Liquid cooling kit water spills in PC.

[virtual-slay3r]

These are my computer specs.

Case ( NZXT Trinity ATX Mid-Tower Case w/400W Power Supply Black )

Case Lighting ( Neon Light Blue )

Power Supply ( ** iBUYPOWER Recommended for SLI ** Thermaltake Purepower 680 Watt Power Supply [SLI Ready] )

Processor ( Intel Core 2 Duo Processor E6700 (2x 2.66GHz/4MB L2 Cache/1066FSB) )

Processor Cooling ( [New !!!] iBUYPOWER Liquid CPU Cooling Fan System Kit --- [for INTEL CPU] )

Motherboard ( Asus P5N-SLI nForce 570-SLI Chipset w/7.1 Sound, Gb LAN, S-ATA Raid, USB 2.0 Dual PCI-E MB)

Memory ( 2048MB [1024MB X2] DDR2-800 PC6400 Memory Module Corsair XMS2 Xtreme w/Heat Spreader )

Video Card ( Nvidia Geforce 7900GTX 512MB w/DVI + TV Out Video )

Hard Drive ( Gaming HARD DRIVES [Serial ATA-150, 10,000 RPM] WD Raptor WD1500ADFD 150GB 16M Cache Hard Drive )

CD-RW/DVD-RW Drive ( [** Special !!! ***] 16X Dual Format/Double Layer DVD±R/±RW + CD-R/RW Drive Black)

Sound Card ( Creative Lab Sound Blaster X-Fi Platinum )

Network Card ( Onboard LAN Network (Gb or 10/100) )

Floppy Drive ( Mitsumi 1.44 MB Internal Floppy Drive Black )

Monitor ( LCD Monitor ViewSonic 17" VP720B TFT LCD Monitor [Extreme Gaming; 4 ms; Color: Black] )

Keyboard ( [New !!!] Logitech G15 Gaming Keyboard )

Mouse ( [New !!!] Logitech G5 Gaming Laser Mouse )

Operation System ( MS Windows XP Home Edition w/Service Pack-2 )

Headset ( Plantronics DSP-500 USB Digital Audio Headset )

Power Protection ( ** iBUYPOWER Recommended ** Opti-UPS SS1200-AVR Mighty Voltage Regulator )

=============================================================================

I was cleaning out my fans today and I try very hard to becareful with my computer when cleaning it and dealing with the parts inside. I have never dealt with liquid cooling but I have it in my computer. As I was cleaning my fans I noticed that the rear exhaust liquid cooling heatsink was really dusty, where the rear exhaust fan rests on to blow the hot air out of the case. It was really filthy so I decided to unscrew the back and take it off but my problem was that it was connected to the cpu (the liquid tubes). I try to unscrew the block off the cpu chip and I did, but what I was afraid that would happen, happened. All of a sudden blue water starts pouring out all over my motherboard and pricey components, so I screw the block back on so not all of the water comes out (even though I think most of it went pouring out). I flipped my pc up and drained all the water out, as much as I can and is now sitting without the cover to let it dry. What can I do? I don't have any idea on how to put water back in and how I would make the liquid cooling system work properly without having heating problems. I don't even want to turn it back on after it drys... I'm clueless.... Any ideas? suggestions? Please help.

Heres a pic of my water cooling kit.

 

[rockbyter]

Been there. Step 1. Don't panic. Disassemble.

Get some rubbing alcohol, lots and lots of paper towels. take the processor out especially and get that good and dry. if you had coolant (as in colored additives) it will be sticky and easy to notice and clean those specific areas with the rubbing alcohol. The alcohol will evaporate relatively quickly, just make sure everything is dry before reassembly.

if just purified water then all you have to do is allow the water to evaporate. put any components that are damp under a desk lamp with 60 watt or less bulb. don't get them hot, just get them dry.

Use q-tips, and corners of a paper towel to get into the card slots if necessary, I would turn the board on its face and let it sit for a while.

Step 2. Reassemble, and get it working again

take the whole system out and inspect it. learn how it works. There is a fill port somewhere, that will be the important part. purified water is all you need to really put in there, but non-conductive additives are available for just a few bucks. you will actually run the cooling system outside of the computer overnight before putting it in your computer. this will bleed off any air.

You will have more questions.

 

[bobwya]

I would get a decent Thermaright/ Scythe CPU aircooler this will easily beat a cheap sealed liquid cooling unit.


By your own admission (and rather excessively detailed parts list and frequent references to "ibuyer") you are a total noobie computer user. Hopefully you have learnt now that el cheapo sealed liquid cooling units are total crap. If you haven't figured it out already: you have taken apart a sealed "maintenance-free" unit... There is no going back!!

