LED & LCD Colour Calibration

[Thollupped]

Hi all,

i recently ran into some issues with bad colour reproduction on my monitors, so purchased a Spyder5express from datacolour. i've just spent a little while calibrating my LED 19" (16:9) AOC E2070Swn and LCD 19" (4:3) DELL 1908FP, and found the colour from the LCD is far more blue than than the colour of the LED.
I fully reset both monitors prior to calibration, and re-ran the process to see if it was user error, and got the same result.

i'm not sure what is causing this, so would love any help if people have ideas!

 

[ccampy]

Your probally at the limit of the moniters ability if you wanted colour reproduction you should have a got an IPS model moniter

 

[Solandri]

I haven't used Spyder's software so can't give you specific instructions. When calibrating, you generally have two options. Calibrate to a specific white point (usually 6500 K), or calibrate using the monitor's white point. The latter will use the monitor's default "white" (100% R, 100% G, 100% B) as the white point, basically preserving whatever color cast the monitor has, and only correcting the brightness curves.

When calibrating to a specific white point like 6500 K, the calibration process usually starts with the software displaying a white square, and giving you the opportunity to tweak the monitor's color settings until the white square matches the white point you're targeting. If you're not getting this step, then you're going to have to dig around in the software until you find it. If it's even present - sometimes the entry level calibrating software omits it.

If your calibration software doesn't have this capability, then (best option) upgrade to software which does. Or (worst option) set both monitors to display a pure white screen. Tweak the RGB values of your LCD monitor until the white more or less matches the white on the LED. Please note that individual RGB adjustments are usually only available with analog (VGA) input. If you're using digital input (DVI, HDMI, or displayport), most monitors lock you in to the monitor's default white point. Instead, look for a setting which lets you tweak the monitor's color temperature.

It's important to understand that there is no fixed value of "white". Your brain is incredibly adept at taking whatever ambient light is available, and setting that as white. That's why photos taken in daylight, in shade, and indoors under incandescent light all appear to have color casts, but you don't see these color casts with your eyes. Daylight is about 6500K, shade about 8000-9000K (very blue), and incandescent lighting about 2800K (very red). So if you dragged your two monitors outdoors and viewed them in the shade, the LCD would appear white and the LED would appear to have a red-orange cast.

 

[Thollupped]

I haven't used Spyder's software so can't give you specific instructions. When calibrating, you generally have two options. Calibrate to a specific white point (usually 6500 K), or calibrate using the monitor's white point. The latter will use the monitor's default "white" (100% R, 100% G, 100% B) as the white point, basically preserving whatever color cast the monitor has, and only correcting the brightness curves.

When calibrating to a specific white point like 6500 K, the calibration process usually starts with the software displaying a white square, and giving you the opportunity to tweak the monitor's color settings until the white square matches the white point you're targeting. If you're not getting this step, then you're going to have to dig around in the software until you find it. If it's even present - sometimes the entry level calibrating software omits it.

If your calibration software doesn't have this capability, then (best option) upgrade to software which does. Or (worst option) set both monitors to display a pure white screen. Tweak the RGB values of your LCD monitor until the white more or less matches the white on the LED. Please note that individual RGB adjustments are usually only available with analog (VGA) input. If you're using digital input (DVI, HDMI, or displayport), most monitors lock you in to the monitor's default white point. Instead, look for a setting which lets you tweak the monitor's color temperature.

It's important to understand that there is no fixed value of "white". Your brain is incredibly adept at taking whatever ambient light is available, and setting that as white. That's why photos taken in daylight, in shade, and indoors under incandescent light all appear to have color casts, but you don't see these color casts with your eyes. Daylight is about 6500K, shade about 8000-9000K (very blue), and incandescent lighting about 2800K (very red). So if you dragged your two monitors outdoors and viewed them in the shade, the LCD would appear white and the LED would appear to have a red-orange cast.

Thanks so much for the advice, the software included only provides a single process of calibration (using the default white as you describe). i'll try matching them manually using white screens, but is this before or after i run the calibration?

Also, i'm not sure how to go about finding different software.. it's almost double the price to go to Spyder5pro, which seems to offer a lot more options, but i don't have the money right now! do you have an recommendations/will any software work?

 

[Suzuki@1473780084@1473780163]

To add to that. If you're not usd to a calibrated LCD; it's going to appear to have a yellow/orange tint to it, until you get used to it. When you're done, I always recommend blu ray's, specifically some animated movie, if you don't have access to a calibration disc.

 

[Solandri]

Thanks so much for the advice, the software included only provides a single process of calibration (using the default white as you describe). i'll try matching them manually using white screens, but is this before or after i run the calibration?

Before.

Also, i'm not sure how to go about finding different software.. it's almost double the price to go to Spyder5pro, which seems to offer a lot more options, but i don't have the money right now! do you have an recommendations/will any software work?

I dunno. I tend to get the pricier colorimeters specifically for software with the capability to set the white point (and black point). A quick Google search brings up HCFR, which is free but seems to support limited hardware. You can also use SpectraCal's CalMAN Colormatch to check the profile, but not to generate one. Their software to generate a profile costs $199 to several thousand dollars, but is used by pretty much every review site I've seen.

http://www.marcelpatek.com/hcfr.html
http://calman.spectracal.com/calman-colormatch.html

 

[Thollupped]

Thanks so much for the advice, the software included only provides a single process of calibration (using the default white as you describe). i'll try matching them manually using white screens, but is this before or after i run the calibration?

Before.

Also, i'm not sure how to go about finding different software.. it's almost double the price to go to Spyder5pro, which seems to offer a lot more options, but i don't have the money right now! do you have an recommendations/will any software work?

I dunno. I tend to get the pricier colorimeters specifically for software with the capability to set the white point (and black point). A quick Google search brings up HCFR, which is free but seems to support limited hardware. You can also use SpectraCal's CalMAN Colormatch to check the profile, but not to generate one. Their software to generate a profile costs $199 to several thousand dollars, but is used by pretty much every review site I've seen.

http://www.marcelpatek.com/hcfr.html
http://calman.spectracal.com/calman-colormatch.html

Thanks for the help, i will investigate!