[SOLVED] It's worse than I thought. My 1st Build's CPU is running HOT! Like, 100c hot.

[PurpleChange]

SO much regret. As deep as I am in now I could have bought a prebuilt with better specs. Oh well, I'm learning a lot.

I got the basics together; it posted, unlicensed (let's not go there) WIN10Home loaded, BIOS updated, Main drivers installed.
Here's my build: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/hL79vW

I installed GeForce Experience, NVIDIA Control Panel, Steam and Origin and started Playing SWBF2. After a while I noticed the exhaust was pretty hot so I installed Open Hardware Monitor and Holy Heart Attack! CPU Package 103.5c and CPU CCD #1 102.3c! (I have no idea what those really even mean) I'm assuming that's too hot.

I've OC'd nothing except my RAM to it's specs. This morning I played around with the fan settings in the BIOS and really boosted them. It's helped a little but not much. Another quick session of SWBF2 ran it in the 90's, it spiked over 100 a few times. Just windows, chrome and OHM running right now, CPU total load under 3% and it's running at 70c.

Obviously I need more fans at least. I thought that only the 2 included case fans may run a little warm but with no OCing and it being a fairly mild system, as I understand it, it didn't expect it to run that hot.

I don't think this is an airflow issue. It also seems I've done something wrong or not done something right.

I read some articles and forum posts about voltages and the Ryzen 3600 but I didn't understand them. You'll really have to talk to me like I'm stupid. I'm in over my head. The Youtube videos make it look easy.

Any ideas on where to start, or what I can tell you to help you help me?

I'd really appreciate it. It would be a real bummer if I blew this build.

 

[PurpleChange]

Ok this is making a little more sense. I think the bracket on the back side of the mobo was loose or unaligned. That's why I had so much trouble seating that screw. The bracket wasn't aligned.

I did get the CPU off the heatsink. I had to rig up a soft plastic tab to pry with. I was just afraid. It came off pretty easily once I had a tool I was confident with. The CPU looks good. No bent pins.

Trying now to figure out how to do this with the bracket unattached. I would have to hold it on the bottom to screw in the cooler. I don't get it.

The bracket is supposed to remain stuck to the back of the mobo once the hook brackets are removed right?

You guys must think I'm an idiot, huh? I would think I was an idiot. lol.

Any thoughts or advice? Do you want to tell me I'm stupid? lol?

Encouragement?

 

[Joel89]

Ok this is making a little more sense. I think the bracket on the back side of the mobo was loose or unaligned. That's why I had so much trouble seating that screw. The bracket wasn't aligned.

I did get the CPU off the heatsink. I had to rig up a soft plastic tab to pry with. I was just afraid. It came off pretty easily once I had a tool I was confident with. The CPU looks good. No bent pins.

Trying now to figure out how to do this with the bracket unattached. I would have to hold it on the bottom to screw in the cooler. I don't get it.

The bracket is supposed to remain stuck to the back of the mobo once the hook brackets are removed right?

You guys must think I'm an idiot, huh? I would think I was an idiot. lol.

Any thoughts or advice? Do you want to tell me I'm stupid? lol?

Encouragement?

I sent you a DM for real time help with your issue.
Is this the cooler that came with your cpu or a different one?
If it's different than the one that came with the cpu then the bracket has 2 sides. One side would be for an Intel cpu and the other side would be for AMD. Either way it should mount directly to the mobo from the back side of it. Meaning you have to remove the mobo from the case to attach the bracket.

 

[PurpleChange]

Wedge something between them like a thin piece of plastic or something. DO NOT try to put it back in like that. Grab some alcohol and a spray bottle and clean off as much of the thermal past as possible. I had this happen to me once. I learned the hard way about removing the cpu from the sync. Alcohol will remove the thermal past. Be sure to clean both the cpu and the cooler. When applying thermal past I think of the 5 side of a die to redo mine. I run an FX-8350 at around 45c average. Also I use the 212 Evo cooler from Cooler Master. It's big and bulky but if you have room in the case, it's a good cooler.

Yes! I'm on it. Almost done. Still trying to figure out how I will install the heatsink with the back bracket unattched to the mobo. I'm thinkning out Superglueing it but I'm sure that would void my warranty

 

[Joel89]

The bracket should have come with screws.

