couldn't make it so I'm back at it.

I DO have some thermal paste. It's kinda old and not very good. Let me go get it and see what we have.

Halnziye Thermal Grease HY510, Conductivity: >1.93W/m-k, Resistance <0.225C -in2/W
and
Thermaltake Heatsink Compound, Conductivity: >3.0W/m-k, Resistance <0.201C -in2/W

The Thermaltake is considerably older than the Halnziye but it seems a little better. In fact, I used it to change the fan in my old HP a few months ago and it's running great. It should certainly do better than toothpaste lol! It will absolutely do until I get another cooler.

I just didn't wan to use it because it's old and maybe substandard for modern CPUs. But I didn't think about using it in this pinch.

I'll update when I'm done. Cross our fingers!
 
Apr 15, 2020
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My worst nightmare.

I unscrewed until the back brackets fell off the back of the mobo (now I have to take it all apart lol). And despite all my gentle tugging the heatsink would not come off the CPU. I checked to make sure there was absolutely nothing still holding it on and then tugged a little harder.

The CPU came out with heatsink!

I can't get the CPU off the heatsink. I haven't tried too hard because I'm scared. I tugged gently around the endges but I'm so afraid to touch the pins.

How did the CPU unseat? The bar was down. How could it run if it was seated properly in it's holder thingy?

What damage have I done?

How do I get the CPU off the heatsink? I don't want to pry it off.

I am freaking out. I can't afford to replace this CPU.

help?
 

Joel89

Prominent
May 2, 2020
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Wedge something between them like a thin piece of plastic or something. DO NOT try to put it back in like that. Grab some alcohol and a spray bottle and clean off as much of the thermal past as possible. I had this happen to me once. I learned the hard way about removing the cpu from the sync. Alcohol will remove the thermal past. Be sure to clean both the cpu and the cooler. When applying thermal past I think of the 5 side of a die to redo mine. I run an FX-8350 at around 45c average. Also I use the 212 Evo cooler from Cooler Master. It's big and bulky but if you have room in the case, it's a good cooler.
 
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