liquid nitrogen and water cooling

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rubix_1011

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Cascade water tower or something similiar might work. I think the biggest questions here for the OP are:

1) total cost
2) DIY factor
3) desired result without disappointment
4) portability and maintenance
5) moving to new/updated hardware

Everyone worries about the tubes, very understandable. What about the pump. Will it even work at those temps? Can you say antifreeze?

Even if you don't have tubing or pump failure, you still have massive frost and condensation to worry about in and around almost every piece of the loop and inside the case.
 

V3NOM

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i had a feeling someoen was going to say that. scroll up

"Why not deuterium? Or heavy water? It has superior heat displacement propertied than regular water and you can make it yourself, it will take a long long long long time, but it can be done. Wiki explains how you can do this on your own, but the easiest method really is the peltier, you can also make this yourself, peltier are the simplest methods for cooling out there.

Okay, I want the five bucks. Add some CFC or commonly known as freon, to your water, it boils at room temp and will act as a cooling agent, you will have to seal your setup from air so it doesnt evaporate out. Al Gore will cry if you do this, but his tears cure cancer, so it all balances out in the end.

I've already given you my email via PM, I'm so buying slurpee's with that finsky! "

im too lazy to do a full reply and quote l0ol
 

rubix_1011

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Oh yeah...I did read that...just several days apart. You have a good point; you might be able to do a good job cooling your CPU with that, you just might not be alive to find out after you get it going.
 
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Deuterium is not radioactive; it is perfectly stable. The next isotope of hydrogen, tritium, is radioactive, with a half life of less than a year. It is used in some permanently glowing items - paint for watch dial markings, that sort of thing - to provide the power source for the lighting; but the short half life means it will fade massively over just a few years.

CFCs are all completely immiscible with water, as are PCFCs and all related compounds; you cannot mix them with water. And as someone has explained already, attempts to combine evaporative and conductive cooling are non-starters, for several reasons. If the water circuit is sealed, adding CFCs will only reduce it's heat capacity, and make it less efficient. If it isn't sealed, the CFCs will simply evaporate off, or remain unmixed with the water (they certainly don't all evaporate at room temperature.)
 

maxi -OCF-

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H2O freezes @ 32° F > will not work with anything taking it below freezing without some addative or using a different fluid altogether.

Pelts suck alot of juice and cannot maintain consistent temperatures required for high clocks.

Phase is good for average sub-zero stuff

Dry Ice is the entry-level choice of benchers learning the extreme side of overclocking

LN2 is the best for maximum performance, cold enough to max the setup and fairly easy to work with. All the other things mentioned in here are useless.
 

maxi -OCF-

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And just to add...

Your best bet would be to throw some regular ice into a bucket with an open-loop. Dis-connect the rad before you go for it (or you can toss the rad into a bucket of ice water). Only thing you need to be carefull of is condensation which can destroy the board, graphics card and lots of other stuff in your PC if you're not carefull. If you put in just enough ice to keep the water cool but not below ambient...say around 50° F or so, you'll be running faster than you ever have on a regular rad cooled loop.
 

rubix_1011

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Your best bet would be to throw some regular ice into a bucket with an open-loop. Dis-connect the rad before you go for it (or you can toss the rad into a bucket of ice water).

I have always wanted to try both of these ideas, but never really got to the point of doing so. That's why I suggested the drum (or even a 5 gal bucket) of ice water. I would bet that using it as a reservior would give you better temps as long as you kept adding ice. Might be a good idea to submerge that tubing or tap some barbs into the bottom. You wouldn't want to sucking up any ice in that loop.
 

tlh42692

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try using an old dehumidifier, use the pump and condensing elements, you have to you either antifreeze, alcohol or water with glycerin but it will bring the water down to subfreezing temps
 
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i have a question how about desinging a small aircon

i have worked with earth moving equipmen and i have tested and atd's aircon and it goes -58 witch freezes the coper piping
outside the truck

so wat if u could make a small aircon for you pc????
 

richardscott

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its his first post give the poor guy a break :D theres a thread from early 2008 about 45nm degradation i wan to bring it back up and say hahaha i was right my cpu hasn't failed yet but tbh im not a fan of dead threads coming back up either
 

crusty1292

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I know its a bit of work(nothing compared to other suggestions), but if you get a car radiator, and make new adapters for the intake and return, then use a decent water block that will allow the water to pass through the block without much resistance at 1500L/M. Also you want at least 1/2" tubes, and a mighty pump(at least 1500L/M).

Seriously, with the enormous amount of water in the loop, it will raise 1 degree before it starts to be cooled by the radiator.

Why do you need a ridiculous setup to cool you cpu for overclock, when all you need is an i7 975, the cooling required for a good overclock, and 2 GTX 295's. You wont get up to 5GHz, but it will be the fastest computer you can buy.

Overclocking used to be a way of getting more bang for ya buck, now its "MY OVERCLOCK IS HIGHER THAN YOURS!".
 
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