 

[Joel89]

Yes! I'm on it. Almost done. Still trying to figure out how I will install the heatsink with the back bracket unattched to the mobo. I'm thinkning out Superglueing it but I'm sure that would void my warranty

Don't use super glue it will get to hot and burn probably cause a fire. Or worse Mother board failure.

 

[PurpleChange]

That was terrifying. It's back together. No super glue. I found a plastic box exactly the right height to put under the mobo and hold the bracket.

It posted but gave me a message about changing cpu and that the cmos had cleared. I do not know for sure what that means. Does it clear my BIOS?
It gave a message F1 for setup
F2 for default.

I chose default. I haven't investigated much (I'm trying to get my heart rate back down) buy Windows looks a little messed up.

What is CMOS? What does clearing it do? What do I do now?

WHEW! My heart must be in good shape because if that didn't put me into cardiac arrest, nothing will.

It meant a lot knowing you guys were here.

Exciting, huh?

 

[PurpleChange]

I sent you a DM for real time help with your issue.
Is this the cooler that came with your cpu or a different one?
If it's different than the one that came with the cpu then the bracket has 2 sides. One side would be for an Intel cpu and the other side would be for AMD. Either way it should mount directly to the mobo from the back side of it. Meaning you have to remove the mobo from the case to attach the bracket.

Hey, thanks for the offer. Looks like I got it. I'm figuring out clearing CMOS reset my mobo. Do i just need to reinstall my mobo drivers and I'm good? Or is there more to it than that?

 

[Joel89]

That was terrifying. It's back together. No super glue. I found a plastic box exactly the right height to put under the mobo and hold the bracket.

It posted but gave me a message about changing cpu and that the cmos had cleared. I do not know for sure what that means. Does it clear my BIOS?
It gave a message F1 for setup
F2 for default.

I chose default. I haven't investigated much (I'm trying to get my heart rate back down) buy Windows looks a little messed up.

What is CMOS? What does clearing it do? What do I do now?

WHEW! My heart must be in good shape because if that didn't put me into cardiac arrest, nothing will.

It meant a lot knowing you guys were here.

Exciting, huh?

CMOS is your bios. So it sound to me like the little jumper on your mobo is in the wrong position. Do you have the manual for the mobo? This would be a lot easier over instant chat and time saving.

 

[PurpleChange]

The bracket should have come with screws.

And the bracket did not come with screws, the cooler did. It had screws to attach a clip-on cooler bracket on the front but not to attach the cooler. Once the front bracket was removed, as it had to be to install the stock cooler, the back bracket slipped.

Thus the whole problem snowballed from there I believe. I hope.

 

[Joel89]

Hey, thanks for the offer. Looks like I got it. I'm figuring out clearing CMOS reset my mobo. Do i just need to reinstall my mobo drivers and I'm good? Or is there more to it than that?

Try to install the drivers it came with but usually when CMOS says its been cleared it just mean that your bios setting are set to default. And I would recommend that you find screws for that bracket or get a new cooler that comes with a bracke and screws.

 

[PurpleChange]

So yeah, do I just update mobo drivers and that's it?

 

[Joel89]

The back plate*

 

[Joel89]

So yeah, do I just update mobo drivers and that's it?

If the pc is running, as in, it's on, follow the mobo instructions on installing bios drivers

 

[PurpleChange]

Gotcha. I still have them in my downloads folder.

 

[Joel89]

If your computer is running as it should I would recommend preforming a stress test for a few minutes and check what temps your a getting. I would say 5-10 minutes would be a test. If you see temps going up over 80c, kill it and get a new back plate with screws and possibly a new cooler.

 

[Joel89]

Hyper 212 EVO

www.coolermaster.com

This is my cooler and if you look at the specs it comes with an All-in-one mount. One side works for Intel and if you put it on backwards it works for AMD which i had to do. Also came with screws and only cost me like 20-30 bucks.

 

[PurpleChange]

If your computer is running as it should I would recommend preforming a stress test for a few minutes and check what temps your a getting. I would say 5-10 minutes would be a test. If you see temps going up over 80c, kill it and get a new back plate with screws and possibly a new cooler.

Can you recommend a stress test? Is that software I need to install or is it a mobo or windows feature?

