Leak testing power up

[axlrose]

So I'm still struggling to figure out how to connect power to my first water cooling loop and of course the most scared at this point as I'm worried water will spray over all of my components. I keep reading directions on how to connect power only to the pump/reservoir combo I have, but I just don't seem to be able to make heads or tails of the wording. Perhaps my lack of pc water cooling vocab.

I am wondering if this piece at the top simply plugs into the back of the psu to trick it into thinking it's plugged into the motherboard???

Then can I simply connect the cable in the middle with the ability to plug into the psu with attached sata connectors?

And then use the adaptor on the bottom to attach the sata connectors to the pump?

Then I simply power on the psu until there is room in the reservoir for more coolant, so I power off the psu, add more coolant and power back up again?

Thanks. I just want to make sure now that I have my loop set up, that I only power the loop in case there are leaks on my first every installation.

 

[axlrose]

Seems maybe I still have to attach the motherboard power cable to the psu, but then instead of connecting it to the motherboard, i put the plug on the end to trick it into thinking it's attached to the motherboard and that way it will power up?

 

[Mikel_4]

Don't get estranged,
- ATX bridge
- SATA power to 4 pin molex adapter for pump
- SATA power to 3 pin/4 pin power adapter for radiator fans

■ Disconnect your PSU to your system, disconnect PSU power cord, if your PSU has on/off switch set to off.
■ Connect 24 pin ATX header to your ATX Bridge, the idea is not to use your Case's power button when pump priming. Pumps can't be dry, the bridge acts like powerON state, because loops need to be bubbles and leak free so powering the pump without powering the motherboard prevents damage to your build.
■ Connect adapter to pump power cable, you can connect radiator fans later.
■ Recheck your loop, make sure everything intact, firm, and in place.

BLEEDING ME (metallica)

■ Flush the radiator. Welding residues will damage your pump.
■ After finding your desired mounting spot, poor the coolant to reservoir. or if you use multi port rad as res fill it up to thread limit. Don't exceed thread or the plug won't seal securely. Use clean funnel, coffee/tea filter paper, and clean hose.
■ Place paper towel on all joints.
■ Plug the power cord, the idea is to push away bubbles, no exact times usually in a CPU GPU one rad loop with 1 meter tube a 12 hours will do but if there's still bubbles left, jig or flip your case to lure it onto reservoir and up to air.
■ Add coolant to reservoir as necessary.
■ Lets hope no leak

 

[axlrose]

Thanks. That helps. It's a new build and new loop, so nothing is attached with power yet. So that helps. I guess if I do it wrong, it won't power and I'll try again. Read to use and old PSU because all of the on offing can be hard on a PSU. Sounds like the filling process can take quite a while with all of the incremental coolant fills.

 

[Mikel_4]

The bridge and connector won't be clamped if you connect them in reverse, kinda like sticking USB drive. We'll be appreciate if you upload the completed and working build of yours here.

 

[axlrose]

Hoping to try loading the coolant tomorrow...

Is there a place for building logs on Tom's? I'm photographing everything to make one for mnpctech as is. I've got about 75 pictures already.

 

[axlrose]

Here's what it's looking like so far.

 

[axlrose]

Hoping I can detach the reservoir and find room to add coolant without too much trouble as I don't have clearance installed obviously.

 

[Mikel_4]

save some money for PETG or metal pipe (chrome plated brass or copper) + hard tube fitting + angled adapters + PETG bending kit.
You don't have to detach, use funnel and hose.

 

[axlrose]

I had planned to do petg but got multiple suggestions to just use the kit first and learn water cooling first. Then go back and learn tube bending later. Soooo glad I did. The learning curve has been high. I did just see a work log with steel tubing that would look awesome in my all silver and black build.

 

[Mikel_4]

touche, I'm too busy doing job order, maybe this year I'll take a brake and will finally finished my silver/dark tone loop. I don't like RGB too.

 

[axlrose]

These guys are my favorite, and they are local.

https://mnpctech.com/guide-to-stainless-steel-tubing-for-pc-water-cooling.html#/cmsPage/107

 

[axlrose]

 

[Mikel_4]

how long is it been?

 

[axlrose]

About 14 hours now. No leaks that I can detect, though over the last two six hour periods, I've had room in the res to top off about an eighth of an inch of fluid. I'm chalking that up to air in the system still (the res still looks like 7up) or the fact that it's winter and the heat is running in the house and the lid is off the res for those six hours and there must be a little evaporation over that amount of time. I'm going to let is run a little longer.

 

[rubix_1011]

Likely not as much evaporation as it is air displacement. You'll want to periodically stop the pump to allow air to accumulate so it can be displaced in the reservoir when you start back up. One good thing is you have the I/O of your radiator oriented 'up' so that air should be forced out as much as possible.

If you haven't encountered any leaks after 30-60 minutes, you likely aren't going to beyond that, but since it is your first loop, not a bad idea to make sure that it runs for a few hours without leaks.

 

[axlrose]

Ran the loop for 21 hours. No issues. Rotated the case around a bunch after I installed the res again and heard a big gurgle. I'm sure when I start it up again, it will need to be topped off again.