Is that an off-the-shelf system from a shop or built by a friend?? If so get some help to sit the new heatsink properly or you'll be starting a new thread "Help my CPU is running at 100C do I need to use thermal paste??"

Bob

PS if this is a bait thread - you got me!! :lol:

 

[rockbyter]

btw the E6700 can be contained quite easily with a low cost air cooler.

 

[yomamafor1]

Word of advice: Don't go water cooling if you're not familiar with it. Just like the previous two posters recommended, stick with air cooling might be better in the long run.

 

[Grimmy]

If I had water cooling, the nightmare I'd have, would be actually having a leak while the system is on, OR the water pump fails. [:mousemonkey:4]. o O (gawd I'd hate to go through that)

 

[bobwya]

If I had water cooling, the nightmare I'd have, would be actually having a leak while the system is on, OR the water pump fails. [:mousemonkey:4]. o O (gawd I'd hate to go through that)

+1

That is the real reason for avoiding this cheapo crap!!

Watercooling is good (I use it myself) but you really want to buy decent (carefully selected) parts and do a lot of research first!!

Bob

 

[Kraynor]

El cheapo strikes again!

Like the others have said, go with air cooling, and use thermal paste.

If you really must go with water cooling, look for something with an external resevoir, pump, and radiator. That way you'll minimise the chances for leakage inside the case, and the worst that'll happen is you'll have a puddle on the floor.

 

[JonathanDeane]

+1

That is the real reason for avoiding this cheapo crap!!

Watercooling is good (I use it myself) but you really want to buy decent (carefully selected) parts and do a lot of research first!!

Bob

Was thinking about using an old aluminum car radiator for a liquid cooled PC

heheheheh

 

[lambofgode3x]

autozone has a transmission cooler that is roughly 120mm by 240mm with 3/8 inch barbs for 27 dollars.

back to the topic at hand, you shouldnt go with water until you know what you're doing, just like everyone said. the cooler master sealed all in one kit that uses the 120mm rad and fan is pretty good, but the 80mm version that you have sucks. see if you can return it and get a good air cooler like the xigmatec rifle

 

[rubix_1011]

Was thinking about using an old aluminum car radiator for a liquid cooled PC

heheheheh

Bad idea. Copper water blocks and aluminum radiators will cause corrosion.

Cheapo watercooling should be avoided if all possible. Good watercooling is great, but its costly. If you want to go the cheap route, just go with an aftermarktet air cooler.

I've watercooled for 5+ years and never had the problems you encountered. Hopefully this educates you somewhat about the workings of PC building and how to improve for next time. Don't get me wrong, we were all noobs at one point or another, but trust me, good water components can get pricey, but you do learn a lot about what you want to accomplish.

Just make sure your gear is copper...

 

[rodney_ws]

I initially had a leak when I setup my first (and only) watercooled PC. My leak was traced back to a defective o-ring (I guess that's what you call it). Mercifully, the coolant dripped straight down into the base of my case. It was still a VERY bad sight to see a puddle of liquid at the bottom of the nicest computer you've ever owned. So it does happen. I did it mainly to say I'd done it... now that I've met that need, I'll stick to mid-range air cooling.

 

[virtual-slay3r]

I just called technical support from ibuypower and they don't want to pick up.... I am probably going to end up buying an air cooling system and dry out the parts for about a week before I turn it back on. I already knew they had put a cheap water cooling system in my pc but that doesn't matter, I learned my lesson to not opening the water block, I really wasn't expecting the water to just pour out like that and I also thought that the whole block was going to come off with the water inside but I guess I was wrong. How would I get it out though... The main screws at the bottom are being blocked by the nuts that hold down the block (where the water came puring out).

 

[bobwya]

I just called technical support from ibuypower and they don't want to pick up.... I am probably going to end up buying an air cooling system and dry out the parts for about a week before I turn it back on. I already knew they had put a cheap water cooling system in my pc but that doesn't matter, I learned my lesson to not opening the water block, I really wasn't expecting the water to just pour out like that and I also thought that the whole block was going to come off with the water inside but I guess I was wrong. How would I get it out though... The main screws at the bottom are being blocked by the nuts that hold down the block (where the water came puring out).

Hi virtual-slay3r

If you want to swap out the cooler your best bet is to take the whole lot out and work from the back of the MB. I guess the cooler has a backing plate - right guys??

Remember the magic words: Anti-static wrist strap, good earthing, etc.!!

Can anyone give you a hand installer a new heatsink?? Lots of things to go wrong there though it looks easy!!

Bob

 

[rockbyter]

look at the back of the motherboard. take pictures of it and post it if you are unsure.

http://www.hardcoreware.net/reviews/review-279-2.htm

look at the pictures here, and you will see where the 4 screws are that are safe to remove without unleashing the liquid that is left.