 

[Joel89]

Can you recommend a stress test? Is that software I need to install or is it a mobo or windows feature?

I use heavyload but its really up to you, Heavyload is really simple to use. As for temps. I run my test and then reboot and check my temps in my bios. I have AsRock bios and it shows temps. idk about your bios as each one is different. And Programs for temps are all different.

 

[Karadjgne]

Cmos is not bios.

Bios is like a Conductor in an orchestra, it says what goes where and how.

Cmos is the list of settings in the bios, stored someplace else. It's the sheet music the Conductor uses.

The bios has a default list of settings, that's all it's own and only gets replaced when you upgrade the bios. Cmos settings get changed with windows, upgrades, add/subtract hardware or software etc.

When you start the pc, bios goes one of two ways, it either loads the default settings or loads what settings the cmos gives it.

By resetting bios, you return any changed settings back to factory default. By resetting cmos, you wipe out the list, a blank slate, which then forces bios to load factory default settings.

There's 2 kinds of shutdowns. A soft shutdown via windows saves all the info in the ram about settings to the cmos. It makes a list. So the pc at boot gets the list and starts fast as bios doesn't have to go looking for stuff.

A hard shutdown or instant shutdown or reset button, doesn't save any info to cmos, so there's no list. At boot, it forces bios to go search and find everything from the cpu to drives to drivers, speeds, voltages, ram, everything. Takes a long time to boot.

Clearing cmos will force bios to factory defaults, everything is fresh and new settings just waiting on a windows shutdown. Resetting bios to defaults does not clear cmos, so on next boot up, any prior saved settings get written to bios.

So if you need to reset the bios to factory defaults, always clear the cmos as well or any bad or funky settings will just get re-applied.

 

[Joel89]

Cmos is not bios.

Bios is like a Conductor in an orchestra, it says what goes where and how.

Cmos is the list of settings in the bios, stored someplace else. It's the sheet music the Conductor uses.

The bios has a default list of settings, that's all it's own and only gets replaced when you upgrade the bios. Cmos settings get changed with windows, upgrades, add/subtract hardware or software etc.

When you start the pc, bios goes one of two ways, it either loads the default settings or loads what settings the cmos gives it.

By resetting bios, you return any changed settings back to factory default. By resetting cmos, you wipe out the list, a blank slate, which then forces bios to load factory default settings.

There's 2 kinds of shutdowns. A soft shutdown via windows saves all the info in the ram about settings to the cmos. It makes a list. So the pc at boot gets the list and starts fast as bios doesn't have to go looking for stuff.

A hard shutdown or instant shutdown or reset button, doesn't save any info to cmos, so there's no list. At boot, it forces bios to go search and find everything from the cpu to drives to drivers, speeds, voltages, ram, everything. Takes a long time to boot.

Clearing cmos will force bios to factory defaults, everything is fresh and new settings just waiting on a windows shutdown. Resetting bios to defaults does not clear cmos, so on next boot up, any prior saved settings get written to bios.

So if you need to reset the bios to factory defaults, always clear the cmos as well or any bad or funky settings will just get re-applied.

Yup I knew I had to be wrong about something and I'm glad you said it. I'm not sure what the outcome of the temps was since there has been no more response from the poster but I hope all went well. You seem very versed in computer knowledge while I'm an amatuer at best. Any chance I can get you to take a look at my thread about my hard drive issue if you get minute? I'll be up a little while longer. If not I'm sure someone will know the answer.

 

[Schlachtwolf]

Thermal paste is like glue when it is cold so ALWAYS run the pc for a few minutes BEFORE removeing the cooler to warm it up and get it easy to slide, I did this as a novice many years ago..... broke a pin in the Mobo socket, hope and pray for you that no damage was done..... part of the learning curve.....

 

[PurpleChange]

Still hot.

Despite all the issues, the CPU looked fine. The pins are perfect. It was just really stuck to the heatsink. When I removed it, I pulled straight up. I don't see any damage to the CPU or the socket. Upon reinstallation the socket holds the CPU firmly, there is no resistance when locking the CPU into the socket.

The cooler didn't go on any differently this time than the last other than using really lousy thermal paste this time and me being absolutely sure all the screws started before I began, 1/4 turn at a time, in a crossing pattern and ended up with all the screws tightening down on the same rotation just like the first time.

The thermal paste was evenly distributed with a equal amount of paste squeezed out on all four sides from the first attempt. Yes, I had trouble with the bracket and starting a screw, but it tightened down evenly the first time.

...I think. lol. I just don't know any more.

Maybe it's the lousy paste?

Maybe it's been something else all along?

Maybe I damaged something I can't see, realize or understand despite all my caution and care? (seems to me that if I damaged something, the PC wouldn't post).

Maybe some great thermal paste and some awesome cooling and airflow will make a difference when I get all that installed. I can hope. But this processor, even under it's current airflow and cooling conditions, shouldn't be running this hot, now more than ever. The CPU and cooler is installed correctly, we know that.

In the morning I will reset all the BIOS tweaks we did earlier. That seemed to help a little. But I have no idea what the next step is.

Hopefully one of you guys have some advice. You've certainly been supportive and helpful so far. I need to sleep.

 

[drea.drechsler]

I'm baffled at how I did this.
....

It's very, very common. Pull some dental floss between the cpu and heatsink and it will come away.

BEFORE putting it back in look along each and every row of pins in each direction to look for any that are bent. A bent pin is easily staightened up with a .5mm pentel pencil with the lead removed...slip it over the pin to bend it.

It's very common, but it's also not something you want to do. To avoid this next time: heat up the system first, then shut down to remove it. Don't just tug straight up but loosen the screws then twist it side to side slightly before lifting it off.

 

[RodroX]

Still hot.

Despite all the issues, the CPU looked fine. The pins are perfect. It was just really stuck to the heatsink. When I removed it, I pulled straight up. I don't see any damage to the CPU or the socket. Upon reinstallation the socket holds the CPU firmly, there is no resistance when locking the CPU into the socket.

The cooler didn't go on any differently this time than the last other than using really lousy thermal paste this time and me being absolutely sure all the screws started before I began, 1/4 turn at a time, in a crossing pattern and ended up with all the screws tightening down on the same rotation just like the first time.

The thermal paste was evenly distributed with a equal amount of paste squeezed out on all four sides from the first attempt. Yes, I had trouble with the bracket and starting a screw, but it tightened down evenly the first time.

...I think. lol. I just don't know any more.

Maybe it's the lousy paste?

Maybe it's been something else all along?

Maybe I damaged something I can't see, realize or understand despite all my caution and care? (seems to me that if I damaged something, the PC wouldn't post).

Maybe some great thermal paste and some awesome cooling and airflow will make a difference when I get all that installed. I can hope. But this processor, even under it's current airflow and cooling conditions, shouldn't be running this hot, now more than ever. The CPU and cooler is installed correctly, we know that.

In the morning I will reset all the BIOS tweaks we did earlier. That seemed to help a little. But I have no idea what the next step is.

Hopefully one of you guys have some advice. You've certainly been supportive and helpful so far. I need to sleep.

If you loaded the default settings, then you may need to go back to the BIOS and set all those options you posted earlier again. That should let you go back to the Max 80°C.

And again, as I worte already 80°C as Max temp should not be an issue for Ryzen 3rd gen.

 

[drea.drechsler]

...
Maybe it's the lousy paste?
...

It could be lousy paste.... how did you apply it? a pea-size dot in the middle is preferred, but if that stuff you used was really old it may be dried up and won't spread out evenly with cooler pressure. Older pastes also needed a bit of time at hot temperature to achieve full effectiveness.

But also seconding that after a CMOS reset you need to re-enable all the BIOS settings from before...AMD CoolnQuiet, Global C States, Processor CPPC and CPPC Preferred states all enabled. Don't leave in AUTOMATIC or DEFAULT as that seems to be same as DISABLED in many mobo BIOS's. Those settings are important to fully enable the processor's power saving features and keep it from running so hot even at idle and to prefer cooler running cores for lightly threaded tasks.

Also, check that Windows is running the Ryzen Balanced power plan. That ALSO let's the processor manage power to keep cooler; it does it much better than Windows can. DO NOT change minimum power state from 99%. You'll only have the Ryzen Balanced plan available if you've installed the AMD Chipset drivers.