 

[virtual-slay3r]

thanks rockbyter, I just took out the water cooling system and I am now drying out the areas. It looks as if the cpu is wet from that blue water and I wanted to know how I would clean out the cpu and other parts completely because I can still see the blue water in certain areas around the cpu, memory, all the pci slots, and the back port connections. I bought a dust remover spray, q-tips, and alcohol. I wanted to know how I would clean out the cpu (already have thermal paste). Do I clean EVERYTHING with alcohol or is the cpu sensitive to alcohol?

 

[bobwya]

thanks rockbyter, I just took out the water cooling system and I am now drying out the areas. It looks as if the cpu is wet from that blue water and I wanted to know how I would clean out the cpu and other parts completely because I can still see the blue water in certain areas around the cpu, memory, all the pci slots, and the back port connections. I bought a dust remover spray, q-tips, and alcohol. I wanted to know how I would clean out the cpu (already have thermal paste). Do I clean EVERYTHING with alcohol or is the cpu sensitive to alcohol?

Good stuff. It will be fine if it is >99% isopropanol alcohol (you could clean the TIM with the alcohol - the "non-pins" should be fine - antistatic precautions of course!!) just be careful with the MB with all the tiny SMT components on it!! Ah what fun...

Bob

 

[Grimmy]

Using rubbing alcohol (90% would prolly be best) should be fine. 90% would evaporate faster and leave less residue. If the blue coolant left blue stains, that would be what I'd be concerned with.

Other then that, letting it dry out completely should be the best thing. Using a hair dryer heating everything up could also help the drying faster.

When I clean my HSF out with hot water, I basically use a hair dryer to make it has hot as possible. Inspect it after it cools, then re-install it (approx 20-30mins) to test it on the same day.

 

[virtual-slay3r]

Using rubbing alcohol (90% would prolly be best) should be fine. 90% would evaporate faster and leave less residue. If the blue coolant left blue stains, that would be what I'd be concerned with.

Other then that, letting it dry out completely should be the best thing. Using a hair dryer heating everything up could also help the drying faster.

When I clean my HSF out with hot water, I basically use a hair dryer to make it has hot as possible. Inspect it after it cools, then re-install it (approx 20-30mins) to test it on the same day.

I am using %50 alcohol I bought at the 99. I do see some blue stains on the mobo but mainly in the case... What about the cpu? I see that it got wet also.... I am planning on letting it sit and dry for about a week until I decide to put it back together and power it up. I am also planning on buying a copperhead fan/heatsink cooler instead of the water cooling kit. I don't have the money to buy one at the moment but until then, I'm going to be drying it out with the q-tips (every detail).

 

[Grimmy]

CPU should be fine to use rubbing alcohol. I wouldn't submerge it, just use lint free cloth to wipe off residue from the coolant. The main spot for attention would be the bottom where the contacts are.

 

[virtual-slay3r]

CPU should be fine to use rubbing alcohol. I wouldn't submerge it, just use lint free cloth to wipe off residue from the coolant. The main spot for attention would be the bottom where the contacts are.

The bottom where the contacts are is where it is mainly soaked. I can still see liquid from the water cooling system around every connections (in the edges where the outlining is).

 

[Grimmy]

Is the CPU still in the socket?

If it is, take it out. Also take the MB out of the PC case.

With the CPU out, dry it off, and clean it.

Turn the MB upside down to let the coolant run out of the socket. Its really hard to say if any of the residue it leaves behind will cause problem later on, even after it has dried. That would be the main concerned I have, is the pin array on the socket.

 

[virtual-slay3r]

yea I took the cpu out and cleaned it. I hardly see any of the blue on the mobo but I do see it in the cracks (that is where I am mainly cleaning it out with alcohol and drying it. I do notice the blue on the q-tip which lets me know if I am cleaning it out. Right now I have the mobo, sound card, memory, cpu, and the water cooling system out of the case and letting it sit on anti-static paper.

 

[rockbyter]

just take your time. took me a good few hours solid of cleaning, and a day to rest when my pump blew a seal.

drip rubbing alcohol in the spots you cant reach, then blow out with compressed air, and repeat to get the last of it out.

 

[virtual-slay3r]

just take your time. took me a good few hours solid of cleaning, and a day to rest when my pump blew a seal.

drip rubbing alcohol in the spots you cant reach, then blow out with compressed air, and repeat to get the last of it out.

I have my ceiling fan blowing on everything. I have all the components on anti-static paper layed out to dry for about a week. I still have to see whats up with the inside of my case because it looks as if it got to my hidden connections in the back panel.... *sigh* I am going to end up buying an air/heatsink fan for my cpu, water cooling is a little to much for me at the moment. Thanks for all the help guys, I will be coming back if I need more help. Appreciate it!